Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => General Tool Discussion => Topic started by: Aloha on March 14, 2016, 03:33:32 AM
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I love my Lansky sharpening system. I've turned somewhat sharp knifes into extremely sharp knives. I've re beveled some edges that were badly done and pretty rough with varying grind angles throughout the edge. I also have a Spyderco system that is nice but for me as of this moment I like my Lansky as it does all that I need.
If I ever get the spare cash and get more knives I'd seriously consider the Edge Pro. I'd also probably get some whet stones just because why the heck not. This is probably for another post so back to my Lansky.......
I recently sharpened my Kershaw Dimension using the 20 degree setting on the system. I don't have a way to measure the "actual" angle but it felt it wasn't quite 20 degrees. I looked at the bevel thrru my older SAK mag glass and while the angle was consistent along the whole knife it appeared lower.
I keep most my folders at about 22-25 degrees per side. I then decided to experiment with my Swisschamp. I decided to try the 17 degree setting and quickly noticed a "new" edge being cut. I read SAKs are 15-20 so this is why I chose the 17 degree angle. When I finished it was clear the edge was a new one. I really liked it actually and my SAK has never been sharper. I also was able to restore the tip on the well used knife.
This brings me to what I discovered.
I will play around some more but now I can totally understand why in the past I was confused. I noticed than on some knives a new edge was being formed and hadn't realized the angles were effected by so much.
Hope this helps you determine the best setting on your Lansky System.
https://youtu.be/ZH0ZOjcOZss
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Good post Aloha!!! :cheers:
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Thanks for this post Aloha.
My use of the Lansky follows the same understanding but I do not worry so much about the edge angle as much.
I use the Lansky for serious edge profiling and not maintenance and touch ups.
All I do is make sure the angle is less than 20 each side, this is so I can put a micro bevel on with the Spyderco Sharpmaker afterwards.
Anything from 15 to 20 works. I even measure this using the Spyderco, comparing it to the 30 and 40 degree angles. As long as its between the two angles on the Sharpmaker its fine.
I do make sure I get it onto the same place on the blade an document this somewhere! Else the next time to put on a primary edge you take off too much metal. As I only do this in extreme cases this is not even a factor for me most of the time.
I use the Extra Coarse diamond for edge re-profiling followed by standard medium (400) and then ceramic ultra fine (1000) to polish.
20-40 stroke on the Sharpmaker afterwards and my knives pop hairs.
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I dont use the Lansky for general maintenance so all I need is it to be less than this.
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a200/shark_za/Knives/650FE157-6B3A-486D-84AF-780FA4CEE98C_zpsedabsx8b.jpg) (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/shark_za/media/Knives/650FE157-6B3A-486D-84AF-780FA4CEE98C_zpsedabsx8b.jpg.html)
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I also use my Spyderco sharp tho maker mostly the ceramic rods. I use the Lansky as you do, to even out grinds or make a new edge depending on what I use the knife for. I know I was over thinking the edge on my Dimension but what a neat discovery.
As far as touching up I mentioned in another thread that I like to strop. If I've neglected a blade like on my MT then several strokes on the Spyderco and i'm back in business.
I don't typically "test" for sharpness by cutting paper since all my knives do that really well. I will use receipt paper ( don't have phone book paper ) and more often pull thread over the edge. My poor arm is in a perpetual shaved state :facepalm:.
I "blame" my years cooking on why I tend to keep my knives this sharp.
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Thanks for posting this
I found this video a while back and tried to be more precise in my sharpening angle
Finally I went back to just using the 20 or 25 settings, depending on the blade
I like the Lansky, and at least I know the angle will be consistent and close to the angle of the setting
Most everything I sharpen turns out shaving sharp, especially with the final honing stones
Maintenance on Spyderco ceramic rods or Lansky Turnbox keeps them sharp
In other words, the measuring and calculation input stated to make me feel a little too compulsive
I do not any knives that have their own edge angle requirements, thank goodness
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I agree with all you said. It was a neat discovery and while I try to not get OCD about the degrees it did help. I also like my Lansky system. I want to get the sapphire and strop as well. I've done some nice work with my system.
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Other things about the Lansky.
Forget the actual angle but make sure what you actually do is precise.
Hold the rod down lightly against the bottom of the slot you are using with your other hand.
Getting one of the stands helps.
Make sure the clamp does not rock at all, this is tricky with flat ground blades.
Use the oil to clean the stones, don't run it "wet"
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Great post and video, thanks!
