Looking for advice (EDC)

[Pile Driver]

I'd like to get myself a good EDC SAK, and was looking for suggestions, I work on the water but also split time in the office.

Two tools I'd like it to have would be a good rope cutting serrated edge and a bottle opener.

I'm not looking to spend an arm and a leg. I am getting into collecting, and I would want this to be something I could throw around, but maybe retire in a few years and have it hold value as part of my collecting.

[firiki]

Vic Soldier 2008 comes to mind.



Pic from SAKwiki

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

How about a Victorinox Skipper, Helmsman or a Mariner if you really need a serrated blade

Sent from my XT1021 using Tapatalk

[AimlessWanderer]

I'd suggest the slimmest OHO serrated or CE Rangergrip. Does anyone know without having to wade through every number listed on SAKwiki?

OHO can be very useful out on the water in my experience, and the "keyring" will serve as a good lanyard attachment point. Should be reasonably affordable too

[enki_ck]

Well if you really wanna go simple, try finding a Victorinox Weekender, aka Serrated Spartan. Supposedly they were recently available again in the US in some stores.

[Pile Driver]

I'd suggest the slimmest OHO serrated or CE Rangergrip. Does anyone know without having to wade through every number listed on SAKwiki?

OHO can be very useful out on the water in my experience, and the "keyring" will serve as a good lanyard attachment point. Should be reasonably affordable too

I'm liking the OHO over the water with the keyring/lanyard. Thanks for the advice

[AimlessWanderer]

50ft-trad is a type of boat  I know what it's like to try and clear a fouled prop and how quick you sometimes have to cut a line when it's doing something you don't want it to do  the Rangergrip should give you some good grip with wet hands too 

[twiliter]

Thinking Master RT here, a good OH user, and would still hold value retired. Maybe difficult to find, but worth it. A 111 Soldier is a good option, but not as collectable. http://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Master_111mm 

[twiliter]

Another good option would be a Farmer in any color but silver, still collectable, pocketable, and versatile. Has a KR/lanyard attachment but not a one-hander. Or the Midshipman with a marlinspike, very similar, very collectable, but more expensive and not as available. There are currently a few on eBay. 

[Grass]

Is the 111mm seat belt cutter good for rope? Perhaps a Dual Pro or Dual Pro X?

[Smaug]

Victorinox Skipper. It's a wonderful SAK. In addition to being sea-friendly, it has an inline #2 Phillips under the scissors. I just love mine. It was instantly one of my favorites.

Victorinox's serrated blade doesn't look as tough in pictures as some of the others', but WOW does it ever work a treat!

You also add a marlin spike, which I understand can be quite useful on a boat.



The serrated blade does really well in food service too. I use it to cut sausage and bread sometimes.

[WoodsDuck]

Somehow I knew Smaug would be in here to hawk the Skipper before long.

I must have the gift 

[AimlessWanderer]

Victorinox Skipper. It's a wonderful SAK. In addition to being sea-friendly, it has an inline #2 Phillips under the scissors. I just love mine. It was instantly one of my favorites.

Victorinox's serrated blade doesn't look as tough in pictures as some of the others', but WOW does it ever work a treat!

You also add a marlin spike, which I understand can be quite useful on a boat.



The serrated blade does really well in food service too. I use it to cut sausage and bread sometimes.

The marlin spike's usefulness will depend if lines are being spliced, and what size/type, though depending on the craft, the shackle key may be more useful. I would still strongly recommend an OHO serrated blade though, both for practicality and safety, so if the spike is indeed wanted, a modded SAK may be the way forwards.

Wasn't there a similar marlin spike on the Wengers which could go in a Rangergrip? The cost is starting to climb now though....

[comis]

Depending how much rope you might expect to cut and how abrasive are the ropes, I'd recommend the One-hand-opening plain edge Vic trekker.  Reason being Vic uses probably one of the most rust proof steel on MT market, OHO plain edge trekker is not too expensive and easy to resharpen.

Unless you have no access to sharpening tools, and need to continue cutting for a very long duration, then I will see advantage in using serration instead of plain edge.

