Multitool.org Forum
Tool Talk => The Mod Squad => Topic started by: J-sews on April 11, 2007, 05:57:04 AM
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Raukodur and Znapschatz were both pointing out how important an awl blade is on a multitool, and how Leatherman should have included one on the Charge. Raukodur suggested the idea of making a special awl bit for the flattened hex driver. Great idea! I would have NEVER thought of that myself.... :P
The first one I made worked, sort of, but it was a full 1/4" hexagon, which doesn't fit into the handy Leatherman bit kit. This new one is way better, and WAY easier to make.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/ab1.jpg)
I started with a 5/16" spade bit, used for boring holes in wood. These things are available for less than $2 apiece at every neighborhood hardware store. (Well, in MY neighborhood anyhow.)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/ab2.jpg)
The beauty part here is that the spade bit already has a nice sharp awl-point on the end, it is already the right thickness to fit into the Leatherman bit driver socket, and it is almost the right width. Very little grinding required.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/ab3.jpg)
First thing I did was grind away the little tips on both flutes of the drill. I wanted the awl to extend full length, to a big point. It was a simple matter to match my grinding to the existing angle on the point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/ab4.jpg)
Next I very carefully ground on the edges, doing my best to match the inside contour of the bit driver socket. It's not that difficult. Go slow, sneak up on the final size carefully, and check the fit often. The goal is to have it just barely fit into the socket.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/ab5.jpg)
Last thing to do is cut the finished awl bit off from the shank, and grind the other end to finished length. I made mine the proper length to fit in the bit kit holder. The drill bit steel is very hard, so I used a dremel cut-off disk for the task. Grinding it off too long, then grinding back to length with a bench grinder would work if no Dremel were available.
On the way home from work, I stopped and bought another $2 spade drill bit. Tomorrow I'm going to make it into a chisel blade!
~Bob
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Oh that is cool.
Now I have something productive to actually use my dremel for.
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Nice! :cheers: ...remind me not to lend you my Lie-Nielsen chisels! :P
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Amazing stuff Bob. Second attempt at the awl looks perfect and much more reproducable than your first attempt. Cannot wait to see your attempt at the chisel. Simply stunning stuff in terms of the fact you are adding on two extra tools onto a multitool in such a simple and elegant way.
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Ooooo! Swell post, J-sews. I am saving it in case another Charge comes my way. You are definitely The Man.
Thanks muchly.
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Was the bit hard to cut? I think those are hardened, aren't they?
Good job though!
Def
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Nice! :cheers: ...remind me not to lend you my Lie-Nielsen chisels! :P
HEY! Gimme that one there, it looks like it would almost fit as-is! (But I suppose those chisels cost a tad more than $2 each....?) :D
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Was the bit hard to cut? I think those are hardened, aren't they?
The drill bit steel is very hard indeed, but a Dremel abrasive cutoff disk will cut through it.
IMPORTANT: Always wear safety glasses when using a dremel cutoff disk. (Or while doing any grinding for that matter!) I'm on the Safety Committee, and I'll write anyone up if I catch them grinding with bare eyeballs! :police:
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Any luck with the chisel Bob?
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Just finished it up a few minutes ago. I started out with the same type of 5/16 spade drill bit, then ground the flattened hex shape on until it fit my Charge receptacle. The chisel tip was a tad more difficult than I'd expected. The finished point required a fair amount of work with a sharpening stone in order to come out right.
It's sharp as a razor now though. I can hardly wait to stab myself with it. :P
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/chisel1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/chisel2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/chisel3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/chisel4.jpg)
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professional job.
When you starting to sell and ship these Bob? I'll be your first customer, maybe you could ship them with a Frog Tool I'm thinking of buying for my dad :P
Of course that's meant in jest, I know you are probably tired of having me hassle you again, what with all fuss over the leatherman charge TTI (love that tool more and more every time I look at it, very glad I spent the extra money on it) :grin:
But in truth this is exciting stuff, those are two extra tool for your multitool without having to taake the thing apart. And like with any exchangable / removable part of a multitool, there is no worry to work the thing to the bone, you know if it gets too messed up you can get a replacement (or in this case make one).
