Maintenance and cleaning question: WD-40 No More!!! New solution please!!!

[mrHat]

Hello, I own and sell lot's of multitools and the first step i take when i purchase one it's to wash it with hot water and some dishwashing liquid detergent, rinse in hot water, dry out with paper towel or cotton cloth and then soak it in wd-40. I let it sit a few hours and then clean the excess wd-40 with a cotton cloth. I'm doing the wd-40 because i'm afraid water can still be left behind and know this is a good water displacement agent.

My question: after cleaning with hot water and detergent and drying everything if I apply lubrication only to the moving parts..., will the lube make any leftover water go away? I just want to ditch the wd-40... I no longer stand the smell of it after years and years of using it (it's no longer nice

Thank you! Any other tips would be appreciated.

[NKlamerus]

I would just hit the tool with some compressed air after cleaning, then is mineral oil for moving parts.

Doesnt smell it's got a tiny bit more thickness too it.

It's also 100% safe for consumption.

[SAK Guy]

I would just hit the tool with some compressed air after cleaning, then is mineral oil for moving parts.

Doesnt smell it's got a tiny bit more thickness too it.

It's also 100% safe for consumption.

+1 and I use a blow dryer to heat the metal slightly so it dries inside as well.

[Flint Hills]

I do exactly what these guys do.

Step 1: Wash in hot soapy water and rinse well, then wipe out as best I can with paper towels.

Step 2: Blow them out with compressed air.

Step 3: Heat/dry with my wife's hairdryer.

Step 4: Put a drop of mineral oil in the joints then wipe off the excess with paper towels.

[gregpost]

I used the oil that Wahl bundles with its hair clippers and that has worked better than anything I've ever used. I think it's similar to sewing machine oil.

[powernoodle]

i'm afraid water can still be left behind and know this is a good water displacement agent.

Like the lads have said, heat and air will remove 100% of the water.  If you get the MT so warm with a hair dryer or heat gun that you can barely handle it, you can be assured that no moisture remains.  And one drop of oil on the pivots will restore smooth operation.  No worries.

[Tomcat_81]

My tools are allowed to sleep on the radiator after a bath.
Afterwards some camellia oil ( safe for human consumption) and all's fine ;-)
Tomcat

[Neko2]

If you get it that hot, don't you risk ruining the temper?

[sLaughterMed]

If you get it that hot, don't you risk ruining the temper?

Hot to the touch is pretty far from the red hot temps that ruin the treatment.

When you start burning yourself on  your knives.... then you can start worrying about harming the temper.

[anditsgone]

I always use hypoid oil. It is a thick oil that is used in the rear axle's of cars and truck. It does take a little bit of fiddling to get between the tools. Especially with a swisstool. But because it is a thick oil it doesn't evaporate and it is really water resistant.

I never liked wd 40 because i have the feeling it  evaporates in 24 hours. The hypoid oil doesn't have this.

It does have a pretty strong smell to it and i dont think it is for human consumption But i always wipe of all the excess oil.

[scanman]

I use Starrett oil. Meant for gage tools.

[Sea Monster]

I clean with Brake Cleaner, then use Singer Oil*

Same goes for all my tools with moving parts.

*Generally speaking. I've been known to use gun oil, engine oil, gear oil, or any other thing I've got laying around.


Something else you might consider is Moly Dry Lube, I've not used it on tools, but I've used it on threads and sprockets.
I don't recommend eating it

[cody6268]

Dish Detergent and warm water then lubricate with Victorinox Tool Oil.  If I'm out of that, I use WD-40.   

Problem with using some of these chemicals--they might damage plastic parts.

[Fortytwo]

Dish Detergent and warm water then lubricate with Victorinox Tool Oil.  If I'm out of that, I use WD-40.   

Problem with using some of these chemicals--they might damage plastic parts.

And discolour discolour wood (and possibly other fibrous materials I guess).

[Smaug]

In my opinion, the WD-40 was a superfluous step to begin with. (unless you're talking about carbon steel knives and storing them long-term after cleaning)

These days, I rarely lubricate the MTs unless they obviously need it. It just attracts dirt, and these moving parts are not like car engines, where parts are grinding against one another at high speed and high temperatures. This is hardened steel that is subjected to just a tiny bit of friction at a time, and at low temperatures.

[Grant Lamontagne]

Ahem....


Def

[Grathr]

But where can one get some of that amazing "Uncle Def's premium tool oil"? 

