Leatherman Knife Edge Preferences

[turnsouth]

As they come from the factory, Leatherman blade edges are anything but smooth. In fact, when looked at closely, they are ground in such a way as to leave "micro serrations" along the entire length of the blade. This works great for utility use, meaning they will cut through most anything with ease. Be it rope, cardboard, plastic packaging, or any other number of materials (not to mention that they are excellent at quickly slicing through all the layers of skin on your fingertips  )

But as anyone who has tried can attest to, if you do a "paper edge cut test", you can most of the time get better results just tearing the paper.

So my question is: When you sharpen your Leatherman's, do you either:

• Sharpen the blade until the micro serrations are gone, leaving a nice smooth edge?
• Or, sharpen the blade just enough to bring back the cutting edge, without completely removing the micro serrations?

For me I really like the micro serrations, I like that the blade can hack through most anything, even if it isn't going to be the cleanest cut. So I try to only sharpen them to the point of bringing back the edge. I know that after a number of times sharpening, the serrations will eventually be gone, but I like to take advantage of them while they're there.

Here's a couple of pics of ST300 plain edged blades:

Factory edge:


Same style blade after several sharpenings:


The second photo is the ST300 that I have been using, and I've sharpened it enough times to where the serrations are almost gone. But there are still some there, and as you can see, the very edge isn't perfectly smooth yet.

So what do you all do?

[genevabuck]

I've never had a problem with the blades.  Actually, I am more than impressed with Leatherman's sharpness.  I normally wait until they are dull.

[enki_ck]

I hardly ever use the blades on my leathermans. I like to keep them sharp just in case. I always have some other kind of knife or SAK for cutting tasks. If I use them I strop when I get home, and hardly ever sharpen them, and if, then just a few passes over a ceramic rod. Just as you say, to bring the sharpness back. The sharpness of LM blades was always great, and the micro serrations never bothered me, I liked them. The fact that I don't like about LM blades is that often times they have uneven bevels, different angles.

[jzmtl]

It's going to be gone after a few sharpenings anyway, so I don't worry about it and treat it same as all my other knives, ~1200 grit then green compound strop.

Most factory edges are like too, from sharpening with medium grit belt then power strop to remove burr.

[Outback in Idaho]

Could those serrations actually be the grain of the steel?

Myself, never have paid attention to the grain as have been using the Sypderco Tri-Angle Sharkmaker for several years now.
Grabbed my 10x jeweler's loupe and inspected the blade edges. All the blades still show the grain.

Looked at the Charge TTi, Skeletool CX, Juice KF4, and the 0893 PST and all have that same grain like your first photo shows. Even the serrated blades on the Juice KF4 and Charge TTi show the grain; although the KF4 shows some saw-tooth-like area towards the end of the blade.

[AimlessWanderer]

I seldom use multitool blades, favouring dedicated knives instead. However, I tend to have most knives set with a micro tooth for more versatile cutting as mentioned above - but that's simply from sharpening with coarser stones (like you might use for reprofiling an edge), and not following up with a finer grit.

From my perspective a coarser stone sharpens quicker and cuts quicker - I don't tend to need cleanliness in my cutting, just efficiency. OK it removes more metal, but then I steel the edge between sharpening anyway so I don't have to sharpen too often.

[turnsouth]

Could those serrations actually be the grain of the steel?

I had considered that, but I was dissuaded for a few reasons:

• The point that you had mentioned, that on the CX models with their 154CM steel, the edge grinds look pretty much identical to the the edges on the tools with the 420HC. It seems reasonable that different steels should have different grains.
• The durability of the serrations. I'm thinking that if it was just a result of the grain, then with use the actual "roughness" should wear to the point of where the grain was still visible, but have very little or no texture.
• The way the serrations grind away with sharpening. In the photo above of the ST300 that I have been sharpening, I have been using a 600 mesh, 25 micron flat diamond stone, and as you can see the serrations are almost gone, being replaced by the scratches from the diamond powder.

You see what I'm saying?

[turnsouth]

I seldom use multitool blades, favouring dedicated knives instead.

I use the heck out of my MT blades. I love them, they just seem so "manly"

However, I tend to have most knives set with a micro tooth for more versatile cutting as mentioned above - but that's simply from sharpening with coarser stones (like you might use for reprofiling an edge), and not following up with a finer grit.

Very true Al
As well, with a jig and the right stone on a grinder, the edge can be easily duplicated.

From my perspective a coarser stone sharpens quicker and cuts quicker - I don't tend to need cleanliness in my cutting, just efficiency. OK it removes more metal, but then I steel the edge between sharpening anyway so I don't have to sharpen too often.

Like I said I try to leave some utility "roughness" to my MT knife edges. The only exception being is if I'm using one at my desk to open envelopes and what have you. I just hate not getting a nice clean cut there. Must be my OCD acting up...

[turnsouth]

I hardly ever use the blades on my leathermans. I like to keep them sharp just in case. I always have some other kind of knife or SAK for cutting tasks. If I use them I strop when I get home, and hardly ever sharpen them, and if, then just a few passes over a ceramic rod. Just as you say, to bring the sharpness back. The sharpness of LM blades was always great, and the micro serrations never bothered me, I liked them.

Never been much of a stroper myself. I know that it can bring out a perfect edge, I've seen guys make edge that could split hairs just using a belt and a little rubbing compound.

Up until recently I've favored the ceramic rod style, in the "V" configuration for pocket carry. I like being able to sharpen "on the go" That is until I got my first flat diamond stone...

I had always thought they were a little gimmicky, and more of a gadget that anything else. But I picked up a folding pocket one, just to have something flat to keep in a Maxpedition organizer. Now, after using one, I am converted. They are amazing, I don't think I'll ever be able to give them up.

The fact that I don't like about LM blades is that often times they have uneven bevels, different angles.

Agreed 100%  One would think that after nearly three decades of making knife blades, someone would say: "Can't we set the machines to make the bevels even?" 

[Threeme2189]

I don't have a preference.
As long as it cuts I'm a happy camper

[tattoosteve99]

I usually wait until the factory edge no longer cuts. Then I pull out the water stones. 600 then 1000 grit. After that it's the leather strop and polish. Super fine mirror edge.

[jzmtl]

Could those serrations actually be the grain of the steel?

No it's what happens when it's sharpened with a belt sander. They don't take it to high grit at factory, looks like it was sharpened with 150 grit belt, then polished.

[Mercury]

I don't know that it's a belt per se, I wouldn't have confidence in that if I were the Manufacturer.  A stone grinder would be a bit more consistent.  I could be wrong, I have never been in the factory. 

I don't like the serrations.  I usually prefer a smooth cut no matter what I'm doing.  I take all my blades and run them down a Spyderco Sharpmaker every chance I get until those serrations are gone.  It's tedious because maintaining the profile is paramount, but I do it while on a very long phone call or something. 

As for the different bevels, that is almost a new LM trademark.  I have bought probably 10 tools with that problem, some so bad that at certain spots one side isn't even ground.  I hate it, and it will certainly make me either sell the tool or turn it in to their warranty dept to regrind it.  I hate reprofiling a brand new blade.  The blast that is currently on my belt as well as it's BO backup both have perfect grinds. 

[Outback in Idaho]

I don't know that it's a belt per se, I wouldn't have confidence in that if I were the Manufacturer.  A stone grinder would be a bit more consistent.  I could be wrong, I have never been in the factory. 

Look at 1:20 area on the video. This is a more recent updated version from LeathermanMedia.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/user/LeathermanMedia#p/u/11/U6EmXJR_5_A[/video]
Leatherman Factory Tour

[Zed]

my old wave had a good edge on it from new and as i didnt use the blade thatmuch i never really sharpended it much, but i could never get a good edge on it  although iam pretty rubbish at sharpening knives, my new wave came pretty sharp so not touched it as of yet but i have improved on sharpeniong these days so time will tell, but i have found them pretty sharp out of the box ,

[Gareth]

While I do like a touch of 'bite' to my knife edges, the factory finish is still to coarse for me.  So it's on to the bench stones for a bit of work.

[Zed]

While I do like a touch of 'bite' to my knife edges, the factory finish is still to coarse for me.  So it's on to the bench stones for a bit of work.

I know what you mean gareth, i usualy judge a blade but how rough it feels to how sharp it is but i recently got a 110 back from buck and i thought it was blunt as didny feel rough, well how wrong i was its razor sharp  i could never get a edge like that 

[Accujohn]

If you touch up your blade with a few strokes on ceramic rods regularily, your knife will always be hair popping. The best way to sharpen a dull knife is to never let it get dull

[New_World]

when I get a new LM tool, I will sharpen it right when I get it.
the factory edge isn't sharp enough for my liking.

[Outback in Idaho]

when I get a new LM tool, I will sharpen it right when I get it.
the factory edge isn't sharp enough for my liking.

Me and my concur with this as well.

[MeadMaker]

The micro serrations actually help the knife cut more quickly in most situations because most people use a sawing motion as apposed to pushing the blade straight through the material they are cutting.

Having said that, I have highly polished bevels on my CS4 blade because I like the way it looks next to the satin body of the blade.

The polishing is achieved by using chromium oxide stropping compound on a leather belt in my bench top belt sander.

[New_World]

The micro serrations actually help the knife cut more quickly in most situations because most people use a sawing motion as apposed to pushing the blade straight through the material they are cutting.

Having said that, I have highly polished bevels on my CS4 blade because I like the way it looks next to the satin body of the blade.

The polishing is achieved by using chromium oxide stropping compound on a leather belt in my bench top belt sander.

you MUST post pics!
do it now