So, it' been awhile and no one really cares about juice mods, especially with them being retired, but in case this helps anyone who wants to do similar I figured I'd give an update on the evolution of the tool. Maybe I can finally get some of those nifty hacker badges.Overall, the tool has held up pretty well despite the fact that I'm notorious for abusing them. I did have one of the fancy screws fail (when I was putting it back together after a change) and the plier head pivot which didn't start the tightest has gotten loser, not terribly loose, but a little play.Finishing the tool right before the pandemic hit meant that it got carried on quite a lot of hiking and backpacking trips, where it performed well, but I was trying to make some swedish fire logs and I figured having a saw would be nice. The juice size means that a fixed saw would be under 3 inches, which is fine for a blade but for me of questionable utility with a saw. That meant I needed some form of a blade exchanger. I had some that I had picked up off taobao that I figured I might be able to squeeze in the gap from the thin scalpel blade.(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)While I was able to fit it in with enough trimming, the limitation of the juice body meant that it either needed to stick out way too far when closed or I was trimming enough "meat" off the sides to make it too weak to support actual sawing. I unfortunately don't have any pictures of when it was briefly working, but I do have several of the aftermath. (Image removed from quote.)So I had to scrap that idea. I have seen folks who modify a saw to fit in the bit exchanger, but having to modify the saw blades and the fact that my bit exchanger was already trimmed, a pain to make, and not worth breaking took that off the table. However, I then found Sam Lim's post about using the pliers frame to hold a t shank blade with no modification.(Image removed from quote.)It holds a blade securely and you can saw all day with this mod, however, and I know this is a little vain and stupid, it looks kind of silly. I know that doesn't really matter, but I still wanted to see what I could do about it. I mounted the juice to a piece of wood in the approximate position it will be in when closed. If you're going to try this, remember that the frame is offset by both the backsprings as well as the pliers width. My goal was to take just enough out of the frame to make the handles nearly close when the t shank is in, so that you can still apply pressure by leveraging on the handle without physical resistance aside from the friction on the T shank/ I started with dremel to speed it up but finished the majority with a hand file.(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)Measuring with my calipers, the cut portion to the pivot is still not the thinnest, so it should not have weakened the pliers much, although we'll have to see how it holds up over the next couple of years. It holds the t shank very securely and increases the overall contact, so I'm happy with it. As Sam called out in his original post, this will fit standard T shanks, but not the leatherman ones as those are too thick. However, you're not limited in length of the standard saw blades. The handle is comfortable to grip and getting the blades in and out is not an issue, so I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.Also, this freed up the space that the taobao blade exchanger was taking up. Waste not want not, so I added a wave small bit exchanger into that space. It does not affect the scalpel blade opening and closing, and fits nicely into the small pocket of space..(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)