What are the most important features that you look for in a light?

[David Quevedo]

Important things to me (in no particular order) are:

LED emitter. I can't think of a single reason to ever buy an incandescent light. The bulbs burn out or break, far too easily, and offer very poor performance, compared to today's nicer LED lights. Several years ago, it could be argued that the incandescent light produced a far more pleasant, warmer tint; but many of today's lights are available with so many different tint options (particularly if you're buying a P60 modular light), you can get literally just about any tint you would ever want, with all of the advantages of the incandescent, but none of the weaknesses.

Lithium Ion Battery Compatibility. I prefer a light that runs on the 18650 (or other high-performance lithium ion) battery. Over half of my lights run on this battery (not necessarily just EDC, but my lights, in general). This battery (The 18650, in particular) packs the most punch, for its size, and can be charged hundreds of times. It can easily support a high-powered light (600 plus OTF lumens), without voltage sag. I prefer to have extra power, whenever it may be needed, and smaller batteries are not able to deliver, performance-wise. Since I hugely took part in the Maglite phase (my first "serious" (chuckling) light, I grew accustomed to carrying a heavier light. We've come such a long way, since then, so my needs have changed pretty radically. Now, you can simply dial down the output on a multi-mode light, and have a nice lower-powered light, in that very same housing!

Regulated Output. I refuse to buy a direct drive light (A light that starts dimming, from the moment the voltage drops - pretty much every light in existence, ten or more years ago. I cannot stand that. That is an archaic design. I want that light to maintain its output, without dimming, for a good long while, within reason. A reputable high-powered light will maintain a certain output, before dropping to a lower output, to protect the electronics from overheating. I'm okay with that. After it falls out of regulation, then it can start behaving like an old-school direct drive light; but by that time, I'll already have swapped out the battery lol.

Glass lens. No more crappy plastic lenses for me. Why would a company even make a light like this any more? Glass offers more scratch resistance, better light transmittance. With a decent bezel, they're well-protected against breakage, when dropped. Are they completely shatter-proof? No, but I have never had a glass lens break on me, even when (occasionally) dropped on its head.

Waterproof to IP-X8 standards, at a bare minimum. I do not like "water-resistant" lights. I own very few of them (7 out of my 72 lights, thus far - and most of them are older Maglites (originally incandescent), the majority of which have been LED upgraded)). In this day and age, it's entirely possible to get a nicely water-proofed light that has a fantastic combination of both, spot and spill, so you don't have to focus the light to get a great beam. You can have the best of both worlds. That's one of the biggest weakness of the focusing light, and I think it's a fatal flaw in a flashlight - an old design. If I want a dedicated flood light, or a dedicated thrower, I'll use one; but then, I am a flashlight junkie, and I believe flashlights are tools; with each and every tool being task-specific; which is why I carry so many lights.

Dependable Interface. A light that I have to shake, bang against my palm, turn off and on again, just to make it work, is not a light worth having, in my book. I don't care how inexpensive the light is. It should just work. Period. A light should always come on, when you need it, and it should work dependably. Mode memory (always comes back on where you left it) is great, but not a deal-breaker, if not available, in that particular light. As long as if fits all the other criteria, I'm okay with it.

Tail Stand Capability. There's a real mixed crowd, when it comes to this feature. I admit, activating the light is easier, when the tail cap button sticks out; but it's also easier to accidentally turn the light on. I often use lights, to bounce light from the ceiling (They call that tail-standing). It's extremely useful, in many instances, rather than having to prop up a light, to do the same thing.

Forward Clicky (for momentary) Tail Switch. As long as at least one or two of my EDC lights has this feature, I'm fine. I'm not a fan of reverse clicky lights, for the most part.

Multi-light carry is not for everyone - especially for the minimalists. I am, most definitely NOT a minimalist. If you're happy carrying one light, I'm happy for you. More power to you. I need more than one light, and I don't mind the extra weight. It's not a big deal, but gives me far more options than carrying just one light.

I've heard some of the disparaging remarks all from all sorts of people, during these past three years, since Ive gotten way into the EDC thing - especially where lights are concerned.

"Squirrel Pockets", "McGuyver", "Batman", "Mr. Fix-It", "Inspector Gadget", "Light Man", .....whatever. It no longer bothers me. I have what I need when I need it. I am never without light. I laugh out loud when someone in my family (and who knows that I'm a self-professed flashaholic) asks me, "Do you have a flashlight handy?". My response is usually, "Just one?"

(That's how I justify my flashlight addiction. Works for me :p)

Things that are very low priority for me, in a new light purchase (for the most part) are:

Pocket clip (I almost never use them. I hate them. I prefer holster carrying a light, whenever possible. It's not possible, at work, so I resort to the dreaded pocket clip, carried inside a pocket.

super compact form factor (I'm too used to larger lights, to care if any light I carry is super compact.

sub-lumen output (nice to have, but I have plenty of lights that can do that, and I EDC two of them. It' not a must-have, for me, in a new light)

beacon/strobe/s.o.s. - again, nice feature(s), but not really necessary. I always have at lease one light, on-person, that will do all of those things. If a new light has those features, fine. If not, it's not the end of the world.

