Excellent write up and investigation 

You have to wonder at some of the cheaper companies including a tool that can't even be used! 

Awesome comparisons RP...

Forgot if I tried to use the LM/Wenger can opener design, they cut in clockwise/backwards motion right? As opposed to the forward motion of Vic’s?

Great review, pics and work on this RP Stuff like this gets overlooked sometimes and I miss threads like this completly Glad I found this gem though

Thanks guys! 
It's been a lot of fun. 

Excellent write up and investigation 

You have to wonder at some of the cheaper companies including a tool that can't even be used! 

I guess they do not expect their tools to be used by those who buy them. 
Not that you can call those cheapos collection pieces. Well, some people do, but still.

Even good brands occasionally mess the can opener up. Look at the BuckTool.

Awesome comparisons RP...

Forgot if I tried to use the LM/Wenger can opener design, they cut in clockwise/backwards motion right? As opposed to the forward motion of Vic’s?

Yes, Leatherman and Wenger claws are designed to go backwards, aka with the can staying still, you go clockwise as you cut. Or, you spin the can counter-clockwise as you cut.
With Victorinox and other quarter-circles, you go forward, so with the can staying still, you go counter-clockwise. Or, you spin the can clockwise as you cut.

You can of course go in the opposite direction to the supposed right way for each design. Not as quick though.

Great review, pics and work on this RP Stuff like this gets overlooked sometimes and I miss threads like this completely Glad I found this gem though

Better late than never. 

A few familiar faces. Revisiting the Wenger Highlander and Buck BuckTool, and trying out two more quarter-circles from Victorinox, the Cadet and Farmer.



Note the excellent placement of the can opener on the Swiss Army Knives. And then there's the Buck.

BuckTool (left-handed)
Seeing how badly they placed the can opener on this, it almost looks like a left-handed can opener. Having used it right-handed, with terrible results, I thought I'd try left-handed.
A bit awkward to use the non-dominant hand, but it worked. Despite the awkwardness, slipping, jamming, and ghost cuts, it eventually worked, and much better than with my right hand.

2 points for punching through. It hooks better onto the rim, since it is more to the right of the handle than to the left.
1 for comfort. The handles are nicely rounded, but then again, so is a pencil. It does not mean I can write with my left hand.
1 for not jamming. The nail-nick kept getting caught on the remnants of the edge on the wall of the can.
1 for cutting. Not every push yielded a cut. It kept slipping and jamming, delaying an already frustrating process.
1 for not slipping.
Total: 6



The can opener is commonly placed on the left-most side of the handle, allowing it to hook onto the rim, without having the left corner of the handle getting in the way. Ideally, the only thing touching the can will be the hook, under the rim, and the piercing point on the top of the can, right next to the rim. If a can opener is placed too far to the right of the handle, then the handle will get in the way of the hook, forcing the piercing point away from the rim.

Top: Leatherman Core & Wenger Highlander. Correct placement; the handle does not get in the way.
Bottom: BuckTool with right hand (barely hooking onto the rim) & BuckTool with left hand (not as bad, but I am not left-handed).



Wenger Highlander
Another surprising revisit, the Highlander claimed its place in the 'perfect 10' club. Rather than sinking the entire claw in the can, I was watching the harpoon barb closely, so it would not go past the top and get stuck. It worked wonders. I did not get stuck at all, while cutting consistently and cleanly. Perhaps slightly slower than I would have with a Leatherman claw, but still quick and easy enough not to remove any points. All it takes is to simply not jab the entire claw in the can.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10

Victorinox Farmer
Identical can opener to the one on 91mm models. And identical performance. Nice, thin and properly sharpened edge, great ergonomics. No jamming, and a beautiful cut, with a little bit of slipping. Could it be the polished finish? Is the hook too rounded?

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
1 for not slipping.
Total: 9



Victorinox Cadet
The identical design, just shrunk down a little. Surprisingly, this small difference in size worked in its favor, allowing for a consistent, clean cut, with no slipping whatsoever. I managed to stay on the rim of the can for the entirety of the cut. Excellent.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10

could the slipping issue be due to hand size?

could the slipping issue be due to hand size?

I have large hands. I did not slip with the Cadet, and it's tiny. But I slipped with all other Victorinox can openers, and the MP400, but not the PPP. 

so that theory might hold water

And possibly some fruit chunks cooked in it.

