3D Printer Blog

Chako · **Reply #240 on:** July 16, 2020, 03:15:01 PM

Took another gander at the arrival dates. A few packages have now arrived in my city...possibly get them tomorrow maybe.

Chako · **Reply #241 on:** July 16, 2020, 09:41:48 PM

That was a surprise. I received my Ender 3 Pro just now.

IMG_8689A by Chako, on Flickr

Chako · **Reply #242 on:** July 17, 2020, 03:36:55 PM

I am going to build it once I get the rest of the parts in. If all goes well, the motherboard should arrive today, and the rest on Monday. Fingers crossed.

Chako · **Reply #243 on:** July 17, 2020, 04:59:45 PM

Well...there might be something to building it first to see if it all works, and then upgrade things. I just got everything out of the box.

Laid out, looks exactly like the Ender 3X. There are a few things different, but I do not think the "Pro" designation means this is a professional 3D printer. It still is an entry level printer that gives fantastic results.

IMG_8694A by Chako, on Flickr

The Ender 3X came with a glass plate as standard. I have read a lot about this magnetic build plate that comes with the Ender 3 Pro, and a lot of folks do not like it. I already bought a spare glass plate which I think will ultimately get put on there. I am curious to see how this magnetic plate works. I can tell that removing it is easy, but putting it back on the other glued on magnet is troublesome to alight it correctly. I also read that a lot of people just remove the top magnetic mat and place the glass plate right on the glued magnet. Not sure If I will like that...or if I will attempt to peel that magnet layer off of the aluminium heated bed. I have also read that if you go above 80 degrees, it kills your mats magnetism. This could be an issue for other printed materials. Thus far, I have only gone to 60 degrees with PLA.

IMG_8695A by Chako, on Flickr

Looks like the nozzle part is exactly like my Ender 3X. Not sure if the original Ender 3 has a different end or not.

IMG_8696A by Chako, on Flickr

A lot of review sites seem to put a lot of points on the upgraded Meanwell power-supply of the Pro version. All I know is that the one that came on the Ender 3X is thicker, and I haven't had any issues with it at all. This Meanwell power-supply is thinner for sure. If you look at the second photo here, the old 3X power-supply is as thick as that bottom plastic shroud.

IMG_8697A by Chako, on Flickr

IMG_8698A by Chako, on Flickr

The other big upgrade (or so I am told) is the Y-axis aluminum extruded beam which is now 4040 as opposed to the 3X's 2020 sized beam. The wider 4040 on the Pro should help the stability of the heated bed...although I have never encountered any issues with the 3X's 2020 Y-axis beam. I suppose bigger is better and will be a good upgrade. Also note in the picture the motherboard box has been reversed. This means I will have to put the printer on its side to access the compartment from underneath. This also puts the USB connector and Micro SD card higher off the ground. I didn't mind the lower access as I have the printer in line with the front of the table. At least no plastic bits can fall into the cooling fan in this configuration.

IMG_8700A by Chako, on Flickr

Oh my gosh. The Pro has the same plastic extruder assembly as the CR-100 and Ender 3X. I would have thought this part would be all metal for the Pro model. Guess I will have to order another metal one for 20 bucks.

IMG_8701A by Chako, on Flickr

So there you have it.

Chako · **Reply #244 on:** July 17, 2020, 06:14:38 PM

Good day indeed. Just got in both the motherboard and LCD screen along with the X-axis tensioner.

Chako · **Reply #245 on:** July 17, 2020, 09:08:41 PM

Time to slowly start this. I plan on finishing tomorrow hopefully. First thing...now that I have a few key upgrades at hand before building the printer, I might be able to do them in a logical sequence that might necessitate less work on my part.

First thing is first, to install the new stiffer orange bed leveling springs. It is so much easier to flip the bed over without having to worry about the gantry getting in the way. Still a spaghetti mess of wires on the one corner. You can see the upgraded spring in place...and the original one just south of it. These upgraded springs are stiffer and should hold your leveling better compared to the weaker originals.

