What do you look for when buying a used car?

[Benner]

Yes, yet another thread from me about cars.  

I'm just curious, when looking for a new used motor, what is important to you?  Happy to have a car with high mileage but good service history and in good nick?  Happy to just go with a newer car with no service history?  Happy with any car as long as it has low mileage?  Number of keepers matter to you? Want low and new everything?

I'm curious to read your feedback.

[Mr. Whippy]

There's a lot to know.

If someone is not mechanically inclined, I tell them to:

1.  Smell the car.  Interior and trunk (boot). If it smells moldy at all (or like spoiled milk) just walk away.  Once a car has leaked enough to get moldy, it's hard to get rid of it AND there's a good chance it's got corrosion under the rugs.

2.  When you drive the car, drive it with no noise (radio, yappy people etc).  If you hear something untoward, be wary and ask about it.

3. Test all the systems (air conditioning, fan, blinkers, lights, wipers, washer, heater, radio, electric windows and locks)

3.  Take it to a mechanic before buying.  They can scan the computer, check the brakes, coolant system, state of the transmission, exhaust and look for obvious engine problems (oil leaks etc) pretty efficiently.

hth

[Pacu]

Carfox...i mean carfax

[thebullfrog]

Whippy summed it up pretty well.

As for me I don't mind mileage so long as I ca tell it was kept up well. Maintenance > mileage IMHO. I actually like to look for a few small problems, things that aren't really all that big a deal, and easy for me to fix myself, as it gives me a lot of negotiating leverage. I've used repairs that cost me maybe a couple hundred bucks at the most to make it easy to talk the price down a couple grand. I find that most car salesmen I encounter tend not to know much about actual cars, so it's easy for me to tear them apart at the negotiating table.

[yud]

Carfox...i mean carfax

+1

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

When buying used bikes, I'd test all the electrics.
I'd tell the seller to leave the engine alone, and I'd want to start it from cold. then listen for odd noises.
Check for corrosion on the fork's, and that the fork seals are ok, and that the rear suspension is still firm
Tyres
Go for a test ride and make sure the engine and cycle parts work ok.

[Magic Bus]

I check that all the wheels are there 

[Screwtape]

Don't be fooled by a good valet,  I used to do them and know what they can hide 

Drive the car, if it goes well it's a good start

Don't be afraid of a higher milage car if it has a good service record

Walk away from anything with visible rust.

Wear Sunscreen 

[Benner]

I'm happy with checking car function, I'm more curious about the other kinda questions at the beginning of this thread.  When searching for example do you set yourselves a mileage and age limit?  Does service history matter a lot to you, or are you just happy with a good condition car?  Does the number of keepers bother you?  Would you happily buy a car with very high mileage that had been very well serviced?

[Screwtape]

I think the high millage and good service is acceptable as long as you stick to manufactures that turn out reliable cars.

I had a Mazda MX5 once and it was the most trouble free car I ever owned,  currently I drive a Ford Focus nearing it 100,000 miles, it's a good car but over the same milage as the mazda its needed more work done to it. 

Cover your back with a good service record my focus will need its cam belt changed in about 3000 miles, an older car would have had it done twice by now.  Missing those larger service's is worse than missing an interim service.


I persopnally prefer a car thats been driven well for a few years than one thats been sat around slowly becomming sticky with a lot of short stop start trips on the clock those are when the most wear and tear happens, not the 20 mile communt on the motoraway each day when you harldy touch the brakes, clutch etc.

Hope that helps

[Neil]

Is it really cheap?  If yes then that is good as an expensive car I can not afford however much better it may be. If its really really cheap that's even better as I can afford to put petrol in it.

Its important to walk around it and kick at least two tyres so that the dealer knows you know about cars

At some point whilst looking at the car make a sssucking noise as if you've found something suspect.  This will give you much leverage at the negotiating table

I hope my extensive auto knowledge is of help to you

[thebullfrog]

It really depends on the type of car I'm looking at. If I'm looking at just a good reliable daily driver, then high mileage with good service is fine for something like a '95 Toyota let's say. However, if I'm shopping for a Camaro for example, I'd prefer lower mileage since there's a better chance it got the crap beat out of it a lot. If it's a relatively low mileage example with 1 or 2 owners it was probably cared for better, if it's higher mileage then chances are by now it was bought on the cheap by someone who just wanted a toy to beat on. The same goes for trucks. If you are looking for some sort of "fake truck" SUV like a Honda CRV or something (God help your soul) then chances are better it was maintained over the years, whereas a Wrangler has a better chance of having been off-roaded etc. so I'd want something lower mileage.

Also it depends on my plans for it. If it's going to be something I want to last, newer is better. If I'm just looking for a toy (which tends to be the case) I don't mind higher mileage, especially since chances are I plan on modifying it and will be replacing a lot of stuff regardless. Not to mention in this case I'll likely wind up breaking it a lot either way, so I may as well be breaking the old 160,000 mile parts than the shiny 60,000 mile ones lol.

[Gareth]

Is it really cheap?  If yes then that is good as an expensive car I can not afford however much better it may be. If its really really cheap that's even better as I can afford to put petrol in it.

Its important to walk around it and kick at least two tyres so that the dealer knows you know about cars

At some point whilst looking at the car make a sssucking noise as if you've found something suspect.  This will give you much leverage at the negotiating table

I hope my extensive auto knowledge is of help to you

Taking a torch out and looking in the wheel arch and under the car (while making sssucking noises) really makes it look like you know what you are doing.

Full service history really is a must if you are spending more that a couple of thousand and planning on keeping it for more than a year or so.   While I like low mileage it's again depends on how how long you plan to have it and how much driving you are planning to do.  So if you do 15,000 miles a year and plan on having it for 4 years or more (i.e. 60,000+ miles) I'd not be buying a car that already has 85,000 on the clock.  But if you only do 6,000 miles per annum then the same car might be OK.

[Grant Lamontagne]

With cars it's not as much of a big deal, but always keep an eye out for a towing package.  If the vehicle has a well worn hitch assembly on it, walk away, even if it has very low mileage, as that mileage has probably been done under some serious stresses.  My father in law recently bought a used GMC Jimmy with very low mileage, but I've surmised from the scratches, dents and wear on the Hidden Hitch that the previous owner must have used the truck to haul a boat or other toys to and from the cottage.  Use of that kind can really wear out things like suspension parts.  Ideally, on a truck or van, you want something that was set up at the factory for towing, but was never used.

If there's a trailer hitch on a car, or evidence that there ever was one, leave it be, or demand a substantial decrease in cost.  Cars are not made for towing, although many people try.  You'd be amazed at what kind of damage can occur on a small car that was used for even the smallest 1,000 pound utility trailer.  I would also look for other mods/upgrades like altered ride height (lifted or lowered), fancy tires/rims or other aftermarket addons.  You don't want a car that has been owned by some kid for street racing either.

Make sure the hood, doors and trunk lid all open and close smoothly as well, and there's no rot or corrosion on the hinges or in the doorwells.  Make sure all the weather stripping is firmly in place, and there are no small scratches that might indicate that it was loose at some point.

And, I'd be sure to really gun the engine a few times in a test drive- hit the gas and see how well it responds, and slow down by gearing down and using the engine compression to slow the car.  Again, if it's sluggish or hesitant or rough, smile and give the keys back to the salesman!  Engine compression is arguably the most important thing in a used car, as its the easiest indicator of whether or not the engine has been abused.

And, don't be afraid to ask questions, and when you show up at the dealer's place, make sure you have a current copy of the local car buy & sell type paper with you.  Here in Canada it's called the Auto Trader, and I'm sure there's an equivalent in almost every country that has cars.  Have a pen stuck in between some of the pages, dog ear other pages, and make it look very well worn before you set out in the morning.  This will subtly let the salesman know that you are looking around, you have options, and that you are serious about buying, and they will approach you differently than if you just come in out of the blue.

Def

[82brutus]

Hey,

I've been hanging out reading the Swiss Tools forum and the Leatherman forum, this is one of my rare visits to the Break Room and I've been enjoying reading all the discussions. 

Most of what I look at or think about has already been talked about.  Additionally, I look over online reviews (I don't take them all exactly at their word) but I look for trends, common problems, complaints, etc.  I check for manufacturer recalls as well.  Lastly, I look at the cost of replacement parts of all the common items, especially when buying a used vehicle.  Transmissions, alternators, water pumps, etc.  It just gives me an idea what kind of maintenance costs I might be in for down the road.

Thanks,
Martin

[Benner]

Thanks for the thoughts guys.  I appreciate the feedback.

Neils was particularly useful...

[DaveK]

A warranty, under-written by a recognisable bank or insurance company, which you should read well!

Tbh, if that's in place, just pick one you like and can afford

[ryan1835]

id check there s not a body in the boot 

[AHB]

I'm with Neil.. 

[Chako]

Here is something you have to watch out for...at least in my area...

I usually take a flashlight, and an inspection mirror.

I use the flashlight to run light along body panels to see if any body work was done. Likewise, the mirror is used to see under the vehicle. It is very hard to hide body work and a new paint job if you know where and how to look. I do this because you have to be weary of the shmucks that buy accidental cars and fix them up for profit.