Custom made components

[Witmen]

Hello everyone this is my first post, I love the forums so far.  lots of great info.  I am a law enforcemet officer and I use my stock B60 on duty every night and have noticed some changes I need to do to it.  First I really need to get a v-cutter I want a double ground straight blade don't care if it replaces or adds to the 1/2 serrated.  but I'm not sure of what to get rid of for the v-cutter, I use everything in it cept the awl and large flat screw driver. can you get large tools right next to the scissors or is the spring in the way?   

The other thing I desperatly want in it is a 3/32" pin punch. I'm a Glock Armour for my county and I constantly have to keep a 3/32 punch on me cause I never know when I'll need to service another officers Glock.  So if it was at all possible to have a custom made punch that locks back in my sog I'd be in heaven. I'd be able to use my sog even more then.  If anyone out there has tools and the ability to do something like that please let me know I'd be happy to pay.

Thanks

[Grant Lamontagne]

Welcome to the forum!

The biggest issue you are likely to find is that you have to (in most cases) remove a full length tool to replace a full length tool.  You should be ok with blades as they are thin enough that you can double them up.  If you double up the blades then you should be able to add the V- Cutter without a big problem.

I'm sure the Glock bit would be do-able, I'd just have to do a little bit of poking around to figure it out.  I'll let you know if I come up with anything.

def

[Witmen]

Hey thanks def. 

oh and with length on the Glock tool as long as it's as long as the awl or philips it will be long enough to work.  I got my hopes up now.  havin the Glock tool would just really be awesome.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I would think that if all you need is a standard pin punch, the best idea would be to just take some straight up steel rod in 3/32" and curl the base around the pivot pin so it looked like a letter P with an elongated stem.  It wouldn't lock open, but if that was important to you, you could grind a small notch into part of the curled end where the lock tab could fall into.  I'm not certain that you'd want to grind too deep though, as you'd be weakening it.  Fortunately you shouldn't have to put significant pressure on it during use.  Even so, I would stick with a carbon steel as opposed to a stainless or brass.

You could also consider going with a slightly thicker stock, then turn down the last inch or so- I don't know what kind of equipment (if any) you have access to, so that might be more trouble than it's worth.  Using 3/32" stock you would only need to make the bend and a small grind, both of which you could accomplish with the PowerLock itself.  The grind would be easier with a Dremel if you have one of those, and turning down the last inch or so could be done with a Dremel or drill- simply lock the base of the punch in the drill (before you bend the base!) and use some kind of abrasive like a benchstone until it gets to the size you need.

That's what I have so far....  if I come up with anything else I'll be sure to add it.

Def

[Witmen]

I wish I had a lathe,  I considering the bent 3/32" rod myself but I have my doubts about how effective of a lock I could get out of it.  I'm gonna do it though starting now and just experiment with notch depth.  cause I need it to be able to do light prying so it needs to lock and have strength. man it would be nice to have a metal lathe.

How hard is it to get a good turn using the drill press and benchstone method you mentioned?  I might get a couple of rods and try both methods. 

Thanks I got something to do now on my day off.  Makes me wonder why I didn't think of that myself    

I'll have pics of my attempt

[Grant Lamontagne]

The drill method is one I've seen only with brass, which would be a hell of a lot easier to do than steel.  That's why I was thinking that as a last resource.

Another thought I had was to get a different sheath with a small loop on the side to carry a standard Glock Tool in.  Many sheaths have loops on the side to accommodate small sharpening rods, and it's possible that you could get one to fit it.



If you can`t find one to fit it, you could also look into a custom sheath, which is likely to be a bit easier to manage than a customized implement, and would allow you to use the pliers or screwdriver in addition to the punch.

If you go with larger stock, be careful that the rod you are putting in isn`t significantly sized enough to keep the plier mechanism from closing properly.  While it may appear that SOG tools can accept any combination of implements, there are limits on what can fit where based on how the pliers fold, and where the nail nicks (if applicable) are.

Def

[J-sews]

When using the 3/32 pin punch on a Glock, do you just push on it? Or do you have to pound on it?

[Grant Lamontagne]

There are some firm pushes involved, but it's not the kind of thing you should have to pound on.

Def

[Witmen]

yea like def said normally the hardest pin to remove is the trigger pin and if it's hard to remove you normally have to wiggle the slide lock and it frees right up.  Glocks are a joy to work on.

