Multitool TLC

[max6166]

Since this thread is fresh in my mind, I thought I'd also post a quick summary of cleaning methods for future readers.

This is just off the top of my head, so please excuse any ommissions:

Cleaning:

- Most people either use WD-40, or water with some sort of soap.

- For cleaning utensils, people often use rags, toothbrushes, q-tips, & toothpicks

- Special cleaning methods include:
   - Blowing out dirt with a can of compressed air
   - Sticking blue tac inside grooves to picks up little bits of dirt, etc.
   - Using unwaxed dental floss to clean inside joints of pliers and tools
   - Putting SAKs and Vic MTs in the dishwasher
   - Opening & closing joints under running water, or while swishing the tool around in water

- Drying is extremely important. Some people leave the tool opened to air dry. Some use a hair dryer or something similar.

[NeitherExtreme]

Anyway, the majority seem to favour WD-40 or oil of some sort. Is coating the entire tool really necessary? Doesn't it make it greasy and slippery?

I've never done extensive testing or anything, so I can't really say what's entirely necessary. But... I've been using WD-40 for serious cleaning and 3-in-1 for general lube. I just put a small drop on most of the pivots and work it in a bit. Sometimes I wipe some on the blades/tools, but not much. When I'm done I wipe the whole thing off with a cloth (just cut up t-shirts...). It doesn't seem slippery or overly oily to me, though the next couple of times I use the tool I might notice a little oil seeping out. I usually go a while between cleaning/lubing, so that doesn't bother me too much.

[Mike]

That's easy, buy it, decide the two of you don't gel, then sell it before the factory oil even wears off. Hmmm, sounds a lot like mickyd. 

Mike

[Benner]

That's easy, buy it, decide the two of you don't gel, then sell it before the factory oil even wears off. Hmmm, sounds a lot like mickyd. 

Mike

Only if it's a LM. 

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

That's easy, buy it, decide the two of you don't gel, then sell it before the factory oil even wears off. Hmmm, sounds a lot like mickyd. 

Mike

Oi

[ironhand]

dential floss!  I would have never thought about that.

see, I've already learned something new!

ironhand

[donvito]

dential floss!  I would have never thought about that.

see, I've already learned something new!

ironhand

Use the unwaxed kind, it's also good if used as a thread to sew gear together if nothing else is around, or if you need something that doesn't rot will long term water exposure.

[P-11 shooter]

I'll be honest. I don't really do much cleaning on my multi tools. I sharpen the knife if it gets dull. I haven't oiled the Pulse in I don't know how long. I oil the blades on the Wave every once in a while with some FP-10 gun oil.

I've used carb & choke cleaner to blast out grit before, or just over-oil the joint and work the pliers for a while. ALl kinds of black stuff comes out every time I do that.

[Swiss Man]

I just soak them in warm soapy water over night and then using either a pick or toothpick and pipe cleaners. I get the yucky stuff out.

Using a combo of M3 pads or steel eraser and paste.

But for oil I use olive oil on the pivots and blades. That way when one cuts food they don't get the WD 40 taste.

[Leatherman123]

I have found that Buck honing oil cleans up LM diamond files like new!

[Pacu]

anyone use Remington gun oil with Teflon? I take my tools out and regrease them every month as i live in Houston. Seriously living here is like going to a sauna and spraying a bottle of hot piss in your face. Dirty shady town.

[Leatherman123]

I haven't tried RemOil..  I try to stay away from any oils in my multi-tools as they attract gunk.. I use dry film lubricants like Tuf Glide. Tuf glide is waterproof, it doesn't attract gunk, and it lasts a LONG time! Not to mention that it basically seals the steels pores so it makes it have a much better rust resistant finish. I would never use anything else!

[Tinnie]

I haven't tried RemOil..  I try to stay away from any oils in my multi-tools as they attract gunk.. I use dry film lubricants like Tuf Glide. Tuf glide is waterproof, it doesn't attract gunk, and it lasts a LONG time! Not to mention that it basically seals the steels pores so it makes it have a much better rust resistant finish. I would never use anything else!

YAY Tuf Glide user!!!

I bought a little tuf glide kits for my edc bag...good stuff!

[Pacu]

Tuf glide eh?  where uall getting this stuff? I'll try it.

[Leatherman123]

Here's the kit I have: http://www.denverdiscounSPAMCORP.com/KNIVES/KNIVES---ACCESSORIES/MOSS91200.html

An excellent price indeed! 

