Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => Edged Tools => Topic started by: Dean51 on June 16, 2019, 06:26:35 PM
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Earlier this year I swore off getting any new knives, don't worry about me I'm still in the rabbit hole.
What I'm doing is working on knife projects, I've got a dozen knives here that need slight tweeks that will make a big difference in them. Or that I've reground but left half finished. The half finished grinds are as ground on a 120 carbide belt, they're a bit scratchy looking.
I ordered some new silican carbide sanding belts that came in yesterday, 400, 800 and 700 trizat.
So at 6 AM I pulled out these four knives and went to work. There's a lot of difference between 120 grit and 400 grit. I could have stopped there but they still had a scratchy look and and I wanted to try out the 800 grit. The 800 grit has a nice satin look, rather than the scratchy look it had before. I think I'll stop there for now, but maybe not I still have to try the trizat belt.1095 is the only steel I like polished because that seems to make it harder for a patina to get started.
Tomorrow I'm going to tackle the Euro barlows.
(https://i.imgur.com/ys4dG7v.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BhmV6Pv.jpg)
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Nice! :like: Good looking knives :hatsoff:
Sent fra min FRD-L09 via Tapatalk
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:iagree: excellent work :like: :tu:
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:like: :iagree: :tu:
Nice job Dean !
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:iagree: :iagree:
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:salute:
Thanks all. I am having fun, i tend to go nuts with nothing to do.
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Those knives are looking really good Dean. Good job! :like:
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:salute:
Thanks all. I am having fun, i tend to go nuts with nothing to do.
Hmmm :think: nothing to do huh. :think: Let's see here. :think: May be Moose might get loose and come down for a visit. :D
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Very nice, have fun!
JR
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Nice work!
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Dean, that's great work! Very even looking, looks awesome!
Btw, thank you for you and Steves' previous comments on rounding the tang, my GEC 54's pull has gone down from a 9 to 8, I am in process of keeping the blades open to mildly weaken the spring(been a few days, not very noticeable difference, but gonna give it another week or two). I don't want to round the tang too aggressively, since I think it only really affects the pull once it is partially open.
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I could kill for some trizact belts, but it seems my chances of getting pregnant are better :facepalm:
Very nice work Dean! :cheers:
Many questions......
What grinder are you using?
Grinding edge up?
Speed? (just for interest sake)
I'm very much interested in your technique simply because I can't figure out a way that will give such nice results and not lead to some cut belts.
Flip it over and cut fingers is the next option :rofl:
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GG lots of questions, I'll work on making up answers thru the day.
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Sod busters which I never liked have become a favorite this year, as close to perfect as the GEC is there's always room for improvement or to personalize.
The #71 was a slight bit harder to open than I usually like, going to see if it can become a little easier to open and keep it's strong snap when locking open.
The spring on the GEC is just a bit shorter than the tang and that's not a problem other than it causes a bit more drag when opening.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ghc3kfA.jpg)
Tangs are usually left as stamped and only finished enough to fit and flush the back spring. In this case I cleaned up the stamping marks and put a small angle (less than 10 degrees) on the tang end that contacts the spring. That made the first 10 or 15 percent of the opening much smother but didn't affect the rest of the opening.
I then added a small half radius to the tangs corner that smoothed it out until it was half way to the half stop. Where it still snaps in with authority.
If I can explain it better. I rounded the first part of the tangs corner but stopped half way and didn't put a full radius in the corner.
(https://i.imgur.com/pqJtkQ1.jpg)
I didn't want to soften up the opening snap just smooth it out a bit, so the opposite tang corner got a very small radius. Really just took the 90 degree corner off.
It came out better than expected, now it's the perfect GEC sodbuster.
(https://i.imgur.com/c5zLL0z.jpg)
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Sod busters which I never liked have become a favorite this year, as close to perfect as the GEC is there's always room for improvement or to personalize.
The #71 was a slight bit harder to open than I usually like, going to see if it can become a little easier to open and keep it's strong snap when locking open.
The spring on the GEC is just a bit shorter than the tang and that's not a problem other than it causes a bit more drag when opening.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ghc3kfA.jpg)
Tangs are usually left as stamped and only finished enough to fit and flush the back spring. In this case I cleaned up the stamping marks and put a small angle (less than 10 degrees) on the tang end that contacts the spring. That made the first 10 or 15 percent of the opening much smother but didn't affect the rest of the opening.
