Can Opener as Phillips Driver

[marlowe221]

We all know the can opener can be used as a 2D Phillips driver. And we all know that it’s not exactly perfect for the job - it has its limitations.

Today, I ran into one of those limitations when trying to assemble one of the kids’ Christmas presents. I didn’t realize a #2 Phillips driver would be required so I didn’t grab one before starting on the project. Being too lazy to get up and go fetch an actual Phillips screw driver, I got my Climber out of my pocket and pulled out the can opener.

Everything was just fine… until the screw got tight about 3/4 of the way in. Then I couldn’t keep the can opener in the screw head - it just kept camming out. I tried different angles with the can opener but it was no good. Eventually I had to give up and go get a real Phillips driver from the kitchen drawer.

It wasn’t the screw head, either. The head was well constructed and was not stripping out or anything. The screw (all of them, actually) just got tight enough that all four points of contact were needed to continue to turn the screw.

In the past, I’ve said things about how I thought the in-line driver on the Explorer was redundant since we have the can opener…. Today’s experience made me rethink my previous statements.

(The back Phillips might have worked, I just didn’t happen to have a SAK with a back Phillips on me today).

Anyone else ever run into the limits of using the can opener as a Phillips driver? What were your experiences like?

[Tasky]

Pretty much the only limitation I've found so far has been a slight re-direction of force, resulting in the can opener closing on my fingers.

[Enginears]

I have actually had both of those happen, where it seems to be  so tight that the can opener is popping out of the screw head, then as I struggle to push it, it closes on my finger. It was not nearly as bad as a blade closing but still a curse word or two was uttered

For screws that are too tight or too recessed, the champ is in my drawer. The next step up for harder or repetitive stuff the cordless electric drill is a quick trip to the garage away.

During Christmas I encountered a very small, slightly recessed screw on a battery compartment that the can opener had no chance, and to my surprise the combo tool actually came through and was able to get it done. It made me rethink how I have been a bit dismissive of it for various screws.

[MrToolJunkie]

As mentioned, recessed screws are impossible. That is why I like having a Wera bit holder that works with the cap lifter or any of my other SAKs with inline or back phillips drivers.

On the plus side, you can also use the can opener on some Allen  head screws and Torx 15 and 20.

[marlowe221]

As mentioned, recessed screws are impossible. That is why I like having a Wera bit holder that works with the cap lifter or any of my other SAKs with inline or back phillips drivers.

On the plus side, you can also use the can opener on some Allen  head screws and Torx 15 and 20.

That’s a good tip on the Allen/torx screws and the can opener.

I’m also usually carrying a Rambler for the 58mm combo tool magnetic Phillips. It’s great for the recessed screws I often encounter on small electronic devices and kids toys. It does have an upper limit though, in terms of screw size and the amount of oomph you can use to turn a screw.

[nate j]

As mentioned, recessed screws are impossible.

If they are only slightly recessed, a lot of times the can opener will still work, especially if you angle it a bit.  But I agree that deeply recessed screws are the main Achilles heel of the can opener screwdriver.  Whether you run into enough of those in your day-to-day to justify carrying a model with a dedicated 3D Phillips is of course an individual decision.

Pretty much the only limitation I've found so far has been a slight re-direction of force, resulting in the can opener closing on my fingers.

If I find myself applying more force, I often choke up and grab the tool (rather than the handle) directly with my thumb and forefinger so that it can’t close on my fingers.


If I run across a really stubborn screw, I’ll pull my Alox Bantam out of my wallet, lock its combo tool onto the can opener/screwdriver (or bottle opener/screwdriver) of the 91 mm or 93 mm SAK, and use the Bantam to generate the required torque.  It’s the same idea as if you have a screwdriver that has a square or hex shank, you can put a wrench on it if you need the extra torque.

[MrToolJunkie]

If they are only slightly recessed, a lot of times the can opener will still work, especially if you angle it a bit.  But I agree that deeply recessed screws are the main Achilles heel of the can opener screwdriver.  Whether you run into enough of those in your day-to-day to justify carrying a model with a dedicated 3D Phillips is of course an individual decision.
If I find myself applying more force, I often choke up and grab the tool (rather than the handle) directly with my thumb and forefinger so that it can’t close on my fingers.


If I run across a really stubborn screw, I’ll pull my Alox Bantam out of my wallet, lock its combo tool onto the can opener/screwdriver (or bottle opener/screwdriver) of the 91 mm or 93 mm SAK, and use the Bantam to generate the required torque.  It’s the same idea as if you have a screwdriver that has a square or hex shank, you can put a wrench on it if you need the extra torque.

I am going to have to try this technique. Very interesting and I would never have thought about until now...thanks!

[MacGyver]

Anyone else ever run into the limits of using the can opener as a Phillips driver? What were your experiences like?

Yes..., multiple times. The can opener SD is a great standard sized phillips driver for incidental stuff, on the go (pretty much like most SAK tools), but that's mostly it..., and it's mostly what i would use it for.
I'll always use the actual tools when ever they are available to me, for any job. The can opener works fine a lot of times for light to medium torque, but if the screw is too tight, and it's not an emergency situation, i'll just leave it alone till i can get a real SD to it.
At home i'll always use tools, specifically talking about SD's, i'll use a bit driver with ratchet and good SD bits.

For the "screw driving" situations i'd use a SAK for, i've yet to encounter one i couldn't solve, one way or the other...

Apart from the main SAK (84 or 91mm) i always have the Alox Minichamp on my keys, and my bit adapter and bits i carry on my coin pouch. It pretty much solves that.



BTW, when applying any force, either on the can opener or bottle opener, i never crank (or twist) on the SAK body itself, i always pinch the tool with my fingers as close to the screw as possible and apply force that way

[nate j]

I am going to have to try this technique. Very interesting and I would never have thought about until now...thanks!

[marlowe221]

Yeah, I should have had the proper screw driver to start with but…. Well, laziness is a powerful force!

Incidentally, I did try the back Phillips of my Super Tinker on one of those stubborn screws yesterday. It was able to turn them with no problem. Of course, actually putting the screws in that was for the last 25% would not have been much fun but it did work!

Also, since the joint on the back tools isn’t the strongest, I make it a point to pay attention to the amount it force I’m using on it and I never use two hands like you might on a real t-handle screw driver.

Either way, it’s good to know what your tools can do and equally important to know what they can’t do.

[Steelej1976]

I have had this issue with the can opener, sometimes you just need all 4 points of contact as you indicated.