Getting That "Snap" Back?

[this_is_nascar]

Is it simply a matter of cleaning your SAK in order to get that snap back?  Several of mine no longer snap back in place, rather they just silently close when pushed.


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[VICMAN]

After removing any dirt from the knife I have had the best luck restoring the snap using 3-IN-1 oil.

After applying the oil to the knife at the base of the blade where it meets the backspring, open and close the blade a number of times until it frees up.

I have used WD40, REM OIL, VIC OIL, and various others, but the 3-IN-1
seems to restore the snap the easiest for me.

[cody6268]

Typically cleaning the pocket lint and other nasty stuff out of the pivot area by repetitively opening and closing the submerged blade then oiling it (with 3-in-1 or gun oil, my two current choices) should bring it back. If that doesn't work, I check for a damaged liner, then file the damaged, raised area away.  And if that doesn't work, you might as well contact warranty. It's probably a worn tang, damaged pin, or backspring.

[Mactire404]

This is how I do it:

SAK Cleaning
Getting rid of large particles
- Clean under running water with a brush, tools closed
- Clean under running water with a brush, tools open
- Open/close tools under running water

Getting rid of oils and small particles
- Place tool in a ultrasonic cleaner with properly warmed water (keep scale/tool meltingpoints in mind) with lots of dish soap.
- Put the SAK through a few cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Dry SAK thoroughly to prevent it from attracting dust and dirt. And also to prevent staining.

Apply minimal appropriate lubriacation, I use either Victorinox Multitool Oil or Ballistol Oil.

It's a guarantied recipe to put the snap back in the SAK!

[Don Pablo]

This is how I do it:

SAK Cleaning
Getting rid of large particles
- Clean under running water with a brush, tools closed
- Clean under running water with a brush, tools open
- Open/close tools under running water

Getting rid of oils and small particles
- Place tool in a ultrasonic cleaner with properly warmed water (keep scale/tool meltingpoints in mind) with lots of dish soap.
- Put the SAK through a few cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Dry SAK thoroughly to prevent it from attracting dust and dirt. And also to prevent staining.

Apply minimal appropriate lubriacation, I use either Victorinox Multitool Oil or Ballistol Oil.

It's a guarantied recipe to put the snap back in the SAK!

For the back tools, sometimes they can simply wear out the spring and tang, if they are of an old enough vintage.   

[Mactire404]

For the back tools, sometimes they can simply wear out the spring and tang, if they are of an old enough vintage.   

Unfortunately I don't have any SAKs old enough

[Don Pablo]

For the back tools, sometimes they can simply wear out the spring and tang, if they are of an old enough vintage.   

Unfortunately I don't have any SAKs old enough

A friend found a climber small, and gave it to me. It seems to be from the 70's, and before I took it apart, the Corkscrew was sooo floppy, and the main and small blades had little tension. The culprit seems to be that the Corkscrew tang is slightly worn away, and the corresponding part of the spring also. 

[this_is_nascar]

Great info.  Thanks everyone.


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[Mizedog]

In a pinch,  I've used lip balm.  What's nice about that is that you can go directly to pocket carry with no worry of leaking oil. 

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[NorCalJim]

I go with Victorinox's own recommendation of cleaning. Unless there is a wear or alignment problem, cleaning nails it every time (at least it has for me).  When purchasing off e-bay, I try to stick with SAKs in excellent condition. If I can see obvious dirt along with worn scales, I pop the scales for a thorough cleaning.  If I plan to use the SAK, I want it in top condition and VERY clean. I open the tools and liberally coat it with dishwashing soap and place it along with any others getting this treatment in a bucket and submerse them in hot water to soak for 2 hours. After 2 hours, I start to clean them with brushes, pipe cleaners and running water.  I finish up with a hair dryer before lubing the tools (less is more).  I test the tools for snap and cleaning returns the snap unless there is a spring wear or an alignment problem.  I then inspect the tools more carefully and if warranted, will proceed to my tool recondition process involving sanding with progressively finer automotive wet/dry sandpaper and polishing/buffing with my Dremel using a polishing wheel. Usually, one or both blades may have some scratches that can be removed with this process and the polishing leaves a mirror finish. My final step, if I have popped the scales, is to install new scales for a SAK that looks like new.

Jim