By the way, would there be any issue with removing one of those spacers in the middle of the tool to make room for the bit driver?
You can alter the stack-up however you want, but if your referring to the springs, they must be on placed each side of the bit holder, I use the precious extra space they provide. With the springs included, the bit driver takes 0.32" of tool space.See here for the stackup diagram.------------------Small update:I ordered the newest T-Shank design, it should arrive in the next week or so. Sometimes Shapeways is very fast, sometimes they take a few weeks.
Welcome to asorel Zap is good at what he does for sure Hope you end up with a MT you really enjoy Hoping for the best with the newest revision of the T-shank adapter
you mentioned in your OP plans to laser-etch a ruler on the inside of the scales. Obviously, that isn't something you can sell on Shapeways, but how has that project been going?
Somewhat related to my last question--if you all were to remove the plain edge blade from the Free P4, with what would you replace it with? It's .1" thick rather than .07, so you'd have to use a washer of some sort in order to use one of the tools from the other side.
I put in the plans as the~1/8" of flat space on each side of the scales seems to be begging for a ruler. You could fit a 7" ruler there if you ignore the ends of the tool, or 8.8" if I include the length to the ends.So we have a laser-etcher here at work. For it to do metal you have to coat the metal in Cermark, etch that, then wash it. So I would need to take apart the tool, and build a jig to hold the scales in place. My CAD models are accurate enough I can probably 3D print a jig.I haven't done it yet as I just haven't gotten around to it. (Perhaps I should laser-cut one of those.)I am not sure what I would put in its place. I use the straight blade a lotThe good news is that the washers just need a somewhat common 1/8" inside diameter, and you can get precision shims to fill in stuff from McMaster.
Gotcha. The disassembly requirement sounds like I couldn't apply it as easily as simply sending my P4 over to a third party laser etching service.
I don’t really have anything to add to this thread other than saying that it’s indescribably awesome and ZapWizard is a legend.
is it possible to move the four "main" tools around to different mounting points
There are ways to do a DIY acid etch, if you can trust yourself and/or your hands to transfer the measurements/markings over properly...maybe stick with a quarter inch scale, so as to have less markings to transfer?
Do some of the mods such as the bit drivers you have work on the K4?
I'm currently working on a stencil I could make with a vinyl cutting machine so I would have perfect spacing. I'd go the 'electro etch' path instead of acid etch as it is more consistent.
@ZapWizard - Can you please design a cure for the CoronaVirus? I’m sure it would be elegant and efficient!
I have a different idea for the t-shank - why not just make something that will hold the t-shank and has a flat bit-driver interface - so this would slide into your bit-driver mod and would secure the t-shank blade.