Multitool.org Forum
Outdoor Section => The Axe Hole => Topic started by: anditsgone on February 01, 2016, 03:22:36 PM
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Bought this old axe head from the flea market for 70 cent. Bought a new handle for 13 euros :P and it is good to go for a couple of decades. I also resharpened it to a medium to dull sharpness, i will try to make this better but could nog get good results on my lansky turnbox :facepalm:.
I made the stop that keeps the axe head in place from an old 5 mm thick metal strip that i hammerd in to the wood.
I love recycling :D
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Use a file to give the axe head a good edge. I've also seen sandpaper used as well.
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Nice!
Id also hammer inn a wedge in the gaps between the head and the handle to make sure the head does not come loose.
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Use a file to give the axe head a good edge. I've also seen sandpaper used as well.
Isn't the steel used for the axe head too hard to be sharpened by a file? Will try sandpaper on a flat piece of wood. I have made the primary bevel by carefully sharpen it on a grinding wheel.
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Bought this old axe head from the flea market for 70 cent. Bought a new handle for 13 euros :P and it is good to go for a couple of decades. I also resharpened it to a medium to dull sharpness, i will try to make this better but could nog get good results on my lansky turnbox :facepalm:.
I made the stop that keeps the axe head in place from an old 5 mm thick metal strip that i hammerd in to the wood.
I love recycling :D
nice ! :tu:
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https://youtu.be/JIZBwT-VDBY
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I think a file would work fine, search "Wranglerstar" on youtube, more info and videos on axes and hatchets than anyone will ever need!
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Nice looking axe. But you really need to wedge that head(all loose spaces). That way it wil stay put properly.
And good file will work well on sharpening your axe.
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Aig,
That is one very old axe you have there, looks hand made to me
Do you own a belt sander? If you do take it gently/lightly (just stroke it) and wet the steel down frequently
And if you have a spare hour...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22tBYD-HMtA
Just to be completely honest that handle isn’t big enough for that head, it should fill the hole,
And I normally use a wood wedge where you have the metal wedge, then if you need put the metal wedge across the wooden wedge
I hope this is helpful :salute:
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Thanks for all the info guys :tu:
This was the largest handle the shop had in stock. It is a meter long and has a square head. Is it possible that i slam pieces of wood in the two open spaces to ensure that the head won't fly away?
It does look hand forged, that's also the reason why i picked it up.
I will try to sharpen it later this week and will keep you guys updated on it.
I also bought this axe with it, it costed me 2,50 euros. The head is in great shape but the handle has seen better times. It is dried out and the end is splitting in multiple pieces, i will try to maybe glue this together so these wont break of when used.
It also might be handy to oil or threat the wood so that the doesn't get so dried out.
This one also needs to be resharpend.
It looks to be very old too but it is hard to estimate how old it is.
I love flea markets :D
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Thanks for all the info guys :tu:
This was the largest handle the shop had in stock. It is a meter long and has a square head. Is it possible that i slam pieces of wood in the two open spaces to ensure that the head won't fly away?
It does look hand forged, that's also the reason why i picked it up.
I will try to sharpen it later this week and will keep you guys updated on it.
I also bought this axe with it, it costed me 2,50 euros. The head is in great shape but the handle has seen better times. It is dried out and the end is splitting in multiple pieces, i will try to maybe glue this together so these wont break of when used.
It also might be handy to oil or threat the wood so that the doesn't get so dried out.
This one also needs to be resharpend.
It looks to be very old too but it is hard to estimate how old it is.
I love flea markets :D
I hope you didn’t think I was being rude :hatsoff:
It can’t do any harm to wedge in some extra wood :tu:
It’s hard to find good axe handles here in the UK especially as I like to inspect them before buying them
I oil my handles with 50/50 linseed oil/white spirit mix, you can also use it protect the head (but it takes a while to dry)
Without any stamps its very hard to date :think:
Looking forward to more pics :cheers:
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Thanks for all the info guys :tu:
This was the largest handle the shop had in stock. It is a meter long and has a square head. Is it possible that i slam pieces of wood in the two open spaces to ensure that the head won't fly away?
It does look hand forged, that's also the reason why i picked it up.
I will try to sharpen it later this week and will keep you guys updated on it.
I also bought this axe with it, it costed me 2,50 euros. The head is in great shape but the handle has seen better times. It is dried out and the end is splitting in multiple pieces, i will try to maybe glue this together so these wont break of when used.