[Grant Lamontagne]

Supply is temporarily unavailable due to me being mid-move but I'll make it available as soon as the dust settles.


Def

[Wanimator]

I always use hypoid oil. It is a thick oil that is used in the rear axle's of cars and truck. It does take a little bit of fiddling to get between the tools. Especially with a swisstool. But because it is a thick oil it doesn't evaporate and it is really water resistant.

I never liked wd 40 because i have the feeling it  evaporates in 24 hours. The hypoid oil doesn't have this.

It does have a pretty strong smell to it and i dont think it is for human consumption But i always wipe of all the excess oil.

I've thought about trying Gear oil, what brand/type do you use?

[Gerhard Gerber]

You could just change your sequence.....

I spray new knives and MT's down with WD40, then wash them with hot water and dishwashing soap.

Feels to me like that cleans the knife/tool and a bit of lube stays behind where it's supposed to be.

[Etherealicer]

 

[Joe58]

On sticky or cruddy knives I've had good luck using Ballistol. Really an amazing product, albeit with kind of a funky odor but that dissipates pretty quickly.

I clean out the cracks and crevices with rifle patches and dental picks. Then maybe rinse again with Ballistol if needed.

If I'm just oiling, then Militec, Inox, Blue Lube, about whichever one I grab off the shelf. I myself really haven't noticed much difference.

Quite awhile back, I read an argument on a forum about WD-40 and the detractors cited that WD-40 is for water displacement, the WD, and doesn't have lubrication properties. I did my own research and found this on the companies site. Some good info I thought, as well as a couple humorous stories.

Your mileage many vary of course. Everyone has their own methods and preference.

http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts

[Tomcat_81]

Careful with Ballistol though- it was made to eat away the tombak residue from gunbarrels.
And thus sadly also corrodes copper alloys like brass and bronce.
But the smell will definitely keep wife and kids away from ones' tools ;-)

Tomcat

[Obi1shinobee]

Ahem....


Def

WHERE DO I ORDER THOSE 

[Joe58]

Careful with Ballistol though- it was made to eat away the tombak residue from gunbarrels.
And thus sadly also corrodes copper alloys like brass and bronce.
But the smell will definitely keep wife and kids away from ones' tools ;-)

Tomcat

I had heard this before about Ballistol and brass, so I had emailed them directly and asked. My response was no, that's a rumor, and it is even recommended to polish brass. He did add the caveat that it could possibly mar the finish on brass if left very heavily coated, or submerged in Ballistol for a very very long time. But a lightly wiped knife/gun down is fine. So who knows. Accuracy is likely somewhere in the middle. Lol.

But, on a knife I'm storing away, I use a light coating of regular gun type oil, and wrap in that vapor paper stuff, or the waxed/grease paper. If I have a box, I usually add one of those little dessicant packs too just cause it makes me feel good. Funny thing about that, I feel good after I chew one or two of those little dessicant packs as well. Thirsty, but good. I'm just kidding now of course. My odd sense of humor. Kids don't try that at home.

I've used it on firearms and knives for a long time with no ill effects. On metal, plastics, wood. All good. It was suggested I try it on musty smelling old leather Buck knife sheaths, so I'm waiting to try that when they get back from the spa. I had asked Buck if there was something they might do with them. We'll see.

I do think it's better than WD-40. But as always, folks need to do their due diligence and determine what works best for them.  

http://www.ballistol.com/uses/

http://www.ballistol.com/faqs/

[kmanct3]

+1 for mineral oil , compressed air  , wash with mild soap and water 

[Daark]

I usually put them in a bowl of rice overnight. If it has to be quick, you can use medical alcohol (you can get it in a drug store in Austria). This is actually something we used for electrical equipment but as the rice works well (though slow), this is kind of an emergency solution, if you need it.

[Singh]

For cleaning, I've used an odorless mineral spirits bath. Soak and scrub.  That stuff will dissolve most gunk.

For lubrication, Mineral Oil is king: food safe, cheap, odorless.

[Steinar]

Ballistol is good stuff, but as long as you don't need its specific properties, pure mineral oil (liquid paraffin for those of us east of the Atlantic) is great. Both Ballistol and mineral oil is food safe, but you can get the mineral oil in any pharmacy. I think Ballistol is superior if you need the cleaning or water displacing properties, for simply oiling and protecting dry steel against rust and moisture/water, I prefer mineral oil because it's utterly neutral and I don't have to worry about any corrosive properties.

[Tomcat_81]

@Joe58: Thanks, something learned again!