Favorite Sharpener

[RatBikeRod]

Ok, I am going to show my age. I have used and still use an old school whet stone my father had but I have not used it in years.

So my question is what would you suggest as your favorite sharpener? I want to get something that I can sharpen my pocket knives and the knives on my multi-tools. It would be great if it could also do serrated blades, but that is not most important.

Also, what do you use to clean your blades?

Thanks.

[NutSAK]

I most frequently use a Spyderco Sharpmaker for actual sharpening.  For touch-ups (honing), I use a Lansky Pocket-Size LCKEY crock-stick sharpener.  I must own 8 of these scattered around the house and vehicles.  They are fantastic, especially for the softer metals most often found in SAKs, traditional pocket knives and multi-tools.

For cleaning I just use soapy water, usually dish soap.  For stuck-on goo from packaging tape and such, I use Goo Gone.

[GA1dad]

I use the Lansky 3 stone system. For under $40 they are hard to beat. There are newer sharpening systems that get the nod these days, but the tried and true Lansky system still gets it done. No problems getting a shaving edge. That said, I am keeping my eye out for a deal on a 5 stone set to give my son for Christmas. He recently was looking at one of my pocket knives and asked if I paid someone to sharpen it because it was such a consistent edge.

[SteveC]

Lansky Turnbox for maintenance and whetstones or diamond stones for really dull blades.

[Tasky]

I have a Lansky 5-stone, but it's fiddly and laborious to set up each time and I'm not very good with it. It was the cheaper one off Amazon, so seemingly of far lower build quality. These days I alternate between a Victorinox pocket double-ended sharpener, and a WorkSharp Precision Adjust... still not any good with either, but they're easier to use and even with my cack-handedness I get pretty good results.
If you're buying the WorkSharp, the newer and more comprehensive Elite version is out now, with additional stones, including one for serated blades and a leather strop.

[GA1dad]

Lansky Turnbox for maintenance

Just watched a video on that one,,, gotta say that looks pretty sweet!!

[RatBikeRod]

THanks for the quick input. So between the Lansky Turnbox and the Spiderco, which gets the nod? Will probably be the last sharpener I buy, so want to make it a good one.

[Aloha]

I have Lansky Turnbox, Sharpmaker X2, Lansky 3 X2 stone plus I added ceramic, serrated, strop, and I forget the other stone.   I also have Diamond plates, 400/800/1000/3000/6000 whet stones, I have straight razor stones, Diamond rod, strops with all kinds of compounds and diamond spray.  Hmm, I have Arkansas stones, some oil stones and a few other things. 

If you are removing damage I like diamonds. I also use the Lansky or my whetstones.  Chips and such is what I'm talking. 

If you are just honing a blade then a Lansky Turnbox is fine.  Same goes for Sypderco Sharpmaker.  Lansky is less expensive.  Your budget will dictate which one to go for. 

I think most who will just keep up with an edge can get away with either Lansky or Spyderco plus add a leather strop and you should be good to go.  If you ever have to fix damage or re establish a bevel you'll need your whet stones.

Also depends on your blade steel as to which will work best.

I really enjoy sharpening so all are my favorite tools to work with.  My blades are all hair popping sharp so all I honesty do is strop to keep them that way.  Maybe run them on a ceramic rod and call it good.  I buy a lot of abused knives so I got extra gear to handle that. 

Sorry if I made matters more confusing.     

[RatBikeRod]

I have Lansky Turnbox, Sharpmaker X2, Lansky 3 X2 stone plus I added ceramic, serrated, strop, and I forget the other stone.   I also have Diamond plates, 400/800/1000/3000/6000 whet stones, I have straight razor stones, Diamond rod, strops with all kinds of compounds and diamond spray.  Hmm, I have Arkansas stones, some oil stones and a few other things. 

If you are removing damage I like diamonds. I also use the Lansky or my whetstones.  Chips and such is what I'm talking. 

If you are just honing a blade then a Lansky Turnbox is fine.  Same goes for Sypderco Sharpmaker.  Lansky is less expensive.  Your budget will dictate which one to go for. 

I think most who will just keep up with an edge can get away with either Lansky or Spyderco plus add a leather strop and you should be good to go.  If you ever have to fix damage or re establish a bevel you'll need your whet stones.

Also depends on your blade steel as to which will work best.

I really enjoy sharpening so all are my favorite tools to work with.  My blades are all hair popping sharp so all I honesty do is strop to keep them that way.  Maybe run them on a ceramic rod and call it good.  I buy a lot of abused knives so I got extra gear to handle that. 

Sorry if I made matters more confusing.   

So you kinda hit the nail on the head. I am buying used Leatherman’s and some blades. I am noticing some damage that I will need to whet stone out I think. This on both straight edged and serrated.

So if you were going to go out tomorrow and buy the right things to correct some blade damage and then put a nice edge on them, what would you suggest? My blades I treat pretty well, but I am finding these others I am getting are sometimes somewhat abused.

[GearedForwards]

So you kinda hit the nail on the head. I am buying used Leatherman’s and some blades. I am noticing some damage that I will need to whet stone out I think. This on both straight edged and serrated.