I'm having trouble finding 3/32nd rod so I'll be ordering some.  which I hate ordering anything I'm a very impatient person.

[Grant Lamontagne]

Try contacting Tom at rotokid@hotmail.com as he may be able to help you.  I know he carries odd sizes of brass stock, but you also never know what other interesting stuff he may have handy.

Def

[J-sews]

I like Def's idea of the letter P bend, but I'm wondering if brass might be too soft?


For as cheap as these things are......



eBay link

....maybe just pick up a set and use one of the hex wrenches to make your pin?

[Grant Lamontagne]

Yeah, brass would be too soft.  I just thought Tom might have access to other stuff as well.  Good point about the hex keys as they are already bent too.

Def

[Witmen]

Hey I'm already done.  This thing is Freakin awesome. It looks like a factory part.  I used J-sews idea and it went together real easy I didn't even have to trim the hex key down.  The only difficult part was get the notches they way I wanted them,  and of course I had to do two notches so that it will lock when open and the power lock close all the way when it's closed.  So that took a little work and I had to tighten the loop at the end some cause the hex key bolts were much larger then the sogs. But I love it. 

I tested it on my Glocks and it's effortless pin removal.  I couldn't be happier thanks for everyones help you guys kick ass.

[Benner]

We would love to see some pics. 

Welcome to the forum BTW. 

[Witmen]

Here it is in use.




I had to edit this post like 5 times to get the pic right.  oh well.

[Benner]

Looks damn good to me.  Good work! 

[Witmen]

Thanks benner I like it alot.  It increased my sog's handiness by at least 15%

[J-sews]

Nice job Witmen! 

Here it is in use.


(Image removed from quote.)

I had to edit this post like 5 times to get the pic right.  oh well.

Yes, but just think how quick it will go next time! 

[Roadie]

Nice work it looks very good! And welcome to the forum

[Grant Lamontagne]

Beauty!

Def

[Steel]

Very Cool. I took the V-cutter off my Powerlock 2.0 and replace it with a fully serrated sheepsfoot blade. I also replace my Combo edge main blade and replaced it with a Double ground straight blade. I found that the V-cutter doesn't stay sharp long once it dulls it is usless.

[J-sews]

Very Cool. I took the V-cutter off my Powerlock 2.0 and replace it with a fully serrated sheepsfoot blade. I also replace my Combo edge main blade and replaced it with a Double ground straight blade. I found that the V-cutter doesn't stay sharp long once it dulls it is usless.

Funny you mention that about the V-cutter dullness Steel. I just ran into that problem last week cutting paperboard. At some point the V-cutter just stops cutting and starts wadding.

The little razors are riveted in so you can't replace them. And it won't be easy to sharpen them either.

[Steel]

I think its made like that so you will have to buy another. I have the one I took ou of my PL 2.0 if you want it. It is the Black version.

[I'm Still Bison]

Welcome to the forums! I hope the people at SOG are looking in,you've shown how to increase the versatility of their tools with no major sugery.

[Witmen]

I'm actually going to make another one.  It works great the way it is now.  But a buddy of mine has a CNC machine and lathes and a lot of other cool toys that I had no idea about intill he saw my sog.  So I'm gonna try making one that is exactly like a factory sog component.

Oh and he ordered a s60 shortly after playin with mine. 

[J-sews]

I'm actually going to make another one.  It works great the way it is now.  But a buddy of mine has a CNC machine and lathes and a lot of other cool toys that I had no idea about intill he saw my sog.  So I'm gonna try making one that is exactly like a factory sog component.

Oh and he ordered a s60 shortly after playin with mine. 

Cool, I can't wait to see what you come up with. 


By the way, which component(s) did you remove to make room for the punch?

[Benner]

I'm actually going to make another one.  It works great the way it is now.  But a buddy of mine has a CNC machine and lathes and a lot of other cool toys that I had no idea about intill he saw my sog.  So I'm gonna try making one that is exactly like a factory sog component.

Oh and he ordered a s60 shortly after playin with mine. 

You'll have to get him to join the forum. 

[Witmen]

I had to remove the awl. which sorda sucks but oh well.  makes me wonder how there is room for people to double up on blades without removing something.