What light did you carry today?

[Stefano]

Ironically, the review on CPF states that the throw is 370 meters. That is why I like to hear real world reviews from people that use the light for specific tasks.

You're right.
I think the person got confused when he mentioned the official Armytek data.
On the official Viking PDF there are two different Viking parameters (it can be led XHP50 or led XP-L)
The 370 meters refer to the old XP-L version (33500cd - 366 meters)
The new XHP50 version has 20500 cd and 286 meters (ANSI) declared

[William]

Back to the Raw Aluminum Eiger Mule.

[Roc]

Managed to carry my FW3A in my coin pocket today to make room for a folder. It wasn’t bad.

[Stefano]

A nice walk in a forest.
It was difficult because there was a windstorm in the past few days.
I found many fallen trees to get around or climb over, in the end I arrived on a small lake while the sun was setting.
I made the return in the dark with Armytek Wizard (basic version with XP-L led) and alternating the Armytek Predator ProXHP35 Hi with the Viking Pro XHP50.
Low ambient temperatures helped me use the lights at full power without overheating.
Very impressed by the Predator, it is a thrower but in the dense forest (with the help of Headlamp) it still manages to be valid.
A fairly bright spill.
It was a nice evening at Flashaholics

[spudley112]

Stefano,

I am a real runtime junkie and the Armytek headlamps have some super impressive low end run times, and some night splitting upper end performance. I would love to hear more a bout your experience with you light. I am thinking it may be one I need to add to my collection soon.

BTW - There is a reddit post out there where a guy has been running his Armytek headlamp on its lowest setting for nearly a year now...way beyone the advertised 200 days (which is impressive on its own!).

[Sos24]

Managed to carry my FW3A in my coin pocket today to make room for a folder. It wasn’t bad.

FW3A is small for an 18650, but I would think it would be a little bulky in the coin pocket.

What Spyderco is that in the picture with the FW3A? 

[Stefano]

Stefano,

I am a real runtime junkie and the Armytek headlamps have some super impressive low end run times, and some night splitting upper end performance. I would love to hear more a bout your experience with you light. I am thinking it may be one I need to add to my collection soon.

@Spudley
See also Zebralight Headlamp which has multiple light levels and offers the possibility to customize them. Example: H600Fc

About Armytek I can tell you my experience.
In the last 3 years I have bought many Armytek headlamps because I find a way to pay them little.
I bought the first one as a guest lamp when I was hiking, then I ended up using it at home and in the garden (not to consume my Zebra)
When the Magnet USB versions came out I started buying many pieces (I gave many gifts) these headlamps were also used for work, they proved robust, they fell, they were used under water and immersed, none has failed.
Compared to the Zebra I like the recessed lens which is more protected in the event of a collision, even the magnetic refill is very comfortable (it is slow but in the evening you connect the cable and do not open the torch, this increases the life of the thread and rubber rings)
I must specify that my positive experiences are with the Wizard version "Basic" XP-L and ELF C2.
All specimens bought for me or given away have a nice Warm color.
I bought a Wizard Pro version in 2017 and returned it after trying it for only an hour.
It didn't have the lumens advertised, maybe I was out of luck.
A few days ago I purchased the Pro version again but for the holidays it is delayed in delivery, I hope to have more luck this time.

I don't know what are the low levels you are talking about I assume that you are talking about the 0.4 lumens of ELFC2 (200 days) or Wizard basic (100 days)

The difference in runtime between the two models (with the same low output) seems to suggest that the ELF has a circuit that is more effective at low levels.
Difference between Wizard Basic and ELF C2 is that the first one has Magnet_USB charge, the second one (ELF) Micro_USB port in the back of the head (charging speed is similar) - Armytek says that the ELF version remains waterproof even without the protection rubber, I can confirm that it's true because the rubber has a limited duration and I've already lost one but no problem even washing the Headlamp under tap water.
Be careful though that there is a strong brightness difference between Wizard Basic and ELF.
The Elf is lower on almost all levels (little difference) but on the Turbo level I see a strong difference between the two models in favor of Wizard Basic.
Looking at the manuals there are 930 lumens for Wizard and 900 for ELF (subtract 7% if you buy a Warm version) but in all the specimens that I have seen the Wizard is more powerful on the Turbo than at least 100 lumens or maybe more.
I think that the Wizard basic XP-L warm is close to 1000 lumens and the ELF is on the real 840 lumens (but both have the same LED)
Elf probably intentionally has a less exasperated driver to the full advantage of autonomy on all high levels.
https://www.armytek.com/index.php?dispatch=attachments.getfile&attachment_id=125
https://www.armytek.com/index.php?dispatch=attachments.getfile&attachment_id=91

I like that level of 0.4 (but I'm less in the Warm version, probably 0.35 lumens) I find it "right" allows you to save night vision enough, not to draw attention but at the same time to see enough without straining .
I don't like too low levels which are useful only to see your watch, I approve them in a Headlamp like Zebralight where you can customize the levels you need but here on Armytek I find that 0.3 / 0.4 lumens are a right choice and practical utility.
The Firefly 2 level on the two headlamps is 2.3 lumens (less and less 7%) here I would have liked 0,5/1 lumens more.. however it is acceptable.