I then added a small half radius to the tangs corner that smoothed it out until it was half way to the half stop. Where it still snaps in with authority.
If I can explain it better. I rounded the first part of the tangs corner but stopped half way and didn't put a full radius in the corner.
(https://i.imgur.com/pqJtkQ1.jpg)
I didn't want to soften up the opening snap just smooth it out a bit, so the opposite tang corner got a very small radius. Really just took the 90 degree corner off.
It came out better than expected, now it's the perfect GEC sodbuster.
(https://i.imgur.com/c5zLL0z.jpg)
The spring on last years 71 is stout. Sounds like you got it where you want it. :tu:
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Hmmm :think: nothing to do huh. :think: Let's see here. :think: May be Moose might get loose and come down for a visit. :D
I'll have a bucket of oats and corn for him and promise to eat only fish. :)
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Many questions......
What grinder are you using?
Grinding edge up?
Speed? (just for interest sake)
I'm very much interested in your technique simply because I can't figure out a way that will give such nice results and not lead to some cut belts.
Flip it over and cut fingers is the next option :rofl:
This is the grinder I'm using, it's a Ryobi 4x36. It's a good mower blade sharpener but the plate is one piece folded to fit. that fold makes the edge of the plate not perfectly flat all the way to the sides. You need to work on the side of the plate to get all the way to the tang, technique is needed to overcome that.
I'm going to make a 1 1/2" x 1/2" cut out on the rolled edge of the plate and correct that.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y8iMeNP.jpg)
This is the grinder I want, My grinder is 1 hp and can run 2 10" wheels but I only keep one wheel on it at a time so it will spin up faster. I could bolt this attachment to the right side and be good to go.
Multitool 4x48, sold by Trick-Tools
(https://i.imgur.com/mD3c8lM.jpg)
Grinding
(https://i.imgur.com/6TR0lT8.jpg)
Grinder speed is default for the machine. The secret is no more than two passes before cooling in water and never apply to much pressure. Especially at the tip, a blade will pick up heat fast there. I'm a bit paranoid about heat, I won't let the blade get more than comfortable luke warm. I have a gizmo that will slow down an AC motor and still let it retain torque but I don't use it.
Don't worry about cutting belts even at .014 behind the edge you're still .007 from the belt. :whistle:
The first blade that wasn't practice I did nick the spine with the 80 grit belt, it cleaned up nicely. well mostly any way, at least it was not an expensive knife.
Laying the blade on the belt is just technique kind of like free handing. When you're an 1/8 from the belt level the blade , lower and level, lower and level then gently touch the belt level and grind.
My technique is to hold the knife like you were cutting a waist high box just firm enough to have control of the handle. Rest the butt of my other hand on the opposite side of the knife. The reason I use one finger on the blade is it's very easy to over grind the belly of the knife, using one finger allows you to keep pressure on the spine in the tip and belly area. Or apply more pressure to an area that might need more grinding. Work with a wet blade and finger tip so it will slide under your finger better.
To grind I work the blade two ways either pull the blade under my finger or pull my finger back towards the tip either way works. To work the tip and belly area and keep at least some finger prints I work it separably as I go. Instead of sliding my finger off the tip onto the belt. I use the handle and apply slight up words lift to the handle for the tip and belly area. That tip/belly area is the one you have to watch, with less metal it's easy to over grind or worse yet over heat.
Keep water handy.
A micrometer or caliper is needed with very little practice you can hold plus or minus .001 to .0005.
band aids. :rofl: you never know. I've never drawn blood but did loose a couple layers of skin working a Queen city muskrat tip.
This is hard to explain, it makes sense to me but not sure it it will come out and mean anything to you.
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:like: :tu:
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Nice belt sander Dean :like: :tu:
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This is the grinder I'm using, it's a Ryobi 4x36. It's a good mower blade sharpener but the plate is one piece folded to fit. that fold makes the edge of the plate not perfectly flat all the way to the sides. You need to work on the side of the plate to get all the way to the tang, technique is needed to overcome that.
I'm going to make a 1 1/2" x 1/2" cut out on the rolled edge of the plate and correct that.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y8iMeNP.jpg)
This is the grinder I want, My grinder is 1 hp and can run 2 10" wheels but I only keep one wheel on it at a time so it will spin up faster. I could bolt this attachment to the right side and be good to go.
