And so it begins.... (My adventures into Alox!)

[Reinier]

I see. Well, I'm sure someone will. I almost did

[TazzieRob]

I said I wouldnt ever bother with home anodizing, but Ive been browsing the caswell site and they do have a starter kit that I wouldnt mind trying.


Thats not for hard anodize, but I can do standard anodize and use colors not available to hard anodize like bright orange and OD green which would be popular I think.  As well as I can do one off scales of different colors and not have to commit 10-12 sets for a color based on cost. 

Ive also been doing some research on hard anodizing and kinda want to figure out the difference and how it's done.  Seems to be sort of secret per shop, but I have some ideas and it would be fun to use my chemistry degree for something. 

OD green anodize with black tools would be very nice I think.  Did Vic ever release an OD green special run?

Hard ano requires higher voltage and cooling devices.

Thats what I figured, but since the amount of current needed depends on the surface area of the part, and sak scales are small compared to some things that get hard ano'd.. how much current would it take to anodize one set at a time?  Thats what im thinking... and I have no idea.   I know you have to bubble air through the sulfuric ( or maybe pure O2, not sure ) but Id like to figure it out.

If you know what the surface area of the piece is, you can work out how much current is required due to the required current density.  If your power supply can deliver constant current, the voltage will rise as the resistance rises with increased oxide thickness.  A smaller piece will require less current and voltage to achieve the required current density.  I don't know what they should be, but there must be some info available out there.  This article popped up in a quick google search

http://www.luster-on.com/AnodizingbyConstantCurrentDensity_001.pdf

[Syph007]

Thanks for the info!  Yes I do remember the 720 rule and I have a power supply that can do constant current.  If I could get a 1mil thick coating on home anodize Id be pretty happy with that actually as stock anodize is thinner than that.

I had another realization as well with home anodize I can do some more fiddling around with masking and preserve the red of the shield I think which would be cool.

So I think I talked myself into ordering the starter kit tomorrow and see what I can figure out. 

OD green would be wonderful.... I like the OD green cerakote but I think id still prefer anodize.

[TazzieRob]

If you have 3D CAD drawings of the parts you should be able to get pretty accurate surface area values.  Good luck with it, I'm interested to see what results you obtain 

[Syph007]

I see. Well, I'm sure someone will. I almost did

And its gone... seems people DO like 91mm alox.  I just ordered another 20 sets to be milled, and if I go ahead and get that anodize setup I can do OD green ones as well as black for the next batch... 

[Syph007]

If you have 3D CAD drawings of the parts you should be able to get pretty accurate surface area values.  Good luck with it, I'm interested to see what results you obtain 

I did some reading on anodize theory, its really facinating.  The alum oxide grows perpendicular from the surface like little hairs from the surface.  The spacing of those 'hairs' its what determines the hardness (not layer thickness as I had thought).  Now.. the higher the current density the smaller the pore size (space between the hairs) and the harder it is to dye which is why hard anodize has less dye options as only some dyes are small enough to fit in the smaller pores!

Similarly if the current density is too low, the 'hairs' are too far apart and the dye wont be trapped, and color will leak back out even if sealed.

So!  This is right up my alley for careful controlled experimentation and taking notes it will be like being back in the lab, but making cool parts too...

And now that I found blue masking lacquer, I can mask off the shields and then dye the scales any color! 

[Glofindel]

If you have 3D CAD drawings of the parts you should be able to get pretty accurate surface area values.  Good luck with it, I'm interested to see what results you obtain 

I did some reading on anodize theory, its really facinating.  The alum oxide grows perpendicular from the surface like little hairs from the surface.  The spacing of those 'hairs' its what determines the hardness (not layer thickness as I had thought).  Now.. the higher the current density the smaller the pore size (space between the hairs) and the harder it is to dye which is why hard anodize has less dye options as only some dyes are small enough to fit in the smaller pores!

Similarly if the current density is too low, the 'hairs' are too far apart and the dye wont be trapped, and color will leak back out even if sealed.

So!  This is right up my alley for careful controlled experimentation and taking notes it will be like being back in the lab, but making cool parts too...

And now that I found blue masking lacquer, I can mask off the shields and then dye the scales any color! 

Sounds awesome. The explanation of growing like hair gives me a goosebumps.

[Syph007]

More 91mm grenade texture alox!   Compact toolset with brass liner.















Cheers!

[sf_duke]

Nice mod Syph....the brass liner looks sharp...

[Reinier]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

[Syph007]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

That would be cool.  I think that would be tricky to do by hand though. 

[neillcurrie]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

That would be cool.  I think that would be tricky to do by hand though. 

I suspect you could make the brass screwed part, and solidly insert the screwdriver blade somehow (maybe a tight press fit would be sufficient, as the torque on the blade is very miniscule). But you'd have more of a problem tuning the fit of the whole screwdriver into the corkscrew.
Brass doesn't have the "give" that plastic offers, the fit would need to be especially precise, and maybe a tight cork or two would ruin the fit again 

[Monrogue]

Looks great Syph!