[Zed]

What about the 111mm victorinox parachutist 

[NetsNJ]

A Wenger Serrated Highlander seems like good, economical, choice.  I have one.  You can track them down here and there for not too much.  If you plan to use it as a beater anyway, why not go used?  Here is one for $11 on eBay.
 


(Obligatory plug for Wenger complete.    )

[gene stoner]

OHO serated like a Forester or new Soldier on the end of a lanyard sounds like a good choice to me. I attache the lanyard to my belt and all I have to do is grab the lanyard run my hand down it to my knife and open it all with one hand.

[Caranthanus]

For the purpose ...

... a Dual Pro or Dual Pro X

+1 

[hiraethus]

Leatherman C33X.

[Demel]

Leatherman C33X. ok:

Actually that is a good suggestion. And if you want a couple drivers check out the c33tx.

[NetsNJ]

Leatherman C33X.

How is the rust resistance?  If he is working around water, an SAK might be a better bet. They just seem so much more rust resistant than LM products. My Rebar has rust spots just from sitting doing nothing.  SAKs are dang near rust-proof.

[firiki]

Thinking Master RT here, a good OH user, and would still hold value retired. Maybe difficult to find, but worth it. A 111 Soldier is a good option, but not as collectable. http://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Master_111mm 

I realise that the wood saw is probably useless on a boat*, but it adds an extra layer that apart from bringing the knife blade in the middle (hallelujah, Vic !!!) it also provides a better handle to grip on to. Also, I'd expect the Soldiers to hold some collectibility due to year stamp?

One-hand opening can be useful on a boat, so does a lanyard attachment point, as others have said

And there's also a OH Locksmith (wood saw and metal file/saw) but the link to the pic doesn't seem to be working.






*Until one end's up on some little island playing Robinson Crusoe  (Gods forbid).

[strmliner]

Depending how much rope you might expect to cut and how abrasive are the ropes, I'd recommend the One-hand-opening plain edge Vic trekker.  Reason being Vic uses probably one of the most rust proof steel on MT market, OHO plain edge trekker is not too expensive and easy to resharpen.

Unless you have no access to sharpening tools, and need to continue cutting for a very long duration, then I will see advantage in using serration instead of plain edge.

Actually, being an active sailor, I have to disagree Comis.  I keep my blades quite sharp, but when it comes to cutting line on a regular basis, a serrated blade is really the only way to go.

As for rust potential, it depends on the user and how often they clean/sharpen their pocket tools.  If you dry and clean it fairly regularly, then rust probably won't be an issue.  If you want to leave it in a drawer on the boat, then rust will probably be an issue.

For a pocket tool (ie, EDC) , the LM C33x isn't a bad recommendation in this case!   

[comis]

Depending how much rope you might expect to cut and how abrasive are the ropes, I'd recommend the One-hand-opening plain edge Vic trekker.  Reason being Vic uses probably one of the most rust proof steel on MT market, OHO plain edge trekker is not too expensive and easy to resharpen.

Unless you have no access to sharpening tools, and need to continue cutting for a very long duration, then I will see advantage in using serration instead of plain edge.

Actually, being an active sailor, I have to disagree Comis.  I keep my blades quite sharp, but when it comes to cutting line on a regular basis, a serrated blade is really the only way to go.

Thank you for your input, I am planning to make video to compare different MTs blade for edge retention, and do plan to use manila/hemp rope cutting as a test.  This post has sparked my interest to use two almost identical blade(OHO PE trekker vs OHO soldier) to compare their efficient and whether a serrated blade actually cuts longer.  I will try to use the same potion of the PE blade to cut rope, to be fair.

I think the following article offers a pretty objective views on "PE vs Serrated":
http://www.knifeart.com/plainbyjoeta.html

[strmliner]

Depending how much rope you might expect to cut and how abrasive are the ropes, I'd recommend the One-hand-opening plain edge Vic trekker.  Reason being Vic uses probably one of the most rust proof steel on MT market, OHO plain edge trekker is not too expensive and easy to resharpen.

