How to guide - swapping corkscrew for Phillips

[Max Stone]

Here’s a tutorial on how to change the corkscrew for a Phillips without disassembling the entire SAK.

All you need is 2.2mm brass rod of length about 1.5x the width of the SAK, a few tools and a steady hand.

This same method could potentially be used for careful extraction/replacement of ANY tool, but careful planning would be needed for a tool deeper than the top layer (and I have only used this method for the Corkscrew).

So I started by removing the scales. I have a foolproof method that involves leaving the SAKs in a mug in the sink while flooding this with hot tap water for 5 minutes. Beforehand I remove all the scale accessories and fold open the tin opener so I have something to grab to remove the SAK from the mug.

Once out, I put the SAK on a layer of paper towel and slide a thin long flat driver into the toothpick or tweezers hole and lever it up when it’s deep in the recess to pop off the scale. If the scale’s a little warped after removal, I give if a gently bend and test for flatness on the kitchen granite.

I find using anything hotter than hot tap water makes the scale too soft and it can distort around the bosses and the surface is easily scarred.

Here’s a pic after removing the scales and the driver I use. And a beauty shot of the final SAK to show the result.

[Max Stone]

Next is to grind off the top of the rivet. Pick the side with the smaller head. I used a shaped stone grinder bit in my Dremel. It’s important to remove the entire head, as you need to push the pin though all the layers, so you don’t want to damage the holes (brass is harder than aluminum). But be careful not to damage the top scale. I use a magnifier ring light and you can feel when the grinding is not quite flush.

Once the head is removed, use a suitable drift to tap the rod a small amount. I open my vice about a quarter inch and put a couple layers duct tape on the top surface to form a base that I can tap the rod through.

You only want to tap the rod enough to release the corkscrew!

[Max Stone]

Here you can see the corkscrew removed and how the rod is pushed in just enough to release it.

I did the same process to remove the back Phillips from the small Tinker. Just be careful as the rod is not as tight in less layers, so you could tap it too far.

[Max Stone]

Next is to prep the replacement rod. It needs to be 2.2mm and about 1.5x the width of the SAK in length, so you’ll be left with something to peen.

Create a head on one side of the rod. I sandwich it in hardboard in my vice and use a ball hammer to tap out a head. Test the head in a spare liner to ensure the rod fits and the head is a good size and will be secure.

[Max Stone]

Now for the transplant.

Position the Phillips in the layer, in the correct orientation. As there’s still tension on the backspring, you’ll need to press the Phillips against the backspring to get the new rod to enter the pivot hole.

It may help to clamp the Phillips (correct orientation), to help press it in while you push in the rod. I shaped the rod tip slightly round, and a light tap was all that was needed to drive the rod into the pivot hole.

Once you’ve got the new rod started, you can reposition the SAK above your vice and gently tap down the new rod, pushing the old one down as you go. This keeps all the tools/backsprings in place at all times and is the ‘magic’ of this technique.

Eventually the old rod will drop out (keep it), and you’re new rod is in position.

Cut the rod leaving about 1.5mm and peen a head to lock the layers. And you’re done!

[Max Stone]

Remember I said to keep the old rod you pushed out?

Well, this rod can be trimmed and used as the new rod on the donor SAK if it’s long enough. This saves you some rod and it already has a factory head.

My donor was a 2-layer Small Tinker, and the target was a 6-layer Craftsman (was a Handyman while it had the corkscrew), so the rod was plenty long to trim and reuse.

Small Tinker that donated its Phillips got back the corkscrew and become a Tourist.

Everyone was happy with their new identities! 

I hope that some people will find this technique useful. I may well use it again when I just need to swap around a single tool. Certainly beats disassembling the entire SAK. 

[Max Stone]

Bonus pic...the SAKs with the swapped tools...

[Huntsman]

Beautiful guide Max - Thanks

I added it to the modding guides sticky

You already have your hacker badge - So I can't give you that again!!

[SirVicaLot]

Awesome write-up Max! 

[Max Stone]

Thanks Huntsman for the sticky, and thanks Sir Vic 

[hiraethus]

   Good write up.  The only thing I could add would be to shape the end of the new rod into a longer point.  This will help it to pass through the other tools more easily.

[Max Stone]

True, I was just worried about a tool pushing its way between the gap of the old and new rod as you push them through the layers, as everything is still under tension, so probably best to not do more than a rounded end... 

[jph_777]

Nice tutorial on this swap out, Max.  Thanks for the clear explanation and photos!

[Max Stone]

Thank you     if only all mods were that easy. 

[Jud65]

After taking a chance based on Max’s instructions I used the same approach to replace the main blade on a 5 layer Woodsman.
It took a wee bit of fiddling, but I managed to get the new blade into position (everything closed) and tap a new pin in, pushing the old one out. Good snap on all the tools and my Woodsman is restored to its full glory.
Thanks Max.