As for the Wizard Pro (that I have used very little) the Firefly levels are very low.
https://www.armytek.com/index.php?dispatch=attachments.getfile&attachment_id=126
There is a level of 0.15* lumens (Firefly 1) and then one of 1.5 lumens (Firefly 2)
Then a 5.5 lumens (Firefly 3)
*(also here subtract 7% for the Warm tint version)

When I tried the Wizard Pro I found the two levels too low and of little use.
Yes,' there is the 5.5 level which is bright enough to do everything but I would have liked a different selection.
Example: (as I would have liked)
0.2 lumens
2.8 / 3.5 lumens
8/10 lumens

You must also consider that the Wizard Pro interface is also significantly different from the Basic / ELF version
It has 4 levels/layers
Firefly (3)
Main (3)
Turbo (2)
Strobo (3)
Without going into details I can say that it is not exploited well in the turbo level.
We have 3 Firefly, 3 main levels, 3 Strobes, why not 3 Turbo levels?
Would have been nice:
Turbo 1 = 600 lumens
Turbo 2 = 900 lumens
Turbo 3 = 1800 lumens

I say this because as a headlamp enthusiast I find that a light level of 550/600 lumens (like Zebralight allows you to choose) is a right compromise between brightness, autonomy and warmth.

Another thing I want to remember is that the Wizard Pro version has strobe levels, the Basic and ELF versions don't.

In summary my consolidated experience is mainly with Wizard "Basic" and ELF C2 while with the Wizard Pro I can't speak much (next week I can tell you more about it)

I find that those two XP-L models (ELF and Wizard Basic)are perfectly successful headlamps and have a really nice beam, a perfect combination of flood and depth.

On the  version Pro with led XHP50 (but *remember* that I probably received a Wizard Pro specimen with non-compliant specifications) there is a perhaps larger and more homogeneous light beam but it lacked much depth.
I compared the Basic version and the Pro version on the Main levels (which are the same as lumens) in the woods and with the Basic version (XP-L) I saw many meters ahead of the Pro which resulted in a much, much less range/throw.

Regarding the Pro version on the various forums complaints of failures or bugs have often been read (but it seems that the Pro version has recently become reliable)
While on the Basic versions I have never read about faults but maybe it could depend on the fact that the Pro version sells more and therefore there is more "statistics"? (just a hypothesis..)

These three Headlamps I told you about are always sold together with a good battery, it has Armytek brand but under the film you find a LG MH1 3200 mA, it is a valid battery. (I bought and used many of them on other lights)

If you want to buy an Armytek headlamp I hope I have given you good food for thought.

Please consider that I write with an online translator and therefore there may be many errors. (I don't have time to review well)

Edit:
I looked at the manuals (of which I put the links above)
They have been corrected, PDF of Wizard Basic now reports 1000 lumens (in the past 900 was written on the manual) so my eyes had seen well, there are at least 100 lumens of difference between Wizard Basic and ELF.
What he had probably 900 lumens was the old version of the Wizard without the Magnetic Charging
Edit 2: I made some corrections to the translation

[spudley112]

Stefano,

Thanks for the detailed reply. It answers everything I need to know. Yes, I like the idea of .4 lumens for 200 days, and I also feel that the .15 would be too low to be useful...although I saw one gentleman that said he leaves the light on that setting all night so his light is easy to find in the dark whether around the house or out camping.

I think the Elf C2 is what I want for now, but the 18350 version Elf C1 looks great too. Compact light providing nearly two months of runtime is pretty impressive.

I looked that the Zebralight, and although I have heard great things about them, I just am not ready to drop $90 at this point. I think the Elf C2 will be perfect.

As for headlamps...at this point I am using an Imalent HR20 and I love the ability to use the dial to get just the right level of light. I like ramping and rotary type UIs because, like you, I often run into situations where one level seems too low, but the next level seems too bright.