Makes me wonder when a multitool company will release a tool which has all replacable parts, especially since they offer such massive warranties (lifetime in the case of victorinox). This way, if a tool gets too worn down or borken, instead of sending it back to the company you could buy a spare part (from the company itself) and replace it on your tool with minimum fuss. It would also allow you to customise the tools you wish to carry on your multi. This is one aspect of the surge I loved, however what I didnt like was that you could only connect the file or the saw to the tool at any one time. On the charge I have now both tools are fixed, I believe I would be much mroe willing to use the tools aggressively if they were BOTH on exchange systems.
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Just like to say I think you guys are really onto something here :) Great work Bob and it would be nice to see you get some sought of recognition from Leatherman for breathing new life into the Charge/Wave series . Well done .
Dunc
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Just like to say I think you guys are really onto something here :) Great work Bob and it would be nice to see you get some sought of recognition from Leatherman for breathing new life into the Charge/Wave series . Well done .
Dunc
Thanks for the kind words Dunc, although I must say it was a team effort. (see below) Afraid I'm more of a do-er than a thinker. :P I'll leave the brainy work to you fellas. :D
Raukodur and Znapschatz were both pointing out how important an awl blade is on a multitool, and how Leatherman should have included one on the Charge. Raukodur suggested the idea of making a special awl bit for the flattened hex driver. Great idea! I would have NEVER thought of that myself....
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Just like to say I think you guys are really onto something here :) Great work Bob and it would be nice to see you get some sought of recognition from Leatherman for breathing new life into the Charge/Wave series . Well done .
Dunc
Thanks for the kind words Dunc, although I must say it was a team effort. (see below) Afraid I'm more of a do-er than a thinker. :P I'll leave the brainy work to you fellas. :D
Raukodur and Znapschatz were both pointing out how important an awl blade is on a multitool, and how Leatherman should have included one on the Charge. Raukodur suggested the idea of making a special awl bit for the flattened hex driver. Great idea! I would have NEVER thought of that myself....
What a team :multi:
Dunc
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/jooliesews/Bobbys/ab3.jpg)
Sorry if this has been suggested already but would it not be possible to grind the awl on one side and the chisel on the other so that its reversible like the other bits?
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Sorry if this has been suggested already but would it not be possible to grind the awl on one side and the chisel on the other so that its reversible like the other bits?
It would indeed be possible (and I will admit that this idea never occurred to me either) but I don't think it would be a good idea. In use, both the awl and the chisel would be "pushed on" hard, causing the other end of the bit to bottom out in the receptacle. If that other end were a sharp awl or chisel, it would probably become dull or damaged.
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Sorry if this has been suggested already but would it not be possible to grind the awl on one side and the chisel on the other so that its reversible like the other bits?
It would indeed be possible (and I will admit that this idea never occurred to me either) but I don't think it would be a good idea. In use, both the awl and the chisel would be "pushed on" hard, causing the other end of the bit to bottom out in the receptacle. If that other end were a sharp awl or chisel, it would probably become dull or damaged.
Unless you could have a tool on the other end which wouldnt matter if it was pressed on .. say a spare flat point driver or erm ..??? I dont know but there must be some.
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Yeah, I had this exact idea Thargor, but the reason why it isnt a good idea as pointed out by Bob is what the necessary conclusion if when you think about how you would use the tools.
I like the idea of having something on the other side, even if a screwriver type bit, but I don't see it as necessary, especially since it would involve a lot more work on the part of a manufacturer who doesnt do this for a living (i.e. Bob, as opposed to Leatherman). Therefore if it can be done it would be a bonus (can't really think of a disadvantage), but if not, the bits as they are look stunning.
What I've been trying to wrack my brains about are two more possible tools that could be made in this form. The reason being, the bit sheath provided with charge models has 4 empty slots. If two are taken up by a chisel and awl, if the other two could be filled by two more useful tools it would fill the sheath and I think that'd be quite neat.
Cannot think of anything at the moment though ??? Anyone have any sensible ideas?
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What about a tool similar to that used by people who sew to cut threads, so it has two points (one could be blunt, one sharp?) with a sharp edge inbetween, like I have tried to how with paint below.
Such a tool I feel could be used as a 'reverse' cutting hook (so cutting by pushing forward rather than pulling back), so especially useful on the LMs without their standard cutting hook. I havent thought of any other uses for it.
