Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => Edged Tools => Topic started by: kwakster on December 13, 2009, 05:36:53 PM
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Some time ago i started sharpening knives with a pair of 8 inch Paper Wheels coming from this company: http://users.ameritech.net/knives/paper.htm after reading about them in the Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment subforum on Bladeforums.com.
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PaperWheelsset-1.jpg)
Until a little over a year i had never even heard about this sharpening system, but the good reviews reeled me in.
Now i already had quite a bit of experience sharpening all kinds of knives as well as scissors professionally with various machines, and i think the Paper Wheels are reasonably priced for what they have to offer, and it's also quite easy to learn how to work with them.
Already the second knife that i ever sharpened with the Paper Wheels became hairwhittling sharp (or level 4 as i call it, the others are level 1: shaving on skin level along the growth, level 2: shaving on skin level against the growth, and level 3: shaving above skinlevel or treetopping)
The sharpening wheel is coated with a layer of 180 grit SiC powder which is in turn coated with hard wax, and the polishing wheel isn't coated at all; with the system comes a little white block of white aluminium oxide powder (jewellers rouge) which you hold to the turning wheel for just a second before polishing.
Included is also an amount of wax (which i use very sparingly) and an amount of 180 grit SiC powder, to recoat the sharpening wheel when necessary (normally after dozens of knives)
Next to the Paper Wheels you also need a benchgrinder, but you can find these quite cheap at various stores.
I use an old Creusen brand that turns at 3000 rpm.
(In the pictures you can see the machine on the back which is how i use it, the sharpening wheel is on the right and the polishing wheel sits on the left.)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PaperWheelsopCreusen-2.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PaperWheelsopCreusen-3.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PaperWheelsopCreusen-4.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PaperWheelsopCreusen-6.jpg)
Now many people will think: "sharpening knives on some fast turning wheels, will that not damage the heat treat of my blade ? "
Not with the Paper Wheels, as each wheel has a built in cooling system: the sharpening wheel uses wax which melts from the friction of sharpening, and the polishing wheel uses slits which act like a strong fan and create a stream of cold air.
Both ways help to keep the edge temperature below critical limits.
Another thing while sharpening & polishing is to make deliberate and continuous passes starting near the ricasso of the blade and to proceed until the tip of the blade is in the center of the wheel surface: then take the tip off of the wheel.
Do not let the tip slip of the wheel surface or you will round it.
Another thing: In spite of the cooling systems; If you work too slow or stay in one place too long the edge will still get hotter quickly, so avoid that.
Also good to know is that the industrial strength cardboard from which the wheels are made has a minute amount of "give" during sharpening, as they are not solid like stone wheels.
This will in effect create an ever so slight convexing of your new edge, something that you can vary more or less by applying more or less pressure during sharpening.
I have been working with the Paper Wheels for several months now, and this is my resume;
Plus:
- The speed.
In most cases (with normally blunted edges without deep nicks) you will have a new edge on your knife in no time.
A standard 10 inch kitchen knife can be done in about 10 minutes flat.
(I personally take my time for the polishing process because i want my edges to look good also, but it can be done fast as well.)
- The system excels in beautifully polished narrow edges
Minus:
- For serious reprofiling and/or removing deep nicks use a belt grinder or coarse diamond stones, as for this the 180 grit SiC powder isn't coarse enough.
- On both wheels staying too long in one place can gouge the steel on your blade.
I can't stress this enough: when sharpening and/or polishing: use a deliberate and continuous movement.
For me this works best by (while standing); "freezing" my arms and upper body and make the turn from my waist, as if you were a machine.
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Fantastic post, thanks so much for the info. :tu: I'm going to try it out and see what I can do. Maybe I can sharpen my Douk-Douk with it! :rofl: :rofl:
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You'll never use it enough to blunt it. :D
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Thanks for posting this Kwakster. The edge you put on some of your knives are amazing. Good to see how you do it.
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Fascinating stuff mate :tu:
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This is a pretty interesting read :tu:
Then again... I can barely sharpen with a Lansky.... :-\
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(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PaperWheelsset-1.jpg)
Thanks for the informative writeup and pics, kwakster. Looks like you get great results with this system.
"Leave the Stone Age Behind" - great slogan!
I'd be afraid of burning the temper out of my blades.
Plus, I doubt if I could hold to a constant angle while moving the blade across the wheel.
An idiot proof system like the Lansky is better for me. ;>
.
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Back from the dead.....
You really have to not pay attention to detemper your blades with the wheels. I've sharpened a few knives where the edges were really acute. After about 2-3 passes per side the edges were still nowhere near hot enough to detemper them. I agree with Kwakster in that serious re-profiling should be done on another device. All in all I can't get over the results I get with the wheels. After sharpening my Boker Trance on the wheels I used it to cut up about 10-15 cardboard boxes. It still shaves hair, though it really snags it more than shaves it. Still, that's better than any edge I got before using the wheels, and that's with AUS8 steel. Kwakster, have you contacted Richard J over at Bladeforums for any tips/tricks/etc?
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No, i haven't contacted Richard J from Bladeforums; i don't feel the need since i've already read the complete Paper Wheels thread there and i'm already quite satisfied with the edges i get from my set of Wheels; practically every edge created on the wheels can whittle hair and looks good as well.
Besides sharpening my own knives with the Wheels i also sharpen knives for a few chefs & restaurants in my hometown, and the feedback i get on those polished Paper Wheels edges is without exception very good.
Especially for knives which do almost all of the cutting on wooden or polypropylene boards the edge needs to be as strong as possible, and polishing really helps with that.
Only on one or two smaller knives some chefs want a coarser edge since that will cut stringy stuff better than a polished one.
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Anyone still using this system? I'm thinking of giving it a serious try now. :tu: Do you think this system will work for SAK's?
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Anyone still using this system? I'm thinking of giving it a serious try now. :tu: Do you think this system will work for SAK's?
The Paper Wheels work perfectly for SAK's, it's even the only way i sharpen mine.
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Anyone still using this system? I'm thinking of giving it a serious try now. :tu: Do you think this system will work for SAK's?
The Paper Wheels work perfectly for SAK's, it's even the only way i sharpen mine.
