Leatherman plier friction problems?

[anditsgone]

My supertool 300, Mut and Rebar had issues with the friction that keep the handles in the plier position, after a while it would get so sloppy that it would barely work in the plier position and open and rattle in my pocket, the leatherman Mut was basicly a balisong plier, there was no friction at all after 3 month of hard use. The supertool i haven't onwned of a long time so i have not really expirienced a problem there altought in the closed position the handles would not close completely because the part where the folded edge on the handle starts, that are portruded al little bit and so it wobbeld in the closed positon.
My leatherman rebar had the same problem, when new the friction is excellent but after half a year of use it is almost completly gone.

I just bought a leatherman wave and i wil see how that will hold up.

Are there guys out here that own a leatherman for 5+ years, is your friction completely gone? Does it annoy the crap out of you? is there a way to fix it?

I find it strange that the cheapest leatherman (wingman sidekick) has the best plier locking system?
I would love to see that lock system on new leatherman instead of the friction system.

[NKlamerus]

Have you tried tightening the screws?

[pingu]

I find it strange that the cheapest leatherman (wingman sidekick) has the best plier locking system?

Do you mean locking open or locking closed and what exactly do you mean by "locking"?

[anditsgone]

I find it strange that the cheapest leatherman (wingman sidekick) has the best plier locking system?

Do you mean locking open or locking closed and what exactly do you mean by "locking"?

The sidekick has springs that lock in a notch on the plier, thereby it locks firmly and for years to come in the closed and open position.
other leatherman's just have the friction on the bolts and the middle edge of the plier that is pushed against the handle top.

[anditsgone]

Have you tried tightening the screws?

That could be a soloution but on the wave/charge models the knife and saw etc would be hard to open.

[NKlamerus]

Have you tried tightening the screws?

That could be a soloution but on the wave/charge models the knife and saw etc would be hard to open.

It matters yes, but even an eighth of a turn has a huge affect on the pliers without messing with the saw/blade deployment.

I think finding the perfect tension was the hardest part of putting my Charge AL back together.

[SteveC]

Try tightening, there should be a happy median for the pliers and the OHO tools. You could also send it to Leatherman for warranty tune up.

[anditsgone]

I have loosen al the bolts on my wave because they where too tight, it is pretty difficult find the right tension, half a turn too lose and the tools just fall out, half a turn too tight and your nail breaks.

In europe tools are never repaired, they are always replaced so that is not an option.
I guess that tightening the bolts is the best solotion for classic style tools such as the rebar and supertool.
However the raised part on the plier where on the wave/charge model the blade safety slides by is not adjusteble and this was the part that whore of my mut and rebar.

[av8r1]

My main tool is the Skeletool, and the pliers on those are held open and closed with back spring snaps.  In four years, it didn't wear out.  My Wave is almost as old but not as worn.

Are you having a problem with the pliers staying open when you're using the tool, or staying closed in carry?

[pingu]

I find it strange that the cheapest leatherman (wingman sidekick) has the best plier locking system?

Do you mean locking open or locking closed and what exactly do you mean by "locking"?

The sidekick has springs that lock in a notch on the plier, thereby it locks firmly and for years to come in the closed and open position.
other leatherman's just have the friction on the bolts and the middle edge of the plier that is pushed against the handle top.

That reminds me of my Kick (rip) which had open friction via the slightly eccentric pivot against the handle as you describe.  Was unacceptably stiff. My Fuse has exactly the same system but is not over stiff.  Closed retention is just pivot to Zytel friction and easily adjusted.

You are right to highlight Wingman (spring against pivot flat in open and closed position).  Seems to work well with every expectation of lasting.  Speculating that Wingman needs good closed retention because of the sprung pliers.

Rebar has closed retention via two spring arms against pivot flats.  Same as Wingman.  If that fails that has to be a warranty issue.  Opening friction is the spring arms against the pivot and handle friction set by pivot torque.  Adjust to suit.  The fully open retention is the old eccentric pivot against the handle.  I could see that wearing with heavy use.  Probably a warranty issue.

Warranty is not an option for me because invariably my MTs are modded.  I would attempt adjustment.








