Very stiff blades on old Explorer - looking for suggestions

[Max Stone]

Difficult to find individual parts - my came from a Compact that I had stripped for the combo tool.

[Rab21]

Well done on getting it working.

I'd give it a light lube just to finish,  the WD40 will have flushed out the last of the good lubricants and when the WD dries out it might feel a bit stiff again.


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[SteveP]

Well done on getting it working.

I'd give it a light lube just to finish,  the WD40 will have flushed out the last of the good lubricants and when the WD dries out it might feel a bit stiff again.


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Thank you. What do you recommend for a lube? And do you mean soaking it, wiping it down, something else? Sorry, I'm a newb at restoring old SAKs.

I did put some of the official Victorinox oil in each of the openings after I put everything back together. Should I still lube it?

[SteveP]

Difficult to find individual parts - my came from a Compact that I had stripped for the combo tool.

Thanks, that's what I was guessing. So if I did want to try this myself, I'd need a donor SwissChamp and a donor Compact.

Is it realistic to drill out the rivets with a hand drill? I watched some custom build videos on YouTube and it looked like the guys who knew what they were doing were using drill presses. The one guy with a power hand drill, it was wobbling around and the drill bit was bending in a scary way.

I've got plenty of tools, but those are for DIY home repair and improvement, not metal working. But the process looks pretty simple once you get the rivets drilled out. Or am I missing something?

[Max Stone]

I use a Dremel with a 2.5mm and 2.2mm drill bit to release the collars, but it takes a steady hand to save the collars as you need to drill enough of the pin away so that you can tap the pin down (with a fine punch) without drilling the collar. A gentle tap with a sharp punch helps to center the drill bit on the top of the rivet. I have a drill press, but I just find I have more fine control with a hand-held Dremel. The blind pin (without collar) I carefully grind off with a Dremel stone, and then tap gently through.

I'd suggest getting a couple of beat-up Spartans to find what works best for you, before jumping in on dismantling the SwissChamp/Compact. This will also give you a few spare collars, as these are sometimes difficult to save.

I guess you've found the Mod Squad thread, as this has some of the best resources for SAK modding https://forum.multitool.org/index.php/board,16.0.html

[SteveP]

I use a Dremel with a 2.5mm and 2.2mm drill bit to release the collars, but it takes a steady hand to save the collars as you need to drill enough of the pin away so that you can tap the pin down (with a fine punch) without drilling the collar. A gentle tap with a sharp punch helps to center the drill bit on the top of the rivet. I have a drill press, but I just find I have more fine control with a hand-held Dremel. The blind pin (without collar) I carefully grind off with a Dremel stone, and then tap gently through.

I'd suggest getting a couple of beat-up Spartans to find what works best for you, before jumping in on dismantling the SwissChamp/Compact. This will also give you a few spare collars, as these are sometimes difficult to save.

I guess you've found the Mod Squad thread, as this has some of the best resources for SAK modding https://forum.multitool.org/index.php/board,16.0.html

Thank you for the tips, Max. I hadn't found the Mod Squad forum yet, but followed your link. Gareth's how-to guide was very helpful.

Now I just need to find suitable donor SAKs. SwissChamps and Compacts are popular models. Very little on eBay right now. Time to start scouring garage sales and antique stores. (Though part of me really doesn't like the idea of breaking apart a working SAK. Probably why I put the effort into saving the old Explorer.)

[Huntsman]

Great thread everybody      

This is what this forum is all about - Helping each other out and sharing the love and knowedge     

Great to see you getting so involved in the forum Sir SteveP   

[Rab21]

Thank you. What do you recommend for a lube? And do you mean soaking it, wiping it down, something else? Sorry, I'm a newb at restoring old SAKs.

I did put some of the official Victorinox oil in each of the openings after I put everything back together. Should I still lube it?

Oops, missed that bit. No that will be fine.

Yeah just put a few drops of the vic oil in and open and close a few times to work in.