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And what about this: a wire stripper which is basically a bit with holes in it. I have no idea if this is feasible or practical, just thought i'd throw the idea forward. I've tried to show two alternatives in the paint picture I've made.
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Here's a silly idea- since Leatherman's combo tool works better as a dedicated can opener due to the sharp point, what about a bottle opener notch in the side?
Def
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I just happened to have a beer handy so I used my Wave to open it, and well, you can see the results.
Def
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What about a tool similar to that used by people who sew to cut threads, so it has two points (one could be blunt, one sharp?) with a sharp edge inbetween, like I have tried to how with paint below.
Such a tool I feel could be used as a 'reverse' cutting hook (so cutting by pushing forward rather than pulling back), so especially useful on the LMs without their standard cutting hook. I havent thought of any other uses for it.
Would this tool just do the same type of work as the hook on the backside of your serrated knife blade?
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Thats the problem, I cant figure out another use for it. However, on the surge and wave, and charge models that dont have a cutting hook, wouldnt it be a useful function to have? I think a hook is preferable since the pulling motion is better for this type of cutting than pushing, but can't having pulling on a bit otherwise itd come out of the driver.
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Now if you could make a five point security torx bit easy enough to sell them on here. I bet that would get your Karma points well up. >:D >:D
Dave
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I just happened to have a beer handy so I used my Wave to open it, and well, you can see the results.
Gotta work on yer technique there, Def ol' boy! :pok:
I couldn't count how many bottles of beer I've opened with the combo tool on my original PST or old-skool Wave (plus Wenger SAKs, BuckTools, Gerbers, etc.). It's not that hard.
First of all, once you hook the rim of the cap, twist the tool a bit so that the sharp tip of the opener is near the rim, not in the soft middle of the cap. Also, lift up firmly, rather than "lever" the tool at the rim. That works well for a dedicated bottle opener implement, but with the combo, some allowances must be made. It still beats opening 'em with yer teeth!
:cheers:
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One very important thing you have to do Bob, is give the awl and chisel a test in the leatherman, and tell us how they work! Lets hope they perform well enough to be used on a regular basis.
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One very important thing you have to do Bob, is give the awl and chisel a test in the leatherman, and tell us how they work! Lets hope they perform well enough to be used on a regular basis.
I have not yet used the awl, but the chisel works well enough. Messing around with a piece of scrap wood, I was able to shave up some mighty fine splinters. ;) Surprisingly, it seems that the chisel works better "upside down" from how I had first imagined. (see picture below)
If used as shown in the upper sketch, the chisel seemed to dive into the wood and get stuck.
If used as shown in the lower sketch, it would roll up a nice splinter of wood, with no diving in.
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Now all I need is a legitimate use for it, instead of just making random gouges in a piece of wood. The Vic SwissTool and Vic Spirit both have chisel blades. What do people use them for?
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If you really wanted a chisel on a Leatherman (I dont really, I havent had the need for a chisel since woodwork class in school) wouldnt it be possible to grind the large screwdrivers tip into a shape like this?:
(http://forum.multitool.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1111.0;id=1906;image)
So its a combination large screwdriber/chisel like the combination bottle/can opener? It would still open screws okay I reckon. A bit extreme though maybe...
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I must confess, I don't often have a need for a chisel/scraper either. But both the Victorinox SwissTool and the Spirit have a scraper blade, so I assume some folks must have a regular need for one. I suppose the large screwdriver could be sharpened up and do double-duty as a scraper. It seems like using it in the screwdriver mode might dull or damage the sharp chisel edge though?
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Yeah, wouldnt really want to use a sharp edge to open screws, on tough screwes youd be likely to twist the metal I think and wreck your scewdriver and chisel.
So Bob, I am feeling a desperate need to own a chisel and awl bit for my charge, but realise they are preproduction atm :grin:
If more people are interested in them for their LMs aswell, would you consider creating, selling and shipping them? The thought of adding two more functions to my multitool without compromising anything is quite exciting. Especially since both bits would fit so neatly into the bit sheath.
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Well Raukodur, since this was all mostly your idea anyhow, how about if I just send you a pair of "pre-production samples"? :) (Y'know, for field testing trials and such, just like the big manufacturers do.) :D
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Well now Bob, that would be mighty generous of you :) I would highly appreciate that!