It also might be handy to oil or threat the wood so that the doesn't get so dried out.
This one also needs to be resharpend.
It looks to be very old too but it is hard to estimate how old it is.
I love flea markets :D
I hope you didn’t think I was being rude :hatsoff:
It can’t do any harm to wedge in some extra wood :tu:
It’s hard to find good axe handles here in the UK especially as I like to inspect them before buying them
I oil my handles with 50/50 linseed oil/white spirit mix, you can also use it protect the head (but it takes a while to dry)
Without any stamps its very hard to date :think:
Looking forward to more pics :cheers:
No sir, you where very polite to me :hatsoff: :D
I will see if i can make nice wedge that i can hammer in the open spaces. This eliminates the chance that axe head will tilt backwards.
I will look around if we have linseed oil in the house.
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I also use linseed oil tho I've been considering getting some tung oil to see how it performs. I believe you can also use walnut oil or danish oil which is a mix of tung and spirits.
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i re sharpened my axe by using my Swisstool file.
I will see how well axe works this afternoon.
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So i have tested the axe while splitting some wood, the axe worked great although i will put more effort in it to get it sharper. Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. :D
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Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. :D
thats generally a good thing - did you put wedges between the head and the handle ?
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Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. :D
thats generally a good thing
+1 :D
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Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. :D
thats generally a good thing
+1 :D
Head and handle staying in close proximity is definitely a bonus. :D
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Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. :D
thats generally a good thing
+1 :D
Head and handle staying in close proximity is definitely a bonus. :D
Yes!
Unintentional premature head separation can be a pain :D
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Also the axe head didn't fly away so that was nice. :D
thats generally a good thing - did you put wedges between the head and the handle ?
No i have not wedged wood between the head and the handle, i have already used the axe a couple of times on some 20 centimeter diameter logs and the head is still in place :D
I will try to make it sharper again, the previous time i did it with my swisstool file. I din't really put a lot of time and effort in to it, although it was sharp it was more of a large burr than a knife like edge.
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:popcorn:
:cheers:
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So i have tried to sharpen the axe again. This time i did a pretty good job by first using the course side of the file and after that the fine side to touch it up. the only problem i am having is that i notice a burr on either the left or the right side of the cutting part. It depends on which side i did the last stroke. After watching the wranglerstar video he files it in the direction of the axe head so i will give that a trie. But i can also try to sharpen the last part on my lansky turnbox :think:
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Ten bonus points for sharpening it with the SwissTool. Couldn't be easy to do. Use the smoothest file you have to take the burr off.
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The burr is there because you could work the edge to a finer finish (a burr is a good thing as it tells you that you are hitting the ‘apex’ with your file/stone :tu: )
Do you own an oil/water stone? Or...
I use 150grit ‘sand paper’ glued to a batten for finishing off my axes and then a leather strop if I can be bothered
Will post some pictures later
Or if you want to risk it,
Clamp the head down and use one of the Lansky rods like a file (count your fingers after trying this :whistle: )
:cheers:
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The burr is there because you could work the edge to a finer finish (a burr is a good thing as it tells you that you are hitting the ‘apex’ with your file/stone :tu: )
Do you own an oil/water stone? Or...
I use 150grit ‘sand paper’ glued to a batten for finishing off my axes and then a leather strop if I can be bothered
Will post some pictures later
Or if you want to risk it,
Clamp the head down and use one of the Lansky rods like a file (count your fingers after trying this :whistle: )
:cheers:
I don't own a decent sharpening stone, only a cheap sharpening stone that makes your knives dull:facepalm:
I might try to clamp the head down and use the coarse lansky rod to sharpen it. :tu:
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The burr is there because you could work the edge to a finer finish (a burr is a good thing as it tells you that you are hitting the ‘apex’ with your file/stone :tu: )
Do you own an oil/water stone? Or...
I use 150grit ‘sand paper’ glued to a batten for finishing off my axes and then a leather strop if I can be bothered
Will post some pictures later
Or if you want to risk it,
Clamp the head down and use one of the Lansky rods like a file (count your fingers after trying this :whistle: )
:cheers:
I don't own a decent sharpening stone, only a cheap sharpening stone that makes your knives dull:facepalm:
I might try to clamp the head down and use the coarse lansky rod to sharpen it. :tu:
I recently got a lansky puck I find it really good. Dunno about razor sharp but that's more due to my skill or lack of skill more like. Paid 6 or 7 Euro plus shipping for it.
