Multitool TLC

[J-sews]

Multitools are tough, but so is the way we use them. Despite being better than ever, even the best tool needs a little TLC now and then. NeitherExtreme started this thread looking for input on what everyone does to keep their multi in tip-top shape. We'll make the thread a sticky and keep it here at the top of the Mod Squad forum for reference.

If you've got anything to share - be it on cleaning, maintaining, or reconditioning your multitool, then by all means add it here!

Thanks!   

[NeitherExtreme]

Simple thread, just currious to here how you all take care of your tools. 
So, how do you clean, lube, and rustproof your tools? How do you sharpen the blades? What else do you do to keep your tools in tip-top shape? Also, what have you tried that didn't work or you don't do anymore?

If a tool is dirty/rusty, I clean it with WD-40. I also use toothpicks and q-tips. A great cleaning tool I've been using recently came with my electric shaver- it just a two sided brush with stiff plastic bristles and it works great in tight spots!
To lube and prevent rust, I've been using normal 3-in-1 on a lot of my tools and miltec on the more expensive ones. I think I'm about to ditch the Miltec- it works ok, but seems gritty sometimes and I'm not seeing any good reason to spend $9 a bottle instead of using my trusy 3-in-1.
I sharpen with a sharpmaker I've had for a while now, but I still feel like I'm learning with it everytime I use it. It's done great for everything but the tips. They're still giving me problems, but I'm getting better. 

[Grant Lamontagne]

Here's a "Care and Feeding" article I wrote for SOSAKOnline:

http://www.sosakonline.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=127&Itemid=35

It's written for SAKs, but it's the same process for multitools.

Def

[Anthony]

Using floss around those extremely tight spaces around the pivot of the pliers really clean out the black gunk that builds up there.

I use 3-in-1 oil also every other week or two on my daily multitools, depending on how hard I use them.  And the old toothpick and Qtip come in handy

[hawkchucker]

I actually abuse my tools and have to Maintain them quite often. I use brake cleaner to drive all the gunk out, and then oil with Marvels mystery oil. If there is rust or really stubborn stuff I have been known to run them through the parts cleaner at work and give them a thorough douche to get all the crap out. To sharpen I use the Smith diamond pen. It is a great little gismo that does serr and strait blades with ease.

[J-sews]

I'm do pretty much the same as you guys with the WD40, Rem-Oil instead of 3-in-1 oil, toothpick and Q-tips. Never tried that floss idea, I'll have to give it a whirl next time.

The foreign substance that I despise the most in my multitool though is sand! Gritty, grindy, sand. Even one grain between the pivots gives me  the heebie-jeebies.   

I keep a small aerosol can of compressed air at my workbench to blow out my tools when needed. They sell the stuff rather cheaply at most office supply stores.

[NeitherExtreme]

x2 on the sand. I hate that stuff! I once got some sand in my KF4, and it got up in between the aluminum scales and the steel liners. If I squeezed the handles I could hear the "scrape scrape" of the sand.  It eventually all worked its way out though. I also think I'll give that floss idea a try.

[knife-man]

I wash them once in a blue moon then cover them with dub dee and leave the excess to drip off.

Toothpicks and Q-tip's indeed     .

[Grant Lamontagne]

Sand is nasty stuff.  Few things send shivers up my spine like that grinding sound of solid grit in a SAK or multi.  That's why I almost never take a SAK to the beach.  If anything breaks there, well then that's just too bad!

Regular grit is terrible too, but sand is the bane of my tool existence.  I almost long for poorly made tools when dealing with sand as the giant gaps allow for easier cleaning!

Def

[Anthony]

Sand is nasty stuff.  Few things send shivers up my spine like that grinding sound of solid grit in a SAK or multi.  That's why I almost never take a SAK to the beach.  If anything breaks there, well then that's just too bad!

Regular grit is terrible too, but sand is the bane of my tool existence.  I almost long for poorly made tools when dealing with sand as the giant gaps allow for easier cleaning!

Def

Or carry a SOG when around sand...breaks down in two minutes.


I dropped a SAK in some dirt a few weeks ago while digging (it was in my front pocket)...GRIT!  I gave it a good wash and it came out fine.  Good thing the soil was kind of moist...it really didn't sneak between the impliments.

[Grant Lamontagne]

In my former life as a home brewing supply store manager I used to have access to a nice little pressurized water jet that I found to be very good for cleaning SAKs.  It was a great little model that was adapted form a dental water drill, and it would clean anything.  I am going to have to see if I can find another one one of these days...

Def

[NeitherExtreme]

Toothpicks and Q-tip's indeed     .

Uh oh, sounds like a normal person walked in on this conversation.  If I heard that some guy at work cleaned his normal tools that way, I'd think he was a little off his rocker, but here I am doing the same thing!     Now I want to go see if I can find my old water jet I had in junior high for my braces!  :grin:

[Grant Lamontagne]

I actually use Q Tips as well, although now I'm a little embarrassed to admit it!

Does it help if I say that I use a multi to squish the heads so they fit down inside the channels of a SAK?

Def

[damota]

I actually use Q Tips as well, although now I'm a little embarrassed to admit it!

Does it help if I say that I use a multi to squish the heads so they fit down inside the channels of a SAK?

Def

No 

Dave

[knife-man]

OK so I admit it .. they go ion the bath me once a month .. whether they (or I ) need's it or not  .

Then I cover then in dub dee .

[Dunc]

I also use the little stiff brush you get with electric razors . Also I find Bluetack ( the stuff you use to put up posters ) , just push it in the the hard to reach areas and when you pull it out the crap sticks to it . A good wash with washing up liquid , a rinse then a hair dryer and a little oil ( like 3-in-1 ) but not too much . Compressed air is good too .

Dunc

[damota]

Flush the tool under the tap full on, dry it (and myself) with kitchen roll. When dry a large dollop of 3 in 1 oil (or Bisley gun oil) on the edge of the blades were they fit on the axles another on the center of the plier/cutter head, wiggle them about to spread it down into the jionts, then wipe all the excess off. Tried using liquid paraffin but too gungy so I am back to 3 in 1. Every now ad again I poke some oil into the inside of the pouch and spread it as best I can to try and stop any moisture build up. The water shifts all the muck out if any is sticking I will douse it with boiling water from the kettle and straight under the jet of cold water again, no tools needed and only takes about 5 minutes per tool.
Works for me and I use Gerbers.

Dave

[J-sews]

Okay, sounds like we've got several good suggestions about cleaning out the crud.

How about rust? What works best for getting rid of the little spots and speckles? 
(SwissTool users, please bite your tongues!) 

[Dunc]

On my Leathermans I used wire wool and WD-40 .

Dunc

[damota]

Okay, sounds like we've got several good suggestions about cleaning out the crud.

How about rust? What works best for getting rid of the little spots and speckles? 
(SwissTool users, please bite your tongues!) 

What's rust?   
Is that what you get when you send a LM back for repair?   
Serious= Dunc has it right but I have also heard that if metal is badly rusted leave it in the freezer overnight. When it has a nice frost on the surface rub with wire wool. Never had to use it myself but apparently it lifts the rust to make it easier to polish away.

Dave

[NeitherExtreme]

WD-40 and a good wipe are all I've ever needed to get rid of rust... but I've never had a severely rusted tool. I'd be curious to here tips on this as well, especially how to get rust out of hard to clean areas where it can go untouched.

[Sparkey]

I swear by WD-40...although my pop uses some slick 50 brand spray lubricant that will free up any seized joint you'll come across..I used some on my supertool after some exceptionally dirty and dusty jobs..I used it with some paper towels and worked all the joints and it seems to stay in the joints longer than WD. I think this is because it has a higher viscosity than WD-40, and I think WD displaces water better. I also like to use a can of compressed air to blow dust and grime out of the nooks and crannies.

[NeitherExtreme]

Just had a funny picture run through my head. I know some people with access to an air compressor use them to clean out their tools. I don't have any to use, and I was thinking about where I could go to use one. I remebered that they have compressors at gas stations to fill tires, and then I just pictured myself standing in a parking lot outside a gas station using the compressor to clean multi-tools...  Truly absurd! What won't I think of next.

[J-sews]

 


Seriously, these aerosol cans of compressed air are cheap, available at most office supply stores. They work great too.

[I'm Still Bison]

Does anybody do anything special to prep a multi for long term storage? I've got some duplicates,and Ebay  birds that I want to store properly.

[damota]

Never had to do it with a multi (I get rid of the ones I do not use (3 sons)). If I store anything of a similar make up (small and metalic) though I clean and oil the item but instead of wiping off the oil I wrap the still oily item in a Tuff cloth then store in a cardboard box.

Dave

[J-sews]

Much as I like WD, it seems a little thin for long term protection. I use a heavier weight gun oil or 3-in-1 oil, rubbed completely over all surfaces, if the item is to be stored for a long time.

[NeitherExtreme]

I was recently away from most of my tools for about 6 months  They stayed in a tool box in a basement. All I did was spray them with WD-40 since I was in a hurry, and it worked out OK. No serrious rusting or anything, but there were a few tiny spots here and there that I think might have appeared over that time. If I did it again I'd probably use a heavier oil.

[J-sews]

How about a MAJOR reconditioning job, like Spoonrobot did here: http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,1056.0.html

Anybody else ever have to bring a tool back from the dead like that?

[damota]

Bob I think Spoonrobots post (5^th one down on the second page) of doing that job should be repeated in this thread Bob, could you not make it happen.

Dave