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Tool Talk => The Mod Squad => Topic started by: hawkchucker on January 28, 2009, 01:28:16 AM

Title: Working Ti.
Post by: hawkchucker on January 28, 2009, 01:28:16 AM
OK anyone here ever work in titanium? I am really wanting to try the stuff being I can get it kinda cheep. Is it easy to cut and work with? can I drill it easy?

I just want to make some simple things like money clips and such. 

Remember My wife does not allow me to do my own electrical work! so Keep it simple.
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: J-sews on January 28, 2009, 01:58:43 AM
I've done a lot of titanium machining John. It's not nearly as bad as its reputation would suggest. Depends on what you want to do:

Drilling holes for instance is no problem at all. Cutting oil is not as important as simply keeping the cut cool.

Grinding is a big problem. The soft titanium loads up the gringing wheel, much like aluminum or brass will.

Polishing is easy. You can readily achieve a mirror finish.

Hope this helps! :)
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: hawkchucker on January 28, 2009, 09:52:52 AM
What about bending. Can it be done easy. Do I have to soften it?
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: zepla on January 28, 2009, 10:48:51 AM
The soft titanium loads up the gringing wheel, much like aluminum or brass will.

Soft eh? I did not realize this but if titanium is that soft is it than very smart to use it on a MT like the Charge? If you drop it does is dent easy? Just wondering  :think:
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: Leatherman123 on January 28, 2009, 04:02:19 PM
Nope, the handles on the Charge are extremely durable and hard wearing.. I like how they don't show scratches..
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: J-sews on January 28, 2009, 06:09:24 PM
Clarification: titanium barstock is supplied in an "annealed" condition, which means it is relatively soft and able to be machined. Annealed titanium bends quite readily. It can then be heat treated to a harder condition, as I'm sure the Charge scales are.

John, will you be working with raw titanium barstock? Or is it pieces of titanium scavenged from other finished products?
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: jzmtl on January 28, 2009, 06:45:50 PM
Clarification: titanium barstock is supplied in an "annealed" condition, which means it is relatively soft and able to be machined. Annealed titanium bends quite readily. It can then be heat treated to a harder condition, as I'm sure the Charge scales are.

John, will you be working with raw titanium barstock? Or is it pieces of titanium scavenged from other finished products?

Can any titanium be heat treated or is it just certain alloys?
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: J-sews on January 29, 2009, 12:07:52 AM
Clarification: titanium barstock is supplied in an "annealed" condition, which means it is relatively soft and able to be machined. Annealed titanium bends quite readily. It can then be heat treated to a harder condition, as I'm sure the Charge scales are.

John, will you be working with raw titanium barstock? Or is it pieces of titanium scavenged from other finished products?

Can any titanium be heat treated or is it just certain alloys?

I don't know. :-\


I do know that the titanium most of us encounter is 6al4v grade.
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: hawkchucker on January 29, 2009, 02:36:00 PM
I will have to check today. I have the slip at work and will get it.
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: nuphoria on February 10, 2009, 11:53:27 PM
Regarding the polishing to a mirror finish, what's the best way of going about that?

I have a Ti to play with with a hand brushed finish from me removing an ugly anodising job. Have dremel, will play! Should I try a polishing felt and some jewellers rouge?
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: J-sews on February 11, 2009, 02:51:42 AM
Regarding the polishing to a mirror finish, what's the best way of going about that?

I have a Ti to play with with a hand brushed finish from me removing an ugly anodising job. Have dremel, will play! Should I try a polishing felt and some jewellers rouge?

A Charge Ti? And you've already smoothed up the rough cast finish a bit? (because a smooth finish is important before beginning to polish)

As regards the Dremel/felt/jewelers rouge, you may need a bit more horsepower than that. :-\ Give it a try and see, but chances are you'll need a bench grinder with a 6" rag wheel to really cut through all the blemishes and leave a mirror finish.

(http://motamedi.info/process_images/grinder.jpg)
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: nuphoria on February 11, 2009, 05:46:35 AM
Thanks, perhaps I'll stick a big felt bit in my makita drill - that might ramp it up a bit!
Otherwise this means I have an excuse to buy a bench grinder, which is something I have always had my eye on  :gimme:
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: jzmtl on February 11, 2009, 05:52:58 AM
I've polished a knife blade and a flashlight with dremel, it works albeit slowly, you just have to crank up the speed so the felt pad isn't bogged down by friction.
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: nuphoria on February 11, 2009, 07:19:25 AM
Ti Spork I meant to say... thanks for the advice, I shall start messing with it tomorrow.

(Disclaimer: I leave out words and come out with erroneous spellings due to dyslexia)
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: jzmtl on February 11, 2009, 07:25:11 AM
The flashlight I polished: http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/1873/vichg4.jpg

Turned out to be a bad idea thou, aluminum stay polished for a day, then get scratched to hell.
Title: Re: Working Ti.
Post by: nuphoria on February 11, 2009, 04:43:45 PM
Yeah, I've found that with white gold, it doesn't stay shiny for long on my hands!
You did a lovely job though  :tu: