Fixed my Electrician problems

[Jazz]

Got rid of the useless (to me) curve in the blade, sharpened on both sides to a nice 15° each. Reshaped the driver to fit Philips and flat.

I tried to make it a can opener too, but failed, hence the arc in the claw. I don’t need a bottle opener, but use a can opener now and then, so that’s all it’s lacking.

[zrxoa1]

Got rid of the useless (to me) curve in the blade, sharpened on both sides to a nice 15° each. Reshaped the driver to fit Philips and flat.

I tried to make it a can opener too, but failed, hence the arc in the claw. I don’t need a bottle opener, but use a can opener now and then, so that’s all it’s lacking.

(Image removed from quote.)

Nice job!


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[Enginears]

  I also find the curve in the blade useless, I may try my hand at this reprofile.

[LoopCutter]

   I used the electricians blade frequently to remove  casing covers from multi connector signal cables I installed between control equipment.   Whether it be 18-6, 18-12 or 18-24, the blade scored the casing snd allowed me to remove the sheathing with damage to the inner wires.

The electrician was one SAK that I saw its purpose meet its potential😉

[Grand_Banana]

Like LC, I tend to get some cable use out of the wire scraper.  I find it really useful even if I don’t use it as much as him.

I do like the idea of an Alox with the wharncliffe profile. Something like the gardening one.

[Jazz]

I’m sure the arc is very useful for its intended purpose. I don’t play with wires, and it can impede the function of the cut, if used as a normal blade. It had to go. Now, it’s a great little open anything blade, and a fine whittler.

I do wish this model had a key ring… I think. It does feel better in use without. Key rings feel awful on the alox models, but I really like a small bit of paracord on my Swiss Army knives.

[Huntsman]

Interesting post   

I have used the dimple in the blade for wire cutting - But it is a bit awkward and can be dangerous!!
I think the way it is meant to be used - Is to close the blade dimple over the wire, against the frame, and then rotate the wire to cut through the sheath.

[zoidberg]

I think the way it is meant to be used - Is to close the blade dimple over the wire, against the frame, and then rotate the wire to cut through the sheath.

Sorry but I disagree.
Cable wont fit and while you might get an individual wire in there the angle and spring tension will make it messy.

Are there no Victorinox instructions?

[LoopCutter]

My method  to cut the wire casing on the multi conductor cables  was to lay the knife blade onto the cable and score around applying pressure, two turns usually was enough and then remove the knife and pull the casing and strip the shielding.  Most times  4 inches to 12 inch’s was adequate to provide ample length of conductors for installation.

A straight blade knife used in same method worked but usually  spiraled and did end the cut at the same starting point.

[Huntsman]

@Zoidy
I was basing that on what SAKWiki says -
https://sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Cap+Lifter#Using_the_Wire_Stripper
Although this describes the process for a regular blade - and the technique is somewhat different *

Also on my own experience of using the e-blade fully open - and rotating the wire in the dimple - which does not work too well - and is pretty dangerous.

* Just checked this out very briefly - You are right Zoidy - It does not work very well for the e-blade with a regular thickness wire - See image
And thicker wire would be worse  ....... Really not sure how this is meant to work!!

Not seen any Vic instructions - I think we need some!!

[zoidberg]

Not seen any Vic instructions - I think we need some!!

https://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-browse_image.php?imageId=2146



Edit to replace pic and link with our own.

[Huntsman]

Not seen any Vic instructions - I think we need some!!

Thanks Zoidy for digging these out - Brilliant - So the dimple is for the outer sheath and the flat bade for the inner coating
But I am losing it!!

We already have this image in the Wiki gallery and linked to the tools blade page - I thought I checked earlier today - But must have missed it.
https://sakwiki.com/tiki-browse_image.php?galleryId=211&sort_mode=name_asc&imageId=2146&scalesize=o
I also must have forgotten about it - after the recent blade page refresh, when I  edited a link to that image 
Anyway I update the Electrician's page with a link to the guide and added a new image - So another small improvement to the Wiki     

[zoidberg]

Anyway I update the Electrician's page with a link to the guide and a new image - So another small improvement to the Wiki     

   

[LoopCutter]

Yep, that is how I used my Electrician with multi conductor cables.   It felt natural.

I then used a wire stripper for the conductors only removing the length needed to make connection. As these wires were normally stranded wire that was best.

If using solid wire the flat of the blade would work as described.  Usually no12 wire. For 120/240 lines.

[Luke Walker]

(...)

I tried to make it a can opener too, but failed, hence the arc in the claw. I don’t need a bottle opener, but use a can opener now and then, so that’s all it’s lacking.

Did you bend the claw a little bit or make the tip of right side a little thinner? If you look closely at the Combo tool there's a  little angle that makes it possible to grip the outside rim of the can, so that it can hook onto it.

That method might work as well for your modified bottle opener.
 

IMG_0729.jpg (Filesize: 244.82 KB)

[Huntsman]

Edit to replace pic and link with our own.