I think the issue is due to the thickness of the two layers. If you tried to use the corkscrew on the opener layer it would be quite a bit too thick. I have not done it, but maybe the outer face of the tang of the corkscrew could be filed or milled until the thickness matched the opener layer.
Yes, the blade layer (and thus the corkscrew) is thicker than the opener layer so you will have to file it. I know it's been done here but I can't find an example thread at the moment.
I found some tiny .4mm brass washers with a 2.5mm hole on eBay (couldn’t believe it to be honest that all the dimensions were so perfect) but if you can get those you could just use the blade layer spring and put a spacer on the cap lifter. You could also make a spacer or thin the split ring eye spacer to .4mm as suggested in that other thread. They eye might be a bit thin to be practical then but you could always grind that off if you didn’t like it. :0)
The bottle opener tends to sit high in the closed position when used on a blade backspring. Not impossible but definitely not very elegant.
Good thought. Just eyeballing it, it looks to be the same thickness at the tang, as the awl. I will break out the calipers when I dig into it.
Hey, just happened across this topic. Does your tourist have the old thick or new thin blade?
I have not taken it apart yet. It does not appear to have the spacer built into the outer scale on the big blade side. (If I am understanding your thread in this subject, linked above.) So I am guessing older, thick tang blade?
Yes, I believe so. It's been a few years, so I think that just means you need to find or make 0.4mm brass spacers for the can opener and bottle opener? I made mine with 0.4mm brass sheet.I'm interested as well to hear about your caliper measurements when you disassemble. Are you going to try grinding the spring so you can put the bottle opener where the main blade goes?Now I'm wondering what it looks like ungrinded on a 84mm SAK... Could be slightly different to a 91mm SAK.