One of these, Jors?
https://www.heinnie.com/joseph-rodgers-clip-point-stainless-steelI'm going to be doing some rescaling with bolsters soon, and here's how I'm going to be approaching it.
Dismantle the knife completely, and pin bolsters on either side of the pivot hole (if you have a TIG welder, you could puddle weld them from the inside face of the liners). I am assuming that if that is the blade style, you'll only be having bolsters at the pivot end. Epoxy and pin on the wood scales. Note, the pins for the scales and bolsters do not have to be square, in fact some of the Little Mesters in Sheffield, used to drill them off-square on purpose. The thinking behind this being that they give a stronger connection, just like knocking nails in at differing angles do on a wood joint. If drilled from the outer face side, you can get the pin heads showing where you want them, and it doesn't matter where they end up on the inside. Be sure to countersink the inner faces of the liner (on bolster and scale pins), so the peened heads can be sanded flush, but still be secure.
Flip the scales and liners over, and sand the inside faces flat and drill through the clearance holes for the blade pivot and backspring, ensuring that they
are square. Again, the old timers used to drill these holes with tapered bits, so that the pin material had room to expand and give a secure hold. You can fake this by mixing metric and imperial drills, and lets pretend the pivot hole is 3mm, you could counter bore this slightly with a 1/8" drill bit (3.175mm) from the outer side. It doesn't sound much, but it's enough to make a difference so that you're not just relying on a peened head, most of which you are planning of sanding away to make it look pretty anyway
I hope that helps
Donations
Community Links