Thanks! :cheers:
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Amici,
I just had a fellow sharpen a Camillus USAF Pilots knife with a V edge using paper wheels that I recently acquired. Now is not only razor sharp, but is also easy to touch up using a ceramic rod compared to the abomination of an edge that these knives would leave the factory with.
Cheers,
Serge
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This is my vintage Puma 6383 Buddy from 1972 as it was before sharpening.
The factory edge was very obtuse and couldn't cut anything well.
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972002.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972003.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972007.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972017.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972019.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972022.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972028.jpg)
Specs:
Overall length: 9.6 inch (24,3 cm)
Blade length: 4.8 inch (12,2 cm)
Blade thickness: 3,1 mm
Steel: New Stainless Super Keen Cutting Steel
Hardness: 57-59 HRC
Handle material: Sambar Stag
This is the knife after sharpening on my set of Paper Wheels.
On this edge burr removal & semi-polishing was still done with the use of white aluminium oxide, nowadays i use diamond paste instead.
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddysnede001.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddysnede004.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddysnede005.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddysnede006.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddysnede007.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddysnede008.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddysnede009.jpg)
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Since i started working with Paper Wheels back in 2009 i've experimented with quite a few regritting methods, and the recipe below is what has been working best & longest for me:
1 - First remove all traces of the old wax layer.
For this i use a steel wire brush on the spinning Wheel until most is gone, then i shut the machine down and remove the last remnants with an old rag & brake cleaner.
2 - Then remove all traces of grit & glue until you get to the bare cardboard surface.
For this i use an old coarse silicon carbide stone first and a semi-coarse diamond stone second, but coarse sandpaper on a piece of wood also works well.
3 - Take a good quality water resistant wood glue and coat the bare cardboard surface evenly.
I just use a clean finger while turning the Wheel with my other hand.
Let dry at least overnight.
4 - The next day apply a new and just a little thicker layer of the same glue, and immediately after coat the surface with the grit.
For this i put a thick layer of grit in a small rectangle box or a deep plastic lid from a jar and gently push the surface of the wheel in it, evenly and all the way around.
Put the wheel back on the machine and let dry at least overnight.
5 - The next day run the machine with the wheel for just a few seconds so any loose grit particles fly off.
I also hold my diamond stone shortly to the sides of the Wheel to remove grit particles that stick out there.
Stop the wheel and coat the gritted surface with a very thin & even layer of the same wood glue, so thin you can still feel the grit under your fingertips when you're done.
Let it dry at least overnight.
6 - The next day run the machine and hold an old junk knife a few seconds to the wheel (still without the wax), as this will lay bare the highest points of the grit particles.
Now you can put some wax on the surface (don't overdo it) and sharpen away.
As you can see the process takes some time, but to me it's worth it.
The triple layer of glue makes for a much stronger bond of the SiC grit to the cardboard surface compared to just one layer of glue, and each grit particle is also held better in the glue since it's almost completely encapsulated by it, while the glue itself will wear away easily during sharpening.
This method provides me with a grit Wheel that works perfectly and also lasts longer between regrittings.
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Thaz's quite a process. Thanks for a step by step guide. Your sharpening jobs are always amazing. :hatsoff:
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This is my vintage Puma 6383 Buddy from 1972 as it was before sharpening.
The factory edge was very obtuse and couldn't cut anything well.
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972007.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972017.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972019.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/PumaBuddy1972022.jpg)
Specs:
Overall length: 9.6 inch (24,3 cm)
Blade length: 4.8 inch (12,2 cm)
Blade thickness: 3,1 mm
Steel: New Stainless Super Keen Cutting Steel
Hardness: 57-59 HRC
Handle material: Sambar Stag
Great post and the knife is gorgeous!!!!
:tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:
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Spyderco Southard with CTS-204P blade, which has been in use for a few years now with a Dutch scout leader.
It has already been sharpened several times by him on stones, plus two times by me on Paper Wheels (once up to 6 micron diamond compound, and once up to 15 micron diamond, the latter performing noticeably longer for the owner)
This time the knife was reprofiled from about 30 degrees inclusive to 25 degrees inclusive with a standard Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC, then deburred with a second Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
This produces a polished semi-coarse edge with an aggressive bite, as the knife is going to be used to cut a lot of 10 mm polyprop rope in the coming weeks.
You can click the pics 2 x for a bit more detail.
(http://s15.postimg.org/st4wzm9qv/GEDC7713.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/st4wzm9qv/)(http://s15.postimg.org/t4mdcdq6v/GEDC7714.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/t4mdcdq6v/)
(http://s24.postimg.org/4yb66x8j5/GEDC7715.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4yb66x8j5/)(http://s24.postimg.org/965yfo9yp/GEDC7716.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/965yfo9yp/)
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A Strider SMF with S110V blade from a Dutch forum member.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the old edge measured +/- 40 degrees inclusive from the heel to half an inch before the tip where it changed into 45 degrees inclusive.
The owner uses this knife mostly to cut various kinds of green wood & twigs in horticulture, and had already tried his hand at reprofiling the edge himself with a DMT Diafold.
Together we came to the conclusion that the edge could do with a full reprofiling, as well as with a finer edge finish to better suit his specific purposes.
BTW: the owner also contacted Duane Dwyer by mail, among other things to ask him about the hardness of this S110V blade, and according to Duane it measures 61 HRC.
This was the knife before sharpening:
(http://s1.postimg.org/brczdd90b/GEDC7736.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/brczdd90b/)(http://s1.postimg.org/sp7elgt0b/GEDC7739.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sp7elgt0b/)
(http://s1.postimg.org/fp092rvtn/GEDC7741.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/fp092rvtn/)(http://s1.postimg.org/3kkzlsixn/GEDC7743.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3kkzlsixn/)
(http://s4.postimg.org/gjcouoly1/GEDC7745.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gjcouoly1/)(http://s14.postimg.org/nf7z3jue5/GEDC7751.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/nf7z3jue5/)
After reprofiling & sharpening.
The new edge angle came out at +/- 32 degrees inclusive along the entire edge, and it can treetop armhair and slice single ply toilet paper.
Probably due to having the flu at the moment my hands didn't do exactly what i wanted them to do, and as a result i didn't manage to get both bevels completely symmetrical.