IMG_8702A by Chako, on Flickr

Seeing that I now have the printer on its back...time to start changing the motherboards. I will get this cleaned up and will finish the transfer tomorrow. I ran into a small minor issue. There are 3 screws holding the plate on...however, the bottom plate would not come off. I flipped the printer over on the right side and found another screw that I had to remove...on the Ender 3, there was only the 3 screws. Here is the original motherboard all hooked up.

IMG_8703A by Chako, on Flickr

Much like my Ender 3, they hot glued everything in place. Always a bit of a challenge and fun to remove the hot glue. Here I am starting to remove the cabling on the original motherboard. Yes, both the Ender 3X and the Ender 3 Pro feature the same noisy 8 bit motherboard version 1.1.4. Good thing I will be replacing it with a sweet BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V1.2 motherboard.

IMG_8704A by Chako, on Flickr

Time to prep the replacement. I have to place the blue heat-sinks onto the stepper controllers.

IMG_8707A by Chako, on Flickr

That quick and easy job is done.

IMG_8709A by Chako, on Flickr

That is it for tonight.

Chako · **Reply #246 on:** July 18, 2020, 04:12:06 PM

Today was a bit fun, and I am not exactly finished yet. I sill need to update the motherboard firmware, and not all went as planned.

First thing when I woke up was to remove the old board and install the new. Here are both the Creality V1.1.4 board on the left, and the BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V3.0 board on the right.

IMG_8711A by Chako, on Flickr

I forgot an important step and installed the new board into its compartment.

IMG_8712A by Chako, on Flickr

Oops. I forgot to install the power leads first as they are mostly impossible to install when the board is screwed down in place.

IMG_8713A by Chako, on Flickr

Once done, it is a simple manner of screwing down the motherboard and complete the wiring.

IMG_8714A by Chako, on Flickr

Here is the bottom compartment plate. Plenty of ventilation holes compared to the one found on the Ender 3.

IMG_8715A by Chako, on Flickr

Here I am installing the new LCD screen, which I found does not work as advertised. I am uncertain if it is a wiring issue on my part, or the part just shipped damaged. I have 2 white lines running perpendicular, and the whole display is so light I can barely read it. I might have to sent this part back, but I want to play around with it a little more...but not for today. I re-installed the original display and that works great.

IMG_8716A by Chako, on Flickr

After installing the gantry and the extruder, bowden tube, and nozzle assembly, time to install the few key printed upgrades.

IMG_8719A by Chako, on Flickr

Last to be installed is the Z-Axis bracket.

IMG_8720A by Chako, on Flickr

The completed Ender 3 Pro on the left, and the Ender 3X on the right. I still have a few more things I want to upgrade. I did try the printer after leveling the bed and it works good. I installed the glass plate immediately as it ensures a flatter surface for leveling. Those puck lights I Velcroed to the underside of the gantry have caused problems. Gravity likes to make them fall as the glue fails. I will have to look at another solution that won't endanger a print in progress.

IMG_8722A by Chako, on Flickr

Next steps is to update the firmware, and play around with the BigTreeTech TFT35 E3 LCD. If I cannot figure this out, I may have to ask for another and return this one back.

GearedForwards · **Reply #247 on:** July 19, 2020, 09:50:06 AM

Loving following this thread and seeing your progress and prints!

What are is the gantry made of? If you're having issues with the lights sticking then magnets may be better if it's a ferrous metal or zip ties if it isn't.

Chako · **Reply #248 on:** July 19, 2020, 10:32:17 AM

Aluminium. Zip ties might be the way. I have noticed however that these LED puck lights eat through 3 AAA cells like nothing. Because of this, I am thinking of something that uses a plug in. As I am typing this up, I remember that I have 2 lights upstairs when I did my leatherwork that are not in use. I may have the solution already.

Dutch_Tooler · **Reply #249 on:** July 19, 2020, 10:54:42 AM

Without the writeup and skipping a few of the pics the story might have looked as if the one printer printed the other one

Nice work!