When you get around to it, if you tell me the transatlantic shipping fee I will transfer it to your account.
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One Meeelion dollars!
:twak:
Def
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Anyone got any ideas for another tool which could be made to fit in the bit driver (i.e. a tool that functiosn by being pushed or twisted, not pulled, or bent)
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How about a drill of some sort? We could even modify drills with 1/4" driver fittings.
Tom
(http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00964058000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1)
(http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00926331000)
(http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00926343000)
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Maybe a socket driver.
(http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00926164000)
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To the original poster, what did you use to grind the bit down?
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To the original poster, what did you use to grind the bit down?
Welcome Terry!
I used an ordinary bench grinder in my garage to do most of the work, then used a dremel grinder to bevel some of the edges. However, you could easily do the entire job with either a bench grinder OR a Dremel grinder. You really don't need both.
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Got a couple of bits waiting to send to you here Raukodur. (If that darn bit extender from L'man ever shows up!)
I made the bevel angle on the chisel steeper, so that it won't tend to "dive in" as much when cutting. I also rubbed them up with gun black, so that they would match the rest of your tool. (After all, we multitool enthusiasts wouldn't want to commit an embarrassing faux pas in public by having our bits clash with our tool now would we?) ;)
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Those look amazing Bob :D Cannot wait to test them out, hopefully LM will have their bit extender in stock soon.
Thanks for going the extra step and blackening them ;) Can always tell a master craftsman by the attention to detail.
One point, maybe I missed it on the photos (my screen isnt too good), do the bits need to have a small slot on either side where they 'slot' into the bit driver, like we see on the sides of the bits provided by LM? If not, are they not necessary? I guess the bits may be held quite tightly without the slots.
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:-[ Ummm...hang on a moment. (Sound of dremel tool in the background. Sounds of cleaning solution being opened, black oxiding, re-oiling.....)
There we go! :grin:
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Thanks for going the extra step and blackening them ;) Can always tell a master craftsman by the attention to detail.
Hah! THAT is a good one! ::) :D
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They look stunning Bob! As if made by leatherman themselves. You should find out if there is a market for these things and start selling them, I mean who doesnt want to add two new functions to their multitool without having to alter it in any way?
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They look stunning Bob! As if made by leatherman themselves. You should find out if there is a market for these things and start selling them, I mean who doesnt want to add two new functions to their multitool without having to alter it in any way?
Anyone with a Leatherman bit driver should want them, especially the awl. There are just so many occasions where an awl is needed, yet so many multitools that don't have one.
However, the whole idea about discussing this topic in the Mod Forum is to show how easy it is for folks to "do it themselves." Seriously, I've got less than $2 invested in a 5/16 spade drill bit, and about ten minutes on either a dremel grinder or an ordinary bench grinder. Go give it a try guys!
:multi:
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I think it is also worth mentioning that the metal that these bits are made of will also braze (silver solder) very well so those bits with drill bit or long driver extensions are quite easy to do after a bit of practice. This also works with standard bits. The way to look at it is if you want something just try it, if it fails you have just waisted 5-10 minutes :-[ but if it is successful you will have exactly what you were after with the knowledge that you made it happen. :cheers:
Dave
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Recieved those bits today Bob, they are awesome! I am really busy at the moment (have a three week clinical anatomy course) so cannot post any pictures right now, but as soon as I am free I will test them out and post my findings. Cannot wait!
The saw also looks brilliant, will also test that out when I get the chance.
Amazing to think that my Charge acquired two new functions today!
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Glad to hear that they arrived safely sir! :multi:
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Tried out the awl really quickly, works like a charm! Makes holes in a wide variety of hard meterials in no time, can really work the thing too because its made out of a drill bit which is made for this type of use, and because at the end of the day its replacable.
Same with the chisel, works perfectly for little jobs, and it is so easy to use in the charge bit holder, the fact that you can flip it over to use the other side of the edge is also quite useful.
I have to say Bob, you have outdone yourself with these, I really think you should start making and selling them.
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Does it work on Mother In Laws? Cause if so, I'll take a dozen... >:D
Seriously, Bob does some good work!
