ZapWizard's Leatherman Free P4 Mods

[Wspeed]

Looking good 

[ZapWizard]

Received my 4mm bit holder and tabs for my P4 and installed everything. Looking good, although I had some issues with the print.

Glad you were able to get the issues fixed. I have had about four folks get the 4mm with the middle hole filled, even with a special note on my build for their post-processing folks to ensure it is clear.
Tolerances are always a bitch. Some 4mm bits aren't 4mm, sometimes they bake the part a bit longer and it comes out too small. I have to error on the side of a bit too large to ensure people don't get completely unusable parts.
The flat bit holder is just simpler, so it is what I am recommending to folks, but on YouTube the 4mm has about 100x the number of views. But right now its about a 50% split on which one folks chose.

Rub and buff looks good. If you want a high chrome finish the secret is to use a Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker. They work great on the nylon.

[Matpar_McWolfie]

Glad you were able to get the issues fixed. I have had about four folks get the 4mm with the middle hole filled, even with a special note on my build for their post-processing folks to ensure it is clear.
Tolerances are always a bitch. Some 4mm bits aren't 4mm, sometimes they bake the part a bit longer and it comes out too small. I have to error on the side of a bit too large to ensure people don't get completely unusable parts.
The flat bit holder is just simpler, so it is what I am recommending to folks, but on YouTube the 4mm has about 100x the number of views. But right now its about a 50% split on which one folks chose.

Rub and buff looks good. If you want a high chrome finish the secret is to use a Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker. They work great on the nylon.

Oh yeah I heard about Molotow. Great stuff. I saw Adam Savage use the refill with an air brush on Youtube. You couldn't tell the difference with polished aluminium.

For the bit holder, the bottle opener kept me from switching to the flat bit version, although it was a close call. But I cut myself way too many times prying out a cap with a lighter and having the whole bottle neck come off completely. Also, the 4mm allows me to have tiny screwdrivers, as the one on the Charge TTI, which I used on a daily basis before buying the P4.

As for the printing issues, I can't really complain. the design is awesome, and the issues I had were in no way major. As you mentionned, 4 mm bits aren't always 4 mm. Mine are sitting at 3.95 mm, where the bit holder had a 4.2 mm opening, "pre-squeezing".

All in all, I have an awesome tool by my side at any time, thanks to you! Can't wait to see your progress on the blade holder.                               

[Poncho65]

Glad to see that this design has come to fruition and that peeps are getting use out of it

[hbcorpse]

[Poncho65]

 

[Rapidray]

 
 

[JC]

Well don't count your chickens until they hatch. There are a few issues with the current T-Shank holder that I am trying to work out.

• The nylon and metal don't have the same shrink ratio. So despite having identical geometry for say opening/locking, it works perfectly on the metal, and it binding on the nylon. Also the nylon thickness expanded compared to the CAD model by 0.2mm. Small, but big enough that it is causing issues with smooth deployment.
• The nylon spring works, but ends up flexing the whole piece a bit, making smooth operation with a thick blade problematic.
• The stainless steel material used is not highly magnetic, so the T-Shank isn't staying docked as well as it should, exasperated by the low amount of contact surface to the magnet.

I am re-designing it yet again, trying to put more metal against he magnet, and working around the various thickness issues. So no promises on when it will be available

Just wanted to say you do really impressive work and I'm really looking forward to this one. Do you think it would be possible to swap a second one in place of the serrated blade as well so that two could be carried? My thinking would be to have the removable file and a metal saw on board at all times.

[ZapWizard]

Do you think it would be possible to swap a second one in place of the serrated blade as well so that two could be carried? My thinking would be to have the removable file and a metal saw on board at all times.

If you really wanted to, you might be able do to that, if you also moved around some of the other tools, but you wouldn't be able to have my flat bit holder and the t-shank holder on the same side.

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Ya progress finally!!! 
I have been cracking at this damn T-Shank holder for a while now. With two physical prototypes, and probably a dozen re-designs from scratch. I tried even to do several designs using more traditional fabrication methods.