 

[pingu]

I have loosen al the bolts on my wave because they where too tight, it is pretty difficult find the right tension, half a turn too lose and the tools just fall out, half a turn too tight and your nail breaks.

Yes half a turn is too much.  I use low strength thread lock and adjust a few degrees at a time.

[zoidberg]

There is another method that requires a hammer, nail punch and screwdriver.

I'll try and get some pics for you later showing where to do the adjusting work.

Ten points awarded if you can figure it out before I find time to take the pics.

[SteveC]

There is another method that requires a hammer, nail punch and screwdriver.

I'll try and get some pics for you later showing where to do the adjusting work.

Ten points awarded if you can figure it out before I find time to take the pics.

Nice !  Dr. Z to the rescue 

[pingu]

There is another method that requires a hammer, nail punch and screwdriver.

I'll try and get some pics for you later showing where to do the adjusting work.

Ten points awarded if you can figure it out before I find time to take the pics.

I suspect you are going to solve a too loose when closed up issue.  Regarding my Kick (rip) stiff to fully open issue would you have recommended filing the pivot or the handle?

[zoidberg]

There is another method that requires a hammer, nail punch and screwdriver.

I'll try and get some pics for you later showing where to do the adjusting work.

Ten points awarded if you can figure it out before I find time to take the pics.

I suspect you are going to solve a too loose when closed up issue.  Regarding my Kick (rip) stiff to fully open issue would you have recommended filing the pivot or the handle?

I was going to cover both.

In the past I've tried the pliers cam/wedge and the handle.

I find the nail punch and screwdriver much quicker and it can be adjusted both ways.

[pingu]

 

OK I realise I need a NZ clock on my desktop.

Added it and its smaller than the mother country clock

[zoidberg]

 

OK I realise I need a NZ clock on my desktop.

Added it and its smaller than the mother country clock

I'll try and get to it in the next couple days. 

[pingu]

 
Didn't mean to wake you up.  No hurry for my question,  Fuse handle stiffness is OK.

[anditsgone]

Today i used a blast from a friend of mine, the tool is 5 years old.
The plier friction in the open position is good, but closed is completely worn out.
If you hold the tool with one hand the other handle just falls out.

[pingu]

Today i used a blast from a friend of mine, the tool is 5 years old.
The plier friction in the open position is good, but closed is completely worn out.
If you hold the tool with one hand the other handle just falls out.

Blast closed friction is 100% pivot to Zytel.  Nip up the pivot.

[anditsgone]

Today i used a blast from a friend of mine, the tool is 5 years old.
The plier friction in the open position is good, but closed is completely worn out.
If you hold the tool with one hand the other handle just falls out.

Blast closed friction is 100% pivot to Zytel.  Nip up the pivot.

Is the plier pressing against the zytel insert?
That would mean that it weares out in a couple of weeks.

[pingu]

Today i used a blast from a friend of mine, the tool is 5 years old.
The plier friction in the open position is good, but closed is completely worn out.
If you hold the tool with one hand the other handle just falls out.

Blast closed friction is 100% pivot to Zytel.  Nip up the pivot.

Is the plier pressing against the zytel insert?
That would mean that it weares out in a couple of weeks.

There may or may not be a washer but that's the principle.   I don't think a couple of weeks is right.

[zoidberg]

Better late than never right.
This is my take on this, it works for me, YMMV.
Grab some beater tools, don't use your nice screwdrivers.

[zoidberg]

If the handles are loose in the plier mode.

Hit it here or near. You have to hit it pretty hard. Test between strikes.

[zoidberg]

It will look something like this old Surge handle.

[zoidberg]

If the handles are loose when closed.

This is where I hit. Test between strikes, feel which side needs the work.

[zoidberg]

If the pliers are removed then I use a vice/vise.

[zoidberg]

If the handles are too tight when deploying to plier mode.

Position the MT against something solid.
Note the vice isn't tightened, the MT is just sitting there.

[zoidberg]

You can tap the screwdriver in or use it to lever up with. Test and repeat.

[SteveC]

Excellent tutorial