Torque with inline Philips

[wmoco]

I want a SAK in order to go on shredding on my snowboard.

Thing is, the most important thing is the inline PH 2 screwdriver.
The amount of torque this should hold is really big, those screws keeping everything in the board in position must be tighted really hard.

As far as I know the most robust option would be a 111 or a 130... Am I right? Which one?
Or maybe because of some strange reason a 93 or 91 or 84 or 85 would hold better?

Thanks in advance!

[twiliter]

er, maybe this one? > http://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Snowboard

 

[twiliter]

But honestly I would go with this > http://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Spirit

 

[wmoco]

But honestly I would go with this > http://www.sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Spirit

 

Problem with plier based is the other handle (the one without the screwdriver) trying to turn around when you apply torque; that breaks the far pivots in half. Remember that you have an axis aligned with the screw.

[twiliter]

Yep, but the flexibility of the drivers, half open, or fully open with one handle unlatched should be do-able. My older son uses a Spirit for his board (and many other things I think)...

 

[hiraethus]

If all I wanted was a knife with a good Phillips driver I'd get a Leatherman Crater C33T/TX: http://www.leatherman.com/crater-c33t-28.html

[wmoco]

If all I wanted was a knife with a good Phillips driver I'd get a Leatherman Crater C33T/TX: http://www.leatherman.com/crater-c33t-28.html

Very well thought!

Although for this particular SAK I need:

- Excelent inline Philips 2
- Functional corkscrew 

Everything else is a bonus (and the less the better because weight).

[Top-Gear-24]

I for one have no trust in the phillips on the 111mm SAKs, I trust the one on the 93mm SAKs (Swisschamp, Explorer) a lot more than the one on the 111mm SAKs.

For a topic about the phillips on the 111mm SAKs, click here.

[wmoco]

For a topic about the phillips on the 111mm SAKs, click here.

That thread was a good read, thanks!
Anyway I need an inline Phillips this time.

[zoidberg]

My advise (based on years of snowboarding) is as follows.

Dedicated tools are worth carrying.
They are stronger, easier to handle in the cold or with gloves and work better.

MTs are better than SAKs.
Again, they are stronger and locking tools will save your knuckles.

If it has to be a SAK, look at 91mm inline models.
Any larger and you are better off with a MT.


Other things to think about.

Some bindings use multiple sized phillips screws, flat head screws and nuts.
A locking awl and cable ties etc can also be very useful.
Small ratchets are cool but the ratchet mechanism can break.
Gloves or cold fingers will drop bits.
Lanyards, tie those tools on because they will disappear when you wipe out.

[wmoco]

Woooo!!! Really well thought, thanks!

Dedicated tools are worth carrying.
They are stronger, easier to handle in the cold or with gloves and work better.
...
Some bindings use multiple sized phillips screws, flat head screws and nuts.

Fortunately my full board can be worked out 100% with a good Phillips. Everything else would mainly be to help out other people.
Now on I'll always carry my PH2 Bullit, it's a beast. Well, those few days I have a backpack at least. I like to dress light and casual. 
No backpack no dedicated screwdriver, since it would be uncomfortable and dangerous in a pocket.

If it has to be a SAK, look at 91mm inline models.

Then I'll probably stick to my loved CT34. It's cheaper to replace a lost or damaged bit than buying a full SAK. If things go south with the torque I'll have to change rivets and/or liners, I can't imagine anything else being broken in this scenario.

A locking awl and cable ties etc can also be very useful.
Small ratchets are cool but the ratchet mechanism can break.
Lanyards, tie those tools on because they will disappear when you wipe out.

Cool, I'll always carry zip ties, stay away from ratchets and lanyard the hell out of everything. 

Thanks again! 

[lowtech]

Maybe a bycicle tool with robust Phillips and something like a true utility twistik is a nice combo for your uses? big torque is not the major league of a SAK.
I use a foldable bike tool (Topeak) for my work as a JAnitor and I cranked down quite hard on the 5 mm hex many times. It takes the abuse well.
On second thought, instead of the Twistik, maybe a Vic Waiter would be a nice addition ?

[ToolJoe]

If all I wanted was a knife with a good Phillips driver I'd get a Leatherman Crater C33T/TX: http://www.leatherman.com/crater-c33t-28.html

Great knife is all I will say. I can't recommend the C33T/TX enough   

[ebarberena]

Philips screw are not really design for high torque applications. They "cam out" as you tighten them. If you want fasteners with high torque better use internal hex (some times called Allen) or Torx. If you must stay with Phillips check if your fasteners aren't really PH3. With Phillips fasteners you should always use the larger size that will fit the screw. 

I think a dedicated tool will work better. If you must stay with Victorinox I would use either of these bit holders with the correct bit size (carrying a PH2 and a PH3 bit is very easy).

http://www.knifecenter.com/item/VN41329US1/victorinox-swiss-army-bike-tool-41329us1 plus a PH3 bit minus any bit you will not need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Victorinox-Swiss-Army-BIT-WRENCH-KIT-Spirit-Swisstool-3-0303-/121301744737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3e25bc61 plus a PH2 bit.

[wmoco]

If all I wanted was a knife with a good Phillips driver I'd get a Leatherman Crater C33T/TX: http://www.leatherman.com/crater-c33t-28.html

Great knife is all I will say. I can't recommend the C33T/TX enough   

Too knife-y to carry around here... 

Maybe a bycicle tool with robust Phillips

http://www.knifecenter.com/item/VN41329US1/victorinox-swiss-army-bike-tool-41329us1 plus a PH3 bit minus any bit you will not need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Victorinox-Swiss-Army-BIT-WRENCH-KIT-Spirit-Swisstool-3-0303-/121301744737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3e25bc61 plus a PH2 bit.

Got me thinking, I'll probably look for some cheap L or T shaped bit driver, I'll have to find something that doesn't feel dangerous in a pocket. Of course, bits would be DeWalt (best ones I know yet).

[ebarberena]

[

Maybe a bycicle tool with robust Phillips

http://www.knifecenter.com/item/VN41329US1/victorinox-swiss-army-bike-tool-41329us1 plus a PH3 bit minus any bit you will not need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Victorinox-Swiss-Army-BIT-WRENCH-KIT-Spirit-Swisstool-3-0303-/121301744737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3e25bc61 plus a PH2 bit.

Got me thinking, I'll probably look for some cheap L or T shaped bit driver, I'll have to find something that doesn't feel dangerous in a pocket. Of course, bits would be DeWalt (best ones I know yet).

You can do much better than DeWalt (almost certainly made in China, lucky if made in Taiwan). I don't know what's available in Argentina but this is a list of better brands:

PB Swiss Tools: this is the manufacturer of Vic 4.1329. The PB Swiss Tools part No. is PB-470
Wera: German brand made in the Czech Rep, very good quality.
Felo: made in Germany.
Wiha: made in Germany.
Apex: if made in USA, some are made China/Taiwan.

[wmoco]

PB Swiss Tools: this is the manufacturer of Vic 4.1329. The PB Swiss Tools part No. is PB-470
Wera: German brand made in the Czech Rep, very good quality.
Felo: made in Germany.
Wiha: made in Germany.
Apex: if made in USA, some are made China/Taiwan.

Great! I'm always open to learn about good brand names. And yeah, those do seem difficult to get around here.