[AimlessWanderer]

What a way to make an entrance  Welcome aboard David 

I'm not as fussy as you, the main thing I look for is an ability to see in the dark 

Joking aside, LED emitter, AAA or AA, though I do have a few nice (to me) CR123s as well. A nice spread of modes, not bothered about the disco stuff, and an uncomplicated control (I HATE Zebralights). My favourite is the Sunwayman V10R.

Prefer forward clicky, but don't mind reverse clickies and twisties. I do like the light to be able to tail stand. Pocket clip in nice on single AA and above, keyring attachment on AAA (though again I do have clipped single AAA and clipless AA and CR123. Cost is another factor. While I do have a couple of £50+ lights, a Thrunite T10 or other lower cost light helps me see in the dark just as well.

Afterthoughts: Some degree of waterproofing is required. If it's ruined by using in the rain or dropping in a puddle, it's not much good to me. Another point is size, I need to be able to put it in my pocket. I don't sheath carry and very rarely bag carry. The largest light I carry is a 2xAA 4Sevens light, and that gets carried in the rule pocket of my work trousers

[comis]

Welcome to    Hope you do enjoy your stay!

For lights, here are the few things I look for(especially when travelling/hiking/camping)

1) Led--latest tech, efficient and give good hotspot
2) Reflector--a good spill and hotspot balance
3) Waterproof--to some degree
4) Twisty--the most reliable switch on earth, I don't mind clicky but they all fail at some point
5) Battery compatibility--I love lights that work with AAA or AA the best, but don't mind 2x123 and RCR123 compatible.
6) Ultra low--I love the lowest mode to give days of output, gives comfort that it could be used in survival situation
7) Light weight--too often we see CNC metallic body, I just wish more could be made in durable light weight plastic

[Aloha]

Greetings and yes a terrific entrance. 

[16VGTIDave]

For me, I have a few differing criteria:

- the only batteries of consideration are the ones a gas station store would have, so AA and AAA.
- Lights with mode memory are out - I never remember what the last used mode was, why should the light?
- decent CRI, so I can tell the difference between the blue and green wires.
- forward switch. Don't need no stinkin' "tactical switch" to navigate to the outhouse.
- positive lockout, so I don't get a warm feeling in my nether regions at the wrong time.

I guess you could say I'm a Zebralight fan, even though I only own one.

[NKlamerus]

WATERPROOF and preferably shock (drop) damage resistant.

Reliability is key. I'm always around water. Unfortunately my Preon 2 doesn't fit too well in either catagory.

The only other 2 things is must run on AA or AAA and can not be a Streamlight.

[NKlamerus]

Oh and welcome to the forum!

[David Quevedo]

Thanks for the warm welcome, you guys.  Much appreciated

[Man in the Moon]

1) An LED emitter (or the potential to modify with a drop in)
2) The ability to run well, or a least adequately, on single-use primaries.
3) long runtime ,or long runtime potential in low mode where a flashlight is dual output).
4) Availability of spare parts, in particular switches & switch boots.
5) A reasonable degree of water resistance.
6) Simple user interface.
7) A flashlight without silly strobes, SOS or beacon modes.
Glass lens or window
9) visual appeal.

Surefire do well with the dual output E series, however, extracting spares under warranty from Surefire can be time consuming.  FourSevens and Solarforce, at least in the UK, are good for spares (as are Fenix to a lesser extent), although Foursevens flashlights are rotten with strobes beacons & SOS modes.  The newer Fenix E12 looks promising, though the TRL appears vulnerable to scratches.

[N_N_R]

for me it's probably it's portability i.e. it has to be relatively small; then it has to use a common battery type; then a clip....

as for the modes and brightness, I think most manufacturers offer more or less the same nowadays

[SAK Guy]

For me......

Will it make me a chick magnet? 

[dks]

Chicks go for GEC. 

[Toolslinger]

For me......

Will it make me a chick magnet? 

[David Quevedo]

For me......

Will it make me a chick magnet? 

For me, this seems a little more effective:


This is Annie, a 2001 Alvarez AD-CK60 - solid Koa top, with a Baggs iBeam active pickup, installed, and some nice chrome Grover tuners.  Joel Grant, of Grant Guitars, did the setup for me, several years ago.  The thing plays beautifully, now .  Joel does stellar work with guitars.  He's been working on my guitars - on and off, since 1983.

Yes, I name my guitars.  Doesn't everyone?

The bottom rack box - minus that cheapo Behringer unit, which is not really in use, any longer  - is the (plugged-in) acoustic stuff. The top is for my electrics.

I've never met a woman, because I was carrying a flashlight; but almost invariably, when I'm walking around with a nice guitar case, in hand, the standard (not to mention, always welcome) questions will ensue, from at least one woman: 

"Are you a guitarist?"
"What kind of music do you play?"
"Are you in a band?"
"Any place I can go hear you play?"

A musical instrument is a great conversation starter.  I can't say that's ever happened to me, as a result of carrying flashlights, no matter how nice the lights were lol.


BOSS GT-10 processor - pretty much dedicated to my plugged in acoustic set-up.  I've been using their stuff since the mid 80's.  Extremely reliable stuff, and now, with this, I don't have to to the mad stomp box dance (All you electronic musicians will know exactly what I'm talking about lol).

This could be a whole other thread topic - a musician's thread. Any other musicians out there?