Cleaning your tools. Tips & tricks.

[kaput]

Can anyone give me some knowledge on how to clean my tools. I normally take extreme care of my gear, while using them.

What do I do, I have gotten sand and dirt into one of my multi tools and SAKs from camping and time at the lake. I wiped them down, but closing them feels stiff and gritty now. 

Any tips or tricks would be great, or links to threads or videos too. Thanks

[Kampfer]

The best way I found to keep them nice and clean is lock them up in their boxes and never touch them. 

[DaveK]

I'd say it depends on the tool.

If it's an all-stainless tool without fancy finishes or paint - I chuck them in a bowl of hot water with washing up liquid and work the pivots with an old toothbrush.

Rinse thoroughly under a running tap, open up all the tools and leave them to dry on tissue paper over night.

Then lubricate with a light oil (I use stuff called Nano-oil but I'm not sure if you can still get it)

but as a general rule, sand = kryptonite

[kaput]

I'd say it depends on the tool.

If it's an all-stainless tool without fancy finishes or paint - I chuck them in a bowl of hot water with washing up liquid and work the pivots with an old toothbrush.

Rinse thoroughly under a running tap, open up all the tools and leave them to dry on tissue paper over night.

Then lubricate with a light oil (I use stuff called Nano-oil but I'm not sure if you can still get it)

but as a general rule, sand = kryptonite

So the leatherman was only a Wingman  and I brought my everyday SAK electrician. So the method you mentioned is that ok to do with these or the SAK in particular?

Although it would make sense to lock them up or not bring them, this is a time where they'd be of the most use.    Also why I didn't bring my pride and joys.

Those are the times I did wish I had a fixed blade, to avoid these issues. But, I needed tools as I was assembling items for use 

[DaveK]

Yeah the Leatherman will take it. For the SAK just make sure the water isn't so hot that it softens the celidor scales, don't scrub the logo directly with the toothbrush, open all the tools up so you can get in there and work away.

That'll get the worst of it out

[Sea Monster]

For the Sidekick, any parts wash should do - Kerosene, Diesel, WD-40 (or your local variant), Degreaser, warm soapy water, and a Toothbrush or what-have-you.



For the SAK, maybe something gentler (ie- no solvents). Degreaser, warm soapy water.

Then dry and oil them.

Happy days.

[kaput]

Ok. Are these all good to soak, or to spray and work the tools open and close? And scrub what hinges and pivots can be gotten with a brush? I've never really needed to do this before... So any details are great. Thanks

Also I really dislike tree sap. But rubbing alcohol and a qtip seem to work well for that.

[ColoSwiss]

Pipe cleaners and a fine-tip screwdriver work well for cleaning gunk out of the small channels on SAKs.

[captain spaulding]

I think I put together a cleaning guide in the past, but may be mistaken. It really depends on the tool and what kind of cleaning you want to do, but for the most part you can just use warm water and dawn dish soap on any knife, tool, or multitool. I have cleaned more knives than I care to remember just using those and a toothbrush.

I do not want to write out a full guide right now so here is my "general" cleaning process.


- Rinse tool under warm tap water. Open tools and work all tools under the water including pliers.

- Put dish soap on a toothbrush like its toothpaste and just go to town scrubbing every inch of the tool. Get in the pivots, under the pivots, all around and moving parts and just everything in general.

- Rinse well.

- Repeat the wash.

- Rinse again and rinse very well. Work every moving part under the running water or in a bowl of water.

- Dry. This is probably the most important part in my opinion. I used to use a air compressor, but moved and cannot use it now. I dry with a paper towel very well and then used the canned air (dust-off) to blast air from inside all the pivot areas. Then either let dry outside (depending on the tool material) or let it air dry for a few days in my house.

- Oil the pivots and your good to go.


Rust removal is a different story which I have experimented with a bunch and had great results.

[Kev D]

Then lubricate with a light oil (I use stuff called Nano-oil but I'm not sure if you can still get it)

Yep you can still get it 

http://www.fenixtorch.co.uk/Shop/Accessories/Other/13152-Nano-Oil.html

There's a good review of it here to... http://www.kukriblades.com/nano-oil-review-best-knife-lubricant-for-smooth-delpoyment/

[DaveK]

That's the stuff Kev - thanks 

I actually got mine through this forum from the guy that brought it to market - can't remember his name though 

I recall it worked out really expensive as you had to order from the US, so its great to see you can get it here now (I like fenixtorch.co.uk too, good guy

EDIT: In fact a quick search reminds me that I got it as a freebie with a trade: http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,11242.msg208203.html#msg208203

But I notice that there have been recent GAWs of nano-oil on here too, which is great. I love the stuff.
 

[Kev D]

I've just ordered some from there. We all pay a lot for our multi's so thought I'd treat mine to some decent oil in the pivots and joints.

[Smaug]

I do similar to what our English friend does.

I start with the toothpick to get the big pieces of lint out of the joints.

Then, a toothbrush while still dry to get more. Better than a toothbrush is a gun cleaning brush. The bristles are long enough to really get in there, where those of a toothbrush usually aren't.

THEN I put them in a bowl of warm water and dish detergent and open and close the implements, so anything else falls out.

When I'm done, I DON'T use oil, as that really pulls in the dust and lint. The operation is not quite as buttery smooth as just after oiling, but it also stays clean a lot longer. The oil isn't really necessary for longevity. You won't wear one out. If you insist on some lube, dry graphite is probably better.

Footnote: They stay clean probably 5X as long when pouch-carried vs. pocket.

[Gohard]

I do more or less the same. Use compressed air to blow out all sand, mud,grime and whatever is stuck in them. Then a wash and another blow. Might get a lube if available. 90% of my tools gets used and is not there for a dress rehearsal. I do look after them and not one of my tools that I bought new got a rust spot on them. If I cant blow them dry, I don't clean them. Only wipe. Water=rust.
Got a few tools that has got a few corrosion spots on them.  But I got them in that condition.