Grit progression: a Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC for reprofiling, a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound for refining, and a third Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound for removing the tiny burr.
(http://s16.postimg.org/spk21nl01/GEDC7757.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/spk21nl01/)(http://s16.postimg.org/ifmozj1g1/GEDC7760.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ifmozj1g1/)
(http://s12.postimg.org/ukx3qerjt/GEDC7772.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ukx3qerjt/)(http://s12.postimg.org/pas4z47ax/GEDC7773.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pas4z47ax/)
(http://s14.postimg.org/byj6mjmot/GEDC7774.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/byj6mjmot/)(http://s14.postimg.org/gvwr7nonx/GEDC7777.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gvwr7nonx/)
(http://s9.postimg.org/599xlw4rv/GEDC7779.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/599xlw4rv/)
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The factory edge of this Spyderco PM2 in S110V steel was barely shaving armhair on skinlevel, and according to my Tormek WM200 the edge angle was near 35 degrees inclusive.
The old apex was removed by cutting several times straight into a silicon carbide stone, and then i used 4 different Paper Wheels coated with diamond compounds (15, 6, 3, and 1 micron) to create & refine the new edge.
Normally i don't take high carbide steel types this far, but in this case i wanted to see how the S110V steel would do.
The new & ever so slightly convex edge measures a hair below 30 degrees inclusive, and can easily whittle a normal chest hair towards the point along the entire edge.
Thinner ones will sever immediately upon touching.
My cheap camera is not really able to show full details, but at least it gives some impression.
(http://s4.postimg.org/4896emtk9/GEDC8804.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4896emtk9/)(http://s4.postimg.org/w39ip8ppl/GEDC8805.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/w39ip8ppl/)
(http://s4.postimg.org/futafrgvd/GEDC8806.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/futafrgvd/)(http://s4.postimg.org/545nu338p/GEDC8808.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/545nu338p/)
(http://s4.postimg.org/3nu5by0bt/GEDC8814.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3nu5by0bt/)(http://s4.postimg.org/pe2z984dl/GEDC8817.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pe2z984dl/)
(http://s4.postimg.org/5pz83xnop/GEDC8818.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5pz83xnop/)(http://s4.postimg.org/40q4vv7zd/GEDC8819.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/40q4vv7zd/)
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A Belgian member of the Dutch forum who's also into sharpening sent me a USB-camera as a gift, and although i still have lots to learn about what it can do i managed to take a couple of pics of the current edge on the PM2 in S110V steel:
(http://s3.postimg.org/8tokbhpj3/Still0019.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8tokbhpj3/)(http://s14.postimg.org/4oqtoe6bx/Still0023.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4oqtoe6bx/)
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Robert,
Whenever I see a thread about sharpening, I'm delighted to see you are the author of it.
I always enjoy seeing your superb work on various blades. You're very skilled! :D
Thanks for taking the time to share buddy :tu:
:cheers:
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I've been dreaming over the S110V PM2 but now I want one that's been sharpened by you. :dd:
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Robert,
Whenever I see a thread about sharpening, I'm delighted to see you are the author of it.
I always enjoy seeing your superb work on various blades. You're very skilled! :D
Thanks for taking the time to share buddy :tu:
:cheers:
Exactly how I feel!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Happy Holidays
I recently purchased a Razor Sharp Paper Wheel system and I am concerned that sharping blades several times will start to take too much metal off. I have used a Spyder Co Tri Angle for years with good success on carbon steel blades, but S30v and harder takes forever and does not have the "Super Scary Sharp" results. I have quite a collection of folders/fixed knives and most in my collection are for show only. My dozen or so of every day and hunting knives are always kept sharp and with the Tri Angle there is very little metal removed with sharping.
Could you use 220 or a finer grit instead of the 180 that comes with the wheels and would it be effective?
I have read the information from kwakster and saw the pictures and he surely has the gift to put a scary sharp edge on a knife blade. I think the wheel system would be good to get an edge on a hard to sharpen blade and then minor touch ups with the Tri Angle. Nothing bothers me more that blade that is not sharper than a razor.
Thanks
Lenbo
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The slotted wheel with compound makes for a very quick touch-up with minimal metal removal. No need to waste time with other methods. There is absolutely no need to use the grit wheel every time. Do you start your stone sharpening on the coarse stone when you just wish to touch-up a blade? Why would you on the wheels?
The 180 grit is used to cut quickly, allowing one to develop a burr rapidly with minimal heat buildup. A finer grit would require more time and result in greater heat buildup. The amount of metal that needs to be removed to create a burr does not change, regardless of the sharpening method. Your skill is the determining factor.
Don't over think this...
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@Lenbo: regarding sharpening knives in S30V and other high vanadium carbide steels:
To get the most out of high vanadium carbide steels you need abrasives that are able to cut & shape the carbides themselves, which in commonly available materials leaves only CBN and diamond.
For both maximum sharpness & edge retention you want a row of actually shaped & sharpened carbides in your edge, not just a row of whole carbides (which will do for coarser edge types, but they simply work better when sharp.)
Other abrasive media like chromium oxide, aluminum oxide and silicon carbide will most certainly plough through the matrix and push the vanadium carbides out of the way, but due to their lack in hardness they are physically unable to refine those carbides.
Take a look at the bottom of this page for a list of materials and their Knoop hardness:
https://www.tedpella.com/Material-Sciences_html/Abrasive_Grit_Grading_Systems.htm
What works for me when i want a (semi-) coarse edge on S110V steel and the like is to use silicon carbide (220 grit Paper Wheel and/or 1000 grit Tormek Blackstone) to create the bevels, then jump to a fine diamond compound (1 micron on a Paper Wheel) to remove the burr.
This provides me with the edge irregularities (or teeth if you want) for that coveted slicing aggression, and which also have actual sharpened vanadium carbides in the apex.
For a more polished edge on S110V steel and the like i refine the results of the silicon carbide with various diamond compounds (in my case 15, 6, 3, and 1 micron on dedicated Paper Wheels)
For some time now i've also been experimenting with a Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond as a substitute for the 220 grit silicon carbide grit Paper Wheel, and although i still need to learn more about it, so far i like the results i'm getting with it.