GearedForwards · **Reply #250 on:** July 19, 2020, 11:15:09 AM

Quote from: Chako on July 19, 2020, 10:32:17 AM

Aluminium. Zip ties might be the way. I have noticed however that these LED puck lights eat through 3 AAA cells like nothing. Because of this, I am thinking of something that uses a plug in. As I am typing this up, I remember that I have 2 lights upstairs when I did my leatherwork that are not in use. I may have the solution already.

Hopefully that works for you!

If not then I'd suggest a USB powered LED strip zippled along the gantry, should be small enough it fits within the gantry's profile and energy efficient

Chako · **Reply #251 on:** July 19, 2020, 11:32:47 AM

They almost look like twins.

Lots of options. For example, I am thinking of buying an LED work light for the workbenche. I originally had 3 seperate lights Velcroed and of course they eventually fell. Now I have 6 annoying LED lights held by magnets. Replacing those with a single plugged in light might be the way to go.

Chako · **Reply #252 on:** July 19, 2020, 12:24:27 PM

Well I upgraded the firmware...and had to look up on how to do that again as I only did it the once before. I ended up on Creality's Github website and looked for the same exact firmware file as the other...that being the BLTouch firmware, even though I do not have one currently. I am still playing around with the BLTouch on the Ender 3X...and am not sure if I will spend the 100 bucks to get one for the Pro. Either way, I wanted both machines to be the same to eliminate any complications. I found the required file and renamed it "Firmware.bin". After that, it was a simple matter of copying the file to the micro SD card, and rebooting the printer with the card in the printer. 30 seconds later the firmware was successfully updated.

Here is the printer info on the Pro with the original LCD. Note that there is no mention of the screen being in simulation mode...and it is not a touch screen.

IMG_8725A by Chako, on Flickr

Here is the older Ender 3X printer info screen.

IMG_8729A by Chako, on Flickr

Both are now running Marlin 2.0.5.3.

A quick look into the settings on the Pro showed a Z-Axis change of -1.85. This caused me issues with the 3X as it caused my nozzle to move upwards from where I had leveled it manually. This meant the molten plastic was dropping onto the surface and would not stick to the bed. I ended up re-leveling everything and moving that Z-Axis adjustment to 0. Seeing that I have already leveled this one...I will change this back to 0 as well. Anyhow, the BLTouch is not activated in the new Pro just in case I figure out my way around all of this bed leveling and get another for the newer printer.

Just went to the Marlin firmware page and noted they are now at version 2.0.5.4.

https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/

Chako · **Reply #253 on:** July 20, 2020, 05:04:50 AM

Well bad news about the LCD upgrade. I couldn't get it to work properly. The display is so faded that I can hardly see the information on it. Furthermore, there are two bold white thick lines that run parallel across the center of the screen. When I touch the touchscreen, I get a shimmer like you are pressing hard on a regular LCD. Me thinks it is broken. I will mail it back to Amazon tomorrow.

Chako · **Reply #254 on:** July 20, 2020, 03:09:15 PM

Here is the biggest issue with having the motherboard compartment oriented upside down in the Ender 3 Pro compared to the top down compartment of the Ender 3...having to put the printer on its side to do any work inside that compartment. Mind you, how many times will you have to play in there realistically...not much of a complaint in the end.

Here I am getting ready to unhook the serial cable in order to return the BigTreeTech LCD35 E3 V3.0 back to Amazon.

IMG_8730A by Chako, on Flickr

Yesterday, I pondered on a better lighting solution for my worktable. I was kidding myself with these little portable battery operated LED lights. They are strong but you can see the lighting dim as you go. The little puck lights worked great, but they ate 3 AAA batteries a day. I visited the local Tractor Supply Company (TSC) and found the perfect solution, a 36" 33W shop light that pumps out 3300 lumen. Operates via a pull chain. Now I have plenty of lasting light, and the best part, no more annoying Velcro or magnets. This one is held in place via 2 screws.

You can see the 3 puck lights removed from the Ender 3X on the lower left. I had 6 magnetic LED lights I bought at the Dollar Store seen on the right and back. problem is, although they stayed up there due to the magnets, each light had a dimmer switch to vary the amount of lighting. They moved when I twisted the knob...and they once again ate batteries.

