Gerber LMF II broken :(

[enki_ck]

I was under the impression that Taiwan quality is just as bad as China's. Either way I wouldn't buy a knife (or anything as a matter of fact) advertising Taiwan, just seems cheap and nasty to me...

Plenty of good knives by reputable manufacturers are made in Taiwan, the problem is that a lot of them get copied/knocked off and then the original blades form Taiwan get a bad name cause of blades Made in TaLwan. Böker gets hit pretty hard cause of it.

[ducttapetech]

CRKT's are knife made there. And all of the ones I have used are great blades.

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[DazMechanical]

Well there you have it folks - don't buy made in Taiwan.

 

[jerseydevil]

Well there you have it folks - don't buy made in Taiwan.

 

No Taiwan? I can help you all get rid of them.  Send me all those Sage 1's, 2's and 3's, along with any Calys and Gayle Bradleys. I'd be happy to take those Taiwan-made POC's off your hands.....

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[ducttapetech]

Well there you have it folks - don't buy made in Taiwan.

 

No Taiwan? I can help you all get rid of them.  Send me all those Sage 1's, 2's and 3's, along with any Calys and Gayle Bradleys. I'd be happy to take those Taiwan-made POC's off your hands.....

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Ill take all the CRKT M-16 if you don't mind Tom.

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[jerseydevil]

All yours Nate.  We'll just split everything evenly.

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[sawman]

Well there you have it folks - don't buy made in Taiwan.

 

I'll stick with my Benchmade 

[ducttapetech]

Cool! Sounds good to me Tom!

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[Gareth]

The lesson with that Ka-Bar is don't batton logs with full flat ground knives.  If you want a knife to batton with make sure you pick something with plenty of 'meat' behind the edge.

Personally I'm not a fan of heavy battoning with a knife anyway.  As a way of reducing wood down to kindling I'm all for it, but as a way to split whole logs I'm not so sure.  So if you can tap it down then fine, but if you are properly having to 'hammer' it through a piece of wood I suspect most knives will fail eventually.

Much happier with a light hatchet.

[sawman]

The lesson with that Ka-Bar is don't batton logs with full flat ground knives.  If you want a knife to batton with make sure you pick something with plenty of 'meat' behind the edge.

Personally I'm not a fan of heavy battoning with a knife anyway.  As a way of reducing wood down to kindling I'm all for it, but as a way to split whole logs I'm not so sure.  So if you can tap it down then fine, but if you are properly having to 'hammer' it through a piece of wood I suspect most knives will fail eventually.

Much happier with a light hatchet.

Just good common sense there Gareth

If I want a knife for chopping and hacking I'll buy a cheap-o machete

[RT1969]

The lesson with that Ka-Bar is don't batton logs with full flat ground knives.  If you want a knife to batton with make sure you pick something with plenty of 'meat' behind the edge.

Personally I'm not a fan of heavy battoning with a knife anyway.  As a way of reducing wood down to kindling I'm all for it, but as a way to split whole logs I'm not so sure.  So if you can tap it down then fine, but if you are properly having to 'hammer' it through a piece of wood I suspect most knives will fail eventually.

Much happier with a light hatchet.

Just good common sense there Gareth

If I want a knife for chopping and hacking I'll buy a cheap-o machete

What, you are not in favour of clamping a knife blade as hard as possibly by driving it in with a hammer, and then hitting it slightly sideways to see what happens? 
In all honesty, with a flat grind the blade has no chance but to break. How should it flex if clamped in?

But that leads me to another question:
Where does the opinion that a full tang is better for batoning come from? You hit the blade, nit the grip, so what does the last inches of the grip matter?

[sawman]

The lesson with that Ka-Bar is don't batton logs with full flat ground knives.  If you want a knife to batton with make sure you pick something with plenty of 'meat' behind the edge.

Personally I'm not a fan of heavy battoning with a knife anyway.  As a way of reducing wood down to kindling I'm all for it, but as a way to split whole logs I'm not so sure.  So if you can tap it down then fine, but if you are properly having to 'hammer' it through a piece of wood I suspect most knives will fail eventually.

Much happier with a light hatchet.

Just good common sense there Gareth

If I want a knife for chopping and hacking I'll buy a cheap-o machete

What, you are not in favour of clamping a knife blade as hard as possibly by driving it in with a hammer, and then hitting it slightly sideways to see what happens? 
In all honesty, with a flat grind the blade has no chance but to break. How should it flex if clamped in?

But that leads me to another question:
Where does the opinion that a full tang is better for batoning come from? You hit the blade, nit the grip, so what does the last inches of the grip matter?

I suppose the full tang better ensures that the handle will not break on you like this LMF II did. That's my thoughts...

[ducttapetech]

The lesson with that Ka-Bar is don't batton logs with full flat ground knives.  If you want a knife to batton with make sure you pick something with plenty of 'meat' behind the edge.

Personally I'm not a fan of heavy battoning with a knife anyway.  As a way of reducing wood down to kindling I'm all for it, but as a way to split whole logs I'm not so sure.  So if you can tap it down then fine, but if you are properly having to 'hammer' it through a piece of wood I suspect most knives will fail eventually.