[Stefano]

Stefano,

Thanks for the detailed reply. It answers everything I need to know

One thing I forgot to write is that the ELF version and the Pro version have the power button flashing, it indicates the percentage of charge.
In the Pro version it can also be set for flashing_ help in finding the torch.
Watch the manual or some videos on Youtube for this function that can be enabled / disabled.

[Roc]

FW3A is small for an 18650, but I would think it would be a little bulky in the coin pocket.

What Spyderco is that in the picture with the FW3A?

I could deal with it, but I came across a pouch from an old Fenix light of mine that allows me to belt carry, so a SAK can go back in the coin pocket. The Spyderco is the Smock.

[spudley112]

Carrying my Thrunite Neutroc 2C today.

Last night I woke up at 3am and could not sleep. It was a pretty mild night and I stepped out on the Balcony with several of my favorite lights just to do a little beam comparison. I probably looked like a fool with a bunch of lights line up and me shining them on cars in the parking lot, but I was enjoying it. The reality is that I really don't need so many lights, but the journey of finding and testing different lights with their individual light profiles, temperatures and performance is kind of fun. I like trying to find that "perfect" light.

[Roc]

Carrying my Thrunite Neutroc 2C today.

Last night I woke up at 3am and could not sleep. It was a pretty mild night and I stepped out on the Balcony with several of my favorite lights just to do a little beam comparison. I probably looked like a fool with a bunch of lights line up and me shining them on cars in the parking lot, but I was enjoying it. The reality is that I really don't need so many lights, but the journey of finding and testing different lights with their individual light profiles, temperatures and performance is kind of fun. I like trying to find that "perfect" light.

My neighbors all close their drapes at night, so I let it shine. Do your thing man. Who cares what they think.

[Roc]

FW3A in the pouch I mentioned in my last post. It’s perfect. My D4 fits also, but I have to remove the clip.

[Sos24]

Carrying my Thrunite Neutroc 2C today.

Last night I woke up at 3am and could not sleep. It was a pretty mild night and I stepped out on the Balcony with several of my favorite lights just to do a little beam comparison. I probably looked like a fool with a bunch of lights line up and me shining them on cars in the parking lot, but I was enjoying it. The reality is that I really don't need so many lights, but the journey of finding and testing different lights with their individual light profiles, temperatures and performance is kind of fun. I like trying to find that "perfect" light.

I go out into the back yard often and compare different lights just for the fun.  My back yard borders on a church property.  I have wondered what some drivers must have thought seeing a church lit up at 3am from my light while I was in my fenced in yard.

[Stefano]

I went with the Armytek Wizard Pro warm to the woods but had to go out before it was completely dark.
I tried it later in the garden.
A year or two ago I bought this headlamp but it had some problems, it did not have much light, the specimen arrived today instead seems very good.
The results exceed expectations, the only drawback the interface of the Pro version is really complicated and the very low button does not help much.
However satisfied.

[Gareth]

Nitecore Tube on keys and Convoy S2 (16340 and warm white) in pocket. 

[Stefano]

Walked an hour in the woods with Armytek Viking and Armytek Wizard Pro (both warm)
With the Viking I alternated the Turbo and Main level of 360 lumens, at home I found the battery at 3.90 V (LG MH1 3200 mA)

With Wizard Pro I alternated between Turbo 1 (840 lumens) and Turbo 2 (approximately 1600 lm) at the end at home I measured the battery Samsung 30 Q (3000 mA) and it was 3,60 volts

The ambient temperature was around 10 degrees Celsius.
The Viking tolerate heat very well.
The Wizard Pro at maximum power drops quickly enough, I don't know how much but I think around 1000/1200 lumens (with even lower temperatures there would probably be a maximum power with a lower drop)

[spudley112]

Interesting. I really think the place flashlight technology needs to go is toward better heat management. The push toward maximum lumens in a small package really catches the eye of the average buyer, but the truth is, the ability to sustain that brightness just is not there. It is great to have a light that advertises that it can blast out 3000 lumens, but when you see that it can only maintain that for a minute before a massive step down, it really is not that great.

With all that being said, I know many people only use turbo modes for a few seconds at a time, but truthfully, I would like to see they ability to really light up the night, become a sustainable proposition. Thermal management is where that is at.

[Stefano]

The push toward maximum lumens in a small package really catches the eye of the average buyer, but the truth is, the ability to sustain that brightness just is not there. It is great to have a light that advertises that it can blast out 3000 lumens, but when you see that it can only maintain that for a minute before a massive step down, it really is not that great.