IMG_8731A by Chako, on Flickr

IMG_8732A by Chako, on Flickr

Chako · **Reply #255 on:** July 21, 2020, 10:53:28 AM

I am told by Canada Post that my 10 new 608ZZ bearings should be gracing my doors later today. Not sure if that will be the case...but it was time to print another upgrade, and probably one of the better improvements to the Ender 3, the upgraded spool holder for the Ender 3 Pro. This time around, I will be printing 2 sets of bearing holders...one will be 7.8 diameter (original), and a slightly smaller 7 diameter rod. The last time, I had to shrink the rods a bit for them to fit the bearings. I just hope I have enough red PLA left to make this 7 hour print. Time will tell l guess.

IMG_8738A by Chako, on Flickr

IMG_8740A by Chako, on Flickr

Chako · **Reply #256 on:** July 21, 2020, 11:40:58 AM

The new workbench light is strong enough to light the whole room. I am very happy with this 40 dollar purchase...big time.

Chako · **Reply #257 on:** July 21, 2020, 12:08:57 PM

First print with the Ender 3 Pro is happening this morning. I am printing a WW2 Priest 1/100 scale model in black PLA. Nice to have 2 printers chugging away in silence. I still think upgrading the motherboard to this 32 bit silent SKR Mini E3 is the most bang for your buck upgrade. I am still not sure if I will buy another LCD upgrade seeing that the first did not work properly. Cool to see them both running though. Having 2 machines will give me a bit of flexibility.

IMG_8741A by Chako, on Flickr

IMG_8742A by Chako, on Flickr

Chako · **Reply #258 on:** July 21, 2020, 05:11:07 PM

Anyone with more experience know what happened here? I have never encountered this kind of a fail. The only thing I can think of was some sort of slicing error. There bottom layer got laid down and then there was a shift to the right.

This was on the new Pro. This means I will have to try another print to see if the same issue arises.

IMG_8743A by Chako, on Flickr]

The Ender 3X print is going well.

IMG_8744A by Chako, on Flickr

Dutch_Tooler · **Reply #259 on:** July 21, 2020, 06:12:11 PM

Bummer Chako, that Priest was otherwise going to be rather nice...
Slicing error is what comes to mind as a possible cause, or else maybe a reset of the offset value for that axis at some point. Was the print stopped and resumed at any stage?

Chako · **Reply #260 on:** July 21, 2020, 06:45:19 PM

No. No power outage or anything that would cause it to do that.

I am printing a very simple gecko right now to see what is what.

Chako · **Reply #261 on:** July 21, 2020, 07:35:10 PM

The Gecko made it to completion. Nothing like the first print. I take it something went wrong with the slicer and or the model itself had issues before slicing it.

I have noticed something else. The glass plate sticks to the magnetic under-layer something fierce. I wonder how big of a job it is to remove that layer from the aluminium heated plate.

Chako · **Reply #262 on:** July 22, 2020, 08:56:03 PM

I received all the other upgrades in the mail today.

I received a package of 10 608ZZ bearings...so now the upgraded filament spool now has its ball bearings in place.

I received the Y-axis tightener and installed that piece. Once again no included manual...so I had to look at a photo online to figure this out. I like how I can easily make adjustments via a screw knob. Much better than the one included with the PRO...which was nothing actually. Taking off the Pro Y-axis end-cap was a little harder than I anticipated. I found out that the piece is held there via 4 bolts. What I didn't know, was that each bolt was screwed into a hole in the 4040 Aluminium extrusion piece, and not adjustable via those lock nuts that twist in the extrusion channels to lock everything in. So in essence, the Pro did not come with a method to adjust the Y-axis belt. The Ender 3 is adjustable via those channel lock nuts. need to tighten the belt, undo those 4 bolts, pull the whole assembly till the belt is tight, and tighten those same bolts. With that now known, this is a very good upgrade to have. Hard to have any adjustments when no way to do said adjustment is given out of the box. In this way, the Ender 3 is superior because at least you can tighten the belt on the Y-axis if needed.

