Quote from: 50ft-trad on July 30, 2017, 05:59:47 PMGreat thread, and very useful Going back to the original motivation for a moment though, are we sure that it's the brass that's not up to the job. If the pins need repeening, they may be stretching, OR the peened heads may just be "settling" in the holes. I had this happen on one of my mods - everything was tight, but it became a little sloppy with gaps between layers without doing much work. The pins weren't stretching, but the peened heads were pulling in slightly. It may have been that when I was peening, the knife was adequately supported but not the pin itself, and this may have floated slightly when peening the second side.Hopefully that makes sense Good point... That could be the case too... I suspected that initially... I used the same type of brass pins for my other mods, and I never had to re-peen... The brass pin material available locally could also be different from those available overseas... The ones I have are actually brass welding rods... I once tried brass pins made in Germany... they were tougher to cut...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great thread, and very useful Going back to the original motivation for a moment though, are we sure that it's the brass that's not up to the job. If the pins need repeening, they may be stretching, OR the peened heads may just be "settling" in the holes. I had this happen on one of my mods - everything was tight, but it became a little sloppy with gaps between layers without doing much work. The pins weren't stretching, but the peened heads were pulling in slightly. It may have been that when I was peening, the knife was adequately supported but not the pin itself, and this may have floated slightly when peening the second side.Hopefully that makes sense
Quote from: jaya_man on July 30, 2017, 06:28:11 PMQuote from: 50ft-trad on July 30, 2017, 05:59:47 PMGreat thread, and very useful Going back to the original motivation for a moment though, are we sure that it's the brass that's not up to the job. If the pins need repeening, they may be stretching, OR the peened heads may just be "settling" in the holes. I had this happen on one of my mods - everything was tight, but it became a little sloppy with gaps between layers without doing much work. The pins weren't stretching, but the peened heads were pulling in slightly. It may have been that when I was peening, the knife was adequately supported but not the pin itself, and this may have floated slightly when peening the second side.Hopefully that makes sense Good point... That could be the case too... I suspected that initially... I used the same type of brass pins for my other mods, and I never had to re-peen... The brass pin material available locally could also be different from those available overseas... The ones I have are actually brass welding rods... I once tried brass pins made in Germany... they were tougher to cut...Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI meant to talk about brass head forming practices and what Ive learned and this reminded me. In most of the tutorials people show to form the head on one end first then assemble. DONT! Put the pins in unformed and trim to length then peen both heads so they form into the space available. Think about how the space you want to fill is like a countersunk V shape and forming a mushroom head to fit that is not the best fit, and one reason rivets made this way will loosen. I peen all my 91mm mods this way now so the brass forms nicely into the bushings. It just takes a few taps on one end at a time, and if you have too much brass, file or grind as you work.
Quote from: Syph007 on July 31, 2017, 12:39:20 AMQuote from: jaya_man on July 30, 2017, 06:28:11 PMQuote from: 50ft-trad on July 30, 2017, 05:59:47 PMGreat thread, and very useful Going back to the original motivation for a moment though, are we sure that it's the brass that's not up to the job. If the pins need repeening, they may be stretching, OR the peened heads may just be "settling" in the holes. I had this happen on one of my mods - everything was tight, but it became a little sloppy with gaps between layers without doing much work. The pins weren't stretching, but the peened heads were pulling in slightly. It may have been that when I was peening, the knife was adequately supported but not the pin itself, and this may have floated slightly when peening the second side.Hopefully that makes sense Good point... That could be the case too... I suspected that initially... I used the same type of brass pins for my other mods, and I never had to re-peen... The brass pin material available locally could also be different from those available overseas... The ones I have are actually brass welding rods... I once tried brass pins made in Germany... they were tougher to cut...Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI meant to talk about brass head forming practices and what Ive learned and this reminded me. In most of the tutorials people show to form the head on one end first then assemble. DONT! Put the pins in unformed and trim to length then peen both heads so they form into the space available. Think about how the space you want to fill is like a countersunk V shape and forming a mushroom head to fit that is not the best fit, and one reason rivets made this way will loosen. I peen all my 91mm mods this way now so the brass forms nicely into the bushings. It just takes a few taps on one end at a time, and if you have too much brass, file or grind as you work. I discovered that if you hit the Brass rod head on just right, repeatedly, the end sort of "bulges" out, increasing in diameter slightly. I think that combined with a nicely formed head, the "bulge" helps fill the brushing?I hear what you say about not preening until the rod is in the SAK, but I can preen my best when the rod is spinning on a drill.
