Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => Leatherman Tools => Topic started by: tonytools on March 24, 2010, 04:42:25 PM
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What kind of tamper resistant nuts are on the Super Tool 300?
They look like some 30 piont drive, are they a custom thing Leatherman has?
Are there special driver tools you can buy for these?
Thanks, Tony.
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They are proprietary fittings (we tend to refer to them as "knurled" screws around here), and alas you cannot buy a tool for removing them.
The smaller screws (the ones that attach the knife and component tools) can be manipulated using a couple of Kick pocket clips, but the plier head end uses larger screws.
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Thanks for the information Dave.
At least I can get to some of them :D
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While we are on this subject does anyone know what size the plier end pivot pins are on the 300 and on the contour models. I know the tool side is 3/16 inch. If anyone has taken the plier side apart let us know.
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They are proprietary fittings (we tend to refer to them as "knurled" screws around here), and alas you cannot buy a tool for removing them.
The smaller screws (the ones that attach the knife and component tools) can be manipulated using a couple of Kick pocket clips, but the plier head end uses larger screws.
I emailed LM about what they call them and they call them knurled screws as well :tu:
While we are on this subject does anyone know what size the plier end pivot pins are on the 300 and on the contour models. I know the tool side is 3/16 inch. If anyone has taken the plier side apart let us know.
I believe DaveK has taken that side apart as well but he has the tools to do it :D Perhaps he will be back in a few and let us know :tu:
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I did, but I didn't measure anything guys, sorry.
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Search and you will find a very informative thread by (I'm 99% sure..) the member Spoonrobot. It involves a rubber mallet and a cheap socket set 8)
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While we are on this subject does anyone know what size the plier end pivot pins are on the 300 and on the contour models. I know the tool side is 3/16 inch. If anyone has taken the plier side apart let us know.
Plier side is 3/16 also :salute:
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I think I might have an idea; I will post the results when my tool comes in the mail.
It will be fun so stay tuned, I will post even if it fails to work out. :salute:
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I think I might have an idea; I will post the results when my tool comes in the mail.
It will be fun so stay tuned, I will post even if it fails to work out. :salute:
Standing by for some fun........ :salute:
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They are proprietary fittings (we tend to refer to them as "knurled" screws around here), and alas you cannot buy a tool for removing them.
The smaller screws (the ones that attach the knife and component tools) can be manipulated using a couple of Kick pocket clips, but the plier head end uses larger screws.
Some people don't like their nuts played with! ::)
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They are proprietary fittings (we tend to refer to them as "knurled" screws around here), and alas you cannot buy a tool for removing them.
The smaller screws (the ones that attach the knife and component tools) can be manipulated using a couple of Kick pocket clips, but the plier head end uses larger screws.
Some people don't like their nuts played with! ::)
Is that a leatherman or Pulp Fiction Joke? 8)
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They are proprietary fittings (we tend to refer to them as "knurled" screws around here), and alas you cannot buy a tool for removing them.
The smaller screws (the ones that attach the knife and component tools) can be manipulated using a couple of Kick pocket clips, but the plier head end uses larger screws.
Some people don't like their nuts played with! ::)
Is that a leatherman or Pulp Fiction Joke? 8)
Pick one ::)
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Testicle jokes aside, why does Leatherman use those goofy knurled nuts AND "normal" security torx construction? You would think for consistency they would just pick one system (hopefully the torx) and use that for ALL production. Wouldn't it be simpler for them to use one kind of fastener? Wouldn't it save money on inventory ect? No way using more varied kinds of fasteners makes sense from a business standpoint, I just don't get it.
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Testicle jokes aside, why does Leatherman use those goofy knurled nuts AND "normal" security torx construction? You would think for consistency they would just pick one system (hopefully the torx) and use that for ALL production. Wouldn't it be simpler for them to use one kind of fastener? Wouldn't it save money on inventory ect? No way using more varied kinds of fasteners makes sense from a business standpoint, I just don't get it.
Though I was being a bit double entendre, Leatherman probably doesn't want a half baked fool trying to take their multitool apart , then ship it back to LMbecause the idiot forgot how to put it back together :think:
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Testicle jokes aside, why does Leatherman use those goofy knurled nuts AND "normal" security torx construction? You would think for consistency they would just pick one system (hopefully the torx) and use that for ALL production. Wouldn't it be simpler for them to use one kind of fastener? Wouldn't it save money on inventory ect? No way using more varied kinds of fasteners makes sense from a business standpoint, I just don't get it.
It is odd , they use tamper proof Torx fasteners , which we all like as tamper proof tool bits are readily available :D :D :D.
I am wondering if the ST 300 got the knurled fasteners simply as a carry over from the Core model it replaces :think: :think:.
Be interesting too know how they decide which model gets Knurled & which gets Torx :think:
They probably have truck loads of knurled fasteners in stock :think: :think:
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Seems like they added the 5-lobe Torx TX for the Wave since it uses bolsters on the implement ends and much larger head diameter hardware at the blade ends. Seems like the trend has continued, any tool with bolsters gets the Torx hardware and anything with one-piece handles gets the knurled fasteners.
Not quite sure what the difference is between the Charge Ti and the Al that makes one Torx and one knurled. Ditto with the Sideclip.
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Testicle jokes aside, why does Leatherman use those goofy knurled nuts AND "normal" security torx construction? You would think for consistency they would just pick one system (hopefully the torx) and use that for ALL production. Wouldn't it be simpler for them to use one kind of fastener? Wouldn't it save money on inventory ect? No way using more varied kinds of fasteners makes sense from a business standpoint, I just don't get it.
Though I was being a bit double entendre, Leatherman probably doesn't want a half baked fool trying to take their multitool apart , then ship it back to LMbecause the idiot forgot how to put it back together :think:
The query was not why do they use them, more why do they use readily available torx AND the knurled fasteners.
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In addition, why did they move from the 5-pointed torx fittings to 6? 5 point security torx bits are much harder to find, and therefore more secure you'd think!
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Ok here is my test JB weld using socket nuts. I have to wait 15 hours for full cure.
1. Test sockets
2. What is needed, two sockets, grinding bur, alcohol to clean surface, Play-Doh, mini paint brush, Q-tips, masking tape and mixing sticks.
3. Grinding out sockets, so JB Weld will stick to the socket.
4. Play-Doh in sockets to keep JB weld from coming out through the top.
5. Clean sockets with alcohol and Q-tips.
6. Mask Leatherman super tool 200.
7. Use paintbrush and Vaseline to keep JB Weld from sticking to metal.
8 and 9. Mix JB weld
11. Top off JB Weld in sockets.
12. Put JB Weld on Leatherman and clamp.
13. Leatherman is clamped and wait 15 hour for cure time.
Will post results when it drys or I cry.
Tony ::)
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Great idea. Hope it works.
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First try did not work.
Will try agian, here is what I will do different.
1. Measure out JB Weld with digital scale, then mix it.
2. Add metal dust with epoxy to help hold it together.
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First try did not work.
Will try agian, here is what I will do different.
1. Measure out JB Weld with digital scale, then mix it.
2. Add metal dust with epoxy to help hold it together.
Good luck mate , but when I tried with JB Weld putty I got good impressions but the impression got stripped out by the LM knurled fastener when I used it :(
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First try did not work.
Will try agian, here is what I will do different.
1. Measure out JB Weld with digital scale, then mix it.
2. Add metal dust with epoxy to help hold it together.
Why don't you cnc a part up mu h easy to make it out of stell
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What kind of tamper resistant nuts are on the Super Tool 300?
They look like some 30 piont drive, are they a custom thing Leatherman has?
Are there special driver tools you can buy for these?
Thanks, Tony.
Here is a URL for Ebay showing wrenches for Leatherman Multitools:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=wrench+for+disasswmbling+leatherman+mulrtitools&_sacat=0&_odkw=wrenchmulrtitools+for+disasswmbling+leatherman+&_osacat=0
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Why don't you cnc a part up mu h easy to make it out of stell
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