Much happier with a light hatchet.

Just good common sense there Gareth

If I want a knife for chopping and hacking I'll buy a cheap-o machete

What, you are not in favour of clamping a knife blade as hard as possibly by driving it in with a hammer, and then hitting it slightly sideways to see what happens? 
In all honesty, with a flat grind the blade has no chance but to break. How should it flex if clamped in?

But that leads me to another question:
Where does the opinion that a full tang is better for batoning come from? You hit the blade, nit the grip, so what does the last inches of the grip matter?

A full tang is a tad better and help the overall strength of the knife. But there are good knives out there that are not full tang and can handle batoning and other kinds of torture, Mora being one. Hell my SOG Vulcan can baton wood and so can my CT41 There not full tangs either. You just can't over do it.
Going by the design of this Gerber, it should handle it easy. But, if the materials are not on par, it could fail or if there is a flaw or a fluke, it might fail. Not sure about this model because I have never used one. But Gerber has a sweet customer service, so they will replace it.

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[kkokkolis]

One should always baton longitudinally or diagonally and never cross-sectionally. Follow wood's architecture, don't struggle against it.

[RT1969]

So no chance of shortening this limb with only a knife? Or is there some other technique?

[ducttapetech]

Hacking around it like a hatchet.

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[DazMechanical]

Got some good news and bad news! Gerber are going to relplace the LMF2...


BUT...


I need to wait another 2 weeks or so till they get more stock in the Australian warehouse...

[sawman]

Got some good news and bad news! Gerber are going to relplace the LMF2...


BUT...


I need to wait another 2 weeks or so till they get more stock in the Australian warehouse...

Replace seems to be the key-word since I doubt they can repair it...

[DazMechanical]

Got some good news and bad news! Gerber are going to relplace the LMF2...


BUT...


I need to wait another 2 weeks or so till they get more stock in the Australian warehouse...

Replace seems to be the key-word since I doubt they can repair it...

We'll yes, there's no repairing a plastic handle, but I always ask "can you please repair my knife/ MT"
It doesn't sound like I'm trying to take them for a ride, expecting brand new stuff all the time.

[sawman]

Got some good news and bad news! Gerber are going to relplace the LMF2...


BUT...


I need to wait another 2 weeks or so till they get more stock in the Australian warehouse...

Replace seems to be the key-word since I doubt they can repair it...

We'll yes, there's no repairing a plastic handle, but I always ask "can you please repair my knife/ MT"
It doesn't sound like I'm trying to take them for a ride, expecting brand new stuff all the time.

I remember when those came out a while back and I wanted one. But the reviews of the time weren't that good so I passed. I'm still glad I did not buy a plastic handle knife.

That sux that you have to wait a couple weeks but it's good to know they're standing behind their product.

I admire fixed blade knives but since I don't carry them I actually don't currently own any (except a huge Case bowie). I used to have a BuckMaster #184 that I regret selling, that was a nice knife and I had re-profiled the blade and put a killer edge on it.

[DazMechanical]

Yeah I regret buying this knife, as soon as I get it back I'll be selling it! I purely bought it cos it looks cool, but in actual use the part serrated edge makes the knife kind of USELESS! And the 3/4 tang with plastic/ rubber handle doesn't do it any favours either! As I said I regret buying it!

[DazMechanical]

We'll I got a new LMF2 posted out! I'm pretty impressed, they said maybe 2 weeks, I got it in 3 days. Seems like that just needed a call to get them moving. So now I gotta try to sell/ trade it!

[sawman]

That's great warranty service. Now get rid of that sucker!! 

[DazMechanical]

That's great warranty service. Now get rid of that sucker!! 

That's the plan!

[derekmac]

Even though this happened to you, I'd still love to get my hands on one of these knives one day.

[sawman]

Even though this happened to you, I'd still love to get my hands on one of these knives one day.

Are you a collector of Gerber, or just admire this particular knife?

[derekmac]

Even though this happened to you, I'd still love to get my hands on one of these knives one day.

Are you a collector of Gerber, or just admire this particular knife?

No, not a collector, just have always liked the look of this knife, and it's sheath.  I'd probably never use it as I tend to grab my Gerber Warrant when I need a fixed blade.

[sawman]

Even though this happened to you, I'd still love to get my hands on one of these knives one day.

Are you a collector of Gerber, or just admire this particular knife?

No, not a collector, just have always liked the look of this knife, and it's sheath.  I'd probably never use it as I tend to grab my Gerber Warrant when I need a fixed blade.

I always thought it looked cool also and like I said, when it first came out I really wanted one. I just heard not so great things which swaded me..

[kkokkolis]

I was in love with the original LMF since 18 years old but never had the chance to hold one. I bet it was better than the modern model, Gerber's history supports that idea.

[DazMechanical]

Even though this happened to you, I'd still love to get my hands on one of these knives one day.

I'd offer to sell/ trade it to you but it probably wouldn't be worth the shipping costs.