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16VTGIDAVE and KWAKSTER
Thanks a million for you quick response and information. I figured that after using the gtrit wheel the slotted wheel could be used for touch ups. I saw a utube really knocking the wheel system and how it just grinds the blade down, but figured that they were over using it.
I Re-dressed my paper wheel by doing what KAWAKSETER did in his thread July 09,2014 and probably didn't do it correct because it didn't seem to work. Tried sharping a Benchmade 154CM folder and could not even get a burr (probably too much glue). By the way my father in law could never get an edge on this 154cm blade before. I figured I would try the "Wheel".
I just went back and redressed the grit wheel again with only one layer of glue and grit. Will wait for it to dry and start over. I imagine that there is a learning curve with this system and free hand on the wheels. I just need to practice for the results I hope to achieve. When I get a little more experienced with this system I would like to try the diamond compounds.
Thanks much
LenBo
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The Manix 2 lightweight in S110V is a superb knife, and it exemplifies Spyderco's motto "simplify and add lightness".
The model only seems to have two possible disadvantages: it takes up quite a bit of real estate in your pocket, and some people can't seem to get over the fact that it has an ultra lightweight plastic handle, which to them makes the knife feel cheap and not worth the asking price.
But after providing them with some links to real life tests with this knife some of them change their minds :-)
I do hope however that the factory edges get some more attention in the future, as i already had to resharpen 5 pcs of this model that couldn't even slice copy paper.
Upon inspection all these edges had visible burr remains and edge angles measured around 35 degrees inclusive.
This is one of them with it's new bling & bite edge, as i call them: reprofiled to +/- 30 degrees inclusive with 230 grit diamond powder on a Rubber Wheel, refined with 15 micron diamond compound on a Paper Wheel, and deburred with 0,25 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel.
To me the shiny bevels are actually a side effect, as it's the clean cutting of the large amount of vanadium carbides that i'm after.
(http://s28.postimg.org/w0f9yb0p5/GEDC8994.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/w0f9yb0p5/)(http://s28.postimg.org/78fnr2jih/GEDC8996.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/78fnr2jih/)
(http://s28.postimg.org/5oabsob49/GEDC8998.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5oabsob49/)(http://s28.postimg.org/4ok0wyvyh/GEDC9000.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4ok0wyvyh/)
(http://s28.postimg.org/l9mlfigqx/GEDC9001.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/l9mlfigqx/)(http://s28.postimg.org/501h9qceh/GEDC9003.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/501h9qceh/)
(http://s28.postimg.org/67ff1y2ix/GEDC9006.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/67ff1y2ix/)(http://s28.postimg.org/oo9tsrih5/GEDC9008.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/oo9tsrih5/)
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This second hand Spyderco Military in CPM-D2 steel was one of the first knives i ever sharpened on my standard set of Paper Wheels back in 2009.
It had some blade play (fixed it), some discoloration on the blade (left that) and it wasn't quite sharp (fixed that with the Wheels)
Was part of my edc for several years.
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2007.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2008.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2015.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2014.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2016.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2017.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2020.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2021.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitaryCPM-D2022.jpg)
(http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt175/kwackster/SpydercoMilitary005.jpg)
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Kwakster you are an extremist.
I've always said,"you can learn from an extremist".LOL
Thanks for sharing all of this information.
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Well, that depends on your point of view, :D
Sharing info is what forums are all about, and useful tools with a great price to performance ratio like these Paper Wheels deserve to be introduced to a larger audience.
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Did these chisel ground edges a a few years ago with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and then stropped the burr on the other side off on hard leather with some 1 micron diamond compound.
Both knives were quite blunt, one even more than the other.
The knives are owned by two Dutch Special Forces guys who used & sharpened them while on tour in Afghanistan, and they wanted the new edges to have a little bling.
(http://s33.postimg.org/ywo6l1q9n/CRKT_Chisel_edges_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ywo6l1q9n/)(http://s33.postimg.org/tmj7tr60r/CRKT_Chisel_edges_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/tmj7tr60r/)(http://s33.postimg.org/u9i4ja2wr/CRKT_Chisel_edges_3.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/u9i4ja2wr/)
(http://s33.postimg.org/4ixjw0j0b/CRKT_Chisel_edges_4.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4ixjw0j0b/)(http://s33.postimg.org/853d8npdn/CRKT_Chisel_edges_5.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/853d8npdn/)(http://s33.postimg.org/sf5a1jfwb/CRKT_Chisel_edges_6.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sf5a1jfwb/)
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Below you see 3 different viewing angles of the edge i recently put on a brand new Sebenza 25 (which had a subpar factory edge)
The owner of the knife took the pictures with a very expensive Leica camera to capture the different looks this edge type can have when seen from different angles.
For obvious reasons i named this a bling & bite finish, and it performs very well on especially high (vanadium) carbide steels.
I first reprofiled the factory edge from 35 degrees inclusive to 30 degrees inclusive with a Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, then refined it with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and lastly removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
The new and ever so slightly convex edge could treetop the hair on the back of my hand (even whittle it a bit) and easily slice single ply toilet paper.
And this was after i tested the edge with a few firm cuts into the edge of a piece of laminated desktop.
(http://kostverlorenvaart.nl/temp/knives/sebenza25snede-04L1000335.jpg)
(http://kostverlorenvaart.nl/temp/knives/sebenza25snede-05L1000343.jpg)
(http://kostverlorenvaart.nl/temp/knives/sebenza25snede06L1000439.jpg)
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This just came in, and it should be more than enough to coat both a Paper Wheel as well as a Rubber Wheel using the 3-step process.
According to my digital scale it weighs +/- 40 grams.
(http://s4.postimg.org/btfvr14zd/GEDC9555.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/btfvr14zd/)
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Awesome Kwakster :cheers: Can't wait to see those results :o
:like:
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@ Poncho65: when i have some results with those Wheels i will post them here as well, :)
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I own several vintage Gerbers in M2 steel, both outdoor & kitchen models, and this Durendal slicer model from the '60's does duty in our kitchen.
Opening all kinds of paper & plastic food packages, slicing bags with espresso beans, cutting up larger fruits like melons & pineapples, slicing bread loafs and hamburger buns without crumbling, cutting sausages, etc.