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I am back to a 3D printed, two-half, stainless-steel bronze alloy design. Similar to Rev 1. I decided that set-screws are the way to go. They are reliable and strong. It will also allow for any thickness of blade up to 2mm.
I also figure that most folks, like myself, won't be swapping out the blades very often. I really only want my Diamond file back. I may put some other blades in a tin in the back of the car for just-in-case events.

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Even though you could keep an Allen key with your spare blades; It sucks to not have the tool at hand. So I have a small hex opening at the bottom which could hold a cut-down Allen key. (I don't know if this will be viable yet)
As before: One-half has a recess for the T-Shank blade to sit in. The other half is dove-tailed. It mates in such a way that, even under the pressure of the set-screws, the two halves shouldn't easily be able to separate.
Also, that tiny eye-glass screw driver that comes with the Wave/Charge, and Leatherman Flat-bit kit is also 1.5mm Hex, so it could be stored there also.

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This design also has more metal down near the magnet, (The flat area to the left of the Allen key) so it should hold better when docked.

This design would require two M3x3mm set-screws, and an Allen key, both are very cheap
I may offer a alternate SKU where for a few bucks extra I will ship out the parts by envelope (US only).

However, it also would not come tapped. That would be something folks would have to do after they get the part. I might be able to offer a completed kit on Esty.

I have to study on this design for a bit before I order a prototype. I may add something to make it easier to separate the two halves.

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In other news: I should have the Leatherman Surge thumb-tab, and T2/T4 Thumb-tab final prototypes arriving in the next 7-10 days.
I also had to update the Surge holster design to be compatible with the Thumb-tabs. It is actually quite a chore each time there is a design change to the holsters, as I have so many unique configurations to update and export.

[Poncho65]

Just wanted to say you do really impressive work and I'm really looking forward to this one. Do you think it would be possible to swap a second one in place of the serrated blade as well so that two could be carried? My thinking would be to have the removable file and a metal saw on board at all times.

Welcome to

[Poncho65]

Awesome progress on the T shank holder

[Wspeed]

Another excellent looking tool 

[Rapidray]

  

[JC]

If you really wanted to, you might be able do to that, if you also moved around some of the other tools, but you wouldn't be able to have my flat bit holder and the t-shank holder on the same side.

Hmm...and two T-Shank holders on the same side wouldn't work because of the thumb notch. Would you consider offering a version that's a mirror to the final T-Shank holder design?

Welcome to

Thanks! 

[ZapWizard]

Why yes, I can offer a mirrored version. Thanks for the awesome idea.
That also made me realize it can be used in the FREE P2.

The default version could replace the Saw or Scissors on the FREE P4. It can also be installed in place of the Main Blade on a FREE P2.
The alternate mirrored version could replace the Serrated or Main blade on a FREE P4, or the scissors on a FREE P2.
A bit of washer/tool swapping around may be on order for those alternate configs.

[Matpar_McWolfie]

If you really wanted to, you might be able do to that, if you also moved around some of the other tools, but you wouldn't be able to have my flat bit holder and the t-shank holder on the same side.

----------------------------------

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

Ya progress finally!!! 
I have been cracking at this damn T-Shank holder for a while now. With two physical prototypes, and probably a dozen re-designs from scratch. I tried even to do several designs using more traditional fabrication methods.

-------------

(Image removed from quote.)

I am back to a 3D printed, two-half, stainless-steel bronze alloy design. Similar to Rev 1. I decided that set-screws are the way to go. They are reliable and strong. It will also allow for any thickness of blade up to 2mm.
I also figure that most folks, like myself, won't be swapping out the blades very often. I really only want my Diamond file back. I may put some other blades in a tin in the back of the car for just-in-case events.

-------------

(Image removed from quote.)

Even though you could keep an Allen key with your spare blades; It sucks to not have the tool at hand. So I have a small hex opening at the bottom which could hold a cut-down Allen key. (I don't know if this will be viable yet)
As before: One-half has a recess for the T-Shank blade to sit in. The other half is dove-tailed. It mates in such a way that, even under the pressure of the set-screws, the two halves shouldn't easily be able to separate.
Also, that tiny eye-glass screw driver that comes with the Wave/Charge, and Leatherman Flat-bit kit is also 1.5mm Hex, so it could be stored there also.

-------------

(Image removed from quote.)

This design also has more metal down near the magnet, (The flat area to the left of the Allen key) so it should hold better when docked.

