Does anyone use pop rivets for SAKs etc?

[Andreas]

Pop rivets is something I've never really known how works - I've seen them around work and my grandfathers old workshop (now my workshop) but I've never actually used then, so just now I went to YouTube to see how - and those things look brilliant. My question is, has anyone ever used pop rivets for holding together modded SAKs or other tools? can you grind down the end of the rivets afterwards or will they then fall off?

I have on my way a Squirt S4 and PS4 which combined with my P4 will hopefully make me a SuperSquirt. That will leave me with a bunch of leftover parts but no way to put them together (using PS4 pivots for the mod), so my hope was that this would allow me to use those parts for some other custom Squirts

[Sparky415]

They are normally used on sheet metal where you have a good side and a hidden side
If you were to grind the rough lumpy bit off it would fall apart

Can you use brass rod and dome the top over for your new tool? 

[Andreas]

I could but pop rivets seem so much easier  

Also are you sure they would fall off if you grind them down slightly? I don't mean all the way of course, but just so it's a smaller "end cap". It seems to me (without actual experience with such) that the way these work would allow you to grind down the tip a bit as long as there's still something left to "hook" the other end

[Sparky415]

This is what I call a pop rivet
Is this the sort of thing you are thinking of

I don't think your idea would work to be honest but if it does please
 come back and tell me I am wrong as it would make some kinds of
 modding a lot easier 

[Andreas]

That's it-  From what I have understood, when it's securely in place the end of the main part has been pulled into a large mass to secure the thing in palce. It seems to me then that if you sand down that mass a bit you will still have some left that will hold it together. As I said though, never used one, so I don't know - going to buy a set tomorrow

[zepla]

I've used those a lot and I really do not thing it will work. It would just be ugly and sanding down the ugly part, I'm pretty sure that does not work. Well, it least when you sanding it down to something smooth and pretty. Like Sparky said, if you have a hidden side they are great but in this case 

But what the h*ll, give it a go and see what happens. If it doesn't work out nice you will always have a handy tool for the workshop. And besides that, it is an excellent excuse to go out and buy a new tool 

[Sparky415]

I will go and rivet a can or something together and take a picture for you to look at 

[Andreas]

It's a cheap tool that is worth having anyways. You speak of hidden sides, which makes me think it might be possible to use this for SAKs since I make custom wooden skales anyways, or do they stick out too much?

[Sparky415]

The best tip I can give you is to make sure the thing is pushed hard home before you start crimping it up with the handles 

If I was doing a proper job with metal this thin I would have added a washer to the back (lumpy) side first 

Hope this helps/makes sense

[Gareth]

Main issue would be that you have almost no control over the tension of the rivet.  So you're either going to end up far to tight and have the tools bind (most likely IMO), or too loose and have a bundle of lateral play.   Of course I'm only guessing as I've never tried to pop-rivet a SAK together, but I've used them on many other bits of metal work and I just can't see it working out.

[Andreas]

(Image removed from quote.)

Thanks! This is the part I'm wondering if it's possible at all to sand down. OR if it's possible to remove the actual rivet (not the pin) before crimping in order to cut it down to size. I mean, if you have a SAK that is 8mm thick and you have a 12mm rivet, then maybe it would be possible to cut it down to 10mm and thread it back onto the pin and then crimp it. You'd then crimp only 2mm of spare rivet and the lump on the back wouldn't be so big. Maybe even hammer it down afterwards.

I also see from the (name of Norwegian has-everything-store)-catalogue that they have rivets with various lengths, with "max grip" for 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 8.7, 9.5 and 12.5mm. That has to give some flexibility with regards to that remaining lump. You should also at least be able to sand down what's left of the pin at the back there, since that doesn't  serve a purpose

I guess I'll find out tomorrow. At 129NOK ($20) for a set with crimper and rivets it's a tool I want even if I can't use it for this

[Sparky415]

Good luck with it!
I am watching with interest 

[John]

And how would you attach the scales to a pop rivet? 

[Andreas]

Same way I attach them to brass rods: super glue

[Gareth]

Well I'll be interested to see if this works out.  Best of luck Andreas. 

[John]

Same way I attach them to brass rods: super glue

Just don't drop it from a height   planes are glued together and have you seen the mess they make when they hit the ground   

[Andreas]

Actually super glue is more than good enough for that use. Super Glue is stronger the less you apply, so something that is properly clamped together after applying the glue will sit in place until death do part. I have several SAKs with superglued-on wooden scales and you could chuck those into a concrete wall and you'd be more likely to split the scales in two than make them fall off. granted it's locktite-branded super glue, might have some say in the matter.

[evil510]

I use stainless steel pop rivets when re-attaching the springs for the tab locks on my Wave and Surge. I fabricated a special punch/peen to give them a nice, clean, finished look. I have used pop rivets for many years. If you want some play between the objects being riveted together, install temporary shim(s) that equal the amount of free space needed, compress the rivet then remove the shim(s). In the case of what you are looking to do, some U shaped shims of .005" would probably do you right. Using shims this way is how I get the correct tension/pressure on knives and tools that are held together with pins/rivets. Be sure and go with stainless steel. Aluminum rivets won't hold up, they are soft and will wear quickly... being hollow makes it worse. Also, if using the aluminum rivets on moving parts, they will eventually work loose. Plain steel rivets while stronger, will rust. Of course stainless steel isn't rustproof but it takes a lot longer for that to happen with reasonable care. Hope this helps.....

~ evil ~

[Mike 56]

I think it would harder to use pop rivets than brass rods. If you put your mind to it you could make pop rivets work. If you do not want to use brass pins why not screws i think they would be easy to use. Just use lock tight and maybe stake the screws.

Mike

You could still buy a pop riveter it is a good tool to have around.

[Andreas]

Yeah I've pretty much gathered that it won't be a good idea for tools, but I'm still buying a set just to have around. Bolts and nuts + loctite was another option I'm consider, and those I can also sand down a bit

[Andreas]

So can you use pop rivets for SAKs? Yes, yes you can
http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,22381.msg413323.html#msg413323

[Sparky415]

  I'm impressed Mate and I always love your woodwork scales 

[Mike 56]

Cool got er done and got to play with your new toy.

Mike