Loose Backspring Awl?

[mcrib]

In about 2 months, I've amassed a pretty good size collection of used and new SAKs. One thing I've noticed is that about half of the ones that includes the backspring awl have a bit of blade (awl) play in them. The other backspring tools like the hook or the corkscrew don't have the play though.

Is this common with other users, or do I just have bad luck? I think it's weird since it doesn't really seem like a tool that sees much use for most people.   

Thank you!

[jaya_man]

Most used saks are more than likely to be abused by their former owners... never have I found the case for brand new ones...

Just pop the scales, get a peen ball hammer and tap on the middle pin that holds the back tools... tap and check often for play... be careful not to overpeen though...


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[SAK Guy]

Most used saks are more than likely to be abused by their former owners... never have I found the case for brand new ones...

Just pop the scales, get a peen ball hamer and tap on the middle pin than holds the back tools... tap and check often for play... be careful not to overpeen though...


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+100!!! The backside tools are subjected to a lot of torque by novices who are unaware of the knife's limitations. Broken/bent/loose corkscrews are my most often seen damage on used ones.

[El Corkscrew]

Broken/bent/loose corkscrews are my most often seen damage on used ones.

+1   Corkscrews are my usual suspect, they bend a lot, I've noticed this especially on older multi-layers like Champions.

Never encountered too many reamer/punch problems,  I have seen them broken off about halfway a time or two but scarcely. 

Up there with corkscrew problems are small blade problems. 

[MacGyver]

I must be a lucky guy then, never had any problems with used Sak's so far. 
But then again i only have 4 used ones... 

[El Corkscrew]

I must be a lucky guy then, never had any problems with used Sak's so far. 
But then again i only have 4 used ones... 

My house is basically where used SAKs go to die.

[mcrib]

The used reamer/punch/awls I've come across all seemed unused except for some accidental closing on the key ring. Which is why it surprised me that they had so much play.

Anyways I took Jaya_man's advice and took the scales off and peened the pivot of one of my Spartans. After I bought a ball peen hammer and vise/anvil that is. The awl is nice and play free now.

I hate the idea of removing scales because I feel like I'm ruining them, and buying replacement scales often costs more than the used SAKs themselves. I'm still not completely confident with the saks I've reattached scales using super glue though. On the plus side, I was able to repair a crack in the scale from the inside with super glue that was bugging me.

Oh by the way, I also peened the bottle opener pivot because that also had some play. Everything seemed nice, smooth and snappy until I glued the scales back on. Then it all became very tight and unsnappy. That actually really surprised me. I'm not sure if it was because of the pressure I used to squeeze the scales back on or the glue possibly seeping into the pivot (this seems unlikely). Anyways, I'm not sure if this was the best way, but I used my new vise to clamp down the bottle opener and applied abusive force twisting, pushing, and pulling the handle to loosen the pivot. Eventually it finally worked.

Now my most irritating spartan is one of my favorites!


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[jaya_man]

Glue getting into the pivots is my guess...

Heat/warm the scales prior to opening... I use a hair dryer to di this... Soaking in luke warm water should also do it. This should prevent the scales from damage... And should snap back on without the need for glue...


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[MacGyver]

I hate the idea of removing scales because I feel like I'm ruining them, and buying replacement scales often costs more than the used SAKs themselves. I'm still not completely confident with the saks I've reattached scales using super glue though. On the plus side, I was able to repair a crack in the scale from the inside with super glue that was bugging me.

Oh by the way, I also peened the bottle opener pivot because that also had some play. Everything seemed nice, smooth and snappy until I glued the scales back on. Then it all became very tight and unsnappy. That actually really surprised me. I'm not sure if it was because of the pressure I used to squeeze the scales back on or the glue possibly seeping into the pivot (this seems unlikely). Anyways, I'm not sure if this was the best way, but I used my new vise to clamp down the bottle opener and applied abusive force twisting, pushing, and pulling the handle to loosen the pivot. Eventually it finally worked.