This design would require two M3x3mm set-screws, and an Allen key, both are very cheap
I may offer a alternate SKU where for a few bucks extra I will ship out the parts by envelope (US only).

However, it also would not come tapped. That would be something folks would have to do after they get the part. I might be able to offer a completed kit on Esty.

I have to study on this design for a bit before I order a prototype. I may add something to make it easier to separate the two halves.

-------------

In other news: I should have the Leatherman Surge thumb-tab, and T2/T4 Thumb-tab final prototypes arriving in the next 7-10 days.
I also had to update the Surge holster design to be compatible with the Thumb-tabs. It is actually quite a chore each time there is a design change to the holsters, as I have so many unique configurations to update and export.

This is a solid design. Do you know how thick the blade holder will end up being? I noticed a different set of washers between the tool I bought and the one I received after sending it to warranty. It doesn't fit the rendering you posted with dimensions on june 20 too. So I'm trying to see what configuration I could use to keep all the tools I want while adding the blade holder.

The default version could replace the Saw or Scissors on the FREE P4. It can also be installed in place of the Main Blade on a FREE P2.
The alternate mirrored version could replace the Serrated or Main blade on a FREE P4, or the scissors on a FREE P2.
A bit of washer/tool swapping around may be on order for those alternate configs.

I think you swapped tools in your head. Straight and serrated blade are facing each other, meaning they are in different handles of the pliers. Thus, each would be replaced by either your original design or the mirrored one. Same thing for the scissors and the saw.
In other word, your original design would replace the saw or the straight blade, while the mirrored one would replace the scissors or the serrated blade. Am I right?

[ZapWizard]

Do you know how thick the blade holder will end up being? I noticed a different set of washers between the tool I bought and the one I received after sending it to warranty.

I think you swapped tools in your head.

I hope they didn't change any dimensions in production. The T-Shank holder will be 4.5mm thick. (0.177"). And designed to replace the Saw (0.07") + one 0.06" implement, One of the 0.03" washers (but adding built-in 0.02" washer), and all 3x of the 0.01" washers. For a total gap of 0.18".

You are correct about swapping the tools in my head, thanks.

Correction:
The default version can replace the Saw or Main Blade on the FREE P4. It can also be installed in place of the Main Blade on a FREE P2.
The mirrored design can replace the Serrated Blade or Scissors on a FREE P4, or the Scissors on a FREE P2.

[Matpar_McWolfie]

I hope they didn't change any dimensions in production. The T-Shank holder will be 4.5mm thick. (0.177"). And designed to replace the Saw (0.07") + one 0.06" implement, One of the 0.03" washers (but adding built-in 0.02" washer), and all 3x of the 0.01" washers. For a total gap of 0.18".

From what I measured, the tools are the same but I only got two 0,01" washers. The file, the awl, the can opener and the ruler are all in contact with each other and the "stack" is sandwiched between the washers and the springs. In any case, I might be short on space to keep everything I want.while maintaining the blade swap to have a lefty friendly tool (see my previous posts) ... either I get back to a straight blade positionned for the right thumb, or I find a way to put the scissors on the other side of the handle while still having them easily accessible (no thumb tab on the opposite side of the scissors spring). This way, I could have the straight blade on left position and the scissors on the same handle. On the other side, I'd put the saw and the blade holder (dropping the serrated blade I don't use)

Any of you guys think I could epoxy a thumb tab onto the scissors? Would it hold?

[ZapWizard]

Any of you guys think I could epoxy a thumb tab onto the scissors? Would it hold?

You can't glue anything to that little arm, it is the spring for the scissors to return. It also has a slight bend in it for tension. (Visible from the side)
Epoxy would release from the steel. The best option would be to drill one or two small holes into the space between the arm and the scale. They would need to be closer to the scale, as the spring arm actually moves into to this area when deployed.

If you tapped the holes, you could attach a small thumb tab with some set-screws My P4 thumb-tabs are too big for this, but the upcoming T2/T4 Thumb-tabs may work in that space. I can post a image of what I am thinking if you want.

[JC]

Why yes, I can offer a mirrored version. Thanks for the awesome idea.
That also made me realize it can be used in the FREE P2.

