Mora Club

[Grathr]

I have been playing with it all day and I like it a lot.
Its very comfortable to use and fits nicely in a jacket pocket. The handle is dual density. Softer outer layer, hard center (the area with the squares is hard)
The blade is small, but since its a fixed blade you can use every inch of it as hard as you like. Wich you have to, when taking down a sapling like in the pic below. It was hard work, half cutting and half prying it into submission.

The sheath really could use a belt loop or something for when you are not wearing a jacket though. I have an idea for a carbiner mount for it that I will try to make this evening.
Also I tried using it for breaking down some cartboard boxes. It worked, but not as well as my spydies or benchmade . The scandi grind really isnt the best for that kind of work.

Awesome!!!  Saw this on another site....fits here.

Not my pic...

Thats almost a full length tang 

[styx]

got my Companion in some action today. boar meat. the Opinel is there to keep it company

[eamo]

got my Companion in some action today. boar meat. the Opinel is there to keep it company

 

[Gareth]

I have been playing with it all day and I like it a lot.
Its very comfortable to use and fits nicely in a jacket pocket. The handle is dual density. Softer outer layer, hard center (the area with the squares is hard)
The blade is small, but since its a fixed blade you can use every inch of it as hard as you like. Wich you have to, when taking down a sapling like in the pic below. It was hard work, half cutting and half prying it into submission.

The sheath really could use a belt loop or something for when you are not wearing a jacket though. I have an idea for a carbiner mount for it that I will try to make this evening.
Also I tried using it for breaking down some cartboard boxes. It worked, but not as well as my spydies or benchmade . The scandi grind really isnt the best for that kind of work.

Awesome!!!  Saw this on another site....fits here.

Not my pic...

Thats almost a full length tang 

IIRC the Mora 2000 blade has a pretty long/wide tang on it.  I'm guessing that it'll be the same on the Kansbol.

[Grathr]

The sheath mod i did to the Eldris.
Now I can clip it to a beltloop or a backpack.

[SteveC]

 

[SAK Guy]

+1!!! Awesome mod!!!!!

[Gareth]

That looks like it'll do the trick.

[ducttapetech]

Very nice Gaute. Also congrats on the new Mora.

[Grathr]

Thanks guys!

[AlephZero]

Great work Gaute!

I really like the Eldris, the problem for me is that I need to buy two... I really want to mix and match the red and green knifes and sheaths 

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

I decided I needed a couple new carving knives so I dug out my box of Swedish surplus Mora. I bought two dozen of these sometime on the 90’s. The boxes have $4.95 each written on them, but I vaguely recall a discount for purchasing a full box.  Over the years they’ve been given away, re-handled and a few disappeared…I’m down to 7 unaltered ones. They are laminated KJ Erikksson 1/0s..I estimate 60’s or 70’s vintage and probably issued as workshop knives.

These 1/0s and a 106 are my favorite pairing for carving.

First thing I did was to grind down the spines to a long taper…giving me a profile like a beefy 106.. These are old school riveted tangs, so I had to grind and drive them out. I used half of a #2 handle as a template.

I use a standard length brad-pointed drill first…I find using a long drill first normally results in a crooked hole from drift. In this project I drilled a 3/16-1/4” stepped hole because the taper of the tang…normally for a Puukko blade I only drill ¼”

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

The slot is made with a tang saw. I’m using a Japanese Hikimawashi Nokogiri keyhole saw…which at 4” is long enough for most fittings. If I’m lucky, I can get a light drive-on fit for the last inch or so.

The step for the ferrule is roughed out by saw and fitted by carving. Next is to epoxy the blade in. I only use Devcon 2-ton on my knives…one reason is for a longer setting time. I tape up the gaps in the ferrule and clamp the knife tip down…so the epoxy flows and fills any gaps at the front of the handle.

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

I start working the handle shape by “flats”…it helps me keep blade alignment and symmetry.

The progression is roughed out square then hexagon. From this point it’s knocking off the corners, then knocking off those corners…think filing a square bar into a rod.

Birdseye Maple

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

Another pair with unaltered blades and Masur Birch handles. I'm putting knives together to fill a new carving roll.

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

My old carving roll

[ducttapetech]

Nice Spork! I love your old roll also.

[Grathr]

 
Beautiful work!

[styx]

Those turned out amazing

[SteveC]

Very nice work 

[Sparky415]

 

Great looking gear/work there Spork 

[Aloha]

What they all said 

[ThePeacent]

[Grathr]

(Image removed from quote.)

There are much drool over in that pic

[captain spaulding]

Amazing work!

[Zed]

My 510 with the burner that Tony made for me 

[Gareth]

I start working the handle shape by “flats”…it helps me keep blade alignment and symmetry.

The progression is roughed out square then hexagon. From this point it’s knocking off the corners, then knocking off those corners…think filing a square bar into a rod.

Birdseye Maple

Stunning work as always mate.

[SAK Guy]

Awesome stuff guys!!!!

[Sparky415]

Shiny 

Nice picture Paul 

[Gerhard Gerber]

I start working the handle shape by “flats”…it helps me keep blade alignment and symmetry.

The progression is roughed out square then hexagon. From this point it’s knocking off the corners, then knocking off those corners…think filing a square bar into a rod.

Birdseye Maple

Excellent work Spork!