Torx driver?

[Cloud Cleaver]

I've been hunting for a slim, quality Torx driver for my keychain. Specifically I need T6, T7, T9 and T10 to maintain my Zero Tolerance knives when I'm away from home. I figured there'd be a lot of options, but I've only managed to find two. One is from Kershaw and the other is from CRKT; neither have all the bits I need and both seem a little poor in quality. Do you know of another way to get the bits I need into a minimalist keychain setup?

[Sazabi]

This might be a stupid question, but take one of these, which is much cheaper at Home Depot, at $6, and maybe find something that could turn the bits?  Unless it has to stay on your keychain, you could slip it into a bag, no worries.

[enki_ck]

I think anything you might find would be to big for a keychain or if keychain sized, not enough torque. The only keychain tool that would be ok is that Screwpop tool, but you than have to carry your bits separatly.


I for one would choose one that comes in a charter members care package, a bit holder and screwdriver in one. I know benchmade makes something like it called the blue box but ours is better.

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,33543.msg568536.html#msg568536

[nuphoria]

Keychain might be hard to find, but carrying a SAK Cybertool would be useful

[Sazabi]

Keychain might be hard to find, but carrying a SAK Cybertool would be useful

Except for the bits needed include some of the harder-to-find ones that Neil and maybe one or two other people can get.  Also, needing T6 through T10, I don't think a T7 was made for the bit driver, was it?  It's not listed on SAKwiki.

[Cloud Cleaver]

I hadn't thought of a SAK. Further research has turned up three options, though. First is the handmade (and difficult to find) Jordan Metal Micro Bit Twist. Next is the Topeak Toolbar, which takes 1/4 hex bits but I'd have to file them to fit. Last is the EDC key. Very affordable way to pack a single bit, but it seems a little long. Thoughts on these options?

http://jordanmetalart.blogspot.com/2011/07/micro-bit-twists.html?m=1
http://www.topeak.com/products/Tools/ToolBar
http://countycomm.com/edckey.html

[Farmman]

If you don't mind carrying the hex bits seperate look at the tt pocket tools in the thread below. The wife has the skull one which I think would do you nicely.

[enki_ck]

Last is the EDC key. Very affordable way to pack a single bit, but it seems a little long. Thoughts on these options?

http://countycomm.com/edckey.html

[frugalscotty]

I'll second Sazabi's suggestion of the Husky 8-in-1 set. I picked up one of these for six bucks at HD and I think it is well worth it.

Also you said you only needed T6 7 9 10. The set I have has T4 and T15 on opposite ends of the same bit. You could leave that bit at home and just carry the other three bits inside the handle for safe keeping and this would also shorten the package by .75 inch. That would give you T5 6 7 8 9 10 in a 4.75 inch package.

Easily replaceable if lost too.

[allyourblood]

Sorry for bumping a slightly old thread, but I didn't see it until today. Considering the size of some of these suggestions, you almost might just got with a folding torx solution like the following:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-mni-star-tamper-proof-key-set-97469.html

It's also a tamper-proof set so you're good to go if you run into that type of screw sometime down the road.

For ultimate portability, you can even unscrew the thing entirely and just put the drivers you need on your keyring, directly. The loop at the end will likely provide enough torque for adjusting knives, anyway.

[hugh_h]

A couple points:

-I design electronics packaging. If there's something that screws together, I almost always use Torx. We used to use hex screws, but an internal drive is easier to automatically feed. On top of that, a Torx drive is superior to, say, a Phillips head because the angles on the Phillips tend to "cam out" the driver. That is, the harder you turn the screwdriver, the more force to push the driver out of the drive form. Torx tools last longer--not a big deal if you tighten/loosen 30 things per year, but rather inportant if you do 30 per minute on an assembly line.

-That Harbor Freight tool is interesting, especially because it's for "Tamper-Proof" screws. Obviously, they're not Tamper-PROOF, because someone's tampering with them. We call that tamper-resistant. That's because an ingenious person can tamper with anything, and all we can do is "resist." For Tamper-PROOF design, I looked at dispensing an acrylic into the screw's counterbore after assembly, and covering the screw head with special tape that's got sctrong glue and weak paper, so it tears when you try to remove it to get at the screw head. When I asked the other engineers to see if they could defeat these measures, one guy chipped out the acrylic, then replaced it be melting with a soldering gun. So, it was not only far from Tamper-PROOF, it wasn't even tamper-evident. A sharp razor blade and lots of patience can remove one of those special anti-tamper labels too. (Now, with plastic hosuings, I use Ultrasonic or LASER welding to seal up the case.)

-As much as I've used my two-dozen knives/multi-tools/keychain tools, for a real job I get a real tool. Anything can unscrew a computer case screw or something like that, but stuff that's out doors or on a car needs a good tool. I've seen SAKs ruined because of applying torque to the assembly of blades/springs/tools, etc., when a dedicated driver would have been the better choice. One isn't always available, though.

[Gryffin]

I use that Husky 8-in-1 driver (as well as one in flat/phillips) and it's GRATE for working on knives, lights, and electronics. 

[Metropolicity]

KEYCHAIN!

I just ran into this last night:

http://www.crkt.com/Get-a-Way-Driver-Torx-Set