Now my most irritating spartan is one of my favorites!


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If you are near the Vic Rep/Importer in your country you can try and buy scales and parts directly from them, and not on retail stores on on-line where the prices for those often border on the absurd...
I always get new sets of scales every time i stop by my Vic Rep to get something, it's about €1,5 a pair (normal red 84 or 91mm).

About removing scales, from experience the best way for me is to insert a long thin Allen wrench on the T&T slots (close to the slot wall) and pop it up carefully but firmly. You won't damage or marr the side of the scale this way like you probably would prying it with a blade.
If i have to glue back the old ones i always use Araldite or some kind of epoxy glue type (not superglue), and only apply a very small amount with a toothpick around the inside of the scale's rivet holes. That's enough to secure the scales rock tight again when it dries, and i can take them off relatively easy again if i need to some day.

Regarding the tools feeling a bit stiff (esp. the can opener) after you apply pressure to fit the scales, it's normal the first few times you open it. Just open and close a few times and it will get back to normal (providing no glue got in the pivot point's, that is...)

[mcrib]

Glue getting into the pivots is my guess...

Heat/warm the scales prior to opening... I use a hair dryer to di this... Soaking in luke warm water should also do it. This should prevent the scales from damage... And should snap back on without the need for glue...


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SAK collecting has been an interesting journey. I tried using the luke warm water trick for the first time yesterday and it did work a little better but still found one pivot each side where slivers of the pivot hole shaved off. Probably need to practice more.

If you are near the Vic Rep/Importer in your country you can try and buy scales and parts directly from them, and not on retail stores on on-line where the prices for those often border on the absurd...
I always get new sets of scales every time i stop by my Vic Rep to get something, it's about €1,5 a pair (normal red 84 or 91mm).

About removing scales, from experience the best way for me is to insert a long thin Allen wrench on the T&T slots (close to the slot wall) and pop it up carefully but firmly. You won't damage or marr the side of the scale this way like you probably would prying it with a blade.
If i have to glue back the old ones i always use Araldite or some kind of epoxy glue type (not superglue), and only apply a very small amount with a toothpick around the inside of the scale's rivet holes. That's enough to secure the scales rock tight again when it dries, and i can take them off relatively easy again if i need to some day.

Regarding the tools feeling a bit stiff (esp. the can opener) after you apply pressure to fit the scales, it's normal the first few times you open it. Just open and close a few times and it will get back to normal (providing no glue got in the pivot point's, that is...)

There actually was once a Victorinox store near me but has now since closed. I bought a Rally there before I became SAK crazy. Seems like the only retailers I see are departmentt stores.  I'd love to purchase scales for $1.69 US though!

I like the idea of super glue because early in my SAK collecting journey (2 months ago!  ) I put a drop of super glue on the cellidor and noticed it melt into it and seemed like it actually became a part of the cellidor, so it felt natural to use this to help bond the scales back onto the knife. At the same time, I had to remove a scale that was previously super glued on, and I was able to scrape off the leftover glue residue, which shouldn't be possible if the super glue and cellidor is one, before super gluing it back on. I think there may have been left over oil on the surface that maybe didn't create a good bond. I'm afraid to use epoxy in general because it just feels too permanent.

I will have to try the allen wrench method. I've been using a Wenger small blade to pry the scales off which works ok. Wenger blades are so thin compared to Victorinox.

The stiffness after putting on the scales definitely did no go away after moving the bottle opener hundreds of times while binge watching a tv show. So it probably was the glue, but after applying abusive force onto the tool, the pivot loosened up slowly but surely.

As an aside I just now applied that same vise method on a seized up climber that I thought was dead and brought it back to life! Previously,I tried every method I've read about on this forum. Soaking in warm soapy water, wd40, solvents and working the tools an embarrassing amount of times. I think it may have had sand in the pivots that loosened up after cranking on it laterally in the vise.