Def
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Hey, I'll take just a wee bit of the credit for this one...it was all Raukodur's idea in the first place. I never would have thought of it. And like I've stated earlier in this thread, ANYONE with a bench grinder or a dremel tool can make these extra bits. They're very easy, very inexpensive, and very useful.
(And how often does that ever happen these days?) :)
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I hope you kept some to yourself to play with?
Def
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They're very easy, very inexpensive, and very useful
When you combine that with the fact that most people are either inept at using such tools, too lazy to do so, or just want to buy ready made stuff, then you have a saleable product ;)
The fact that the bits are cheap, and it doesnt take long to make them means you would have low cost of production both in terms of money and time, and they are so small you could easily package them and sell them at a relatively cheap price but also make a nice little profit per each bit.
Maybe Multitool.org should start producing a selling some of its modding ideas...would help raise money for the website, if the tools are stamped with the logo, would help act as the best form of advertisement.
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Hmmm...you may be on to something there.
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Along with the bits, there is the metal (and wood) saws you have been handing out free to multitool members, they could very nicely have the multitool logo on the side...
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Just now getting the chance to read this thread. This sounds like a great idea to me. I'm planning to make a couple of my own. Now that they've had a few months in the field, any feedback as to how they're working/holding up/suggestions for improvement? Thanks.
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The awl works great as a general purpose poker/knife tip saver/hole starter. No problems at all, and very easy to make.
The chisel I haven't really needed to use very much. :-\
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And like I've stated earlier in this thread, ANYONE with a bench grinder or a dremel tool can make these extra bits. They're very easy, very inexpensive, and very useful.
I just happen to have a bench grinder.
I challenge you!
I bet a golden goose egg I can't make one (I wonder if I get a discount for buying 100 drill bits to practice on?)
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J-sews,
I picked up a 5/16" bit this week and went to work on it last night, but when I pulled it out of the plastic and measured the thickness, it was just over 1/16" thick, whereas the LM flat bits are a full 1/8" thick. I checked several of my other larger spade bits and they were all just as thin as the new one. Was the bit you used just as thick as the flat bits, or were you able to make it work even though the material is thinner? Just wanted to check before I go tearing up a new bit and then not having anything useful when I'm done. Thanks!
Tim
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J-sews,
I picked up a 5/16" bit this week and went to work on it last night, but when I pulled it out of the plastic and measured the thickness, it was just over 1/16" thick, whereas the LM flat bits are a full 1/8" thick. I checked several of my other larger spade bits and they were all just as thin as the new one. Was the bit you used just as thick as the flat bits, or were you able to make it work even though the material is thinner? Just wanted to check before I go tearing up a new bit and then not having anything useful when I'm done. Thanks!
Tim
Hi Tim, yes the spade bit blade was somewhat thinner than the Leatherman flat bits. (I don't have mine with me here, so I cannot check actual sizes) In any case, the thinner spade bit works fine as long as it fits properly in the bit driver receptacle. You will want to "sneak up" on the final dimensions as you grind the bit down. Check the fit often as you go.
Oh, and make sure to try to match up the "flattened hex" contours of the bit driver receptacle as best you can. (See crappy sketch below of end view) It doesn't have to be perfect. Just bevel the edges slightly until it just barely fits.
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OK, thanks a lot. I'll give it a shot later on this week. That's a really good point about being a knife tip saver. When I got my new Wave a couple of years ago, within the first two weeks of owning it, I did something and managed to snap the very tip of the PE blade off. You don't realize how much you use that tip until you don't have it. I've since managed to sharpen the blade back such that it has a decent tip again, but I'd rather not keep doing that! Thanks.
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If you really wanted a chisel on a Leatherman (I dont really, I havent had the need for a chisel since woodwork class in school) wouldnt it be possible to grind the large screwdrivers tip into a shape like this?
(...)
Good evening. Lurker here.
I did this mod to my Charge's large screwdriver. I had little need for this item, due to having the screwdriver bit, and felt a small chisel would be more usefull. So, I just got a metal file and a knife sharpenner, and did it by hand in a couple of minutes. Turned out quite nice. It is still strong enough to pry with, gets under minimal spaces, and is a hell of a push-cutter for tight spaces and wood carving. An awl would also be nice, but then again, I always carry a Vic Soldier or Farmer...