I carry them only in a leather sheath that protect them from corrosion. The leather will  absorb any moisture up to a certain degree. Well thats my opinion.

[captain spaulding]

I do more or less the same. Use compressed air to blow out all sand, mud,grime and whatever is stuck in them. Then a wash and another blow. Might get a lube if available. 90% of my tools gets used and is not there for a dress rehearsal. I do look after them and not one of my tools that I bought new got a rust spot on them. If I cant blow them dry, I don't clean them. Only wipe. Water=rust.
Got a few tools that has got a few corrosion spots on them.  But I got them in that condition.

I carry them only in a leather sheath that protect them from corrosion. The leather will  absorb any moisture up to a certain degree. Well thats my opinion.

As far as carrying in leather to prevent corrosion. In my option leather is not great to store or carry your tools if you want rust prevention. As you said yourself the leather absorbs moisture which means your tool is wrapped in a semi moist material constantly. This is less than ideal when you want to prevent rust. I'm not saying if you carry in leather you will for sure get rust as other factors come into play like your location and weather patterns as well as proximity to the ocean.

[Gohard]

Yes I totally agree and it makes sense what you say.

 BUT

Not so sure about the location. Reason is that I live at the coast and work everywhere in The region. (1000 to 2500km away)All kinds of weather patterns. I repair and sometimes wash big earthmoving machinery in all kinds of weather. Come rain or shine. Sometimes soaked to the bone. Sometimes On my back in muddy conditions. (Hate that).
And not even once have I removed my leatherman.  Leather sheath saturated with water at times. But no rust on any tool.  I've been carrying my new wave since 2012 at work. Prior to that was my trusty 300 and before that my OG wave that some smurfised person took. And all leather sheath carried. But like I said. I don't clean it if I cant blow dry the tool.

I've been carrying leatherman for over 20 years and had no rust or corrosion yet. Touch wood. Hope I didn't get jinxed.

Maybe because I work daily with oily and greasy equipment.☹️☹️☹️And the tools always got a oily dirty layer? Don't know. Or maybe I got the super dooper special stainless steel models. Need to thank Tim for that.

Just joking.

[G-Dizzle]

I think I put together a cleaning guide in the past, but may be mistaken. It really depends on the tool and what kind of cleaning you want to do, but for the most part you can just use warm water and dawn dish soap on any knife, tool, or multitool. I have cleaned more knives than I care to remember just using those and a toothbrush.

I do not want to write out a full guide right now so here is my "general" cleaning process.


- Rinse tool under warm tap water. Open tools and work all tools under the water including pliers.

- Put dish soap on a toothbrush like its toothpaste and just go to town scrubbing every inch of the tool. Get in the pivots, under the pivots, all around and moving parts and just everything in general.

- Rinse well.

- Repeat the wash.

- Rinse again and rinse very well. Work every moving part under the running water or in a bowl of water.

- Dry. This is probably the most important part in my opinion. I used to use a air compressor, but moved and cannot use it now. I dry with a paper towel very well and then used the canned air (dust-off) to blast air from inside all the pivot areas. Then either let dry outside (depending on the tool material) or let it air dry for a few days in my house.

- Oil the pivots and your good to go.


Rust removal is a different story which I have experimented with a bunch and had great results.

The Captain Spaulding method is the way to go!!! +1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gohard]

Captain S,I'm interested in the rust removal tips you got. Can you share this with us please. Bought a few tools that got minor spots on them. Don't really want to disassemble everyone of them.

[G-Dizzle]

Captain S,I'm interested in the rust removal tips you got. Can you share this with us please. Bought a few tools that got minor spots on them. Don't really want to disassemble everyone of them.

+1 on that as well!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kaput]

Thanks everyone for the personal experiences and in depth descriptions. As straight forward as it seems it's good to have a heads and has helped me (and others I'd assume).

   look, works so well 

[cody6268]

This is my method for used knives, tools, and multitools I get.   Cleaning is a little less extreme.

If I can't get the blades open--hose the thing down in WD-40 and let it set about 4 hours at least.

Then, rust is removed with an SOS pad and WD-40 as a cutting fluid.  Usually, the SOS pad is already well used and devoid of its soap.

The whole thing is scrubbed with extra strength dish detergent and  warm water.  I use Victorinox's care tip when the blades are grimy around the pivots--opening and shutting it repetitively in the soap and water.

Then, I dry it, oil it with baby oil and a small dropper I found in some of my stuff a while back. I wipe high carbon stainless and carbon steel blades with oil to prevent it rusting.  Then, I either put it away or slip it in my pocket.

[Pacu]

baahh, when mine gets dirty i just toss it in the garbage and buy a new one. 

I'm with Capt. on cleaning methods.

If something is super rusty i use a vinegar soak then start to work with the elbow grease.

[Gohard]

Rust remover I use molasses. Works brilliantly.

[jcs0001]

I use the hosmurfer/soap method then brush and lubricate however have never had to clean a tool with a BO surface.  Is the BO susceptible to any lubricants or cleaning fluids or is it ok to do the same to them as a stainless surface.

Thanks,

John.

[Poncho65]

OK I can't decipher hosmurfer

 

[Poncho65]

Good thread guys I admit I don't clean my tools as I should Sometimes they get oiled though

[DaveK]

OK I can't decipher hosmurfer

 

Hot water.

[Pacu]

hosmurfer!   

[jcs0001]

Hot water is correct.  Don't know where the hosmurfer came from.

Anyway I am wondering if one needs to take special care with a BO finish.

Thanks. John

[ducttapetech]

I dont. I clean it the same way as everything else.