Not every day, but at least several times a week.
I bought this Gerber about 2 years ago on E-Bay completely blunt, so i reprofiled & sharpened it with a SiC grit Paper Wheel, then refined the edge with 15 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel, and then again with 6 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel.
The tiny burr was removed with a fourth Paper Wheel coated with 0,25 micron diamond compound.
The idea was to get something of a semi-polish that would protect the exposed M2 edge better against corrosion issues during kitchen use, while still having some degree of bite.
The knife was then used for about 2 years in our kitchen, and when not in use stored on a magnet strip on our kitchen wall.
After those 2 years the edge only had a few very minor dings/flat spots in it (in the tiny belly area), but it could still shave the hair on the back of my hand on skin level quite well with about 90-95 % of the edge.
When cutting tomatoes however the edge tended to slide a bit over the skin before it started to cut.
The main reason for this kind of edgeholding is of course the fact that most of the edge on a slicer like this never touches a cutting board, only the belly area does, but the M2 steel performed quite admirably in my book.
A few weeks ago i resharpened the edge, this time only with 15 micron diamond compound, then deburred with 0,25 micron diamond compound, as i want to try the knife with some more bite.
Will have to find out if there will be corrosion issues or not.
So far i've only used it on food packaging (both paper & plastic, no fruit or other things yet), but here are a few pics how the knife & edge look now.
The edge feels sticky and is still treetopping sharp.
(http://s3.postimg.org/w8jtnensf/GEDC9576.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/w8jtnensf/)(http://s3.postimg.org/cj64op59r/GEDC9579.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/cj64op59r/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/3zmqqxwxb/GEDC9580.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3zmqqxwxb/)(http://s3.postimg.org/6ag7hdib3/GEDC9582.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6ag7hdib3/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/j34bhatwv/GEDC9584.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/j34bhatwv/)(http://s3.postimg.org/i4sjsr5yn/GEDC9586.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/i4sjsr5yn/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/mx2d470mn/GEDC9587.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/mx2d470mn/)(http://s3.postimg.org/svg6efjlb/GEDC9588.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/svg6efjlb/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/rufxpb2lr/GEDC9590.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/rufxpb2lr/)(http://s3.postimg.org/703l7h88f/GEDC9591.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/703l7h88f/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/bd6q3n6cv/GEDC9592.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/bd6q3n6cv/)(http://s3.postimg.org/3uizh9pm7/GEDC9595.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3uizh9pm7/)
Specs:
Blade steel: hard chromed M2 steel
Hardness: 60-62 HRC
Handle material: cast on aluminum, chromed.
Overall length: 29,5 cm
Blade length: 16,5 cm
Blade thickness: 1,36 mm in front of the handle tapering to 0,84 mm close to the point
Thickness behind the edge: 0,5 mm
Edge angle: +/- 30 degrees inclusive, slightly convex
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Did this user Spyderco PM2 in S30V steel for a customer who had seen pictures online of another PM2 in S110V steel i did earlier, and which are also somewhere in this thread.
The man wanted the exact same full mirror edge he had seen on the other knife, it had to be 30 degrees inclusive, and it also had to have a guaranteed hair whittling sharpness.
Of course i told him that this S30V is not the best steel for a full mirror edge, but it was what he wanted, :)
The old edge had a few flat spots and a bit of a rounded point from use, but nothing serious.
Total time i spent on this knife was one hour, in a succession of Paper Wheels with 15, 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond compound.
As a comparison: the same full mirror edge on that PM2 in S110V steel the man saw online took me two hours.
Most of this time is going into the many visual checks i do in between with my Victorinox loupe under bright light, not into the actual sharpening.
These are the quick pics i also sent to the customer, and they can be clicked twice for a bit more detail.
The owner was satisfied btw.
(https://s11.postimg.org/4vb52zixr/GEDC9652.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4vb52zixr/)(https://s11.postimg.org/td38qvli7/GEDC9654.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/td38qvli7/)
(https://s11.postimg.org/3rr0r0yan/GEDC9651.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3rr0r0yan/)(https://s11.postimg.org/o2y9zl19b/GEDC9655.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/o2y9zl19b/)
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Those are some very nice and shiny edges Kwakster :o :like: :like: :like:
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Hinderer XM-18 Slicer grind in S35VN steel.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the factory edge angle measured between 45 and 50 degrees inclusive, while the thickness of the steel just behind that edge went from 0.7 mm at the heel to 0.6 mm at the tip.
The knife is going to be used as a hunting folder, and the owner had 2 wishes: if possible no visually wide bevels, plus he wanted to be able to maintain the new edge on a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
Before sharpening:
(http://s13.postimg.org/ig0r7fs5f/GEDC7439.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ig0r7fs5f/)(http://s13.postimg.org/soomziqtf/GEDC7440.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/soomziqtf/)
(http://s13.postimg.org/sxm7pg3lv/GEDC7442.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sxm7pg3lv/)(http://s13.postimg.org/lwy7wo1tv/GEDC7443.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lwy7wo1tv/)
(http://s13.postimg.org/fs6pjc9qb/GEDC7445.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/fs6pjc9qb/)(http://s13.postimg.org/uqp4drosj/GEDC7446.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/uqp4drosj/)
After sharpening.
Edge reprofiled to an almost exact 35 degrees inclusive with a Paper Wheel coated with 220 grit SiC, after which the burr was removed with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
The new edge is what i would call sticky sharp.
(http://s9.postimg.org/xndularjf/GEDC7450.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xndularjf/)(http://s9.postimg.org/q64n6320b/GEDC7451.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/q64n6320b/)
(http://s9.postimg.org/qt3jvlywb/GEDC7452.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/qt3jvlywb/)(http://s9.postimg.org/55ell5yi3/GEDC7454.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/55ell5yi3/)
(http://s9.postimg.org/6hwan1vxn/GEDC7457.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6hwan1vxn/)(http://s9.postimg.org/7ciu933sb/GEDC7460.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7ciu933sb/)
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This special version of the Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in CPM-M4 steel & carbon fiber is in use with a Dutch knife forum member.
A small fraction of the tip had broken off and the apex sustained some damage (see pic 3)
This is how the knife looked before sharpening.