This time, we are looking at the Leatherman Signal, and two Victorinox 111mm liner-lock models, the Fireman, and the OHO Trekker. We will also be revisiting the Wenger 06 - Mountaineer.

Leatherman Signal
The hammer prevents the handles to close with the can opener deployed. You will have to either open one handle, or both. With both handles open it was a bit better in the hand, and given that this is the standard locking claw, found on the Core, Charge, and Rebar, it performed just as well. Easy and consistent cutting, with nothing to be concerned about.

2 points for punching through.
1 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 9



Wenger 06 - Mountaineer
Having identified the cause of Wenger claws getting stuck, I was able to get it to cut with no issues. Watch the edge, do not push the entire length of it past the top of the can, and all will be fine. The blade spine was still a little annoying, but at least it did not get stuck, and the cut was consistent and clean.

2 points for punching through.
1 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 9

Victorinox Fireman (liner-lock)
No surprises here. This is the identical can opener that the 91mm and 93mm models use. Very sharp, it cuts very well, and the only issue I seem to have is slipping off the rim now and then. I am definitely getting better with the quarter-circle design, and you cannot argue with how well it cuts.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
1 for not slipping.
Total: 9



Victorinox OHO Trekker (liner-lock)
The only difference between this and the Fireman is ergonomics. The blade's thumb-hole that allows for one-handed deployment creates a considerably large hump that digs into my hand. Nothing too major, but the Fireman was slightly better.

2 points for punching through.
1 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
1 for not slipping.
Total: 8

Next on the list, some can openers we have seen before, on bodies we have not. Victorinox RangerGrip 79 and Hercules, Leatherman Surge and Sideclip.

Leatherman Surge
No surprises here. The same great claw found in the Core. Locking, great angle and edge, it punched through as if the can top wasn't there. No slipping, no jamming, and great cutting, leaving no sharp points or edges. The ergonomics take a small hit for the blade spine and a few edges that could be rounder. Still, not at all worrying.

2 points for punching through.
1 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 9



Leatherman Sideclip
The identical can opener as in the PST, this performed just as beautifully. Excellent piercing, cutting, and ergonomics, with no jamming or slipping off the rim. Having no lock made no difference, as it has more than adequate tension to remain open. The same performance as its larger siblings, only in a smaller, lighter, and more comfortable package. Outstanding.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10

Victorinox Hercules
111mm slidelock model. When it comes to can openers, the only difference between slide-lock and liner-lock models is that on slide-locks the can opener is more inline to the handle, whereas on the liner-lock models it is more canted forward. Thus, we have a light difference in the angle of the handle when cutting, but it is the same can opener found on both. The can opener is also identical to the one in the 91mm and 93mm range.

Hercules (slide-lock) and Fireman (liner-lock)


Fireman on top.


It is interesting to note that I did not slip with this. Quite surprising, considering quarter-circles tend to slip on me. Comparing its can opener to the Cadet's, the main difference is size. Seeing how the Cadet did not slip me at all, I made smaller cuts with the Hercules can opener, and it worked. Treating it as if it were smaller, I did not slip off the can at all. It cut beautifully, and its wide frame provided a nice, comfortable grip.
I will be revisiting the quarter-circles that I slipped off the can with, to see if my technique has improved.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10



Victorinox RangerGrip 79
I will definitely be revisiting other quarter-circles, since I did not slip with this one either. Again, the same can opener as in 91, 93, and 111mm models. As with the Hercules one, I made smaller cuts with this than it could. It may have taken a little longer than with a  Leatherman claw but I managed to stay on the rim, so it was definitely quicker than if I were slipping off of it. Great cutter, no jamming. The blade spine does protrude from the body, so not a perfect 10, but a great choice nonetheless.

2 points for punching through.
1 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 9

Very interesting! 

is that Surge the first large LM to go under 10

Very interesting! 

 

is that Surge the first large LM to go under 10

The Charge got a 9, then the Signal, and the Surge, all for ergonomics.

The list so far.
Asterisks will be tested again. They lost a point to slipping, which might have to do with my technique. I managed not to slip with the Hercules and 130mm quarter-circle, which is the same in 91, 93, 111 LL models, and very similar to the Spirit and MP400, so they might not slip on me now.

