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Which of the following Leatherman tools is easiest to remove blades from ?

Offline Anonymouslemming

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I'm looking to purchase either a Leatherman ST300, Rebar or Charge ALX. I need to remove the knife blade, saw blade and serrated knife blades permanently to make this legal to carry in the UK.

Looking at the Rebar and the ST300, I'm concerned that removing the blade will impact the remaining bits. I could remove the blades, cut them down and refit them, but I'd rather avoid that if I can.

The OHT looks like one of the easiest tools to remove these devices as they are held by security torx screws and don't share space with other bits / blades. But this isn't one of the options I'd really like for EDC.

Thanks in advance,


us Offline ducttapetech

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Welcome to MTO.
The saw blade is not allowed to lock?

live from Nate's mobile

Nate

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Offline Anonymouslemming

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Welcome to MTO.
The saw blade is not allowed to lock?

I can't get a clear answer from my MP or the local police on whether the saw is legal or not if it locks. Because it is a sharp blade, it may be interpreted as a locking blade. So I figure if I'm going to be hacking away at a tool,  I may as well just take all of the contentious items off.


ch Offline Etherealicer

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Get a Victorinox Farmer and a LM Mini :whistle:
It wouldn't be the internet without people complaining.


us Offline ducttapetech

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I would go with the St300 or Rebar. If you take the blades out of the Charge, it will damn near gut it.

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Nate

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Offline Anonymouslemming

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I would go with the St300 or Rebar. If you take the blades out of the Charge, it will damn near gut it.

Thanks ...

Is there any info out there as to what width the blades are at the point where they attach to the tool? I'm hoping that instead of taking an angle grinder to them, I can have some spacers made up to take their place.


us Offline ducttapetech

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The measurements I do not know. It might be possible to file the tang of the blades on the rebar or ST300 to keep them from locking. Not sure if that will still make it legal for you?

live from Nate's mobile

Nate

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Offline Anonymouslemming

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The measurements I do not know. It might be possible to file the tang of the blades on the rebar or ST300 to keep them from locking. Not sure if that will still make it legal for you?

I'd rather remove them entirely rather than have them there, but not locking and dangerous to use.

There are also potential legal issues on the rebar, because the knife cannot just fold away - it requires that you open the tool before folding it again. Again, a lack of clear guidance in the law here makes it tricky, so better safe than sorry.


fi Offline Crow

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  • Look at all those shiny sharp things.
You can make washers right size with sandpaper and solid table. You could use copper washers, that are little softer and easier to work with. You do not have to break tools to make it work. You can take something like bit adaptor from wave to  fill lost space, or something else...


Offline Anonymouslemming

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You can make washers right size with sandpaper and solid table. You could use copper washers, that are little softer and easier to work with. You do not have to break tools to make it work. You can take something like bit adaptor from wave to  fill lost space, or something else...

Hmm - sounds like I need to go somewhere that has stock and find 2 tools with similar sized items to swap around - nice idea.

Pity you can't do that on the internet, but hey :)


fi Offline Crow

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  • Look at all those shiny sharp things.
There are few guys at mod section, that are willing to do mods for you, if you want to.


gb Offline Cupboard

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I know I keep banging on about it, but

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,49992.msg838699.html

The blades are the same thickness as the can opener and small flat driver which are a bit thinner than the large flat driver and, scissors and awl which are all full thickness. The large bit driver and phillips are all double thickness.


Offline Anonymouslemming

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I know I keep banging on about it, but

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,49992.msg838699.html

The blades are the same thickness as the can opener and small flat driver which are a bit thinner than the large flat driver and, scissors and awl which are all full thickness. The large bit driver and phillips are all double thickness.

I've never seen you bang on about that before, so that's quite useful for me ! It's a pity that you have to trade tools to get the bits you want though instead of being able to buy them from Leatherman. I'm guessing lowtech only had the 1 spare bit you wanted.


us Offline Breezy12

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I know I keep banging on about it, but

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,49992.msg838699.html

The blades are the same thickness as the can opener and small flat driver which are a bit thinner than the large flat driver and, scissors and awl which are all full thickness. The large bit driver and phillips are all double thickness.

I don't think you're banging on about it... it's a great mod, with very useful info in the thread. it deserves a few extra links. ;)


nz Offline zoidberg

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Get both a Rebar and a Wave.
Serrated blade and saw out, large bit driver in.
Plain blade out, scissors in.
Small bit driver to keyring.
Diamond coated file to sheath.
Large screwdriver as a spare or mini prybar on keyring.
Semi gutted Wave to gge bench.


gb Offline Cupboard

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If you post in the trade forums someone might be able to help you.

I've got a few bits and bobs in my parts box but nothing that doesn't come with a Rebar.


 

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