Multitool 4x48, sold by Trick-Tools
(https://i.imgur.com/mD3c8lM.jpg)
Grinding
(https://i.imgur.com/6TR0lT8.jpg)
Grinder speed is default for the machine. The secret is no more than two passes before cooling in water and never apply to much pressure. Especially at the tip, a blade will pick up heat fast there. I'm a bit paranoid about heat, I won't let the blade get more than comfortable luke warm. I have a gizmo that will slow down an AC motor and still let it retain torque but I don't use it.
Don't worry about cutting belts even at .014 behind the edge you're still .007 from the belt. :whistle:
The first blade that wasn't practice I did nick the spine with the 80 grit belt, it cleaned up nicely. well mostly any way, at least it was not an expensive knife.
Laying the blade on the belt is just technique kind of like free handing. When you're an 1/8 from the belt level the blade , lower and level, lower and level then gently touch the belt level and grind.
My technique is to hold the knife like you were cutting a waist high box just firm enough to have control of the handle. Rest the butt of my other hand on the opposite side of the knife. The reason I use one finger on the blade is it's very easy to over grind the belly of the knife, using one finger allows you to keep pressure on the spine in the tip and belly area. Or apply more pressure to an area that might need more grinding. Work with a wet blade and finger tip so it will slide under your finger better.
To grind I work the blade two ways either pull the blade under my finger or pull my finger back towards the tip either way works. To work the tip and belly area and keep at least some finger prints I work it separably as I go. Instead of sliding my finger off the tip onto the belt. I use the handle and apply slight up words lift to the handle for the tip and belly area. That tip/belly area is the one you have to watch, with less metal it's easy to over grind or worse yet over heat.
Keep water handy.
A micrometer or caliper is needed with very little practice you can hold plus or minus .001 to .0005.
band aids. :rofl: you never know. I've never drawn blood but did loose a couple layers of skin working a Queen city muskrat tip.
This is hard to explain, it makes sense to me but not sure it it will come out and mean anything to you.
I mostly unstand your technique but not sure I could pull it off as well as you do. :tu: :)
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I mostly understand your technique but not sure I could pull it off as well as you do. :tu: :)
A couple garage sale case's and a paring knife died before I had the nerve to touch my knives. :rofl:
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Thanks for taking the time to reply Dean :tu:
I'm struggling with belt and platten issues, but looking at your photos I realized I need to setup my grinder differently at get more angles of attack :salute:
This is the grinder I want, My grinder is 1 hp and can run 2 10" wheels but I only keep one wheel on it at a time so it will spin up faster. I could bolt this attachment to the right side and be good to go.
Multitool 4x48, sold by Trick-Tools
:salute:
While getting advice on the above-mentioned issue a knife maker my senior in years and experienced explained to me why the disc grinder is such an indispensable tool....looks like that machine has the bases covered. :salute:
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Thanks for taking the time to reply Dean :tu:
I'm struggling with belt and platen issues, but looking at your photos I realized I need to setup my grinder differently at get more angles of attack :salute:
:salute:
While getting advice on the above-mentioned issue a knife maker my senior in years and experienced explained to me why the disc grinder is such an indispensable tool....looks like that machine has the bases covered. :salute:
You can't really find a great platen on a grander from shelf stock at Lowe's.
There are belt grinders dedicated to knives but they are way out of my league and budget.
The right side is the only angle of attack I have on that grinder. The tensioner housing gets in the way on the other side. Today I'm going to cut out a couple of inches of the right side platen radius, which will put me into good flat plate.
Most people who do this use 2"x 72" or longer belts but room issues an the fact this grinder does other general work a 4"x 48" would be ideal for me. Both sides of the belt would in a sense give me 96" inches of usable belt.
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Very nice job. I enjoy this these type projects. Really satisfying work.
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Made the grinder modifications this morning. A milling machine would have been nice but around here it got hogged out with a 3" cut off wheel.
This gets me to flat platen and will make getting the tang area Much easier It even allows for thumb studs.
The next project will be the Rat 2 for $35 it's a nice enough knife but at .024 behind the edge it has poopy edge geometry. Hard use maybe but I have tools for that.
(https://i.imgur.com/HyV8RC3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/z5dZKTE.jpg)
Yesterday I tried the 700 trizat paper on the loin steel barlows M390, that was a waste of time. M390 was just to hard for it. I used it today on some 1095 a few passes and the old grinding marks were gone polished to a nice satin sheen. :D
(https://i.imgur.com/GO4Jspv.jpg)
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You can't really find a great platen on a grander from shelf stock at Lowe's.
There are belt grinders dedicated to knives but they are way out of my league and budget.
