Are case all fur coat and no knickers?

[chip]

What’s a birdseye pivot?.This is CS which is apparently 1095, I heard this is because they are having supply issues with CV.

[SteveC]

What’s a birdseye pivot?.This is CS which is apparently 1095, I heard this is because they are having supply issues with CV.

This

[LoopCutter]

 

IMG_5576.jpg (Filesize: 96.14 KB)

Birds Eye with CV steel.
Bought this used on a auction side for less than $20

 

IMG_5607.jpg (Filesize: 152.46 KB)

  what condition it was when I received🙄

[chip]

That looks good, You did a great job cleaning that up.

[LoopCutter]

Thank you 

The CV and CS  steels are desirable for two reasons.
1.  The steel can take a very fine edge.

2.  The steel holds an edge very well, taking just a little effort to maintain via simple stropping.

Your grey will be a good one! 

[chip]

I had to re profile the edge. It had the normal toothy (putting it kindly) edge I have grown to expect.. but what I was not expecting was the edge to be wavy.
I have had new leatherman with a wavy grind, but that was always the top of the grind with the actual edge remaining straight and true.

When I ran my finger gently along the edge of this knife you literally felt it going up and down. And it took some sharpening to sort it out.

I do prefer the carbon steel as I am not really a fan of mirror finish blades and much prefer a coating or satin finish at the very least. And due to my apple addiction this blade has already darkened down.

[LoopCutter]

Just for you Chip…

A CS blade (Workman Red) and a CV blade (Grey Bone Crandall Jig)

The Red is developing a slight patina near the edge zone and to my surprise I found my grey was put away with tape residue near the end of the blade. 🤪

 

IMG_5712.jpg (Filesize: 160.81 KB)

As you described the wavey edge, that is not an issue I have experienced.  Usually, uneven bevels in on side, most likely both, or a rolled edged in which stropping quickly resolves.

A Wavey would seem to suggest sharpening against a ceramic rod or a pull through sharpener with uneven pressure as the the blade is in contact.

Worst case would be at the factory, an abrasive belt that was worn and the seam is exposed.

That is why I have come to respect my flat stones, even though I am yet learning.

Hang in there, enjoy those you find and rescue, you are a hero toward these wayward CASE knives 👍😎

[chip]

The sodbuster jr is a great knife for uk legal carry and may buy more in the future .
The knife was brand new from a retailer so can only assume this was done at the factory.

[chip]

Against my better judgement I ordered another case knife from knivesandtoolsuk. A mini trapper in s35vn.
On initial inspection I could not only visibly see the pivot pin but it was slightly raised to the touch.

The only time I have seen this is on knives before was after someone had attempted to fix a wobbly blade.
And sure enough the clip point blade had a lot of play

So I contacted them and said I was not happy that they had not only sent me a defective knife but to my limited knowledge it looks like someone has had a go at fixing it before I even received it..

They have no more in stock and offered me a 40% partial refund.
Now I would not be happy with a 90% refund if there was no prospect of me being able to fix the blade play.
And even if I did manage to remove the  play by tapping with a ball hammer it would not be pretty as if I were to try and buff out the protruding pin and any damage I did tapping it after it would be at the expense of the three lines engraved in the bolster, one of which runs across the pin.
So I have declined there offer by email and won’t hear back from them till tomorrow.

I am really disappointed as I really want this knife and it is taking all my strength to resist my natural urge to fix things and giving it a belt with a hammer

[Enginears]

Chip I am sorry to hear that. I recently took a hammer to an old Uncle Henry Schrade that had all kinds of blade wobble and was amazed at how much pounding it really took. It was enough that if it were a SAK it would have been seized into a brick. All that to say the sanding/buffing to make the bolsters nice again was substantial, I would absolutely hate and resent having to do that to a new knife.

40% partial refund 

[stuntzombie]

Chip I am sorry to hear that. I recently took a hammer to an old Uncle Henry Schrade that had all kinds of blade wobble and was amazed at how much pounding it really took. It was enough that if it were a SAK it would have been seized into a brick. All that to say the sanding/buffing to make the bolsters nice again was substantial, I would absolutely hate and resent having to do that to a new knife.

40% partial refund 

Unless you can see the pivot pin on that Uncle Henry it's likely Swinden Key construction, and any pounding that fixes blade play is likely to be temporary.

[chip]

They have now said send it back for a full refund and I have emailed them back saying I would like to try and fix it if they would be so kind to increase their offer of 40%, the wobble is a lot worse than  any on the limited videos I have found on how to fix blade wobble.
But I am sure  it can be fixed, but there is a real chance I could bugger it up even more.

To be fair they have given excellent customer service so far, so I will wait for their reply.

Fingers crossed they make me an irresistible offer and I do a good job on fixing it if they do.

[Enginears]

Unless you can see the pivot pin on that Uncle Henry it's likely Swinden Key construction, and any pounding that fixes blade play is likely to be temporary.

Thanks for this bit of information, I knew it was different since the pin never showed itself. I watched some videos on the Swinden Key system and really do not like it. I am not sure if this knife is worth the trouble of actually fixing with a through pin. I may put it through a week of hard use and see if it starts to fall apart again.  Heres a video if anyone is interested. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X44CxU2wtOk