And yeah I know all I'm doing is encouraging you to spend money . . . . Sorry :facepalm:
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The burr is there because you could work the edge to a finer finish (a burr is a good thing as it tells you that you are hitting the ‘apex’ with your file/stone :tu: )
Do you own an oil/water stone? Or...
I use 150grit ‘sand paper’ glued to a batten for finishing off my axes and then a leather strop if I can be bothered
Will post some pictures later
Or if you want to risk it,
Clamp the head down and use one of the Lansky rods like a file (count your fingers after trying this :whistle: )
:cheers:
I don't own a decent sharpening stone, only a cheap sharpening stone that makes your knives dull:facepalm:
I might try to clamp the head down and use the coarse lansky rod to sharpen it. :tu:
I recently got a lansky puck I find it really good. Dunno about razor sharp but that's more due to my skill or lack of skill more like. Paid 6 or 7 Euro plus shipping for it.
And yeah I know all I'm doing is encouraging you to spend money . . . . Sorry :facepalm:
Hehe, i am someone that as long as i can find another method to complete the task i will try and use that. If there is no other good option i will try to buy a dedicated tool.
I can get all my knives razor sharp on the lansky turnbox so we will see if i can get the axe to decent sharpness.
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I'm all for trying what you already have :salute:
If you can't get the rods to work maybe give your oil stone another try, clamp the head and move the stone
Or try gluing some sandpaper to a flat stick, Works surprisingly well :salute:
Also the trick of colouring the blade with a sharpy helps for me :tu:
My strop and sanding batten ;)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/sparky_415/2016/DSC04536.jpg) (http://s112.photobucket.com/user/sparky_415/media/2016/DSC04536.jpg.html)
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I'm all for trying what you already have :salute:
If you can't get the rods to work maybe give your oil stone another try, clamp the head and move the stone
Or try gluing some sandpaper to a flat stick, Works surprisingly well :salute:
Also the trick of colouring the blade with a sharpy helps for me :tu:
My strop and sanding batten ;)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/sparky_415/2016/DSC04536.jpg) (http://s112.photobucket.com/user/sparky_415/media/2016/DSC04536.jpg.html)
It still isn't razor sharp yet but sharp enough for splitting wood. (And cutting yourself, i have tested that already)
I am trying to find out how old the other axe is and if it's worth any money. I see some axes going for more that 200 Euros that look newer than the one i have.
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I guess you could try putting it on Fleabay with a reserve price on it? :think:
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As to the burr you can also try stropping it. I'd suggest another option is using the finest grade sand paper as well.
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So yesterday when using my axe to split some logs the handle broke. I have been to the shop where i bought the handle and got a new one under warranty.
But i would not be a member on this forum if i didn't try to save the old handle.
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I have screwed it back to getter like a docter fixes a broken foot.
I hope doctors don't leave a broken drill bit in bit in a foot. :facepalm:
I have already tested it by slamming as hard as i can on the side of a big piece of wood and it didn't break so i hope this will last a lot of years. I will also try to see if i can find the missing piece of wood so i can screw that back on the handle even though it doesn't offer any extra strength. It also doesn't improve comfort because you hold the handle below where it is broken.
I don't know if there are any carpenters on this forum that can confirm this but i believe the handle broke because the wood was so dry. A wet piece of wood is much tougher than a dry piece of wood. I have not treated the handle with linseed oil yet but could this improve the toughness of the handle? It basicly fractured al the way in to the head even though that part is more than 2 to 3 centimeters thick.
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Looks like wood grain goes through your handle. That makes weak spot, and that is reason your handle broke. Allways look handle that has straight grains that go all the way on the handle.
Nice job fixing it. You could wrap some leather around that fixed area.
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Looks like wood grain goes through your handle. That makes weak spot, and that is reason your handle broke. Allways look handle that has straight grains that go all the way on the handle.
Nice job fixing it. You could wrap some leather around that fixed area.
That's what it looks like to me too. Good looking job on the repair, though I've no idea how well it will hold I agree that it's worth tying it to find out. :salute:
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I'm with these two :salute:
:cheers:
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I guess you could try putting it on Fleabay with a reserve price on it? :think:
I have made some nice photos of it and put it on the dutch version of ebay. I advertised it as vintage / decoration from around the year 1900 and ask 50 euros for it. I have not had any reactions on it yet :(
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I'm not a professional, so if anyone says different, go with them, however
I sharpen my axes with a File, and then a Stone.
After wedging the handle in I fill in any gaps with epoxy (same with sledges etc)