I remember my first Headlamp 18650, a Zebralight H600 XM-L (cool withe because I didn't find the neutral version in Italy)
It could stay "only" 3 minutes (timed) at 750 lumens, then it went down to 420 lumens.
7 years have passed and how far these lights have gone, now we customers look at Headlamp with thermal management which have almost 2000 lumens (or some exceed them) with extreme cold some of these lights can provide an almost continuous maximum power.
I wonder what we will have in our hands in 5 or 10 years...

[Stefano]

Used the PD35 V2.0 outdoors during a short walk.
I don't like using cool withe lights in the woods but I wanted to see this light well.
Impressed by throwing when it is at turbo level.
From the first day I thought that the throw was higher than declared, this evening I did a test with the luxmeter at home, the instrument confirms.
Fenix declares 15600 cd - 18300 instead found (then gradually decreases)
The Fenix value is measured after 30 seconds, however I still get 17400 cd after a minute.
I probably have a high value because I use an unprotected battery (Sanyo GA button top)

[nelly1974]

Streamlight 1L-1AA and Eagletac d25a mark II

[Sos24]

HDS Rotary

[NutSAK]

I'm still carrying a trusty FourSevens Quark Tactical powered by 14500 li-ion.  Unfortunately I lost one of these while camping last year, and it was a rare neutral XP-E emitter version that I couldn't find a replacement for.  I've been snatching up used ones where I can and upgrading them.  The UI and program-ability of these make them perfect for my uses and, thanks to Surefire litigation, this UI will never be seen in any new Quarks.

I just upgraded this one over the weekend from a cool white XP-G2 to a neutral XP-G3 4000K.

[lucky13don]

Just got a olight i3e eos in..loving it.replaced my thrunite on the keys. Also a protac 90 "duel fuel" , digging it.

[spudley112]

I decided to start giving the Olight M2R Pro Warrior some more carry time. This is a light that took a lot of heat over the fact that it comes with a proprietary battery that is a bit more expensive and only available from Olight. OK, I get all that but I have to say, this light deserves a bit better consideration. First of all, yes a more expensive custom battery is a bummer, but dealing with rechargeable batteries means in the end the actual cost per hour of light is probably less than a Ray-o-vac AAA. By the time you have to replace the battery, you have gleaned a lot of light from it...yeah...it still adds up to more than a standard battery...but hey, trying to be positive here.

The light has some very good throw for a "tactical" light. This will likely be the light that ends up on my M14 or AR15 in the near future. With the available remote switch with magnetic connection, it is a simple system to use and charge. The light tends to have a yellowish tint to it. I usually go for more of a neutral white in my lights, but I have noticed that when using a light as a lantern by adding a diffuser, the warmer tints seem to be a bit more pleasant.

The two switch (tail switch and side switch) system is actually very nice for quick access to various modes of light in quick order. For me, I leave the side switch memory on 1 lumen for a light that I can use to navigate around the house or campsite and the tail switch offers two modes. Half press for 250 lumens and full press for 1800 lumens. That gives me 3 light levels quickly as needed.

I am a runtime junkie. A light with an astronomical turbo mode is nice, but I tend to look at the lower levels and the amount of estimated runtime they give me. I like the idea that the light can be charged, then accompany me on an extended camping trip, motorcycle trip or other activities and continue to provide light is what attracts me to a particular model. When I was a police officer, we had some incredibly bright rechargeable lights mounted in our cars, and these were great for traffic stop scenarios, but I once found out the hard way that tracking a fugitive for hours on end through the woods was not really what the lights were up for. Luckily, I always carried an extra flashlight as well as a weapon light. TO this day, I look for a light that is going to keep running throughout the night. The M2R Pro definitely fits the bill.

[PiterM]

SureFire G2X Pro today...

[ezdog]

I havent been here in a while as I was working on the road since before XMas mostly but here is a shot of the Armytek Elf C2 which I have worn every day that I have been working pretty much,it has been amazing mostly!

Here I am in a gigantic Log Cabin in Montana in the middle of nowhere essentially!
It is ALWAYS dark in there,always!

I had to live there too by myself for several Weeks to do the work,we all have our Cross to bear!

[eTripper]

Nice pics, EZ!  Looks like a scene from Mountain Men. 

[m47mu74nt]

nice EDC !


Today I swapped the tail cap butto from silver to black :
I don't need the "semi-transparent" ring of the silver one (that allows to use lighted switches... that are not compatible with my current driver)
and ... black is really cool along with orange !

while it was disassembled, I also coated all the o-rings with silicon grease to increase water resistance of the flashlight 

[Gareth]

Going very old school with the Fenix E01.