I got a weld-it-together-yourself kit, I like to tell myself splurging on on 1.5kW motor and VFD was a good investment, but I've run into a belt bump issue 220 grit and upwards......eats a worm into the blade.
Except for being a bit short, my platen is mild steel, so that wasn't a great start :facepalm: I could make and harden a platen myself......IF I could get 50mm wide steel :facepalm:
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ceramic kitchen tile? :think:
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You would have to find a way to attach ceramic.
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:iagree:
There's a lot happening pretty fast, I considered glass and tiles.....same problem.
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Tangs are usually left as stamped and only finished enough to fit and flush the back spring. In this case I cleaned up the stamping marks and put a small angle (less than 10 degrees) on the tang end that contacts the spring. That made the first 10 or 15 percent of the opening much smother but didn't affect the rest of the opening.
I hope to own one....or a few :rofl:.......some day, but this is the first time I thought to myself "GEC could/should do better" :think:
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I hope to own one....or a few :rofl:.......some day, but this is the first time I thought to myself "GEC could/should do better" :think:
GEC could do better but I don't know if it's necessary that they should.
On traditional's the only thing that resembles automation is stamping the tang and liners. The rest of the fit and finish is by hand, thats expensive. To do better would be a lot of added cost, that cost might do more harm than good. They are already the best production knife I've seen and that includes the old brands that are no longer.
Really all I did was break in the knife. I could have just used it and in time it would have smoothed out on it's own.
Knives like the Lionsteel barlow and Maserin plow are built with much newer equipment. There quality relies on precision maching that can just be screwed together, with minimal hand fitting.
Traditional purists tend not to like the aesthetics of a screw.
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This Guys a barrel of fun but...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcdGzoe9Pkw
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Good video I didn't realize this was a common enough problem to find youtube videos on it.
Find a floor supply and some smooth tile and get them to cut it, a little PC-7 epoxy might be all it takes.
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:tu:
I spend far too much time on the interweb ::)
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You found some useful info. Thanks :salute:
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RE ground the Rat 2's this morning, these knives were about .023 Behind The Edge. Well that's not bad for a modern knife but it's not good geometry for a knife used as a knife. With the thin blade stock it could be better.
They're about .015 BTE now and they are excellent cutters.
I tried to as an experiment and ground the R2-D2 to 220 grit but it gets difficult on the harder steels to get the 400 grit marks off. Lesson learned I went back to 400 grit and I think it looks better that way, it is after all a $35 knife.
(https://i.imgur.com/HJ7mbSy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ymqj5VC.jpg)
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RE ground the Rat 2's this morning, these knives were about .023 Behind The Edge. Well that's not bad for a modern knife but it's not good geometry for a knife used as a knife. With the thin blade stock it could be better.
They're about .015 BTE now and they are excellent cutters.
I tried to as an experiment and ground the R2-D2 to 220 grit but it gets difficult on the harder steels to get the 400 grit marks off. Lesson learned I went back to 400 grit and I think it looks better that way, it is after all a $35 knife.
(https://i.imgur.com/HJ7mbSy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ymqj5VC.jpg)
That's great job! I just measured my 91mm SAK, and it's about 0.015 BTE. I could imagine being a much bigger blade, 0.023 BTE probably won't make it as good as a slicer, and improvement should be very noticeable afterwards. :tu: This is a territory I really want to learn more about as a knife enthusiast, I could touchup/sharpen/reprofile a blade edge ok, but making that primary grind is something I totally lack experience of.
Btw, R2-D2, what a cool name for this value knife. :like:
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That's great job! I just measured my 91mm SAK, and it's about 0.015 BTE. I could imagine being a much bigger blade, 0.023 BTE probably won't make it as good as a slicer, and improvement should be very noticeable afterwards. :tu: This is a territory I really want to learn more about as a knife enthusiast, I could touchup/sharpen/reprofile a blade edge ok, but making that primary grind is something I totally lack experience of.
Btw, R2-D2, what a cool name for this value knife. :like:
To do it takes nerve, or confidence or a lack of common sense, I have plenty of the last. :rofl:
This is my entire modern collection, minus the two Rat's.
The Bugout, Freek & Smith & sons are the thickest BTE at .019, the Mini Barrage & Saibu are .016, the red & black wasp is under .015.
The Bugout has become afraid of grinders and for good reason, it's got a good sized blade and is lighter than many knives half it's size.