You are most welcome.
That render looks sweet! 

I noticed the two other tools on the double T-shank side appear to be file and awl. That means max tool space between two T-Shank holders is .130?

[Dutch_Tooler]

Awesome ideas popping up here 

Looking forward to the test results on the prototype t shank holder 

[ZapWizard]

I noticed the two other tools on the double T-shank side appear to be file and awl. That means max tool space between two T-Shank holders is .130?

Actually 0.12", (I just made that mock-up image quickly). So you would only be able to keep the Awl, and Ruler if you wanted two T-Shanks on the same side.
I actually can't make the T-Shank any thinner, as the material has to be at least 1.2mm at the thinnest areas to be manufactured reliably.
In either case I have ordered my prototype, but it probably won't arrive for a month.

[Matpar_McWolfie]

You can't glue anything to that little arm, it is the spring for the scissors to return. It also has a slight bend in it for tension. (Visible from the side)

I don't want to glue it on the little arm. Since I want to move the scissors to the other of the same handle (see picture), that little arm, which act as a thumb pad for opening, would be facing the "interior" and no longer be accessible. That's why I'd glue a thumb pad on the other side of the tool (see picture).

Epoxy would release from the steel.

That's what I was afraid of. Metal is probably too smooth.

The best option would be to drill one or two small holes into the space between the arm and the scale. They would need to be closer to the scale, as the spring arm actually moves into to this area when deployed.

If you tapped the holes, you could attach a small thumb tab with some set-screws My P4 thumb-tabs are too big for this, but the upcoming T2/T4 Thumb-tabs may work in that space. I can post a image of what I am thinking if you want.

I'd rather not temper with the tool to the point I void the warranty.

[Foozebar]

First of all. I really like your mods and will probably end up buying a lot of them. Especially looking forward to be able to use the diamond coated file with the P4.

When I found this thread I started to dig thru some older Leatherman stuff and found this.
Still works very well.

[Rapidray]

First of all. I really like your mods and will probably end up buying a lot of them. Especially looking forward to be able to use the diamond coated file with the P4.

When I found this thread I started to dig thru some older Leatherman stuff and found this.
Still works very well.

Great post and photos! 

[Dutch_Tooler]

 

Now for being able to finally lay my hands on a Universal Tool Adapter over here. Rarer than hens' teeth...

[Poncho65]

Welcome to fooze

I also have found it difficult to find the Universal Adapter here in the States as well Hopefully we can both find one, DT

[ZapWizard]

Howdy Folks. It is Shapeways delivery day. 

I received the thumb tabs for the FREE T2 & T4, as well as the Surge. Both are products folks have requested here, as well as on YouTube.
I also had to order a new Surge holster as the design needed to be updated to fit the tabs.
All the parts came out great, no changes required.

I recorded a few sets of videos for these, but for some reason they both had no audio.    Which sucked as I super-glued the thumb tabs into place. 
So this forced me to put up to shut up, and actually go though the super-glue removal processes I recommend but haven't tested on these actual parts.

And then.....my video of the glue removal process was "recorded' during a time where I forgot to actually press the record button. 
So tomorrow I will re-record that video tomorrow. The good news is the removal process worked.

[Foozebar]

Hello again.

Not my intent to highjack this thread, but I'm not allowed to send PM's yet.

How about an updated version of the removable bit driver..?

Here's the old one flanked by my trusty old workhorse.
A 1:st gen Surge with tools from a Core.

Such an adapter might fit all the Free models (P, T & K) and not void any warranties. 

[Rapidray]

Howdy Folks. It is Shapeways delivery day. 

I received the thumb tabs for the FREE T2 & T4, as well as the Surge. Both are products folks have requested here, as well as on YouTube.
I also had to order a new Surge holster as the design needed to be updated to fit the tabs.
All the parts came out great, no changes required.

I recorded a few sets of videos for these, but for some reason they both had no audio.    Which sucked as I super-glued the thumb tabs into place. 
So this forced me to put up to shut up, and actually go though the super-glue removal processes I recommend but haven't tested on these actual parts.

And then.....my video of the glue removal process was "recorded' during a time where I forgot to actually press the record button. 
So tomorrow I will re-record that video tomorrow. The good news is the removal process worked.

Nice