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Well, Bob, here's my first crack at it. I'm obviously no machinist, and they're certainly not nearly as pretty as yours, but I think they'll be pretty effective anyway. I might take another shot at the chisel, since it's a little loose in the bit driver, but the awl, which is more important anyway, came out really well. It's a real nice snug (but not too snug) fit - it's actually more solid in the bit driver than the LM bit that came with the Wave! Perfect fit. Thanks again for the idea and for the tips. If I do take another crack at the chisel, I'll let you know how it comes out.
P.S. The 5/16 was stamped pretty deeply on the bits I bought. I was afraid if I ground it out, the already thin bit would get too thin. Did you grind yours out, or have any concern with this? Thanks.
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Nice job Tim! Looks like they turned out nicely! (Sorry about the slow reply, I'm about 500 miles away from home this week!)
I don't remember exactly how my 5/16 markings turned out. I'll have to check when I get back.
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I see you added the little nicks in the side for the bit adapter detent to engage. Does it seem to click into place correctly for you?
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I live in northern Michigan. I was born in northern Michigan, raised in northern Michigan, and spent my whole life in northern Michigan.
I once took a trip all the way to Ohio, to see what the rest of the world was like, but then I came back to northern Michigan :)
Sounds like you finally made it a little farther than Ohio :D. Hope you're having a good trip.
The nicks in the side for the detent work pretty good. One side is closer to being the exact correct location than the other, so it engages better, but they seem to lock in pretty well on the awl. The ones on the chisel are a little looser since I ground a little too far and it's a little loose overall. The next one will be better ;)
I also noticed something else interesting. I have a LM E306X which has a bit driver as well. The awl bit still has a very slight taper (the shape of the original drill bit), which makes it slightly narrower at the base than at the top where the point starts (i.e., the sides aren't perfectly parallel like the LM bits are). It's much snugger in the E306X than it is in the Wave. In fact, I have to give it a pretty good push to get it to bottom out in the knife. I was surprised to see that the slots in the two bit drivers were different sizes.
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An older post but such a wonderful tool idea. :salute: I read this when I first joined was a great idea to me then and that made me think about it when I got my new wave. I think that I might just give that a try myself, it may be a while but I think i'll try it :D
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I went to buy a spade bit to make it, $6 each! $*@%, everything is still expensive as hell here.
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I went to buy a spade bit to make it, $6 each! $*@%, everything is still expensive as hell here.
Bummer dude. :(
(I forgot; where are you at?)
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Bummer dude. :(
(I forgot; where are you at?)
I'm 500 miles west of Def. :D
Even thou the canadian dollar almost doubled in value against usd the price basically stayed the same, and when people start to shopping south they now doing bunch of ads ask people to "shop local", riiiight... ::)
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Bummer dude. :(
(I forgot; where are you at?)
I'm 500 miles west of Def. :D
Even thou the canadian dollar almost doubled in value against usd the price basically stayed the same, and when people start to shopping south they now doing bunch of ads ask people to "shop local", riiiight... ::)
With the Canadian dollar so high against the US dollar, and yet your prices haven't changed, somebody in between is pocketing some big money. :(
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With the Canadian dollar so high against the US dollar, and yet your prices haven't changed, somebody in between is pocketing some big money. :(
You got that right. Even with regular news coverage for months, retailers didn't budge on prices. There's not enough competition in many areas, so the quasi-monopolies can do what they want. We have no real alternatives in many cases...
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With the Canadian dollar so high against the US dollar, and yet your prices haven't changed, somebody in between is pocketing some big money. :(
You got that right. Even with regular news coverage for months, retailers didn't budge on prices. There's not enough competition in many areas, so the quasi-monopolies can do what they want. We have no real alternatives in many cases...
Sorry to hear you ppl having it hard about exchange rate Canadian vs. US dollar if the rate is better then prices should drop but when ppl know they can get a certain price 4 something they usually don't want to drop the price >:(
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Bob, finally got a 5/16 wood bit bought and intend to make an awl. Will let you know how it turns out whenever I get it done. I meant to do this some time ago. But forgot about it till the other day. :)
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This old thread shows me I need to read more here :tu:
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That didn`t take very long. Here are some in process pics. :)
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Filing the lock notch and awl in bit card.
