Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => Keychain and One Piece Tools => Topic started by: David Bowen on October 15, 2009, 04:14:52 PM
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Got my Flud Unlimited P38.5 the other day from Brian and thought I would post some pictures of it. When our single piece tool makers post pics of their tools they only do one shot, the top view and they show the whole tool. I decided to take some pics for those folks who want a different perspective of the tool. The P38.5 has an interesting chipped stone finish, at first I thought it was weird but it appears scratch resistant and it gives you a better grip on the tool rather than the typical anodized smooth finish. In the pics I really wanted to pay attention to the subtleties such as the drivers and the thickness of the bottle opener end tapering down to the can opener. Enjoy the pics, Brian has done a great job with the finer details. His phillips driver is simply perfect, works on #2 better than it works on #1's. His flat driver is thinner than I thought, it's milled out on both sides for a thin driver rather than one sided like most atwood tools.
BTW Brian, if you read this thread answer me this question. Joshua Rice at JDR says he does not recommend using his tools for a screwdriver because the titanium is not very forgiving with a twisting motion. With the P38.5 you have two drivers which are made for twisting or screwing if you will. How will the titanium hold up to the stress and will I have any problems with titanium as opposed to stainless steel?
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Hrmmm... I love the attention to detail especially with the front end, though that flat head is a bit thinner than I'd like. :think:
You're right, they never post enough pictures from the right angles. I like to see what kind of engineering thought does into these. :D
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Awesome shots!
Have you used it much yet? I'm curious how you like it as an EDC tool.
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So far I used the Phillips and the flat driver, I was shocked how thin it was! Given what Josh told me about his titanium I am hesitant to really use the drivers hard. Yesterday was my first time carrying it, I think it's kinda big for keychain duty so I put in my pocket instead. It's not bad in your pocket but all the points and edges can making it poke you if it's not orientated in my pocket well, I could minimize this by having a bandanna or something to keep it from poking me. Overall it's a really nice tool, did test out the can opener and it works pretty good. It's been a long time since I have used something like a P38 but this thing is the opposite, the P38 to the P38.5 is like comparing a lizard to godzilla :o The thing tears open cans and eats them for snack! >:D Really a great tool, look forward to testing this puppy out and writing a review for the site.
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The titanium "issue" is the main reason why I generally prefer Atwoods steel tools rather than the Ti ones as I have heard about that potential problem elsewhere. Not sure if it is justified though.
Lovely tool that. :)
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There appears to be a fairly large market for titanium screwdrivers and hex drivers. Mostly in settings where tools must be non-magnetic, non-sparking and corrosion resistant.
One site stated their Ti is Rockwell C hardness 30-45
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The titanium will get mucked up if you abuse it to much, but that doesn't mean you can use it. I wouldn't recommend using ti for a heavy torque problem, but for most tasks it is just fine. Joshua told me that he was getting tools returned because people were really hard on the titanium and he just wants people to know that steel is a better choice for heavy use. :tu:
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I swear one day I will have one of these. :D
Now the question is... is there a warrenty? :D
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So far, I haven't had any returned for deformation of the tip, but when I began to grind the main pry edge thinner, I did expect to have some returned. Before working with these different materials, I was a collector, and under the impression that titanium was really "hard". It's tougher than it is hard. I grind the main pry edges fairly thin to get up under the object, and to be able to tear into tape and boxes and such. If it's a tool with other ground faces, like the Bettas or Hammerheads, I usually leave the tips a little thicker, according to size, so that they may be used for light screwdriving.
As Mr. Whippy mentioned, titanium is relatively soft when compared to heat treated steel. Many/most screws I encounter are made from tool steel, and are much harder in nature than titanium. From what I can gather from more experienced makers than myself, that's one reason you don't see titanium blades more commonly, outside of dive/special purpose knives, because the edge will "fold" under heavy use. I have a large titanium bowie that I hacked on a 2 x 4 to test this, and the edge was fairly easily damaged by a couple chopping whacks. I should also mention that there are several/numerous different titanium alloys, each with different properties and applications; I'm generally referring to 6Al4V.
It looks like Flud made that piece, ground on both sides, to specifically accomodate a flathead screw, so I would think it probably works pretty well as long it wasn't abused. Love the canopener on those too, and could see that being very handy in a pinch. :tu:
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So far, I haven't had any returned for deformation of the tip, but when I began to grind the main pry edge thinner, I did expect to have some returned. Before working with these different materials, I was a collector, and under the impression that titanium was really "hard". It's tougher than it is hard. I grind the main pry edges fairly thin to get up under the object, and to be able to tear into tape and boxes and such. If it's a tool with other ground faces, like the Bettas or Hammerheads, I usually leave the tips a little thicker, according to size, so that they may be used for light screwdriving.
As Mr. Whippy mentioned, titanium is relatively soft when compared to heat treated steel. Many/most screws I encounter are made from tool steel, and are much harder in nature than titanium. From what I can gather from more experienced makers than myself, that's one reason you don't see titanium blades more commonly, outside of dive/special purpose knives, because the edge will "fold" under heavy use. I have a large titanium bowie that I hacked on a 2 x 4 to test this, and the edge was fairly easily damaged by a couple chopping whacks. I should also mention that there are several/numerous different titanium alloys, each with different properties and applications; I'm generally referring to 6Al4V.
It looks like Flud made that piece, ground on both sides, to specifically accomodate a flathead screw, so I would think it probably works pretty well as long it wasn't abused. Love the canopener on those too, and could see that being very handy in a pinch. :tu:
Joshua, thanks for the explanation. :tu: I thought you had a few people who wanted their ti touched up? :think: It doesn't matter anyway, I still like both materials.
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The titanium will get mucked up if you abuse it to much, but that doesn't mean you can use it. I wouldn't recommend using ti for a heavy torque problem, but for most tasks it is just fine. Joshua told me that he was getting tools returned because people were really hard on the titanium and he just wants people to know that steel is a better choice for heavy use. :tu:
what he said, It will hold up good but you have a lot more torque due to the shape so I wouldent go cranking real hard on it.
the phillips is a little more forgiving.
the flat is more for the pistol grip size screws.
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The phillips is the one I worry more about due to it being crafted more intricate, if you say use it I am going to use it. I would make it more of a #1/#2 hybrid and not so much a #2, there is alot I come up against in preliminary testing it would not fit :D
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I test them on the screws that hold my shop together, Ill have to get some differant sizes of screws to test on.