Unless you have no access to sharpening tools, and need to continue cutting for a very long duration, then I will see advantage in using serration instead of plain edge.

Actually, being an active sailor, I have to disagree Comis.  I keep my blades quite sharp, but when it comes to cutting line on a regular basis, a serrated blade is really the only way to go.

Thank you for your input, I am planning to make video to compare different MTs blade for edge retention, and do plan to use manila/hemp rope cutting as a test.  This post has sparked my interest to use two almost identical blade(OHO PE trekker vs OHO soldier) to compare their efficient and whether a serrated blade actually cuts longer.  I will try to use the same potion of the PE blade to cut rope, to be fair.

I think the following article offers a pretty objective views on "PE vs Serrated":
http://www.knifeart.com/plainbyjoeta.html

Nice article...thanks for sharing!

If you want to test, you might include different types of lines along with the manilla/hemp.  I'd consider nylon and polyester lines, both braided and stranded.

For all my on-the-water activities, I regularly carry an SAK (Golfer or Cadet) in my pocket. This takes care of everything from cutting tape or sail materials, to small screwdriver needs, to opening beers.  On my belt is usually my original Gerber MP tool (Mr. Pinchy), which has both plain and serrated blades.  The serrated blade is used for cutting lines.  Any of the plain blades handle most/all other cutting chores.

On my power boat, I keep a Bucklite 4" folder handy, especially for fishing. It cuts small lines just fine.  When racing, my GIbberson rigging knife has done yeoman's duty for over 25 years cutting, prying, and splicing.  But when it comes to cutting higher performance lines, Mr. Pinchy's serrated blade or the Myerchin B300P (partially serrated blade) are really preferaable and quicker to cut with.

[comis]

Depending how much rope you might expect to cut and how abrasive are the ropes, I'd recommend the One-hand-opening plain edge Vic trekker.  Reason being Vic uses probably one of the most rust proof steel on MT market, OHO plain edge trekker is not too expensive and easy to resharpen.

Unless you have no access to sharpening tools, and need to continue cutting for a very long duration, then I will see advantage in using serration instead of plain edge.

Actually, being an active sailor, I have to disagree Comis.  I keep my blades quite sharp, but when it comes to cutting line on a regular basis, a serrated blade is really the only way to go.

Thank you for your input, I am planning to make video to compare different MTs blade for edge retention, and do plan to use manila/hemp rope cutting as a test.  This post has sparked my interest to use two almost identical blade(OHO PE trekker vs OHO soldier) to compare their efficient and whether a serrated blade actually cuts longer.  I will try to use the same potion of the PE blade to cut rope, to be fair.

I think the following article offers a pretty objective views on "PE vs Serrated":
http://www.knifeart.com/plainbyjoeta.html

Nice article...thanks for sharing!

If you want to test, you might include different types of lines along with the manilla/hemp.  I'd consider nylon and polyester lines, both braided and stranded.

For all my on-the-water activities, I regularly carry an SAK (Golfer or Cadet) in my pocket. This takes care of everything from cutting tape or sail materials, to small screwdriver needs, to opening beers.  On my belt is usually my original Gerber MP tool (Mr. Pinchy), which has both plain and serrated blades.  The serrated blade is used for cutting lines.  Any of the plain blades handle most/all other cutting chores.

On my power boat, I keep a Bucklite 4" folder handy, especially for fishing. It cuts small lines just fine.  When racing, my GIbberson rigging knife has done yeoman's duty for over 25 years cutting, prying, and splicing.  But when it comes to cutting higher performance lines, Mr. Pinchy's serrated blade or the Myerchin B300P (partially serrated blade) are really preferaable and quicker to cut with.

Those are some really solid ideas, and I think what I am going to do is make a separate test just to show 'serrated' vs 'non-serrated' knife on different types of ropes.(hopefully I could find what you have suggested).  I am also curious to see whether this will differ in day-to-day task.

For now, I plan to test with a 111mm Soldier(which has serration towards the front of blade) vs 111mm OHO plain edge trekker.  Would you or anyone suggest other kinds of blade that has both plain edge and serrated version, but same steel and identical in construction/handle?