Is it just me who has a mind that comes up with crazy smurf like this?

[PTRSAK]

I have a "spare" pair of 93mm alox scales and out of boredom i was comparing the hole spacing with 91mm liners, turns out the Alox knives have 76.125mm between centers of the pivot holes and the cellidor knives are 75mm. So, (ignoring the middle pin for a moment) if you could plug the holes in the alox scales they could fairly easily be shifted "sideways" making the between pivots length compatible with 91mm springs. The 3rd and 4th holes are the problem, but not an insurmountable one.
While sitting and running these ideas through my head I happened to pick up a 84mm liner that was sitting on my bench and tried that for size against the 93mm scale...
Hmmmmm....   very interesting.

top:  93mm scale with 84mm liner traced onto it. Notice the full length "just" fits inside the pivot hole on the other end.
mid:  93mm scale for comparison to show where the new hole would fit. Misses the shield nicely.
bot:  84mm Recruit



with a little bit of hole filling and drilling it would be entirely possible to build a "Super-Cadet" on shortened 93mm scales. 

okay.. time for my medication.

[captain spaulding]

I think it's a excellent idea!   

[Outback in Idaho]

Hmm... Wenger alox scales on a Climber... STOP THAT!   

[PTRSAK]

Or, complete Wenger internals between Vic Alox scales. 

[crackout]

Mhm, I like the stock 84mm alox scales much more. They're so much thinner and thus have this flat-look (less rounded edges).

Also, what do you do with the additional hole? Do the backtools fit in there? That would be too sweet.

[PTRSAK]

I'm going to try a couple of different methods of filling the holes.  Riveting them in with some 3mm Aluminium rod and also filling with Lumiweld.  but I will practice that on some scrap barstock before taking the gas-torch to the alox.

[Outback in Idaho]

I'm going to try a couple of different methods of filling the holes.  Riveting them in with some 3mm Aluminium rod and also filling with Lumiweld.  but I will practice that on some scrap barstock before taking the gas-torch to the alox.

  Carefully taper both sides of the hole with a larger bit drill. Insert a rod of desired width and color, use an appropriate sized punch to flatten the end over on each side. I prefer punches over peening, safer results.   

[PTRSAK]

Welded up holes...




a little ugly, but now I can drill a set of holes to suit 91mm springs.

This will never be a pretty knife, but could turn out to be a fun user/abuser

[Syph007]

Hey I like that you try new things, so keep up the good work!  Someday I'll make up some alox scales for every bloody size of SAK that exists.

I was just hand cutting some Ti scales for 84s tonight and went through about a blade an inch, when I finally clued in and put some heavy lubricant along the scribe line... then I was only breaking a blade ever 3 inches.   So about 5 blades per scale!  

Oh and assuming you filled the holes with Al, they could be pretty if they were stripped and re-anodized.

[Outback in Idaho]

Hey I like that you try new things, so keep up the good work!  Someday I'll make up some alox scales for every bloody size of SAK that exists.

I was just hand cutting some Ti scales for 84s tonight and went through about a blade an inch, when I finally clued in and put some heavy lubricant along the scribe line... then I was only breaking a blade ever 3 inches.   So about 5 blades per scale!  

Oh and assuming you filled the holes with Al, they could be pretty if they were stripped and re-anodized.

  He'd probably make a + shaped alox scale and put implements on all 8 sides and something that slides out the ends - or a make it into a quad-pod to hold a camera or a place to set his coffee. 

[PTRSAK]

Hey I like that you try new things, so keep up the good work!  Someday I'll make up some alox scales for every bloody size of SAK that exists.

I was just hand cutting some Ti scales for 84s tonight and went through about a blade an inch, when I finally clued in and put some heavy lubricant along the scribe line... then I was only breaking a blade ever 3 inches.   So about 5 blades per scale!  

Oh and assuming you filled the holes with Al, they could be pretty if they were stripped and re-anodized.

The holes are filled with "Lumiweld" which is more like a solder than actual welding filler rod. It is some "secret" alloy that melts at a slightly lower temperature than aluminium but it does "wet" the surface like solder or brazing rod does. I have used it on the past to repair model airplane glowplug engine crankcases and stripped threads in motorbike engines.

I have no idea how it would react to anodizing. at the least I would guess it would come out a different colour, at worst it could dissolve out.


As far as cutting Ti sheet goes, I feel your pain.  Last ones I did I used a hacksaw with "all-hard" blades and went through three of them to cut out the scales for the Ti Recruit. Previously I had tried a Tungsten-Carbide toothed blade in my jigsaw but had to go so slow and gentle or it would chatter and break teeth off... and that REALLY hurt, those blades are $18 each.

I have a piece of 0.052" Ti sheet that is just over 17"x14". The alloy is 6AL-6V-2Sn so it has 2% more Vanadium and 2% Tin over the 6Al-4V sheet I have used up to now.

I must make some inquiries about laser cutting as there would be quite a few pairs of scales there. Could make up some nice little knives by slotting Recruit innards between some colour anodized Ti scales.

[Syph007]

The 6-6-2 is a harder alloy too I believe?  If not it was one of the other Ti alloys I was looking at and thinking I'd give it a try for some Ti slipjoint backsprings.  Ti is naturally springy, so I think it should work, but I havent been crazy enough to try handcutting one yet.  I would carbidize the ends so they dont gall.

The jewlers blades i was breaking on the Ti, are cheap at least.  I get a gross (144) for $30.  When cutting aluminum liners I can get probably 20-30 with one blade, but Ti... its just vicious on the teeth.