It's just asking for a regrind, I do like a knife that cuts well.
(https://i.imgur.com/IyHIGF1.jpg)
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To do it takes nerve, or confidence or a lack of common sense, I have plenty of the last. :rofl:
This is my entire modern collection, minus the two Rat's.
The Bugout, Freek & Smith & sons are the thickest BTE at .019, the Mini Barrage & Saibu are .016, the red & black wasp is under .015.
The Bugout has become afraid of grinders and for good reason, it's got a good sized blade and is lighter than many knives half it's size.
It's just asking for a regrind, I do like a knife that cuts well.
(https://i.imgur.com/IyHIGF1.jpg)
Regardless the formula, look how well it works though! :D
These are all pretty good purchase, many of which are classics. :tu: I am just slowly learning how to mod my SAKs, and should I know how to grind, that will probably open so many doors to endless MT modding fun... >:D
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I see a Cypress in that bunch ol'knives. I didn't know you had one of those. Smith has only done or two :think: runs of those. Good score. What your assessment of it?
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I see a Cypress in that bunch ol'knives. I didn't know you had one of those. Smith has only done or two :think: runs of those. Good score. What your assessment of it?
I got this shortly before I swore off new knives for the year, I blame the purchase on all the Buck 110 & 112 chatter here. The moderns get carried as the second knife regularly but I don't post the moderns very often. I was never able to talk my self into a Buck 112, so this is what I decided on instead.
It's 1/8th” longer & 1.5 to 2.0 ounces lighter than a standard 112. It's all steel so it has a very substantial feel to it and all the steel inside and out has a well done stone wash finish. The stone wash gives the liners and back spacer a small radius so there are no sharp edges. The handle is large enough and has a very comfortable feel without any hot spots and the G10 is well executed. No texture is needed on the handle. The tang rides low and mostly hidden with a rediused corner that won't eat pockets.
Blade is .115 at the spine substantial enough to do what knives are made to do with out being a wedge. I never use the pocket clip but it is an excellent clip. There is enough of a rise that it easily slides over pocket seams, enough tension to hold it and the G10 won't eat your pocket's.
I use mine a lot for recycling cardboard and 2 gal plastic cat litter jugs the D2 seems to hold an edge well. If sharpening is any indication the heat treat was good.
If you've ever read many knife reviews you'll see a sentence or paragraph on ergo's, steel, materials etc and 3 or 4 paragraphs on deployment. Well I could don't give a smurfs patoot about deployment. Lock up is excellent with the liner stopping just where it should. The liner spring is strong and that's where the whip out and deploy with a resounding clank crowd will not like this knife. The combination of strong liner tension and a light blade do not make for a good whip out and deploy action.
I'm not part of that crowd, I open knives I do not deploy my knives. So this knife suits me perfectly. I'm one of those slowly roll it open and deliberately one hand roll it closed kind of people.
The thumb stud is positioned well back on the tang and not in the way when cutting.
The first complaint I have is the stud should be a bit thicker and longer, it is a bit small. The second complaint is the combination of a strong liner spring and a deep detent and it was hard to open. For a couple weeks I pondered whether to send it back or fix it. You know me I decided to fix it and send a note to Smith and Sons. I used it for a couple weeks to let the detent ball rub the tang and leave a light mark. I used a 600 grit tapered diamond file the ones sold for serrated blades and made 4 light passes followed by 800 wet/dry paper on a toothpick. It's an easy knife to disassemble and put back together.
If you can fix the opening detent it's an excellent knife. If you want a fidget flipper you won't be happy with it.
The more I use it the happier I am with it, this knife will not be sold off.
(https://i.imgur.com/eObHTru.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vL18jTM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DyZXGpS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Nc7hD3R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aGcvjt5.jpg)
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A simple project today. I picked this Recruit up for the wife's tackle box but she didn't like it. She said it had to many blades and was fidgety but she wanted the openers. :facepalm: So my fix was to get her a case sodbuster and make a single layer SAK.
(https://i.imgur.com/HTGDc4G.jpg)
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A simple project today. I picked this Recruit up for the wife's tackle box but she didn't like it. She said it had to many blades and was fidgety but she wanted the openers. :facepalm: So my fix was to get her a case sodbuster and make a single layer SAK.
(https://i.imgur.com/HTGDc4G.jpg)
Good solution! :like:
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Cool 8) :like:
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This is why I did the bullnose differenty.