[eodtech]

I am sold on using an ultrasonic cleaner for the chore at hand.  I recently sold my old ultrasonic cleaner and just ordered a new one that appears to  have a big enough s/s tank for a MT or knife with out dis-assembly 2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner.  This model was recently on sale for $72 with FREE shipping and a $10 gift card, so I ordered one. The previous one that I owned I had to disassemble the item to be cleaned and put the pieces in the small tank, which was not always possible because the size of the parts would not fit in the tank. With the new one I believe I will be able to do riveted models and others that can not be taken apart in the s/s tank. Once I test the new model there will be a detailed post here, the unit should be here next week, I hope as I have a couple used SOG Toolclips and other MT's as well as some knives and other metal parts to clean.

[Tinnie]

Here's the kit I have: http://www.denverdiscounSPAMCORP.com/KNIVES/KNIVES---ACCESSORIES/MOSS91200.html

An excellent price indeed! 

That's the one I have

Great lil item!

[Hardnox soldier]

I have been using similar methods. Mostly nylon brushes,and compressed air. The only thing I do that I have not yet read about is Contact cleaner. The kind used in electrical trades. Designed to dissolve dust and grime. Evaporates very quickly. End with light machine oil applied with pinpoint applicator. I have been wondering how to remove small scratches. Great thread!

[GotUCovered]

I am sold on using an ultrasonic cleaner for the chore at hand.  I recently sold my old ultrasonic cleaner and just ordered a new one that appears to  have a big enough s/s tank for a MT or knife with out dis-assembly 2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner.  This model was recently on sale for $72 with FREE shipping and a $10 gift card, so I ordered one. The previous one that I owned I had to disassemble the item to be cleaned and put the pieces in the small tank, which was not always possible because the size of the parts would not fit in the tank. With the new one I believe I will be able to do riveted models and others that can not be taken apart in the s/s tank. Once I test the new model there will be a detailed post here, the unit should be here next week, I hope as I have a couple used SOG Toolclips and other MT's as well as some knives and other metal parts to clean.

Whatever came of this?  Does the cleaner work well for multi's without dissasembling them?

[JimShockz]

Here's the kit I have: SPAMCORP.com/KNIVES/KNIVES---ACCESSORIES/MOSS91200.html]http://www.denverdiscounSPAMCORP.com/KNIVES/KNIVES---ACCESSORIES/MOSS91200.html[/url]

An excellent price indeed! 

That's the one I have

Great lil item!

Incredible what the can do these days.

-JS

[Metropolicity]

After washing I usually put some tin foil down in my toaster oven, set it to 100f and let it bake for about 10 mins. That dries up all counts of water.

A little mineral oil or olive olive for food safe lube and away I go. If its a BO tool (likely it is) I take a paper towel with some olive oil and wipe it on and with another cloth or paper towel wipe most of it off. It give it back it's semi sheen, for BO that is.

If I  doing a full tear down or reassembly from a mod, I actually lightly coat or dab some petroleum Vaseline on the pivots. Tends to stay put and doesn't need much.

[Breezy12]

I have found that Bar Keepers Friend works wonders... it gets rid of rust, grime, sap, mystery "gunk", etc.  I have used it on a couple filthy Leathermans that I got on ebay, and BKF got them looking like new in no time.

http://www.barkeepersfriend.com/

I use the powdered version with a damp sponge, then towel the tool off when I'm done.  I let it air dry for a bit, then hit it with some 3-in-1 or WD-40.

[JNieporte]

It depends on how used or gunky the tool is. For new tools, skip to the second-to-last paragraph.

For gunk, rust, blood, etc. I use boiling water in a pan with a drop of dishwashing liquid. I just leave the tool in there for about 60 seconds. Then I use a toothbrush, toothpicks, dental floss, and lots of elbow grease to remove whatever is in there. Sometimes I'll need to use the bronze bristle brush on a Dremel. Everything is then dried with a hair dryer and then the pivots are lubricated. My choice for lubrication is half Tuff Glide, half 3-in-1, in the Tuff Glide's needlepoint bottle. Work the pivots a few times. Then the tools get resharpened and whatever other maintenance is needed. The most common is a broken flathead screwdriver, which can be turned into a pry bar or reamer easily. If the tip of one of the needlenose pliers is broken off, the other one can be filed flush with it to make stubby pliers. I sharpen my multitool blades to the point where they'll cleanly slice thin (receipt) paper.

Most of my multitools are Leathermans, and I absolutely hate their bead blast finish. In humid environments, mine rust up just by carrying them; don't even have to take the tool out. So, I use a bronze wire wheel attached to a Dremel and remove the finish, then a small cotton wheel loaded with polishing compound. A final finish with 0000-grit steel wool produces a nice satin finish. I have to get every spot of every tool, and as deep into the pivots as I can. A Blast takes me about an hour.

Sheaths require care as well. Most of mine are nylon, and it's as simple as repairing any worn-out Velcro, reattaching belt loops, and using a lighter for frayed parts. Sometimes, the sheath just needs to be thrown out. New ones are typically $6.

Once the tools are up to par, it's a matter of keeping them sharp and lubricated. For sharpening, I use a leather strop and then a glossy magazine cover. If it's really dull, I use a white ceramic rod. Dog bone sharpener (looks like a triangle) for serrations. If I'm going around water or it's humid outside, I'll rub each tool down with a Rem Oil cloth, otherwise, I keep everything but the pivots dry.

[GNandGS]

Had a Radio Shack edition get lost outside... found it months later after the snow melted.  Buried 1/2 way in some mud!

Washed it in the kitchen sink and lubed it.  No rust or discoloring.  It was the only time in nearly 10 years I ever added anything -otherwise dry.  Still a usable pc until I had it exchanged under warranty.

I would still wash it on occasion. Never tried floss but that is a clever idea.  Toothpicks were handy.  After washing would open it up and let air dry.

[Dtrain]

I was a bit neglectful recently with my SwissTool..I didcovered the results of said neglect at Work..I ended up dipping a Bandanna in to some Diesel and wiping down the Crud..Worked pretty well as it has a few times when I still ran out over the road as a Driver..It even left my tool with the Manly Scent of Deisel! LOL

[TheAverageJoe]

Personally I swear by ballistol (a rather good oil) on edc items once every couple months. other items once when it looks like they need it. its the duct tape of oils imho (plus you could probably drink it its that food safe) another upside is it eats rust!

[detron]

Personally I swear by ballistol (a rather good oil) on edc items once every couple months. other items once when it looks like they need it. its the duct tape of oils imho (plus you could probably drink it its that food safe) another upside is it eats rust!

was not familiar with this product,   it does look safe, but the warning is sort of odd

Ballistol does not contain ingredients considered hazardous by the FDA. It does not contain any ingredients which may be harmful for warm-blooded organisms, reptiles or aquatic organisms (if used as directed). If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING, ASPIRATION CAN OCCUR. CONSULT A PHYSICIAN IMMEDIATELY.

if it is so safe, why do I need to contact a physician?

[TheAverageJoe]

Personally I swear by ballistol (a rather good oil) on edc items once every couple months. other items once when it looks like they need it. its the duct tape of oils imho (plus you could probably drink it its that food safe) another upside is it eats rust!

was not familiar with this product,   it does look safe, but the warning is sort of odd

Ballistol does not contain ingredients considered hazardous by the FDA. It does not contain any ingredients which may be harmful for warm-blooded organisms, reptiles or aquatic organisms (if used as directed). If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING, ASPIRATION CAN OCCUR. CONSULT A PHYSICIAN IMMEDIATELY.

if it is so safe, why do I need to contact a physician?

simple aspiration can occur, oil in the lungs is not good at all.

[detron]

Personally I swear by ballistol (a rather good oil) on edc items once every couple months. other items once when it looks like they need it. its the duct tape of oils imho (plus you could probably drink it its that food safe) another upside is it eats rust!

was not familiar with this product,   it does look safe, but the warning is sort of odd

Ballistol does not contain ingredients considered hazardous by the FDA. It does not contain any ingredients which may be harmful for warm-blooded organisms, reptiles or aquatic organisms (if used as directed). If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING, ASPIRATION CAN OCCUR. CONSULT A PHYSICIAN IMMEDIATELY.

if it is so safe, why do I need to contact a physician?

simple aspiration can occur, oil in the lungs is not good at all.

that makes sense,  I guess I did not read it well enough (plus I was 3 hours past my bed time)

[lanedecamp]

OK so I admit it .. they go ion the bath me once a month .. whether they (or I ) need's it or not  .

TMI.