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[Reinier]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

That would be cool.  I think that would be tricky to do by hand though. 

Oh come on, if anyone can do it...

[Reinier]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

That would be cool.  I think that would be tricky to do by hand though. 

I suspect you could make the brass screwed part, and solidly insert the screwdriver blade somehow (maybe a tight press fit would be sufficient, as the torque on the blade is very miniscule). But you'd have more of a problem tuning the fit of the whole screwdriver into the corkscrew.
Brass doesn't have the "give" that plastic offers, the fit would need to be especially precise, and maybe a tight cork or two would ruin the fit again 

I don't think a tight fit is necessary. A little play would be fine, it can't fall out anyways. I remember seeing a metal one posted here on MTo some time ago.
I'll ask a friend of mine who just upgraded his 3D printer to a very sophisticated model. Maybe he can print one in a cool material/color.

[Syph007]

Beautiful. Now all it needs is a mini screwdriver (in brass instead of plastic)

That would be cool.  I think that would be tricky to do by hand though. 

I suspect you could make the brass screwed part, and solidly insert the screwdriver blade somehow (maybe a tight press fit would be sufficient, as the torque on the blade is very miniscule). But you'd have more of a problem tuning the fit of the whole screwdriver into the corkscrew.
Brass doesn't have the "give" that plastic offers, the fit would need to be especially precise, and maybe a tight cork or two would ruin the fit again 

I don't think a tight fit is necessary. A little play would be fine, it can't fall out anyways. I remember seeing a metal one posted here on MTo some time ago.
I'll ask a friend of mine who just upgraded his 3D printer to a very sophisticated model. Maybe he can print one in a cool material/color.

That would be a good candidate cor printing.

As a challange to do by hand i would start with square bar stock and mark each side and use a jewelers saw to cut but sanding the inside part would take a long time.

[Syph007]

I guess this one would be a yeoman tinker... hmm ya that sounds about right.  Just for conversation sake of the 7 91mm alox/Ti customs only one had the corkscrew so far, but whenever there is a poll people choose the corkscrew about 9 to 1.   

[Reinier]

Unusual choice, two Phillips drivers

I feel so special now, with the only corkscrew-equipped SAK

[enki_ck]

I realized this week that I don't have a single Vic SAK with a backlayered Phillips. And only two Wengers with that feature.

[Syph007]

Unusual choice, two Phillips drivers

I feel so special now, with the only corkscrew-equipped SAK

The custom 111mm Im putting together has 3 phillips!

[Syph007]

I realized this week that I don't have a single Vic SAK with a backlayered Phillips. And only two Wengers with that feature.

Its not that its my preference for use, but I like the feel of the SAK better without the corkscrew.  To be honest I dont use either ever, but since it has to be there, I pick phillips.

[sf_duke]

I guess this one would be a yeoman tinker... hmm ya that sounds about right.

Sweet!!!  Nice work Syph.  Kirk13 on another thread coined this version the "Duke of Yeoman", but I like the "Yeoman Tinker" equally.

I realized this week that I don't have a single Vic SAK with a backlayered Phillips. And only two Wengers with that feature.

Funny you mentioned this.  I have only seen the two Phillips implements (inline and backtool) on Wengers and not on a Vic.  The Wenger Matterhorn is a good example of this.

[Reinier]

Funny you mentioned this.  I have only seen the two Phillips implements (inline and backtool) on Wengers and not on a Vic.  The Wenger Matterhorn is a good example of this.

http://sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Master+Electrician

[sf_duke]

http://sakwiki.com/tiki-index.php?page=Master+Electrician

Thanks for sharing Reinier...

[Syph007]

I was asked how my custom alox scales compared in thickness to normal scales.

Here is my super tinker vs a farmer.



And here is a standard super tinker compared to my alox super tinker.

[sf_duke]

I was asked how my custom alox scales compared in thickness to normal scales.

Here is my super tinker vs a farmer.

And here is a standard super tinker compared to my alox super tinker.

Thanks for posting the pics Syph.  Great to see the comparisons.

[Syph007]

This would be the biggest 91mm alox Ive done so far with the new scales.  A troubleshooter!  This one is going to the man who did the 3D CAD file work... Tofty!

[Monrogue]

That's similar to my MechaRogue . Very nice.  Love that black/red theme.  So you haven't done any with T&T yet?

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[Syph007]

That's similar to my MechaRogue . Very nice.  Love that black/red theme.  So you haven't done any with T&T yet?

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Nope I would have had to make the slots before anodize.  If I end up doing home anodize then I can do that better instead of guessing ahead of time.  So far Ive only done the tweezer on a Ti91.

Oh and now its been 8, 91mm mods and still only 1 corkscrew.... where is the love of the corkscrew eh!

[tattoosteve99]

This is one of the first mods I was planning long ago. I'm so glad you got this working.