(https://i.imgur.com/nJAChtI.jpg)
You can see in the first pic that the tang is longer than the back spring. So when opening the blade the top of the tang would rub the back spring. All I did to the back was polish a portion of the tangs top to smooth out the stamping marks. It would have smoothed out in time anyway I just rushed it.
(https://i.imgur.com/V9bFvls.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OgWc2ar.jpg)
On your knife you want to concentrate your polishing on that portion of the tang, that rubs the spring first when you start to open the blade.
The first half of the radius will smooth out that initial movement ½ way to the half stop position.
The second half of the radius will smooth out the rest of the movement to the half stop.
It can also soften the closing snap, you may or may not want to do that.
Concentrate most of your polishing on the first half of the radius. That will give you time to get a two finger grip to open the rest of the way.
Again go slowly, remember you can take metal off but you can't put metal back on.
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Again go slowly, remember you can take metal off but you can't put metal back on.
Very wise words :salute:
:cheers:
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This is why I did the bullnose differenty.
(https://i.imgur.com/nJAChtI.jpg)
You can see in the first pic that the tang is longer than the back spring. So when opening the blade the top of the tang would rub the back spring. All I did to the back was polish a portion of the tangs top to smooth out the stamping marks. It would have smoothed out in time anyway I just rushed it.
(https://i.imgur.com/V9bFvls.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OgWc2ar.jpg)
On your knife you want to concentrate your polishing on that portion of the tang, that rubs the spring first when you start to open the blade.
The first half of the radius will smooth out that initial movement ½ way to the half stop position.
The second half of the radius will smooth out the rest of the movement to the half stop.
It can also soften the closing snap, you may or may not want to do that.
Concentrate most of your polishing on the first half of the radius. That will give you time to get a two finger grip to open the rest of the way.
Again go slowly, remember you can take metal off but you can't put metal back on.
Thank you Dean! Very detailed and good illustration! :hatsoff:
What I did to the 54 is to 'scratch/thin out' very, very lightly at the 1st beginning quarter of the tang corner and a tiny bit of side of the tang(using your illustration, the red part). This indeed is very delicate job, and I have to almost open/close the blade on every 'pass' of the diamond file to be sure I didn't take too much off.
Right now, I was using a small size flat diamond file with it's all four sides taped up, so only the very top of the file is exposed. And I use to that top side to 'scratch/rub' the tang back and forth to remove material. Maybe a really fine sandpaper taped onto a popsical stick would do a better job(like you said in another post)? :think:
So far the result is satisfactory, the clip blade on my 54 has a very, very mild laziness when closing, but it is still a firm pull of 8. Don't want to make it close any lazier, I gonna just leave it at that. The spear blade is still feel a tad bit stronger, but it is probably a manageable 8.2 pull. Genuinely, I think this mod does make the knife a heck lot more usable, and felt safer too(original pull/close was so strong that whenever it 'snap' to the half stop, the force was so strong that the blade would vibrate around the half stop, as if it wants to 'snap' past the half stop and just close itself.)
Thanks again for the post, I definitely learn a lot and felt even a closer bond to the knife. :cheers:
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One thing that will help a lot is to flush and re oil the joint every time you check your progress.
If you don't the joint will feel dry and gritty and you won't get a good feel of your progress.
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One thing that will help a lot is to flush and re oil the joint every time you check your progress.
If you don't the joint will feel dry and gritty and you won't get a good feel of your progress.
That's good tip!
The last mod I used compressed air and clean the debris and it worked well too.
I've also tried using the cotton to fill the openings(so nothing gets in the joint/spring), but it is a hassle to keep stuffing it like a turkey every few passes.
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A simple project today. I picked this Recruit up for the wife's tackle box but she didn't like it. She said it had to many blades and was fidgety but she wanted the openers. :facepalm: So my fix was to get her a case sodbuster and make a single layer SAK.
(https://i.imgur.com/HTGDc4G.jpg)
Brilliant, that's the SAK I need to compliment my Grohmann folder :hatsoff:
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I couldn't find the perfect SAK so picked up a hammer and made it myself. This whatever it is and a Yoeman fit my needs.
(https://i.imgur.com/okPUijw.jpg)
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Nice job and cool scales ! :like:
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Nice job and cool scales ! :like:
:iagree: :like: Looks totally utilitarian!
The same tool with corkscrew is called a "Compact", the closest relative to it is the Duke of Edinburgh Pocket Tool(but that has a rounded blade)...
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Nice mod Dean.
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Nice job Dean :like: :tu: