New L H & C restoration, reprofile or no?

[Enginears]

I just got a new project piece, and I am planning to restore it. I will fully disassemble as there are some major issues going on.  Would you shape the blade to get a bit more of it’s original character back or roll as is? 

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[SteveC]

Ambitious project, I would see how the disassemble and rebuild goes. It wouldn't hurt to clean it up a bit but I wouldn't go overboard.   

Good luck !

[Alan K.]

I like the blade shape as is. Good luck.

[IMR4198]

  I think I agree with the others.  The blade profile is okay now.  Straightening that liner problem out is going to make a big difference in how that old knife functions and looks.  Make sure you keep some photos coming in as work progresses.  Best wishes.  G
 

[AzteCypher]

I agree as well on the profile.  Clean up the blade a bit but leave some of it's character to show that's it's had a long life.  Just my 2cents.

[Enginears]

Thanks for the input guys, I am happy  to say the teardown went well. I was able to salvage the cracked wood and keep the scale’s original. Steel liners are very bendy, so some whacking and they are back. I decided to give the smallest possible adjustment to get more of a tip on the blade, since that is the part of these knives I like the most, hopefully not too much.  The only thing holding me back now is having the right rod in steel. Tomorrow I can find some.
 

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[Enginears]

So I made some pins and got a rough assembly. The walk and talk is amazing! There are definitely some deep seated issues here because the liner just doesn’t want to sit right on the back end. There are a lot of torsional forces happening and I think it all comes from the spring. I noticed that it is not square or true when I had it apart. If you sat it on the bench it’d be leaning. The wood has taken a slight beating due to these forces, but nothing atrocious. Fingers crossed that nothing blows up in the final assembly. I found that I can use a piece of wood to space the top of the scales and get it to close up on the back/bottom, so I will be peening it with that in there. 

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[IMR4198]

That twist in the spring might be hard to correct.  If you grind it on one side, then you have another problem with a gap.  Might have to just peen it up and see what you get.  Blade looks great.  Best wishes.  G
 

[SteveC]

Wow !  great job so far 

[AzteCypher]

Would heating up the spring a bit and putting it in the vice help or would that just weaken it?  Another question, are you going to do anything about that crack in the scale or is it not in danger of getting any worse.

[Enginears]

That twist in the spring might be hard to correct.  If you grind it on one side, then you have another problem with a gap.  Might have to just peen it up and see what you get.  Blade looks great.  Best wishes.  G
 

Thanks G, I think you are right. It’s going to be an ongoing process as I peen it up and see how it all shakes loose.

Wow !  great job so far 

Thanks Steve! 

Would heating up the spring a bit and putting it in the vice help or would that just weaken it?  Another question, are you going to do anything about that crack in the scale or is it not in danger of getting any worse.

I considered it, but I want to get experience annealing and heat treating before I attempt it on something semi salvageable like this. Eventually I plan to be at the level of shaping new springs and heat treating them.

Seeing as I really want to save the original wood, I will fill the crack with epoxy or super glue to set it. Hopefully thats enough.

I will keep ya’ll posted.

[SteveC]

Superglue and Ebony dust works well for crack repair.

[AzteCypher]

That's a good idea.

I can wait to see the finished product.   

[chip]

It’s looking good, you’re doing a great job

[comis]

As Steve said, ambitious project but this is already looking much better than when you first started.  Hope it works out well in the end!

[Enginears]

I may have a touch more fine sanding to do as I see some superglue residual now that I have it under the lens in the light.

I took your suggestions under advisement and mixed superglue with wood dust to patch up some of the voids, and lock in the cracks. The appearance is quite good aside from needing just a bit more sanding.

I think I fell victim, once again to leaving too much material to peen, but was able to work it into some smooth and solid heads. Not perfect though!

I found after peening, tweaking, using, checking etc. that it was going to be a bit unstable if I did not anchor the top of the liners on the butt end. It would set up nicely and then slowly start collapsing in and creating that void between the liner and spring. My solution is a bit unorthodox but I made a wooden insert that sits on the spring and keeps the liners straight. I would have used steel, but didn’t have any that was thick enough, and did not like how multiple pieces looked in there.

Overall I am pretty happy with this, and it has been completely rescued and is ready to give another lifetime of use.


 

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[Enginears]

 

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I was wondering if anyone knows about the LH & C tang stamps. In my research I found most of this model #2132 had the tang stamp ‘’LH & C USA”. I think they made knives from 1912-1940s. Curious to know if this tang stamp was earlier, later, or concurrent with the USA one.

[IMR4198]

Well you rescued an old clunker and had some fun doing it, I bet.  I was under the impression that the old knife was an L. F. and C. New Britain.  Looks fine whatever it is.   Best wishes.  G
 

[SteveC]

Fantastic job !    well done   

[AzteCypher]

Very nice!  I'd be proud to carry that one around.

[Enginears]

Thank you guys, it was a fun time doing this one and I learned some things. I may have struck a deal with a local collector and shop owner so there will be more restorations coming.

[GA1dad]

Wow! Great Job!