You can click 2 X on each pic for more detail.
(https://s16.postimg.org/a8kcge3tt/GEDC0462.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/a8kcge3tt/)(https://s16.postimg.org/ydl1y3o4h/GEDC0464.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ydl1y3o4h/)(https://s16.postimg.org/rbrppn9wh/GEDC0469.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/rbrppn9wh/)
(https://s16.postimg.org/7v7034esh/GEDC0471.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7v7034esh/)(https://s16.postimg.org/uxxj2ag9t/GEDC0473.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/uxxj2ag9t/)(https://s16.postimg.org/pcb3y8fkx/GEDC0477.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pcb3y8fkx/)
After sharpening.
First i ground the old apex flat on the Tormek Blackstone until all damage in the apex was gone & there was a new point.
Then i made a new edge with 15 micron diamond compound on a Paper Wheel, which was then refined with 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond compound on dedicated Paper Wheels to a full mirror.
The new edge measures 30 degrees inclusive and is hairwhittling sharp.
You can click 2 X on each pic for more detail.
(https://s22.postimg.org/w4bq006x9/GEDC0607.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/w4bq006x9/)(https://s22.postimg.org/s6ogalk3x/GEDC0606.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/s6ogalk3x/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/vh87wqknh/GEDC0599.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vh87wqknh/)(https://s22.postimg.org/qb1nzfv9p/GEDC0603.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qb1nzfv9p/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/i5o7f0wel/GEDC0613.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/i5o7f0wel/)(https://s22.postimg.org/cejscp3bh/GEDC0590.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/cejscp3bh/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/ouuqv1hql/GEDC0612.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ouuqv1hql/)(https://s22.postimg.org/sjkfuirrh/GEDC0616.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/sjkfuirrh/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/nuv97unt9/GEDC0594.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nuv97unt9/)(https://s22.postimg.org/uzd2gvv2l/GEDC0595.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/uzd2gvv2l/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/p630gbjf1/GEDC0591.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/p630gbjf1/)
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:like: :like: :like:
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Ditto ^
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Nice!
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Dustar Model 1 Arad '67 Commemorative combat knife from a collector.
The factory "edge" was very rough and also still had a burr so thick that i could lift the entire knife from the table by hooking it with my finger nail.
Edge angle was +/- 45 degrees inclusive which i left intact as the customer did not want wider bevels.
After grinding the apex flat on the Tormek Blackstone the edge was resharpened on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound then deburred with a second Paper Wheel with 3 micron diamond compound, an the new edge can just treetop the hairs on the back of my hand.
Probably the most wear resistant D2 steel i have sharpened so far.
(https://s7.postimg.org/w3q7jc9rb/GEDC1340.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/w3q7jc9rb/)(https://s7.postimg.org/8cqu181uf/GEDC1341.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8cqu181uf/)
(https://s7.postimg.org/wt8zvezxj/GEDC1336.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/wt8zvezxj/)(https://s7.postimg.org/55wahlwtz/GEDC1337.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/55wahlwtz/)
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Great pictures K :tu:
Looks perfect from where I'm sitting :salute:
:cheers:
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This vintage Al Mar Applegate Fairbairn dagger from a display collection had factory edges which were rather coarse, had a few flat spots, and a flattened point.
Since the "R" from Rex Applegate's signature was already quite close to the +/- 50 degrees inclusive factory edge i chose not to reprofile but instead just polish the existing bevels a bit with successively 15.0 micron, 3.0 micron, and 1.0 micron diamond compound on dedicated Paper Wheels.
Both new edges can shave the hair on the back of my hand on skin level.
( click each pic 2 x for a bit more detail)
(https://s33.postimg.org/5xnsfqxwb/GEDC1439.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5xnsfqxwb/)(https://s33.postimg.org/blu36ocjf/GEDC1442.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/blu36ocjf/)
(https://s33.postimg.org/z022ikrvv/GEDC1443.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/z022ikrvv/)(https://s33.postimg.org/j1tcsgsiz/GEDC1444.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/j1tcsgsiz/)
(https://s33.postimg.org/p2r1pgujv/GEDC1437.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/p2r1pgujv/)(https://s33.postimg.org/f5g0we7ij/GEDC1438.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f5g0we7ij/)
(https://s33.postimg.org/blu36oryz/GEDC1447.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/blu36oryz/)(https://s33.postimg.org/nnph0pbgb/GEDC1432.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nnph0pbgb/)
(https://s33.postimg.org/9u14bodq3/GEDC1431.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/9u14bodq3/)(https://s33.postimg.org/od89d1ouj/GEDC1433.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/od89d1ouj/)
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Great pictures K :tu:
Looks perfect from where I'm sitting :salute:
:cheers:
This again :salute:
Is it rude to quote myself? :think:
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Absolutely not, and thanks, :D
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Thank you K, :salute:
Always interesting stuff and stunning pictures :tu:
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Another PM2 in S110V.
The new edge was done on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, and then refined with 6.0 micron, 3.0 micron, and 1.0 micron diamond compound, all on dedicated Paper Wheels.
The apex is keen enough to whittle several curls in a row on one of my chest hairs while holding the hair at the root end only.
You can click each pic 2 X for a bit more detail.
(http://s32.postimg.org/y510xd7tt/GEDC9343.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/y510xd7tt/)(http://s32.postimg.org/fn19qvffl/GEDC9344.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/fn19qvffl/)
(http://s32.postimg.org/hzw8l6axt/GEDC9357.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/hzw8l6axt/)(http://s32.postimg.org/s1a9lz2sh/GEDC9360.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/s1a9lz2sh/)
(http://s32.postimg.org/szqmo9g4h/GEDC9363.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/szqmo9g4h/)(http://s32.postimg.org/s5432889t/GEDC9370.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/s5432889t/)
(http://s32.postimg.org/wywkf72ld/GEDC9334.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/wywkf72ld/)(http://s32.postimg.org/4y4zramsh/GEDC9330.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4y4zramsh/)(http://s32.postimg.org/7yhr1025d/GEDC9338.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7yhr1025d/)
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The owner of this Maxamet PM2 had given his knife a forced patina treatment, and besides coming out a bit uneven the acid had also completely eaten away the factory apex as well as the very tip of the blade.