Inviato dal mio LG-H500 utilizzando Tapatalk
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For a total newby what easy sharpening system do you recommend?
Lansky, Spyderco...?
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I like the Lansky sharpening system. I have literally sharpened hundreds of blades on mine, and I had virtually every stone that was available at the time. I did have one issue with it, and that's basic geometry. It didn't matter as much with shorter blades like pocket knives, but for edges bigger than 5-6" it could be a real pain.
The pictures below show the difficulty, as good as I can explain it, but since it is a pivoting system it only works to create a smooth edge on knives of a certain size. Exceed that and you start to get an uneven edge, and it gets worse when you go with larger blades because you need to re-position the clamp multiple times.
It's good for quick touch ups and for novice users, but I often found that I had to re-profile blades somewhat for use with the Lansky so I went back to steels, rods and stones.
Def
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Great point Boss. :tu:
So heres what I see we are talking about
Factory edges is no longer easily cutting = Dull. What to do? Typically we don't need to "sharpen" at this point. What we can do IMO is a couple of things. We can HONE the edge. HONE is realigning the rolled over cutting edge. This can be done by ceramic rods and such. There are also ways to mimic ceramic rods by using coffee cup bottoms and the tops of our auto windows or even cardboard boxes. Keep in mind this method on super steels or hard wear steel probably wont work and will probably require diamonds rods. On our SAK blades tho almost anything works to get that edge realigned.
Chips, very dull edges, wonky bevel grinds etc are some situations where SHARPENING comes into play. This is where material is being removed to revel a fresh new bevel. This is where on the opposite side of the blade you will feel a burr.
Sharpening our SAKs is not really needed unless we damage the edge or really neglect it.
Please keep in mind this is a very rough explanation.
My suggestion for the money is still the Lansky Turn box with 4 rods. I'd also suggest fooling around with some old leather and stropping. If you need to actually sharpen I can suggest the Lansky Sharpening system with clamp and such. I like it and while it has some inherent issues for the money I'm happy to own 2.
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I had bought the basic set and ended up purchasing almost all of the other individual stones for it separately. I had the diamond stones, the standard stones, the serrated stones and the ultra fine stones that would polish the edge to a mirror finish, which looked gorgeous but left the edge to slick to actually cut anything.
I am a big fan of the system, and for the average person I think it is brilliant. I just think that folks that are really into edge geometry may want to try something else instead.
For example, when my father called me asking me about sharpeners and looking at one of those God awful electronic doodads I told him not to, and to get the Sharpmaker instead. Well, he did, and he loves the Sharpmaker so much that I think even every spoon in his house has a razored edge now!
The Lansky was actually the first thing I was going to suggest for him, but in the end I decided not to as it would end up being too much effort to set up and tear down and he'd probably end up buying one of those terrible electric doodads anyway.
Def
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he loves the Sharpmaker so much that I think even every spoon in his house has a razored edge now!
:rofl:
Great post Aloha :tu: I am back an forth with the Lansky, Sharpmaker and my diamond bench stones and other diamond sharpeners :tu:
The Lansky does a great job at reprofiling blades and leaves a beautiful edge :drool:
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I use their turnbox, the sharpening is too expensive for me :cry:
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For a total newby what easy sharpening system do you recommend?
Lansky, Spyderco...?
I understand the Sharpmaker is better in every way than the Lansky... then again it is about 4 times the price as well and probably not 4 times as good...
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I think whats "best" is what works for you. This is gonna be different for each knife user and more importantly depends on what you are trying to do.
I would like to try the sharpmaker, Edgpro, wicked edge, and of course chosera stones. I've used lessor quality whet stones in the past and produced terrific edges.
In all reality very few of us "need" edges that rival the legendary samurai edge. This excludes professionals, hunters, those earn their money with their knives, etc. Most will do fine with out the box sharp knives ( more or less ). All my opinion of course YMMV.
Polished edges sure look great. There are different schools of thought and as many "tests" against doing it. I'll say this on the topic, I have serrated blades for when I want "toothy" and my polished PE blades for everything else :salute:. Most our MTs come with one of each tho many dislike serrated edges :think:. All time favorite knives of mine, Delica and Native fully serrated.
I'm certainly no expert nor do I claim or am I claiming to be. I have produced some terrific edges with my Lansky and re-beveled/profiled many that were really wonky. Keep in mind I don't buy new! All mine come to me previously used and in many cases what one thinks is "hair popping" isn't. This includes nearly all my MTs and SAKs with very few exceptions. My knives may not represent what y'all get so keep that in mind.