10 - Core
10 - Rebar
10 - PST
10 - SuperTool 200
10 - SideClip
10 - Wenger Highlander
10 - Victorinox Cadet
10 - Victorinox Hercules

9* - Spirit
9* - Fireman LL
9* - SwissChamp
9* - Deluxe Tinker
9* - Farmer
9* - MP400

9 - Charge
9 - Signal
9 - Surge
9 - Wingman
9 - Ganzo G302
9 - Safari Hunter
9 - Wenger Ranger 06 - Mountaineer
9 - Wenger RangerGrip 60
9 - Victorinox RangerGrip 79

8* - OHO Trekker

8 - Bear Jaws
8 - Mini-Tool
8 - SOG  PPP
8 - Victorinox Bantam

7 - Craftright
7 - Juice
7 - PowerLock

6 - Roxon Storm (modded)
6 - BuckTool (left-handed)
4 - Schrade TT
4 - Coast
3 - BuckTool
3 - WorkPro scissors
0 - Roxon Storm
0 - Shefield 10 in 1

Today we will be going full circle, as we revisit four quarter-circles, the Victorinox SwissChamp, Deluxe Tinker, and Spirit, and the Gerber MP400.

These had all lost a point to slipping. There are many variables which can lead to slipping off the rim as you cut. Not only the tool itself with a badly formed or over-polished hook, bad placement, too blunt an edge, or terrible ergonomics messing up your grip, but also a polished or too narrow can rim, paper label getting in the way of the hook, or even user error, such as improper grip, excessive eagerness to get the can open, not concentrating properly on what they're doing.
So how did these do? Let's see.

Victorinox Deluxe Tinker
Being a Victorinox, the Deluxe Tinker helps eliminate a few of the possible causes for slipping off the rim. Taking into account the Cadet's excellent performance, I started with long cuts, and indeed slipped. Then I advanced with shorter cuts, and the slipping went away. It seems that, at least some slips were caused by the flathead contacting the can lid, and it being blunt, prying the edge out out of the can when I did not expect it to. Making shorter cuts helped keep the flathead out of the way and make the process consistent, with no slipping.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10



Victorinox SwissChamp
Identical can opener to the D. Tinker's. Having used the Tinker before it, I knew what had to be done, and went straight with shorter cuts than I would have. No slipping occurred, just a nice, consistent cut.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10

Victorinox Spirit
Essentially the same can opener yet again, this was easy enough to deal with. My technique is far from perfect or fast, but I managed to stay on the can. It helps that this is sharp, and extremely ergonomic. Despite its width compared to the D. Tinker, this is just as nice in the hand. And now that it does not slip on me anymore, I like it even more. I still need to be a bit mindful to keep on the cut, and probably could have afforded slightly longer cuts, judging by the mostly bending I did at the end.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10



Gerber MP400
The same basic design, but not as sharp. More of a bender than a cutter, especially compared to the sharper Victorinox quarter-circle. Nothing wrong with it, though. It still punches easily through the lid, and despite the pliers tips sticking out of one end, and the buttons from the sides, this is very nice in the hand. My thumb was on the locking tab, nice and wide surface, and nothing dug into my hand or fingers. You would not think it would be this comfortable, but it is, at least in my hand. I would have preferred a sharper edge on this, but it is still excellent, and the edges it leaves behind are not jagged or pointy. And if I go slow, I do not slip off the rim.

No flathead on this, so maybe the reason for slipping with the Victorinox can openers was not the flathead after all. It might have contributed a little, but I think I can blame my technique. How close I cut to the rim, how deep I push the edge, how much of the edge I retract, how I advance the edge and hook to perform the next cut. Nevertheless, the result remains. These punch through easily, are great in the hand, do not jam into the lid at all, and do consistent, smooth cuts, and you can manage not to slip. Even if you do, you'll still open the can with no issues. I might slip every now and then, but I see no reason to deduct a point for what seems like an error solely on my side, rather than the tools being used, which are, after all, proven to be very effective and dependable.

2 points for punching through.
2 for comfort.
2 for not jamming.
2 for cutting.
2 for not slipping.
Total: 10

  

Retesting some quarter-circles, the Victorinox OHO Trekker (liner-lock), Fireman (liner-lock), and Farmer, and also using the Sportsman, to compare to the Cadet.