To say that the knife was completely blunt would have been an understatement.
The request was to give the knife a new toothy edge with a lot of bite while making it as sharp as possible.
(You can click each pic 2 X for a bit more detail)
Before sharpening:
(https://s18.postimg.org/lmpcfrd51/GEDC1751.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lmpcfrd51/)(https://s18.postimg.org/s0efj2n6t/GEDC1756.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/s0efj2n6t/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/cex3z563p/GEDC1752.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/cex3z563p/)(https://s18.postimg.org/85sdwxsjp/GEDC1757.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/85sdwxsjp/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/juwdkvon9/GEDC1753.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/juwdkvon9/)(https://s18.postimg.org/7g9lkjpf9/GEDC1758.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7g9lkjpf9/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/azvjadfad/GEDC1754.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/azvjadfad/)(https://s18.postimg.org/f909cjatx/GEDC1759.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f909cjatx/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/6dzf211h1/GEDC1755.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6dzf211h1/)(https://s18.postimg.org/bpebmrq4l/GEDC1760.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bpebmrq4l/)
After sharpening
Flattened the acid damaged "apex" some more on a 3000 grit diamond plate so i could start with fresh steel, then made a new edge on a Rubber Wheel coated with +/- 230 grit diamond powder & wax, then deburred on a Paper Wheel with 1.0 micron diamond paste & oil.
The new edge is ever so slightly convex, the new apex fits almost exactly in the 30 degree inclusive slot of my Tormek WM200 Angle Master, plus it can whittle one of my chest hairs at about 5.5 centimeters from the point of holding. (i don't own a BESS tester)
The somewhat "fuzzy" shoulders of the new edge show how deep the acid has eaten away into the sides of the blade in some area's.
(https://s18.postimg.org/3wnnutmqd/GEDC1761.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3wnnutmqd/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/ravn6rrt1/GEDC1762.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ravn6rrt1/)(https://s18.postimg.org/982kfkyj9/GEDC1767.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/982kfkyj9/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/ifusw7l05/GEDC1763.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ifusw7l05/)(https://s18.postimg.org/5bp8jkqed/GEDC1769.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5bp8jkqed/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/d4fwbj985/GEDC1765.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/d4fwbj985/)(https://s18.postimg.org/f909co8at/GEDC1771.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f909co8at/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/hqc0jwa6t/GEDC1766.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hqc0jwa6t/)(https://s18.postimg.org/q8lgo9r05/GEDC1772.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/q8lgo9r05/)
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Thank you K, :salute:
Always interesting stuff and stunning pictures :tu:
At risk of repeating myself here :imws:
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Right hand Takamura R2 Gyuto 210 mm from a local Chef, who got it as a birthday present from his wife.
The knife has already been used for two months in the commercial kitchen and it was time for it's first resharpening, which i did yesterday on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound and then deburred on a second Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
The idea was to make an edge that would do both slicing & pushcutting well, and also to remove as little steel as possible from the fine and thin R2/SG2 blade @ 63-64 HRC.
The new edge measures +/- 20 degrees inclusive and can whittle a chest hair from root-to-tip at about 4 centimeters from the point of holding, and after a few test cuts into a old piece of beechwood cutting board.
I took these pics with an old Ipad and actually wanted to erase them again as being not good enough until i enlarged the last picture twice.
At first i thought i saw small dirt spots on the new bevel, but those tiny white specks were actually the sliced off peaks of the micro-dot structure on the inside of the flimsy plastic blade protector sleeve.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/bg1d26nrr/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/bg1d26nrr/)(https://s15.postimg.cc/r1iomb7hj/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/r1iomb7hj/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/m2v67m3mv/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/m2v67m3mv/)(https://s15.postimg.cc/jljf0bwl3/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jljf0bwl3/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/s3sv4nno7/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/s3sv4nno7/)(https://s15.postimg.cc/76wmzzhxj/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/76wmzzhxj/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/n55cqazcn/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/n55cqazcn/)(https://s15.postimg.cc/jljf0iz7r/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jljf0iz7r/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/tvltzr1xz/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tvltzr1xz/)(https://s15.postimg.cc/vnesuo0qf/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vnesuo0qf/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/4023gm59z/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4023gm59z/)(https://s15.postimg.cc/nhwqwhpc7/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/nhwqwhpc7/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/cv2xqwh53/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cv2xqwh53/)(https://s15.postimg.cc/5rv2biwcn/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5rv2biwcn/)
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Thank you K, :salute:
Always interesting stuff and stunning pictures :tu:
At risk of repeating myself here :imws:
:imws:
:salute: :cheers:
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The owner of the Takamura R2 just sent me the link to this clip, in which he uses a grape to test the new edge:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ID9KZW0d9ss&feature=youtu.be
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:sa: :sa: :sa:
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That last slice through the grape.... ridiculous!
:salute:
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Update on the Takamura R2 210 Gyuto:
According to the Chef this edge done on Paper Wheels lasted him 2 months in his commercial kitchen, which was just as long as the factory edge had lasted him.
During that time he sometimes touched up the edge by stropping it on an MDF strop with 1.0 micron diamond compound until that no longer worked satisfactory (in the last week or so), after which he used a fine ceramic rod on it.
Differences with the factory edge were that the Paper Wheel edge had a slightly smaller edge angle (+/- 20 degrees inclusive instead of +/- 22,5 degrees inclusive), was finer polished, and had a higher sharpness.
We're still in the process of finetuning the edge to his specific requirements, and next time he brings in the knife it will probably get a little less refined edge to see if it's useful life can be prolonged a bit more.
In his kitchen the real edge killers are the mandatory plastic cutting boards which are very abrasive on knife edges, together with the almost unavoidable tiny sand particles which sometimes remain in the huge quantities of vegetables that need to be processed.
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:salute: :popcorn:
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Italian made A.G.A Campolin Maltese stiletto from a collector.
The knife was recently bought brand new from a foreign shop, but it came with quite a lot of blade play, a very rough ~55 degrees inclusive "edge" with a big burr still attached to it, and no point at all.
Also both sides of the blade aren't mirror images of each other, with a center ridge that is off a bit on one side.
