93mm with scissors

[pawn]

Hello everyone!

This weekend, I tried to put some scissors into a farmer and exchange the woodsaw for a metal file.
I used a solo spring for the scissors and the saw spring for the metal file (obviously).

The saw worked perfectly, but the scissors are a bit flobby and don't close nicely.

Do you guys do anything else than grinding a bit on the spring to make room for the scissor handles?

All parts were new, except the scales, which were very used old red ones. Fortunately the scales were used because DAMN PEENING ALOX SUCKS!!!!

I used a very small hammer and was super carefull but about 20% of the blows land on the scales, if you don't want any horizontal play in the blade left.
How do you do it? Any tips?

- pawn

[PTRSAK]

I'm in exactly the same situation with my Alox Explorer. I'm happy with everything except the closing of the scissors. The Solo spring needs a "ramp" ground on the inside where the end of the "free" scissor handle hits so it doesn't jam with the scissors slightly open and "deployed".
Also I think the Solo spring needs a bit more set on it to provide more tension to snap the scissors into the stowed position more firmly.
I will be breaking mine down again and giving the spring a bit of a tap with a hammer to bend it slightly for more tension.

I use a piece of leather with a hole in it to protect the scales when peening Alox. and I am also playing around with making a punch with a dished head to "finish" the riveting of the pins.

I did see a post where someone was using the reinforcement rings for punched notepaper. Six of them appeared to do a good job.

[Syph007]

There are actually 8 different variations of scissors over the years.  The older ones with the fatter thumb rest work way better with solo springs than the modern thin style.  Ive seen them with both riveted and screw pivot type, so I dont know when they changed.  When I was using solo springs for scissors the fatter handle type was the way to go and I only needed to grind a bit of spring and they closed just fine.

[pawn]

Aw, man! I have to look at home, if I have such a scissor.
Else I will just bend the spring a bit more, and hope it doesn't destroy anything.

@PTRSAK: My concern is not really with the shape of the end of the pins, but more with getting it tight enough. If I want a good fit, I have to hit the pins until they are under the level of the scale...

[jrp316]

Easiest way I've found to do it: get Syph to take care of it 

You'll get it, no worries...just keep grinding away at it (figuratively and literally).

[crackout]

My experience with scissors on 93mm knives are similiar.
If you use Solo springs you can't rest the scissors on the spring. The scissors' handle is the thing that defines the position of the locked tool. When grinding the solo spring to create a ramp where the handle slides along you have to be careful not to remove too much material or the tool will sit too deep inside the construction.

What I found is that the sweetspot for the ideal position does not a allow a full snap from around 50°. It stops due to the rest of the material that's kept on the spring to allow for a nice positioning. However, between 0° and 30° I get a full snap. Syph is right about the kinds of scissors, the older ones work better. I think the only 100% solution are his custom springs.

[Syph007]

My experience with scissors on 93mm knives are similiar.
If you use Solo springs you can't rest the scissors on the spring. The scissors' handle is the thing that defines the position of the locked tool. When grinding the solo spring to create a ramp where the handle slides along you have to be careful not to remove too much material or the tool will sit too deep inside the construction.

What I found is that the sweetspot for the ideal position does not a allow a full snap from around 50°. It stops due to the rest of the material that's kept on the spring to allow for a nice positioning. However, between 0° and 30° I get a full snap. Syph is right about the kinds of scissors, the older ones work better. I think the only 100% solution are his custom springs.

Exactly correct.   The handle determines the rest position and the snap is all done by the pivot on spring action.  You don't need a ramp, unless you can graft some metal onto the spring, which of course is an option, but more work. 

This is why the fatter handles worked better as they hold the scissors at a better stop position.  Last time I bought 20 scissors from tom all rivet type, half had fat handles half skinny, so its still possible to have the modern rivet type with a fat handle. 

[crackout]

I have a pair of riveted scissors with the fat handle. Those have a steel rivet.
Maybe that's the disinguishing point with the modern ones having silver nickel/brass rivets?

[Syph007]

I have a pair of riveted scissors with the fat handle. Those have a steel rivet.
Maybe that's the disinguishing point with the modern ones having silver nickel/brass rivets?

I have some modern skinny ones with steel rivet too.  So they are all over the place. 

[crackout]

Dammit.

[PTRSAK]

Dammit.

When was the last time you saw ANY SAK feature with a simple and consistent change-over in type or date?