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Awl in the TTi.
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LM Surge chisel & LM Charge awl from Vic 8)
(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/74/lmsurgedlatko.jpg)
(http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/4057/vicawllm.jpg)
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LM Surge chisel & LM Charge awl from Vic 8)
(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/74/lmsurgedlatko.jpg)
(http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/4057/vicawllm.jpg)
Ok tell me how you did the Vic awl in the multi pleeeeaaassssseeeee?
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Hi Dave, good on you for finally getting it done! :salute: Pretty easy wasn't it? :) Have you tested it out on anything yet?
Nice looking work there Rahmed :tu: Seems like a lot of different tools could be made to work in the Leatherman bit receptacle :)
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Hi Dave, good on you for finally getting it done! :salute: Pretty easy wasn't it? :) Have you tested it out on anything yet?
Bob it was much easier than I thought it would be. It seems the only tempering in that bit was only on the very end. So it was easy to file the bit into shape. No havent tried it out on any thing yet. This bit was pretty thin so it fit loose in the bit card. I used a little duct tape to take up the slack. Fits nice and tight now. :D
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Hi Dave, good on you for finally getting it done! :salute: Pretty easy wasn't it? :) Have you tested it out on anything yet?
Bob it was much easier than I thought it would be. It seems the only tempering in that bit was only on the very end. So it was easy to file the bit into shape. No havent tried it out on any thing yet. This bit was pretty thin so it fit loose in the bit card. I used a little duct tape to take up the slack. Fits nice and tight now. :D
Cool! :) And it will definitely save the tip of your knife blade someday :salute:
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I ground my Wave flat blade driver into a chisel when I was working rental unit maintenance. It was the thing for moving the strike plate around and adjusting how doors latched shut. Anybody I worked with only had to see that once before they had they own Wave and were asking me to grind it.
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Does anyone know, is SOG awl fits somehow in LM Wave?
http://www.sogknives.com/tactical/accessories/awl.html
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I know, necro thread and stuff, but I just wanted to say my browser gives a malware-warning for page two of this thread... Just so you know ;) I've not checked it out further.
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Thanks for the heads up. I get the same warning on page 3, not 2. I've reported ti so hopefully Whoey can sort this out soon.
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It was just a picture of Dr. Evil. >:D All fixed now.
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Now I have to het a 5/16 paddle bit now and try it.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4
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theres some good info in this thread, so instead of creating a new one, i figured i'd raise this one again :)
one bugbear of my new wave is the lack of an awl - now, my beloved Squirt P4 has one but that's not enough, my wave has to have one as well. I'm not the best at DIY but i was recently gifted a dremel, so i had a solution in search of a problem, and here's my problem.
So, a couple of 8mm drill bits on their way and I'll see if i can make myself an awl . . .
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Another oldy but goody! :whistle:
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Another oldy but goody! :whistle:
Yep that is a good one :cheers:
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An older post but such a wonderful tool idea. :salute: I read this when I first joined was a great idea to me then and that made me think about it when I got my new wave. I think that I might just give that a try myself, it may be a while but I think i'll try it :D
Never did try it :facepalm: :D
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I was a necrothreader even back in the day :o 8)
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Im gonna have to steal this one.
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I was a necrothreader even back in the day :o 8)
Ponch, you're such a necrothreader :D
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Funny enough, last night I took a punchdown tool extension (https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV427-018-Punchdown-Extension/dp/B007GRTGIM) and cut a shank into it to fit in my modded RAVE.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff210/aberdrew13/Mobile%20Uploads/20160711_171937_zps0plvilot.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/aberdrew13/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160711_171937_zps0plvilot.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff210/aberdrew13/Mobile%20Uploads/20160711_171948_zpspgm5zovq.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/aberdrew13/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160711_171948_zpspgm5zovq.jpg.html)
It appears that I forgot to snap a pic of the final product, but I finished shaping it and even blued the cut areas with some gun blue.
Now I will have a punchdown tool with me all the time when I carry my RAVE, just not an impact one.
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I was a necrothreader even back in the day :o 8)
Ponch, you're such a necrothreader :D
:hatsoff: I love a lot of these old threads for sure :D