Anyway, especially the lack of a point bothered the owner, the bad edge came in second, and fixing the blade play will probably be a job for another day.
This is how the knife looked before resharpening:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z0w88hdW/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0w88hdW)(https://i.postimg.cc/jWYPxxGF/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWYPxxGF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WfGyCsp/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WfGyCsp)(https://i.postimg.cc/XGV552NK/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGV552NK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2VB11pFR/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2VB11pFR)(https://i.postimg.cc/hXWfxCpJ/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXWfxCpJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bZkSBXsH/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZkSBXsH)(https://i.postimg.cc/MctTCzxR/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MctTCzxR)
And how the knife looks now.
While keeping the edge angle about the same so the bevels would not widen too much per owner's request, i resharpened the main edge completely and the bayonet grind only superficially to come to a sharp point with a 15 micron diamond compound Paper Wheel, then cleaned up the bevels a bit and removed the tiny burr with a 1.0 micron diamond compound Paper Wheel.
The edge angle again measures ~55 degrees inclusive, yet the new apex is just sharp enough to shave the hair on the back of my hand a bit on skin level.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YhgSp6Mt/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhgSp6Mt)(https://i.postimg.cc/8sx5QK8y/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8sx5QK8y)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LJ36PmJ7/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LJ36PmJ7)(https://i.postimg.cc/YGZp79P4/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YGZp79P4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GHjZJtjk/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHjZJtjk)(https://i.postimg.cc/Xpc0HQnB/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xpc0HQnB)
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Always good to see what you've been up to Kwakster :salute:
:cheers:
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The first owner of this small Sebenza apparently thought it a good idea to use the knife for sharpening practice in his new Wicked Edge.
The outcome made him sell the knife for a measly 150 Euro's to owner number two, who sent it to me with the request to tidy things up a bit and give it a bit of a shiny edge.
Below is what the knife looked like when i received it, still with it's very rough and partly unapexed "edge", and with an edge angle of ~40 degrees inclusive at the straight part of the edge, changing into ~45 degrees inclusive from belly to point.
(https://i.postimg.cc/875Xq5mG/GEDC2576.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/875Xq5mG)(https://i.postimg.cc/tYCH49NS/GEDC2581.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYCH49NS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3kcf7Ttv/GEDC2577.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kcf7Ttv)(https://i.postimg.cc/0MdL94M1/GEDC2582.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0MdL94M1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hzFCz0W4/GEDC2578.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzFCz0W4)(https://i.postimg.cc/Fkrwzx3d/GEDC2583.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fkrwzx3d)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gLmN4k2f/GEDC2579.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gLmN4k2f)(https://i.postimg.cc/MX5h4hJy/GEDC2584.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MX5h4hJy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bSgL5cGd/GEDC2580.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bSgL5cGd)(https://i.postimg.cc/6yQDNYBF/GEDC2585.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6yQDNYBF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XZ9PgPgB/GEDC2587.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZ9PgPgB)(https://i.postimg.cc/7fQjP06h/GEDC2586.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7fQjP06h)
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After reprofiling & sharpening on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then deburring and polishing it a bit with a second Paper Wheel coated with 1.0 micron diamond compound.
The new edge is a bit convex, and measures ~30 degrees inclusive on the straight part of the edge, changing into ~35 degrees inclusive from belly to point.
This to avoid widening the bevels there too much, as this blade is relatively thick behind the edge in that area.
The last picture shows a small facet at the heel which has an entirely different angle, so i could not remove it without making things worse.
Visually it's not perfect yet treetopping sharp, and the owner was happy.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yWLYRjRD/GEDC2593.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yWLYRjRD)(https://i.postimg.cc/B8CG0Zcj/GEDC2599.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8CG0Zcj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zVMztf05/GEDC2594.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVMztf05)(https://i.postimg.cc/14d1Pj6r/GEDC2600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14d1Pj6r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kBkCNpgg/GEDC2597.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBkCNpgg)(https://i.postimg.cc/w34gMvKJ/GEDC2596.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w34gMvKJ)
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User LH Sebenza Micarta with it's blade made from Devin Thomas stainless basketweave damascus (AEB-L and 304)
Reprofiled & sharpened the old slightly convex edge with it's apex @ ~40 degrees inclusive into a new slightly convex edge with an apex @ ~30 degrees inclusive on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then removed the extremely fine burr on a piece of copypaper with a dab of 0.25 micron diamond paste.
The new apex is reverse chest hair whittling sharp and the new point is also quite close to being centered again.
To my functioning eye the bevels look near-mirror like, but the camera sees a bit blotchy scratch pattern due to the different layers in the damascus steel.
Before:
(https://i.postimg.cc/qtzvpWLw/GEDC3106.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtzvpWLw)(https://i.postimg.cc/Z030BthD/GEDC3102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z030BthD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/t1wCJDvj/GEDC3107.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t1wCJDvj)(https://i.postimg.cc/D8T01jvf/GEDC3103.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8T01jvf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/q6dJXqdD/GEDC3108.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q6dJXqdD)(https://i.postimg.cc/SJfsd6R6/GEDC3104.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJfsd6R6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WgJrXgs/GEDC3109.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WgJrXgs)(https://i.postimg.cc/87kC07fq/GEDC3105.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/87kC07fq)
After:
(https://i.postimg.cc/mzdRw1tj/GEDC3118.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mzdRw1tj)(https://i.postimg.cc/MMGJvZdQ/GEDC3123.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMGJvZdQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QVtjMmyy/GEDC3119.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QVtjMmyy)(https://i.postimg.cc/fSt4f24W/GEDC3124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSt4f24W)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z0M4v3kK/GEDC3120.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0M4v3kK)(https://i.postimg.cc/jCLrT5WV/GEDC3125.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCLrT5WV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yvc7bHq5/GEDC3121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yvc7bHq5)(https://i.postimg.cc/VdtQSVBD/GEDC3126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdtQSVBD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2qrDN7WT/GEDC3122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qrDN7WT)(https://i.postimg.cc/R6h2vsZ1/GEDC3127.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6h2vsZ1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kVXpy1Kr/GEDC3130.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVXpy1Kr)
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User LH Sebenza
Yes a lefty!! Nice work kwakster. :tu: :like: