Massive Titan Bushcrafter

[Sneider]

Hi guys

This 93mm model I have recently completed.
The scales I have made of 3,2mm pure titanium.
Was a hard piece of work! In comparison aluminum is soft as butter.

First I made a brushed finish.
Now it is polished. Maybe I will do later a hammered finish.

I like it. My new companion for little trips in the nature.








Cheers!

Peter

[ducttapetech]

Very nice!

that's us mobile

[nj2656]

Very nice knife.

[captain spaulding]

Really like this one as well. Your just coming up with great knives. 

[Aloha]

Beautiful piece of functional art. 

[Sparky415]

Beautiful piece of functional art.

+1  Oh yes 

[RT1969]

Wow, this is really nice! 

Could you tell us how peening the hollow rivet was compared to the massive ones? And did you sand the rivets flush at the end?

[Cogito]

Very nice   If you can work with titanium why not make an Atwood type tool for us

[microbe]

  worthy!

[enki_ck]

Very nicely done.

[Reinier]

That looks amazing. I like that hollow rivet. Great job!

[Syph007]

Hi guys

This 93mm model I have recently completed.
The scales I have made of 3,2mm pure titanium.
Was a hard piece of work! In comparison aluminum is soft as butter.

Nice work!

Yes brass cuts like butter.  But CP Ti (grade 2) cuts like butter compared to the alloyed stuff (grade 5).  Cutting that stuff by hand can drive you mad.  Using a jewlers saw I think I was cutting about 1 cm per blade. 

Since you're doing rivets I found something handy last time I tried.  Put a very thin piece of shim material in the SAK, that way you can really hammer the rivet heads hard so they fill up the holes, BUT, it wont make the SAK too tight to use since you pull out the shim after finished.   

[Chaka]

Very nice...

On the shims topic, I have used double edge razor blades in half with a U shaped cut where the pin goes.

That's a trick for making traditional slipjoint knives.

Sent from my GT-S5830i using Tapatalk 2

[Syph007]

Very nice...

On the shims topic, I have used double edge razor blades in half with a U shaped cut where the pin goes.

That's a trick for making traditional slipjoint knives.

Sent from my GT-S5830i using Tapatalk 2

Ah good tip.  I used 0.003" steel shim stock the first time and it tore! So I had to take the knife apart to retrieve.  Razor blade is much stronger.

[Sneider]

@ all:Thanks! I'm glad if you like it!


@ RT1969: Uhh... my english ... I try it:
All holes are conical. In the hollow rivets, I have introduced a conical pin. Then so hammered on this pin, that the ends off the brass tube expands. For the finish:  sandpaper over all. Start with grain 60 then step by step finer to 400.


@Cogito: No, that would be too easy and runs below 10000 pcs not bring enough profit to me. 
No seriously, I think Peter Atwood can do better 


@ Syph007: yeah, before I hammer the rivets, I put a razor blade under each scale. After I take this out again. The tools still do not move perfectly. Is probably because the original shells have integrate distance plates. Here I have potential to improve myself.

Of course I could install thin shim plates.
But then it is thicker there than by the spring.

[HankSolon]

If tools don't mover proberly it may also be a result of tapping to much.

Normally if you create a mushroom head on the pins, you tap lightly on the outer sides of the brass rod. That way the force of the tap doesn't went to straight down the pin (the result of this would be the brass rod is getting a little fatter and therefor a worser movement of the tools -> even the half a razor blade as a spacer when tapping won't help you here). It's all about practice.

If the tool movement is because of the tools scratch too much at the scales, a permanent spacer would helf you here too. You have access to razor blades? Are they rust resistant? -> make some spacers out of them, getting them between tool and scale.

However:
Your knife is really great! Nice piece of work.

[RT1969]

@ RT1969: Uhh... my english ... I try it:
All holes are conical. In the hollow rivets, I have introduced a conical pin. Then so hammered on this pin, that the ends off the brass tube expands. For the finish:  sandpaper over all. Start with grain 60 then step by step finer to 400.

Thank you for the answer! I know, I am still struggeling with english, too. Do not ask me about other languages  But that is what http://www.leo.org is for. Remember, practice makes perfect!  Hang in there!

Danke für die Antwort, ich verstehe was Du meinst. Mit Übung kommt der Punkt, wo man das meiste in einer Sprache umschreiben kann und nur noch die Fachvokabeln sucht. Da hat mich die Schule nicht bis hin gebracht. Erst Bücher und DVDs in Englisch haben mir da geholfen.
Wenn Du hier Probleme bekommst, kannst Du mir gerne eine pm schreiben und ich helfe beim Übersetzen (So gut ich kann). Aber ich denke, Du schlägst Dich schon gut!
(My apologies, if you are from the french, italian or rätheromanisch part of Helvetia)

[enki_ck]

Ja, nach einiger Zeit hier kann man da die Englischen Fachvokabeln zum Thema besser als die in der eigenen Sprache.

Ich kann auch mit dem Übersetzen mithelfen wenn es nötig ist, hab' ich schon für mehrere deutschsprachige Mitglieder gemacht.

[Sneider]

@ HankSolon: Thanks for the good tips! The tool movement in the open position is good. But when I close this scratches on the scales. So I will try it with spacers.

@ RT1969: Genau. Üben und es immer wieder versuchen kann nicht schaden.
Vielen Dank für das Angebot!
(l'exercizi è in bun magister. Quai è uschia al tut lingua  )

@enki_ck: Danke auch Dir für das Angebot. (schon im Begrüssungsthread) Gut zu wissen, falls mal was wirklich wichtiges ist.

Sorry, but you have to endure my lousy english. 
I'm trying it simple. Can only get better.   

[enki_ck]

I think we need a Stammtisch thread.

[enki_ck]

I think we need a Stammtisch thread.

Done.

Der MTO Stammtisch

[Sneider]

So, problem solved! Now the tool movement is perfect.
The "sideliner" (with spacer funktion) are 0.25 mm thick.
The liner I have now used 1mm brass sheet.