So if you were going to go out tomorrow and buy the right things to correct some blade damage and then put a nice edge on them, what would you suggest? My blades I treat pretty well, but I am finding these others I am getting are sometimes somewhat abused.

Honestly it just comes down to grits and what you feel most confident using. The more work you need to do (i.e. the more metal that needs to be removed) the lower the grit you should start with to make your life easier. Then progressively work your way up the grits to your desired level of polish and strop to finish.

What matters more than the system itself is your ability and confidence in using them, then the geometry you choose to apply to the blade. Turnboxes and Sharpmakers are popular because they make setting a consistent angle easy, that might be appealing to you, on the other hand your experience with freehanding it on whetstones might make that kind of set up more familiar to you.

Personally I have a few random stones, a Wicked Edge Pro system and a Victorinox pen sharpener. I've had the 4 stick turnbox and sharpmaker previously.

[Aloha]

You can use whet stones so stick with those.  I would suggest SiC ( silicon carbide ) in a 1000/3000 combination stone for 420HC steel.  FYI if you see a stone with Corundum its Aluminum Oxide which is ok but a slower cutting stone.  I bought a cheap combination stone from that big online store and it has been great on my carbon steel knives.  It dishes out but that cause its not a real high quality stone.  If you want a high quality stone go with King.  Otherwise buy whats in your budget but just my opinion stick with SiC.   

If you are trying to repair say S30V I personally think Diamond is best and a less irritating experience.  Those doggone carbides in S30V getting bulldozed using Sic vs sheared off using Diamond.  If you want to mess with high carbide steels then 325mesh to 1200mesh will get you sorted.  You can get a 325 and 600 only and be good to go. 

Leatherman uses 420HC and responds well to the SiC ( silicon carbide ) in 1000/3000 combination stones so if thats what you'll mostly be working on then you will be set.  You can always refine the edge using a leather strop with White then Green compound.  I use basic stuff from a box store.  You can also use bare leather or not strop at all to be perfectly honest.  I get a little whacko so I go thru a whole progression for a mirror edge  .  Totally not best call for every edge.   

FYI if you see a stone with Corundum its Aluminum Oxide which is ok but a slower cutting stone.

I hope that answers your question.  1000/3000 combination Silicon carbide.  If you cannot find that Aluminum oxide is fine. 

1000 side can repair most damage on high carbon steel.  3000 side will refine the work done from the 1000 side.  Leather Strop to further refine the edge or leave it as is. 

The Lansky Turnbox is great but wont take out chips or rebevel an edge.  It'll hone the edge ( realign ) wonderfully and to an extent do some decent work.  Not chip removal tho. 


 

[RatBikeRod]

Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was needing. Think I will look for the SiC stones in the combo you noted and get the Turnbox for the finer work.

Much appreciated.

[Aloha]

Happy to help.  Water stones over oil is my preference.  A good soak before use and you'll be set.  Many come with a flattening stone which is nice.  Don't break the budget on them.  If I recall correctly I spent less than $25 for mine.  Of course there are very expensive ones but really not needed.  I'd spend the extra cash on diamond if you get into tougher or powder steels.  DMT is a good brand but again you can get some really nice budget ones.  Thats another convo tho if you decide to go that route.   

[kkokkolis]

I have stones, diamond files, ceramics.
I experiment with everything. I recently bought some dull knives and diamond has proved the fastest and most efficient way.
First the diamond (rods work on serrations too), then the ceramic and finally some stroping on a leather belt or denim cloth to remove steel dust.
Stones are more rewarding, using them feels like participating in an ancient ritual. But it takes more time.

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[Antti Lammi]

I have all sorts of sharpeners, rods, stones, ceramics etc. But i have now long time only wheatstone, vic dual-knife sharpener and Worksharp guided field sharpener. Worksharp and Vic sharpener when blade needs touch up or little dull blade and wheatstone when fully dull blade.



Only Tools Matters

[BadMechanic]

Im not too hard on blades so Lansky turnbox works for me.

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[RatBikeRod]

Happy to help.  Water stones over oil is my preference.  A good soak before use and you'll be set.  Many come with a flattening stone which is nice.  Don't break the budget on them.  If I recall correctly I spent less than $25 for mine.  Of course there are very expensive ones but really not needed.  I'd spend the extra cash on diamond if you get into tougher or powder steels.  DMT is a good brand but again you can get some really nice budget ones.  Thats another convo tho if you decide to go that route.   

Yea, I ended up getting a set of 400/1000/3000/8000 stones on sale along with the Turnbox for like $60. I will start there and see how I do.

[Aloha]

  Yeah that'll do. 

[comis]

Yea, I ended up getting a set of 400/1000/3000/8000 stones on sale along with the Turnbox for like $60. I will start there and see how I do.

That's actually a really good deal, considering with so many option of grit.

I might be late to post, but another vote for crock stick sharpeners, such as Spyderco sharpmaker or Lansky Turnbox.  They requires no setup and yield pretty consistent result with minimum practice.

[Echotech]

I’ve had a lot of success with the DMT diamond sharpener kit

I like this D2 steel Statgear flipper but disappointingly arrived about as sharp as a butter knife, 5 minutes with the DMT and it’s like a razor

[Aloha]

DMT  thats a kit that will handle a lot of steel.  Sweet knife 

[Echotech]

thanks Aloha