Stropping is a must for me, when my edge needs a touch up thats what I do. I rarely "re-sharpen" my knives after my initial edge "correction" and setting. I'll strop and if that isn't working ( rolled edge, chip, etc ) then I'll hit it with the ceramic rod then strop.
My 2c on the topic. I am very much still learning and very much loving this whole process.
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Off topic ::) I love the contrast of BO tools and their blades edge :drool: :b2t:
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Stropping is a step I often overlook and forget :facepalm: I usually just hit it a few strokes on a very fine diamond stone and it is back to shaving sharp :tu:
What kind of compound does everybody recommend for loading up a leather strop BTW :think:
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I think the BO and not coated edge make a wonderful contrast as well.
I use the cheap stuff from Big box store ( green ). My strop is an old leather belt with flat nap. I know guys are using diamond drops and other exotic stuff but I've not gone there yet ( maybe never ).
Keeping my theme of buying and using used gear my set up ( Lansky & Spyderco ) are previously used with, my Turn Box I bought new.
I have black and white compound as well but mostly use the green.
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Aloha007
Nice edges
With a little practise and patience the Lansky system does a very good job
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Aloha007
Nice edges
Thanks I appreciate it :salute:. Just wanted to even out the LM grinds and add a little pizzaz.
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I still free hand sharpen every so often to retain the skill ( so I stay sharp, if you excuse the pun)
Even with many years experience, I can't duplicate the Lansky edge as well
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[ALEPH78 USES THREAD NECRO] [IT'S SUPER EFFECTIVE!]
So, what would you guys recommend for a beginner? I've never been really good at sharpening so I'd require something easy.
I read about and saw some videos of the Lansky Sharpening system, and it looks promising and affordable. Or could I just
do with the Lansky Turn Box? I know I need a bench stone of some kind for my puukko, but for the SAKs and MTs?
Some advice would be grreatly appreciated.
:cheers:
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I find the Lansky system is good for initial sharpening where you want to control the grind angle or need to re-shape an dull edge, but I find it annoying on longer blades (e.g. kitchen knives) and fiddly on narrow ones (like a SAK pen blade). The rubber pads that clamp the blade don't work that well on a small blade. But it works, and does a good job. The turnbox is great for touch ups, once you've set the edge angle. So, in true MT.o fashion, get both. :pok: :)
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I find the Lansky system is good for initial sharpening where you want to control the grind angle or need to re-shape an dull edge, but I find it annoying on longer blades (e.g. kitchen knives) and fiddly on narrow ones (like a SAK pen blade). The rubber pads that clamp the blade don't work that well on a small blade. But it works, and does a good job. The turnbox is great for touch ups, once you've set the edge angle. So, in true MT.o fashion, get both. :pok: :)
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of :P
:D
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OK, next question, what would be a good price for the Lansky system and the Turn Box? Don't like to be ripped off...
I think I saw the System going for 30 USD on the evilBay and Turn Box for 15 USD ???
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OK, next question, what would be a good price for the Lansky system and the Turn Box? Don't like to be ripped off...
I think I saw the System going for 30 USD on the evilBay and Turn Box for 15 USD ???
Sounds about right for the Lansky system :cheers: No idea about a price on the Turn Box though :shrug: Seems to be a good price but I don't have one nor ever looked at prices of them ;)
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Yep, sounds right. Check which Lansky system you go for - there are various ones with different combinations of stone. Mine is the 3-stone coarse/medium/fine - the 5-stone one might have been a better bet.
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I think I should be fine with the 3 stone system for now, after all I can buy the additional stones later, right?
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I think I should be fine with the 3 stone system for now, after all I can buy the additional stones later, right?
Yes you will be fine with the 3 stone version and yes you can buy whatever additional stones you may require.
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New page banana man dance
:nanadance: :nanadance:
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I added the fine sapphire after I got the standard 3 stone set and the sky is the limit on what all is available stone wise with Lansky :tu:
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Finally ordered the 3 stone Lansky system today, will get some pics in as soon as it arrives :cheers:
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Finally ordered the 3 stone Lansky system today, will get some pics in as soon as it arrives :cheers:
[/quote
:tu:
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I have a Lansky system with 4 diamond hones, and it just sits on a shelf not being used. I do not regret buying it though.
These days, I prefer to sharpen freehand, but I found the Lansky system to be an excellent teaching aid before I moved to freehand. It was particularly useful when reprofiling, either to remove a chip or indent, or to correct a poor factory grind.