Quote from: Pablo O'Brien on July 31, 2017, 12:46:09 AMQuote from: Syph007 on July 31, 2017, 12:39:20 AMQuote from: jaya_man on July 30, 2017, 06:28:11 PMQuote from: 50ft-trad on July 30, 2017, 05:59:47 PMGreat thread, and very useful Going back to the original motivation for a moment though, are we sure that it's the brass that's not up to the job. If the pins need repeening, they may be stretching, OR the peened heads may just be "settling" in the holes. I had this happen on one of my mods - everything was tight, but it became a little sloppy with gaps between layers without doing much work. The pins weren't stretching, but the peened heads were pulling in slightly. It may have been that when I was peening, the knife was adequately supported but not the pin itself, and this may have floated slightly when peening the second side.Hopefully that makes sense Good point... That could be the case too... I suspected that initially... I used the same type of brass pins for my other mods, and I never had to re-peen... The brass pin material available locally could also be different from those available overseas... The ones I have are actually brass welding rods... I once tried brass pins made in Germany... they were tougher to cut...Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI meant to talk about brass head forming practices and what Ive learned and this reminded me. In most of the tutorials people show to form the head on one end first then assemble. DONT! Put the pins in unformed and trim to length then peen both heads so they form into the space available. Think about how the space you want to fill is like a countersunk V shape and forming a mushroom head to fit that is not the best fit, and one reason rivets made this way will loosen. I peen all my 91mm mods this way now so the brass forms nicely into the bushings. It just takes a few taps on one end at a time, and if you have too much brass, file or grind as you work. I discovered that if you hit the Brass rod head on just right, repeatedly, the end sort of "bulges" out, increasing in diameter slightly. I think that combined with a nicely formed head, the "bulge" helps fill the brushing?I hear what you say about not preening until the rod is in the SAK, but I can preen my best when the rod is spinning on a drill. Interesting... my firsts few mods were peened they way Robert explained... It was challenging for me... a few bent pins in the process... And then I found this impact drill trick... convenient... of course it still needed a few taps here and there so that the pin head will fit nicely into the 91mm bushings... not aesthetically pleasing though... but then celidor scales will hide the ugly peen job... of course exposed pins are a different story... would have to be careful with metal scales...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the end sort of "bulges" out, increasing in diameter slightly. I think that combined with a nicely formed head, the "bulge" helps fill the brushing?
I asked for it, didn't I?
Quote from: Pablo O'Brien on July 31, 2017, 12:09:17 PMI asked for it, didn't I? You can't help yourself this morning can you P?
Thanks Guys The pivots were part of a deal I had with Tattoosteve99... An awesome guy and friend... A good person to deal with...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
"...I've been holding off on buying the 1/8" pivots from the recommended place as they have a $US 50 minimum order (not including postage) for overseas buyers..."
Getting peened heads to look good is a practice thing. Lots of it. Also the torx pivots were made by someone else with a cnc machine and not anyone here. The "brass" pivots are not brass but a special copper that was heat treated. They were made specifically for me to my specs. As Syph can tell you quality matters when it comes to pivots. Btw, I'm still around and lurk in the shadows always watching.
The pivot barrels are 0.5" in length...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What was the length of the pivots used for this mod?It seems that the longest 1/8" pivot that are available are 0.5" and the longest 3.0mm tap that l can find is about 14 mm.I'm now thinking that if l get some 3.0mm pivots made, the tapped hole wont go all the way through.
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