And so it begins.... (My adventures into Alox!)

[Lypse]

Hey Syph007

In a few days I will have a cadet and a electrican tool, and I was wondering if you have tried to fit a sheepfoot blade into a 84mm tool? It doesnt matter if the scraper part was lost in the modification..

Oh and is there a thread somewhere that lists the sizes/names on the screws ect. needed to assemble the tool after the pivots have been removed? I live in Denmark so its proberly metric if I can find them.

Thanks for any answers and all the nice pictures

/Alex

[Syph007]

Hey, the electrician blade could be made to fit I'm sure one way or another.  Maybe in the opener layer, but I have a feeling that blade is thicker than the openers, so it might have to go in a new layer.

I use standard 1/8 inch pivots and 2-56 threaded screws that I get from knifekits.com 

[Syph007]

Admit it, you got tired of sanding down your thick springs.

Ha, you dont know how true THAT is.  I actually had a buddy at a machine shop surface most of my springs to scissors thickness as the by hand method was crazy.

I finally got my springs back from precision surface grinding.  Money well spent to do this, because OMG the manual way I was doing was a very dreaded task.

[Syph007]

Here is a different mod than normal.  I had a request for a bladeless SAK.





Do to the pliers being adjacent to the cap lifter, the notch was inaccessible.  I added a small cutout to the pliers body and it allowed perfect access.

[MadPlumbarian]

Looking good Syph007!! Really good! JR

[papercut]

That is a smart looking knife!  Very efficient too if one has a dedicated blade edc.

Nice on the springs as well. Are the the pin holes prefabbed to your standard or are they still metric spec (requiring more conversion work).

Cheers!

[Syph007]

The springs I made up with with a 2.5 mm hole, but these were laser cut so its not really suitable to use as is (very rough finish).  For me it's must a guide position to drill my larger hole.

Ya this was the first bladeless SAK ive had requested but I can see one being useful on a few occasions. 

[MultiMat]

A NTSA friendly 007 model 

[WiSAKfan]

Here is a different mod than normal.  I had a request for a bladeless SAK.

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

Do to the pliers being adjacent to the cap lifter, the notch was inaccessible.  I added a small cutout to the pliers body and it allowed perfect access.

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

amazing and in red too for xmas.  is that for my stocking? 

i've said it before but so clever on both the can opener and bottle opener opposite of the phillips!!!

[Syph007]

Ya I really like the openers across from the phillips.  Kind of like adding the explorer layer minus mag glass which most people never want anyhow since its plastic.  The nice part for this mod doing it this way is there was room in that layer to add the keyring nub beside the phillips driver. Normally it goes as part of the blade layer, and the customer wanted to have it still.  So it worked out nice. 

[Marius]

Here is a different mod than normal.  I had a request for a bladeless SAK.

Looks delicious as always but I see not one but two blades left there

[Marius]

I finally got my springs back from precision surface grinding.  Money well spent to do this, because OMG the manual way I was doing was a very dreaded task.

Nice. So you only need now to polish these? What's your current polishing method for these, if you can share?

 

[Syph007]

I finally got my springs back from precision surface grinding.  Money well spent to do this, because OMG the manual way I was doing was a very dreaded task.

Nice. So you only need now to polish these? What's your current polishing method for these, if you can share?

 

Yep I just need to edge finish and use now which is so much nicer.  I actually hand sand the backs to finish with 3 grits, 220,400,800 but I use 1/2 sanding mandrels for most of the inside, and then a smaller 3mm mandrel to get the rest of the hard to reach parts.  Then I buff with a cotton wool dremel buff and green rouge. 

[Marius]

Yep I just need to edge finish and use now which is so much nicer.  I actually hand sand the backs to finish with 3 grits, 220,400,800 but I use 1/2 sanding mandrels for most of the inside, and then a smaller 3mm mandrel to get the rest of the hard to reach parts.  Then I buff with a cotton wool dremel buff and green rouge.

Cool. Does it look good if after the 800 they are left as-is on the outside (without buffing), for some "matte"/unpolished look, older 93 mm opener tools style (or the backspring sides)? I think that some models could look good in the unpolished look, for example with brass liners and old style tools. Or is that the finish does not end up uniform?

Cheers!

[WiSAKfan]

Ya I really like the openers across from the phillips.  Kind of like adding the explorer layer minus mag glass which most people never want anyhow since its plastic.  The nice part for this mod doing it this way is there was room in that layer to add the keyring nub beside the phillips driver. Normally it goes as part of the blade layer, and the customer wanted to have it still.  So it worked out nice. 

how thick is it?  got any comparison shots?

[Syph007]

Yep I just need to edge finish and use now which is so much nicer.  I actually hand sand the backs to finish with 3 grits, 220,400,800 but I use 1/2 sanding mandrels for most of the inside, and then a smaller 3mm mandrel to get the rest of the hard to reach parts.  Then I buff with a cotton wool dremel buff and green rouge.

Cool. Does it look good if after the 800 they are left as-is on the outside (without buffing), for some "matte"/unpolished look, older 93 mm opener tools style (or the backspring sides)? I think that some models could look good in the unpolished look, for example with brass liners and old style tools. Or is that the finish does not end up uniform?

Cheers!

The problem is that standard Vic parts arent just a matte finish, they are tumbled. Id have to tumble my springs in ceramic media to get that same effect and I dont have a tumbler, so at this point its easier for me to just finish them all the same way.  For a matte look though Id stop at 400 grit and that would look pretty close, but if I didnt sand all the spring my custom ones would not blend in.

[Syph007]

Ya I really like the openers across from the phillips.  Kind of like adding the explorer layer minus mag glass which most people never want anyhow since its plastic.  The nice part for this mod doing it this way is there was room in that layer to add the keyring nub beside the phillips driver. Normally it goes as part of the blade layer, and the customer wanted to have it still.  So it worked out nice. 

how thick is it?  got any comparison shots?

Well doing the mod this way Im using 2 opener layer springs, but those are narrower than a blade layer spring and I'm not another liner.  Its kind of 3 tools in about 1.5 layers worth of SAK.  But much thinner than if I was to add a whole separate layer for the phillips since it needs a wide spring like the blade spring is.  So it would be a much wider SAK to add a phillips that way, if that makes sense.

Oh and the other nice part, purely from a parts perspective is that blade springs are much more valuable to me as a part than an opener layer spring since I have way more opener layer springs than blade springs.  So, I get to use them up this way but putting 2 on one SAK.

[WiSAKfan]

it makes sense 

i was also wondering how thick overall the knife is compared to other knives

[nj2656]

Robert, would the standard can opener work with a small blade in a single layer? Say with the pruner. Thinking that my Firesteel I had you remove the opener layer from feels too thin. Thought having a can opener and a pruner blade in it would be useful in the kind of "survival" knife it is.

[Syph007]

Robert, would the standard can opener work with a small blade in a single layer? Say with the pruner. Thinking that my Firesteel I had you remove the opener layer from feels too thin. Thought having a can opener and a pruner blade in it would be useful in the kind of "survival" knife it is.

Yep that could be made to fit.  The only problem is that one of the nail nicks will be on the inside since both the can opener and small blades have nail nicks on the same side of the tool, so put in a single layer, the nicks will then be on opposite sides. That may or may not be an issue.

[nj2656]

Thanks. Hopefully when the holidays are over I can get a few sent to you.

[Syph007]

The whole family is sick, so I've had very little time to mod.  I did manage to get another slightly different configuration done though. 

The nice part of putting the electrician blade and caplifter opposite the phillips is that that extra shim can go in between the tools to keep them separated.   This layout for the pliers and scissors with the dual opener opposite phillips will be the standard way to doing it now.  None of the nail nicks are blocked at all, even the cap lifter one is easily accessible.  Moving the pliers or scissors any other way blocks something.

Cheers

[nuphoria]

Gorgeous

[kkokkolis]

A great mod that gives me ideas...

[enki_ck]

That green is just

[nj2656]

Another great looking knife.

[Syph007]

I finally felt well enough today to get back in the shop and modding again. Had the flu for a good solid 2 weeks there and that was no fun.

The stock silver scales still have some fans left.  It's been quite a while since Ive had a request to build one though.  Standard urban pioneer, but with electricians blade in place of awl.

[papercut]

Very nice!

[WiSAKfan]

The whole family is sick, so I've had very little time to mod.  I did manage to get another slightly different configuration done though. 

The nice part of putting the electrician blade and caplifter opposite the phillips is that that extra shim can go in between the tools to keep them separated.   This layout for the pliers and scissors with the dual opener opposite phillips will be the standard way to doing it now.  None of the nail nicks are blocked at all, even the cap lifter one is easily accessible.  Moving the pliers or scissors any other way blocks something.

Cheers

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

awesome!!!

[MadPlumbarian]

I finally felt well enough today to get back in the shop and modding again. Had the flu for a good solid 2 weeks there and that was no fun.

The stock silver scales still have some fans left.  It's been quite a while since Ive had a request to build one though.  Standard urban pioneer, but with electricians blade in place of awl.

Glad to hear your feeling better, and like always another good mod, keep it up! JR