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I have a Lansky system with 4 diamond hones, and it just sits on a shelf not being used. I do not regret buying it though.
These days, I prefer to sharpen freehand, but I found the Lansky system to be an excellent teaching aid before I moved to freehand. It was particularly useful when reprofiling, either to remove a chip or indent, or to correct a poor factory grind.
It certainly is! :tu:
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I love my Lansky. My carbon steel blades become razors using it. :tu:
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I too have the Lansky 3 stone setup. After awhile I found a deal on the polish stone (sapphire one I think it was) so I picked it up just to have. I don't get into polished edges but if I decide to try something different I have that stone just waiting to be used! :)
The Lansky is only used for repairs or to reset a bevel etc. as mainly I just use the Sharpmaker or once in awhile the Lansky 4 rod setup to touch up the blades. The 4 rod turn box doesn't see much use though.
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I too have the Lansky 3 stone setup. After awhile I found a deal on the polish stone (sapphire one I think it was) so I picked it up just to have. I don't get into polished edges but if I decide to try something different I have that stone just waiting to be used! :)
The Lansky is only used for repairs or to reset a bevel etc. as mainly I just use the Sharpmaker or once in awhile the Lansky 4 rod setup to touch up the blades. The 4 rod turn box doesn't see much use though.
I also have the 3 stone and sapphire polish stone setup :cheers: :cheers: :tu: It doesn't get used much as I favor freehand sharpening as well but it does help repair edges very well :like:
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Finally ordered the 3 stone Lansky system today, will get some pics in as soon as it arrives :cheers:
Can't wait to see the pics buddy :cheers: :cheers: :like: Also to hear your thoughts on it after a bit of use :tu:
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I had to break out my Lansky yesterday. I have a Kershaw Black Horse 1060 Japan knife thats pretty much been a beater. The edge was pretty wrecked but its not a knife I use often or even cared about. I was fixing the edge on my Mora #2 and decided to finally take care of the Kershaw. BTW I didn't use the Lansky on the Mora.
I'll post up pics in a bit. I went thru the red ( 120 ) then green ( 280 ) then blue ( 600 ) then 3 micron diamond spray strop then green compound strop, and BOOM she's got such a wicked edge now. I used the 25 degree guide for this knife and didn't strop to a mirror just enough to smooth out the bevel and remove any trace of a burr.
Guys I can continue to recommend this tool for those who need to do work on your bevels.
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Forgive the pics. I'll still need to work out the tip but the new bevel is certainly more even along the length of the blade. The angle is also even on both sides as well. I got this knife very used but its solid. Anyone know the steel on this? From what I gather its supposed to be 8cr13mov?
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Beats me about the steel, but you did a good job on that edge.
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Beats me about the steel, but you did a good job on that edge.
The Lansky really does a good job at keeping the angle even on both sides. Along the length of the blade the previous owner/s tried to sharpen it and just went to steep. Grinding it to 25 degree per side gives it enough edge to be wicked and strong. I'm not gonna lie I've beat on this knife at camp sites and shes a tough one. Its fills my hand and feel great in it. Not sure what these sold for but it another flea market find for me so IIRC it was <$10 for sure. I do recall the blade being really covered with surface rust but I gave it a quick 0000 steel wool wipe and ceramic rod hone and off she went into my camp bag.
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You done a very fine job bringing the edge back Aloha :like: :like: I don't know if I have ever owned a Kershaw :think: A lot of people I know carry one but not me ??? I guess that's another brand I need to try :D
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Beats me about the steel, but you did a good job on that edge.
The Lansky really does a good job at keeping the angle even on both sides. Along the length of the blade the previous owner/s tried to sharpen it and just went to steep. Grinding it to 25 degree per side gives it enough edge to be wicked and strong. I'm not gonna lie I've beat on this knife at camp sites and shes a tough one. Its fills my hand and feel great in it. Not sure what these sold for but it another flea market find for me so IIRC it was <$10 for sure. I do recall the blade being really covered with surface rust but I gave it a quick 0000 steel wool wipe and ceramic rod hone and off she went into my camp bag.
If it's Japanese, I think it's an AUS type steel, AUS8 if I'm not mistaken. Chinese ones used the CrMoV steels, however.
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Its Japanese and thank you. I used the knife to cut chicken last night. The blades edge is wickedly sharp and being an older user before I got it the lock up is solid.
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You done a very fine job bringing the edge back Aloha :like: :like: I don't know if I have ever owned a Kershaw :think: A lot of people I know carry one but not me ??? I guess that's another brand I need to try :D
Thanks. Kershaw has some nice models. Price point is nice too. If you are looking for a work horse with style then IMO you cannot go wrong.