I've seen WD40 used to free stuff off before in my work and then what ever it was seize worse than before because the WD has flushed any lubricant away.

But sounds like you've got it .

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[SteveP]

Oops, missed that bit. No that will be fine.

Yeah just put a few drops of the vic oil in and open and close a few times to work in.

I've seen WD40 used to free stuff off before in my work and then what ever it was seize worse than before because the WD has flushed any lubricant away.

But sounds like you've got it .

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Thanks, Rab21. Interesting info about WD40.

The Explorer is working well at this point. The blades open fine, but don't "snap" closed like a new knife, though I haven't tried the clay that kamakiri suggested earlier in the thread.

I attached a couple of long-overdue photos...

My best guess is that it's from the mid to late '80s, so not bad shape for a 30+ year old SAK?

(I added the suspension clip, lanyard, and mini-screwdriver.)

[SteveP]

Great thread everybody      

This is what this forum is all about - Helping each other out and sharing the love and knowedge     

Great to see you getting so involved in the forum Sir SteveP   

It's a real pleasure being here, Huntsman.

And I really do appreciate the knowledge that everyone has been so willing to share. I hope to be able to contribute as my knowledge builds.

[kamakiri]

Thanks, Rab21. Interesting info about WD40.

The Explorer is working well at this point. The blades open fine, but don't "snap" closed like a new knife, though I haven't tried the clay that kamakiri suggested earlier in the thread.

I attached a couple of long-overdue photos...

My best guess is that it's from the mid to late '80s, so not bad shape for a 30+ year old SAK?

(I added the suspension clip, lanyard, and mini-screwdriver.)

Looks like 1986. I can’t see the bevel on the awl, but looks like it’s on the pivot end and not toward the tip. If it has the small ‘v’ on the tang, it is ‘86. Large ‘V’ and it’s late ‘86. If I’m wrong on the bevel on the awl, and it’s on the tip side of the eye, then it’s ‘87+.

[SteveP]

Looks like 1986. I can’t see the bevel on the awl, but looks like it’s on the pivot end and not toward the tip. If it has the small ‘v’ on the tang, it is ‘86. Large ‘V’ and it’s late ‘86. If I’m wrong on the bevel on the awl, and it’s on the tip side of the eye, then it’s ‘87+.

Small "v", so '86. You're good!

I'm not sure what I'm looking for with the bevel on the awl. Sounds like you've got the date locked down without it, but just for my knowledge?

[SteveP]

I took a look at the liners using the 8x gray-rimmed magnifier on my Champion. Not a pretty site. The aluminum is pitted all over.

You poor knife. What did your previous owner do to you?

[kamakiri]

Small "v", so '86. You're good!

I'm not sure what I'm looking for with the bevel on the awl. Sounds like you've got the date locked down without it, but just for my knowledge?

Thanks! And sorry I missed this post…

The ‘bevel’ is where the machined angles change. Earlier knives had the bevel close to the pivot end. Starting in ‘87, the bevel was moved to the tip side of the awl. So this is one of the easier timeframes to break up production annually.

Hope that explains clearly enough!

[SteveP]

Thanks! And sorry I missed this post…

The ‘bevel’ is where the machined angles change. Earlier knives had the bevel close to the pivot end. Starting in ‘87, the bevel was moved to the tip side of the awl. So this is one of the easier timeframes to break up production annually.

Hope that explains clearly enough!

kamakiri, I finally got it with the bevel.

Between your description, this post with comparison pictures ( https://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,51872.msg1632103.html#msg1632103 ) in the topic "Something to help you date your Vic SAKS based on tool evolution", and comparing with a Deluxe Tinker I have from after 2005, I finally understand.

Mine has no bevel at all so MiniChamp's info dates it to 1985-86, aligning with your date of 1986.

As an additional confirmation, I found into on the different designs of the gray frame around the magnifier (same topic, reply 95 by Frater_Martin). Mine has beveled edges (compared to the right-edges on my 1983 Champion). Beveled edges seem to be from 1986 forward.

So everything points to 1986!

Thank you!

[kamakiri]

You’re welcome!

The magnifier actually changes by ‘84. My first knife has the beveled magnifier and was given to me that summer.

For at least the beginning of ‘85, there was no eye in the awl. And I believe got the 90° stop in the caplifter. I haven’t found any clear evidence of ones like yours in late ‘85, but possible.

[SteveP]

If anyone is still following this saga...

I spent about 30 minutes vigorously bending the blades 90 degrees to the pivots, at multiple points from fully open to almost closed, bending out to the front of the SAK, to stretch the spacing. (Again, many thanks to Max Stone for the suggestion.)

Prior to this I had good "snap" when closing the two knife blades and the mag glass. The other tools needed to be pushed closed. (The reamer and corkscrew snapped closed great from the start.)

After the half hour of vigorous bending, I now have good "snap" when closing the Phillips and scissors as well.

The cap lifter and can opener have some "spring" when closing, I wouldn't call it "snap", but it's an improvement. There must still be some tightness in that layer because if I have open the cap lifter and can opener at the same time, then whichever I close first snaps soundly. I'm guessing the added tension of the open spring is overcoming the remaining tightness? But with just one tool open, back to the weaker "springy" close.

Personally, I still marvel at the change in this SAK from when I got it and needed a pry bar to open most of the blades. Now they all open easily and mostly close as if new. I'm a very happy guy!

And I hope all the tips shared in this topic help someone else down the road.

[Rizio Il Ghiro]

Good work, SteveP, and thanks for sharing your tips of what worked - I’ve been really lucky in that a soaking in warm water, detergent, a drop of WD40 and then a good wipe off with kitchen paper and then S drop of Victorinox oil have worked for me, but I’ve not had quite such a recalcitrant subject in front of me!

[SteveP]

Good work, SteveP, and thanks for sharing your tips of what worked - I’ve been really lucky in that a soaking in warm water, detergent, a drop of WD40 and then a good wipe off with kitchen paper and then S drop of Victorinox oil have worked for me, but I’ve not had quite such a recalcitrant subject in front of me!

Thanks, Rizio. That technique seems to be really useful for cleaning out dirt and grime. Lots of people here and on YouTube recommend it.

I think what's been the pain with this SAK has been the oxidized liners. I was shocked at the pits, small gaps, and roughness in them when I looked at them under a magnifying glass.

[Nix]

Personally, I still marvel at the change in this SAK from when I got it and needed a pry bar to open most of the blades. Now they all open easily and mostly close as if new. I'm a very happy guy!

I'm awl-ways amazed at how an old, neglected SAK can be brought back to life with some TLC and elbow grease.

Never give up on a SAK!   

[SteveP]

I'm awl-ways amazed at how an old, neglected SAK can be brought back to life with some TLC and elbow grease.

Never give up on a SAK!   

Good words, Nix.

I like this Explorer so much that it's become my daily carry at home, along with my Mini Champ. When I'm out, I switch up to my Swiss Champ and Mini Champ. But at home surrounded by a houseful of tools, the Explorer does what I need in a lightweight 91mm SAK.

It's like what they say about food you've grown yourself tasting better. There's just something special about a SAK you've brought back to life.

[Aloha]

I'm awl-ways amazed at how an old, neglected SAK can be brought back to life with some TLC and elbow grease.

Never give up on a SAK!   

 

 

[ThundahBeagle]

If all else fail(WD40, hot water bath with soap, etc), I would suggest to soak the knife into the white vinegar for couple of hours and see whether it will loosen the rust.  I would try moving the joint every hour or so to see whether that would help the loosening.  And toothbrush and flossing sometimes would help remove gunk too.

^^^ This. The vinegar. Remove the scales and place it in a jar of vinegar overnight. Then rinse or blow it out and re- oil. I've removed stubborn rust off of second hand wrenches and sockets and such. In the case of solid tools ( no joints ) I left them in vinegar 2 to 3 days.