IMG_8745A by Chako, on Flickr

The all metal extruder kit also came in. Much better than the cheap plastic version these ship with.

Here is the all metal kit ready for assembly and installation.

IMG_8747A by Chako, on Flickr

After removing the plastic version, the metal kit is half installed here.

IMG_8748A by Chako, on Flickr

Here it is fully installed. Not only are the parts beefed up, so is the locking coupling for the Bowden tube, which is much larger than that found on the plastic version.

IMG_8749A by Chako, on Flickr

So that should be it. I am still thinking on if I should buy another LCD upgrade.

Chako · **Reply #263 on:** July 23, 2020, 05:52:19 AM

Just pulled the trigger on that LCD upgrade. Hopefully this one will not arrive broken.

Chako · **Reply #264 on:** July 23, 2020, 12:00:41 PM

This morning, I wanted to test each unit against each other just for kicks. I found a neat easy to print gift card Davinci Catapult here...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4067668

Load it up in Cura and slice and dice the file.

IMG_8750A by Chako, on Flickr

I made sure to glue stick the print beds, and then hit the "preheat PLA" option which gets the heated bed to 45 degrees and the nozzle to 180 degrees. While the printer is doing its thing, I also like to hit "auto home" to speed things up a little. Load the files into each printer after waiting that the bed and nozzle are to starting temperature. Press "print" to start the process. I did this for the exact same time on each printer to race them each out of curiosity. Once the printer registers the file, the printer will then ramp up the bed temperature to 60 degrees, and the nozzle will go up to 200. Once those temperatures are reached, the printer will then go into action.

IMG_8751A by Chako, on Flickr

Screen on the Ender 3X.

IMG_8752A by Chako, on Flickr

Screen on the Ender Pro.

IMG_8753A by Chako, on Flickr

From the get go, the Ender 3X beat out the Pro ever so slightly. I am calling it a tie due to my probably slight delay in inputting the data between machines...it was a very close variance.

IMG_8755A by Chako, on Flickr

Chako · **Reply #265 on:** July 23, 2020, 05:36:48 PM

Yes, both machines with the same motherboard are the same speed.

Ender 3X.

IMG_8761A by Chako, on Flickr

Ender 3 Pro.

IMG_8762A by Chako, on Flickr

I have noticed that the Ender 3 Pro tends to lay a rougher first few layers, and there is a bit of stringing evident. Not sure if it is the PLA filament or something else. Not much difference though.

Chako · **Reply #266 on:** July 23, 2020, 08:56:15 PM

All it now needs is some string of a suitable size.

IMG_8763A by Chako, on Flickr

Don Pablo · **Reply #267 on:** July 23, 2020, 11:10:20 PM

Trebuchet!!!

Chako · **Reply #268 on:** July 24, 2020, 03:25:22 PM

Chako · **Reply #269 on:** July 27, 2020, 08:32:31 PM

Today came another BigTreeTech TFT35 e3 V3.0 LCD screen. It was a quick swap with the original screen, and now it is working. Noticed that the fonts and display was way different to my other machine. I noticed that there was an update for the LCD screen off of BigTreeTech Github website. After reading the instructions carefully, I wiped a micro SD card and downloaded the proper .bin file. Now here is where things got weird. The instructions also stated I should also download the right folder titled "TFT35" which contained two sub folders, one for bmp icons, and another for fonts. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to simply copy and past these folders to my micro SD card though. I finally figured that I had to create the same folders and manually open each and every freaking bmp icons, download them manually, and drag and drop them into the right folder. Had to do the same for the fonts. That was fun...and I have to wonder why I couldn't simply download the whole folder in one big swoop. 20 minutes later, I was ready to re-boot the printer with the .bin file and folder...and it worked. I now have similar LCD menues on both the PRO and the 3X (which needed this firmware upgrade).

After it did the firmware update, it also downloaded all those bmp icons and fonts.

IMG_8785A by Chako, on Flickr

The old interface was blue. The newest update is a lot more colourful.

IMG_8790A by Chako, on Flickr

Now both are updated to the same LCD specs.

IMG_8794A by Chako, on Flickr

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