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ARISE!!!!! :shrug:
:rofl:
I'm in this club for about a month now........what's the oil for? :think:
I've got the kit with the 5 stones, I think the jaws were bent in transport, but hey, I can't have nice things so...... :rofl:
Feel I need to buy or build a pedestal, get the diamond stones as well as the rounded ones for recurves....
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ARISE!!!!! :shrug:
:rofl:
I'm in this club for about a month now........what's the oil for? :think:
I've got the kit with the 5 stones, I think the jaws were bent in transport, but hey, I can't have nice things so...... :rofl:
Feel I need to buy or build a pedestal, get the diamond stones as well as the rounded ones for recurves....
Oil is to clean the stones, when they get gunky with metal they get a sheen to them, and loss their effectiveness. Oil will float the shavings so they can be wiped off!
My clamp was absolute garbage!! Still finding ways to try and improve it.
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I have the 4 stone diamond system. It is great for recontouring a broken blade or for putting a new edge on a badly neglected knife but for everyday use I like the Eze lap freehand sharpeners followed by the vic pocket ceramic sharpener.
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Oil is to clean the stones, when they get gunky with metal they get a sheen to them, and loss their effectiveness. Oil will float the shavings so they can be wiped off!
My clamp was absolute garbage!! Still finding ways to try and improve it.
Do you apply the oil while using the stones, or to clean afterwards?
I need practice, still get better results with the baby belt grinder and polisher, but I nicely stuffed up a new edge with the belt grinder, using the Lansky in future.
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Oil is to clean the stones, when they get gunky with metal they get a sheen to them, and loss their effectiveness. Oil will float the shavings so they can be wiped off!
My clamp was absolute garbage!! Still finding ways to try and improve it.
Do you apply the oil while using the stones, or to clean afterwards?
I need practice, still get better results with the baby belt grinder and polisher, but I nicely stuffed up a new edge with the belt grinder, using the Lansky in future.
I usually do it during, I feel like it help lubricates the cutting.
I would strongly recommend the sharpie trick so you can keep track of the edge on every stone.
The stand they sell is pretty bad IMO, I use a small 3" bench vice or hold the actual tool in my hand if the blade hasn't been removed
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I oil the stones whilst using them. Just a few drops on each is enough.
The clamp on mine sucks too, and is too big for SAKs. I need to come up with a Edge Pro-like solution if I can.
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Thanks guys, probably saved me a few $$$ :salute:
If it wasn't made out of smurf metal you could crank down and really hold onto the blade.....
Was there an update to the kit? on some YT videos the clamp has rubber at the jaw?
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Deluxe Sharpening system is what I regularly use these days... and 25° angle... and strop afterwards...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180119/f1894ea6141d024eb593fd9646f99f63.jpg)
Tried the sharpmaker for a while but sometimes my bevels are wider at the tip. And couldn’t even get factory sharp edges...
No problems with the Lansky... Didn’t go for the optional stand as my mini bench vice is sufficient enough... I also do freehand with these stones for my 58mm blades...
Sharpmaker is now used mainly to sharpen scissors...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks guys, probably saved me a few $$$ :salute:
If it wasn't made out of smurf metal you could crank down and really hold onto the blade.....
Was there an update to the kit? on some YT videos the clamp has rubber at the jaw?
Yep, there's a newer version with the rubber. Mine is the old pot metal (sintered?) version too. I've found it functional for most knives, but you definitely can't do much with especially large or small blades. It's a great system for the price. I got the 5-stone system for $32, and it's been a fantastic value. Added a sapphire stone to the lineup, but I still need to get the strop.
And on the topic of Japanese Kershaws, I'm pretty sure they are indeed AUS8.
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I had the version with the rubber pads and ended up ripping them off.
Blue tape works best, I might try and dip the tips into liquid flex seal.
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Stropping is a step I often overlook and forget :facepalm: I usually just hit it a few strokes on a very fine diamond stone and it is back to shaving sharp :tu:
What kind of compound does everybody recommend for loading up a leather strop BTW :think:
I'm using Bark River black or green on SAKS, 1095 AUS-8 and other lower carbon steels.
I don't think you need diamond compound until you get into the high carbon vanadium steels.
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Why am I not surprised I bought the old version :facepalm:
And on the topic of Japanese Kershaws, I'm pretty sure they are indeed AUS8
:cheers: