Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => The Mod Squad => Topic started by: Max Stone on September 11, 2019, 08:19:47 PM
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So I’m enjoying the ‘naked’ builds, where I replace the outside liners with 2mm aluminum and peen on the outside. Kind of a poor-man’s Alox...but really allows a little bit of creativity. I don’t mind the raw aluminum as this will get some usage wear over time.
I may look for someone who can anodize small jobs, or get some brass sheet as an alternative. Maybe later...
But back to the latest project. I noticed that without normal Cellidor scales the corkscrew sticks out the side a lot more. So I’ve moved it over one layer and it’s now almost flush with the outer scales.
I’m using the normal scissors backspring, but trimmed a little to allow the corkscrew to fold flat. I lose the hook, but that’s not an issue for me. I use a stub corkscrew pivot to space the blade layer.
From this base (blades/scissors/corkscrew) I can create quite a few different builds. Could switch the small blade for a combo tool and keep it an ultra-thin Compact. Add a file to this for a Trail Guide, or Phillips/magnifier for a Yeoman. Maybe even a Yeoman MS (metal file). I use the opener backspring with the file so I can keep the back awl.
Currently leaning towards the Trail Guide... :think:
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Looks good Max :like: :tu:
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I agree it looks good :tu:
For years I used to keep a huntsman on my keys and it would not take long for them to shed their scales.
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Thanks Wim, chip :hatsoff:
Still to decide on final layers... :popcorn:
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So a naked Compact it is. :salute:
Fabricated brass scales (2mm) and central liner (0.7mm).
Corkscrew moved over one layer to keep the SAK minimum thickness. Lose the hook but I accept that sacrifice.
Still busy test fitting. A lot more difficult working with brass compared to Aluminium. Hope to finish it tomorrow. Thinking of leaving the key ring off to keep the lines super-clean.
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Very nice job. I like the brass.
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Brass scales have been used for ages on knives, and I think they look great! They have nice patina as they age, except on the knives I have with them, I keep polishing it off!
I have seen old bartender's knives that are pretty much a rudimentary Waiter with brass handles. And a lot of them aren't even real brass. Cheap steel (or often pot metal) plated to look like brass.
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Looks classy! :like:
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:like:
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That's very nice Max :tu: :tu:
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Thanks guys. :hatsoff: will post some pics when done.
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Very Nice Max,
I'll pay good money for one of them!!! I like the brass, adds quite a classiness to the SAK
Piet
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Very nice! You're doing some fantastic work there Max :like:
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Nice scales Max :like: :tu:
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Thanks Wim, magentus, Piet. :hatsoff:
All finished! A few comments on the build...polished inside scales but left a brushed finish on the outside. Fourth pin needed to retain the blade spring is ‘blind’, corkscrew tang cut back flush with spacer. Scissors spring cut down for corkscrew space, but angled to retain some metal. Full height liner is nice, but just catches the scissors so scissor’s pivot needed a little sanding/polishing to not catch and still close with a snap.
Combo from a waiter (hole enlarged), needed some adjustment to the pivot shape to get it to close at a higher position (84mm frame lower). Spacer needed some reshaping to keep tension on Combo. 0.4mm washer needed for main blade. Would prefer older, wider tang, but did not have any left with a good edge.
Shaped the 3 scales all sandwiched together (2.5mm bolt/nuts) on a belt sander. Decided to leave the sanding ‘marks’ and not polish or round the edges. Looks and feels better. Slight counter-sunk holes to drop the peened heads slightly. Originally was going to sand flush, but decided to leave them proud as it’s fun to see (and feel) the hand peening.
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Extra pics...
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Very nice work Max :dd: :like: :like:
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Looks great, awesome job! :like:
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Thanks Wim, comis :hatsoff:
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Really beautiful work, Max. As I said elsewhere, when you're ready to take my money please let me know. :)
I may have missed it if you posted elsewhere, but could you describe how you made your scales and liner? Are you using a milling machine?
Thanks,
Myron
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Thanks Myron, will PM you when ready.
Old school fabrication...I bought the sheets from a local supplier (2mm and 0.7mm). Cut rough rectangular blanks with a good quality hacksaw (about 30x100mm). Coffee breaks between...
Used an existing aluminum full-size liner to mark the hole positions (with clearance for the whole scale), and drilled a 2mm blank with a Dremel on a drill press. 2.2mm on back pivot and 2.5mm on end pivots (only drilled the 2nd inner pin hole on the 0.7mm liner). Easy to be off by a tiny amount (messing the spring/pivot geometry, so looking at getting a steel jig made to guide the exact hole positions).
Used thin double-sided mounting tape to sandwich the 0.7mm between the two thicker blanks, using the top as a guide to then carefully drill through and have the holes line up.
I traced out the scale outline on the top blank with a Sharpie, matching the holes.
I then used 2.5mm hex screws and nuts through the end pivot holes to secure all 3 layers together. Screw heads on the bottom. Just finger-tight to not damage the brass (could have made up some nylon washers if necessary).
Then used the magic mounting tape to mount a short 2mm brass off-cut between the pivot holes on the bottom blank. This gives a stable/flat surface to slide the stack on the sander’s table, and not scratch the bottom plate. Had to sand the screw heads down a tiny amount as they stand just proud of 2mm.
Then used a course sanding belt (100 grit) on a small 1in bench sander (vertical belt with small flat table) to grind away all 3 blanks at the same time, making them identical. 100 grit makes short work of the brass, and leaves a nice vertical grain on the cut edge, which I’ve left.
Once shape was perfect, released the screws and I had three identically shaped scales. Then marked the 2nd inner pin hole in each of the 2mm scales and drilled a blind hole (only drilled 1mm deep), just enough to capture the short pin needed to retain the blade backspring.
Using an existing liner, traced the corkscrew cut out on one scale and the liner and again used the belt sander to cut away the shape (but each done individually).
Slight counter-sunk the pivot holes so the peened heads would be a little lower (still wanted them proud). Mirror polish on 0.7mm liner and inside of scales. Brushed finish on the outside of the scales.
That’s it! :salute:
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Excellent work :like: :like: :tu:
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Your naked project is coming along great.
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Thanks Wim, Aloha :hatsoff:
A friend on mine is looking at making a steel jig for me, to guide the hole placements. I can then build some small batches. I can then also build normal SAKs with cellidor scales, but brass liners. We’ll see. :cheers:
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Love it.
That brass is making me want to tear down a MiniChamp.
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Are you going to take orders then?
Can I be No 1 please!?!
Piet
Still loving the brass, will pair nicely with a brass / bronzo watch too
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Great work, Max :like: These brass SAKs look really awesome!
Let me know once you take orders, I will surely want one :D
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Very nice work on this project, Max :o Love the look of brass and such a compact SAK that you have with so much functionality :drool: :like:
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Thank you Poncho! :hatsoff:
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Are you going to take orders then?
Can I be No 1 please!?!
Piet
Still loving the brass, will pair nicely with a brass / bronzo watch too
PM sent... :tu:
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Great work, Max :like: These brass SAKs look really awesome!
Let me know once you take orders, I will surely want one :D
PM sent...
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Custom washers made up today from 0.05mm (2 thou’ inch) shim brass. To help with tool clearance.
Folded up a thin strip into about 10 layers and drilled a 2.5mm hole through the lot. Then mounted on a 2.5mm screw in my Dremel, sandwiched tight between 2 x 10mm diameter aluminum washers I made up earlier. Then spun down the brass shim on sandpaper until they matched the aluminum washer size. Job done. :tu:
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Very cool technique, Max. I can't wait for mine!
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Custom washers made up today from 0.05mm (2 thou’ inch) shim brass. To help with tool clearance.
Folded up a thin strip into about 10 layers and drilled a 2.5mm hole through the lot. Then mounted on a 2.5mm screw in my Dremel, sandwiched tight between 2 x 10mm diameter aluminum washers I made up earlier. Then spun down the brass shim on sandpaper until they matched the aluminum washer size. Job done. :tu:
Very nice job there! Excellent work :cheers:
:popcorn:
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Thank you Rapidray and Myron! :hatsoff:
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Very cool technique, Max. I can't wait for mine!
Low Profile Naked Compact :salute:
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Very nice :dd: :like: :like:
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:hatsoff:
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Max... Excellent work on the naked brass Compact! It sounds as if you already have a ready market should you decide to start producing more of them.
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Thank you jph_777 :hatsoff:
I’ve worked though the minor issues I picked up from the prototypes, so limited production has started. Above is first ready for a customer, Naked #1. It will have an identical twin, Naked #2 :tu:
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Looks great, Max!
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Thank you Myron :hatsoff:
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Very cool job.
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Thanks 🆘 :hatsoff:
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This looks great, Max!
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Thanks comis :salute:
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Still waiting for the naked part...
:think: :whistle:
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We have to keep it family friendly pfrsantos :pok: :D
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Would this qualify? :pok:
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Looking good Max :like: :tu:
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Would this qualify? :pok:
Well, I can see the pointy bits, so I think it does...
:whistle:
:D :D :D :D
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Nice :popcorn:
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And then there were two... :woohoo:
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Very nice Max excellent work :like: :tu:
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Thank you Wim. :hatsoff:
And on the peening. The trick is to start with a domed shape on the pin, and to have a small countersink in the scale. Then just careful, repetitive taps with a good quality light jewelry peening hammer. Must be mirror smooth on the face.
I start with the flatter side to swell the head and lock it into the hole. Regular inspections under a magnifying ring light to check I’m even all around. Once I can see the head has locked (no more gap around the pin/hole interface), I switch to the ball side and focus on rounding the edges.
The trick is go far enough to the edge to get it curved, but not too far that you strike the scale. The odd small tap does wander, but these miss hits are very difficult to see.
The pic below shows the amount of exposed rod I use to peen closed, about 1.2mm. I then remove the rod and shape/sand it to a dome to peen. Rod must be a good fit in the scale, no wobble, or you’ll need to peen a bigger head.
Next pic shows the pins ready before peening one side. Last pic is peened head (done in a vice, sandwiched in hardboard), inserted into bottom scale before assembly of SAK.
This has all been trial and error. But I’m happy with the results.
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Excellent thanks for the explanation Max :like: :tu:
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BTW Wim...what’s with the bananas replacing the nuts? :dunno:
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I am no longer nuts I am now just bananas :D
I made 60K posts yesterday :tu:
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That’s now really something to celebrate Wim! :cheers:
What comes after bananas? :facepalm:
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Donkey Kong with Bananas, Nukes, the Yeti,....who knows. Speedy will find out in like two weeks :D
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:rofl: thanks Max and SVL :like: :tu:
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Donkey Kong with Bananas, Nukes, the Yeti,....who knows. Speedy will find out in like two weeks :D
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: