Unexpected edge retention of SAK steel

[theonew]

Let me start off by saying I'm insane and compulsive about sharpening. All of my blades do this after being sharpened or touched up.



It's nuts, I know, probably a waste of time, but I do it and it makes me happy. Usually this fine of an edge on any super steeled knife will only last for any length of time through light cutting of soft material or a small amount of gentle whittling of wood. I once did a test on 1095 steel, sharpened it to a hair splitting level, let it soak in vinegar for about 15 minutes, and then tried to split a hair. No go. The blade was still shaving sharp but had lost that extra bite just from a short period of oxidation.

Now one of my dog's favorite "toys" is a stick, but not just any stick, he likes a hardwood that is green or still somewhat green. But cutting branches off of live trees in Central Park is not something I would ever do outside of some kind of emergency situation, but after a heavy storm I can often find branches that have snapped off, and then I usually use a sak saw to cut off a piece or two for him to gnaw on.

The other day I ran across an elm branch that had probably been down for a week or so and it was also fairly soaked through since it was right after some heavy rain. So I cut off a piece about an inch in diameter using my OHT saw. As I'm walking home I realize it was a bit too long but instead of just sawing a piece off, I decided to use the knife blade and see how quickly I could cut it. Taking deep bites out of the wood and using as much strength as my arm could muster I was able to cut it through in about 6 slices (I love the thin SAK knives ). Then I had to round the point down so it wouldn't poke through the couch or my leg when my dog is enthusiastically enjoying his new "toy". So I then proceeded to round the point using lots of smaller slices until if was smooth.

When I got home I gave the stick to my dog and rinsed off the blade of the OHT. When I touched the edge I was surprised that it felt like it had lost none of its sharpness and sure enough it would still whittle a free hanging hair with ease. I was surprised. While SAK steel doesn't seem to have the best edge retention in abrasive materials like cardboard, it does seem to have an exceptional level of edge stability, especially given how soft it is and I'll bet it would also whittle hair after a short dunk in vinegar. More and more I've come to appreciate this often maligned blade steel 

[Crouton]

I've never tried that, but that's impressive.  I've never been particularly good at sharpening a blade actually.  I go for a quick, serviceable edge.  The way I use my multi-tool I tend to dull a blade pretty quickly cutting boxes and such and occasionally using the main blade as a wire stripper.

Impressive skills brother.  What do you use to sharpen with?

[theonew]

Thanks

I use a DMT Coarse/Extra Fine 8" x 3" inch hone followed by a 6" x 2" Spyderco Ultra Fine ceramic that I lapped by hand to give it an even smoother surface. My technique which I love is to grind in a relief bevel using the DMT Coarse, polish that with the EF and then lift the blade angle a few more degrees and apply a micro bevel with the Spyderco ceramic.  I can then touch up the micro bevel a number of times before it starts to take longer than a minute or two, at which point I go back to the DMT C or EF to regrind the relief bevel. It works really well for me, combining cutting efficiency, edge durability and ease of maintenance.

My OHT has about a 10 degree per side relief bevel with a 15 degree micro bevel.

[Cleanser]

lots of posts on various knife forums about the corrosion resistance, edge retention, and ease of sharpening of victorinox blades.  Ive also seen posts asking what steel it is, without a clear answer. Just think, if those swiss had come up with some mythology and stupid name for the material, like EMFE, we could sell production knives at 200% markup the second after we bought it.

[theonew]

Just think, if those swiss had come up with some mythology and stupid name for the material, like EMFE, we could sell production knives at 200% markup the second after we bought it.

 

[ICanFixThat]

Nice!!  as fancy as many new knife steels are... history has shown Vic got the steel right a very long time ago.  While I would not mind having some SAKs with different steels, over all, and an alround everyday tool/knife Vic's arguably have the best blade steel.  It's not going to be the best for every application, but when one looks at price, edge maintenance, and rust resistance it's clear they have a winnign formula.

Of course now diamond sharpeners are cheap, and as shown in the Damascus Pioneer, and some other knives there are now new ways to manufacture metals that really are great for pocket knives.  In general though a little stroping will keep your SAK blade very sharp. 

I can't believe the value that can still be had in something like a Sportsman II, Pioneer, Ranger, etc.

[KiwiMark]

In general though a little stroping will keep your SAK blade very sharp. 

I can't believe the value that can still be had in something like a Sportsman II, Pioneer, Ranger, etc.

That's all I do - I buy a new SAK, strop it until I'm happy with the level of sharpness, then every now and then I'll strop it again to get back to that nice & sharp edge that I like.

My Cybertool 34 was a little pricey compared to most Vics, but my Alox Cadet, Alox Farmer, Ranger, Trekker, Explorer & One handed Trekker NS were all VERY well priced for genuine Swiss made Victorinox SAKs.  Considering the fit & finish, the quality, the longevity and the utility of these SAKs . . . well you just don't see this amount of value for your money very often.

Some people say they don't like the SAK blades because the steel is just too soft and they don't hold an edge well - I am not one of those people!  I've never had an issue with edge retention and it is just so easy to sharpen my blades when I get home to keep them nice & sharp.  I am not opposed to anyone carrying a SAK + another knife if they feel they need more cutting ability, but as mentioned by the OP, the edge retention is actually pretty decent.

[gustophersmob]

lots of posts on various knife forums about the corrosion resistance, edge retention, and ease of sharpening of victorinox blades.  Ive also seen posts asking what steel it is, without a clear answer. Just think, if those swiss had come up with some mythology and stupid name for the material, like EMFE, we could sell production knives at 200% markup the second after we bought it.

In case you're wondering about the steel used,this is taken from the FAQ page on SOSAK:

http://www.sosakonline.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=93&Itemid=61

14.  Where can I find some technical info like blade steels and what years certain tools were introduced?

Technical info can be found all over this site, the SOSAK forum at Knifeforums.com and at both the Victorinox and Wenger homepages.  Here is a selection of common answers:

* Blades – Stainless chrome molybdenum steel, mixed from carbon, chrome, molybdenum, manganese & silicum.
* Blade Hardening – 1,900 degrees F. (and annealing temperature of 140 degrees). RC 56.
* Wood saw, scissors and nail files – RC 53.
* Screwdrivers, tin openers and awls – RC 52.
* Corkscrew and springs – RC 49.
* Separators – Nickel silver until 1951; Alox since 1951.
* Rivets – Brass.
* Scales – Cellidor.
* Can opener – Patented in 1951.
* Bottle opener – Introduced in 1942.
* Keyring – Replaced shackle in 1968.
* Tweezers – Introduced in 1902.
* Wood Saw – Introduced in 1902.
* Scissors – Introduced in 1902.
* Multi-Purpose Hook – Introduced in 1991.
* Fish scaler – Introduced in 1952.
* Nail file – Introduced in 1952.
* Chisel – Introduced in 1985.
* Phillips screwdriver – Introduced in 1952.
* Ballpoint pen – Introduced in 1985.
* Mini-screwdriver – Patented in 1983.

This is credited as Info by Victorinox -
 For both blades we use chrome molydenum stainless steel with 0.52% carbon, 15% chromium, 0.5% molydenum, 0.45% manganese and 0.6% silicium. After a sophisticated hardening process at 1040°C and an annealing temperature of 160°C the blades achieve a hardness of RC 56. * The woodsaw, scissors and nail files have a hardness of RC 53, the screwdriver, tin opener and awl a hardness of RC 52, and the corkscrew and springs RC 49. * The metal saw and file, in addition to the special case hardening, are also subjected to a hard chromium plating process so that iron and steel can also be filed und cut. * The separators have been made from aluminium alloy since 1951. This makes the knife lighter and easier to carry in one\'s pocket. Formerly these separating layers were made of nickel-silver.