Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => Swiss Army Knights Forum => Topic started by: Deedee on March 19, 2019, 09:10:52 PM
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Hi guys,I have vintage Wenger soldier 1908 model (pre 1920), and i have problem opening the blade (also other tools), looks like the backsprings are too strong. I have cleaned it well, put some oil, and i did not helped. Than i have leave the blade half opened
for about a month to make the spring loose some snap, but it did not helped as well, the backsprings are too strong and the snap also. I can open the tools and blade with pliers easily, but i want to make the knife fully functional, and i don't want to break my nails again. Anyone had a similar problem and knows how to solve this???
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Have you tried soaking the joints in something like wd40? Not sure how you would do this without saturating the scales though. :dunno:
Maybe sit the top end in some then just carefully spray the rest?
Even though you've cleaned it there could still be some crud stuck in there which would create more fiction than is needed I guess...
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How familiar are you with Soldiers? All Soldiers pre 2008 (with liner lock) have heavier back springs than the more familiar cellidor SAKs. My 57 Soldier is in like new condition, and the tools are pretty stiff.
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Thanks for the answer guys. I was also thinking to put some WD40 on joints. And I'm familiar with soldiers, I have 2 other 1908 model (carbon steel) and tools on those seem to open smooth after cleaning and oiling.
But i think the problem with this one is the spring tension, it is just too high, Or the problem is with joints. I really want to make this one OK, because this is one of the knives that i like most.
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Hi Deedee!
Old soldiers can be very stiff sometimes and I see multiple possible explanations:
- occasional tighter riveting due to the work being mostly done by hand as opposed to machones by now.
- I have many 1908 soldiers and some are so hard I don't see how they could pass a QC if they can't be easily used by the soldiers these are given to. I think maybe the knife needs to be "broken in"; as you open it hundreds of times the friction will erode both pieces (or just the liners?) making it easier to open.
- crud: try an ultrasonic bath in warm soapy water. (I got one small such device for about 20$). Dry your knife very well (compressed air works like a charm) and oil it with clear "machine oil" (sometimes "sewing machine oil"). Wrap sharp tools in paper or plastic to grab and work them on their rotation axis a good 20 times or more. If you notice an amelioration feel free to repeat the whole process a few times. The difference won't be "night and day" but the process helps.
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Thanks Syem, i will try that :cheers:
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Wrap sharp tools in paper or plastic to grab and work them on their rotation axis a good 20 times or more.
So break it in like a Leatherman! :)
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Syem, on one forum somebody mentioned that ultrasonic is not good for fiber scales. I think oil or Ballistol are enough. :salute:
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Syem, on one forum somebody mentioned that ultrasonic is not good for fiber scales. I think oil or Ballistol are enough. :salute:
Ooh that's interesting (and worrisome) and certainly requires consideration!
Is it because of the vibrations or because of the extended submersion of the fiber in a liquid?
I've heard people using "professional" ultrasonic baths and leaving stuff in them for up to 12 hours...
I usually make 2 sessions of about 7 minutes and immediately and thoroughly dry the knife. I haven't cleaned many fiber knives but I don't recall ever having issues.
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Ooh that's interesting (and worrisome) and certainly requires consideration!
Is it because of the vibrations or because of the extended submersion of the fiber in a liquid?
I've heard people using "professional" ultrasonic baths and leaving stuff in them for up to 12 hours...
I usually make 2 sessions of about 7 minutes and immediately and thoroughly dry the knife. I haven't cleaned many fiber knives but I don't recall ever having issues.
Yes, better way to study this question is to try ultrasonic bath for extremely dirty knife for a long time with checking it ;)
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While the springs on my 1942 Elsener are still among the strongest of any knife (SAK or traditional) in my collection, it would rip my fingernails apart (and I cut them short) before cleaning and oiling. After that, of course, they were still strong, but it never gave me any more trouble. I used Birchwood Casey gun oil for lube and just plain Palmolive to clean. The amazing thing is that despite 77 years of abuse, the springs still remain that strong. The wear suggests it wasn't even oiled that much if at all.
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There was another question like this recently
The suggestion was to put some sort of grinding paste into the joint and work it around a bit
Clean out then oil ???